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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

IN-DEPTH: How a fatal train crash became the catalyst for the Ball Watch Company’s success Time+Tide
Ball Watch Company’s success Jun 7, 2022

IN-DEPTH: How a fatal train crash became the catalyst for the Ball Watch Company’s success

The domination of the Swiss watch industry feels like an eternal truth, especially given the age of some of the most popular brands which stretch back hundreds of years. They may have always had the upper hand when it came to high-end complications and ornate decoration worthy of royalty, but there was a period of … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: How a fatal train crash became the catalyst for the Ball Watch Company’s success appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Air Command delivers new pilot’s chronographs under 37mm Time+Tide
Blancpain Air Command delivers new Jun 7, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Air Command delivers new pilot’s chronographs under 37mm

Blancpain’s Air Command series is getting two new options for the range in titanium and red gold. They’re smaller than the previous 42mm-plus sized versions we are used to, and are being marketed as more “feminine”. But these watches could be great for anyone seeking vintage-esque dimensions, or who, like me, usually prefer watches on … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Air Command delivers new pilot’s chronographs under 37mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Timex jumps onto the Stranger Things’ 1980s bandwagon with new capsule collection Time+Tide
Timex jumps onto Jun 6, 2022

Timex jumps onto the Stranger Things’ 1980s bandwagon with new capsule collection

Given that nostalgia often feels like the dominant mode of inspiration for modern watchmaking – heritage reissue, anyone? – Timex’s collaboration with Stranger Things makes perfect sense. For anyone who grew up in the 1980s, the Netflix show is a retro bonanza. Set in 1983, the show focuses on a tight-knit group of kids in the … ContinuedThe post Timex jumps onto the Stranger Things’ 1980s bandwagon with new capsule collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar with Blue Dial Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Jun 6, 2022

Review: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar with Blue Dial

In 1992, the Master Control collection was introduced by Jaeger-LeCoultre, and along with it, the famed “1000 Hours Control” certification. This is the brand’s famed internal quality control standard, with a testing period that spans six weeks (or 1000 hours). While the Master Control line was first to be subjected to this rigorous standard, itRead More

MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style Time+Tide
Jun 6, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style

Eschewing the influence of diving or sports, the pure military inspiration behind the new York & Front Burrard is pretty close to being the perfect functional tool watch. It’s a daily wearer with a distinctive style that comes in any colour you want, as long as it’s black or white. Sized at 38mm for textbook … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Collector’s Crossroads – How do you work out whether to stick or twist? Time+Tide
Jun 5, 2022

The Collector’s Crossroads – How do you work out whether to stick or twist?

Let’s set the scene. You walk into the boutique, knowing today is the day. The wallet is about to get a little lighter, and a spot in the watch box will be filled – but you’ve got a great excuse. Whether you’re celebrating your birthday, a promotion or Heimlich Manoeuvre Day (no joke, look it … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads – How do you work out whether to stick or twist? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute Jun 5, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations

It’s easy to throw the phrase “museum quality” around when talking about haute horology timepieces, as a multitude of brands are capable of the high-art techniques required to earn that label. However, no matter how many time-consuming handmade techniques a brand perfects, only a brand like Vacheron Constantin are able to reproduce actual historical artworks … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Black Ceramic Royal Oak 34 mm “Rainbow” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jun 3, 2022

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Black Ceramic Royal Oak 34 mm “Rainbow”

Having devised the granular Frosted Gold finish that’s now found on several Royal Oak models, Italian jewellery designer Carolina Bucci has teamed up once again with Audemars Piguet, but on a collaboration that goes in an entirely different direction. This time it’s all about contemporary materials and aesthetics with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Carolina Bucci Limited Edition 34 mm in black ceramic with an iridescent, laser-engraved sapphire dial and a generous dose of pink gold accents. Initial thoughts Though the Royal Oak has an unmistakable identity, Ms Bucci has proven that the iconic octagonal design can be a canvas for something different. Her latest creation proves that remains true. Although this is merely a new dial, the execution is novel enough to be interesting. The dial isn’t traditional in either technique or materials – the dial is ultra-modern in fact – yet still preserves the classic Royal Oak aesthetic with a chequerboard pattern that evokes its signature tapisserie guilloche. Pairing the iridescent dial with the muted black ceramic case makes the watch even more striking, resulting in an eye-catching aesthetic despite the moderate case of just 34 mm. Still, its modernity in both style and techniques means it could be criticised as a gimmick. But that is too harsh. It’s less timeless than a traditional Royal Oak, but still a timeless design. And it is definitely chic. The hands and applied markers are pink gold, as are the nuts on the bezel R...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A McDreamy / McSteamy trip to Monaco & Hida hotness at The Armoury Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Jun 3, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A McDreamy / McSteamy trip to Monaco & Hida hotness at The Armoury

Mr McUtchen, a.k.a McSteamy, continues to leave me green with envy stateside. His latest escapades abroad include having an oceanside chat with actor Patrick Dempsey on all things TAG Heuer in Monaco for the Grand Prix – which he got to enjoy in a private box as well. It’s good to be the king… As … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A McDreamy / McSteamy trip to Monaco & Hida hotness at The Armoury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Calibre 135 Observatoire SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jun 3, 2022

Zenith Introduces the Calibre 135 Observatoire

Having already designed its own El Primero limited edition, Phillips has collaborated with Zenith and Voutilainen to create the Calibre 135 Observatoire, a limited edition of 10 watches each powered by a cal. 135-O. The movement was the specially-regulated variant of Zenith’s flagship chronometer wristwatch movement of the mid-20th century, conceived solely to participate in observatory chronometer contests. As such, the movements were never cased and sold, until now. Contained in a platinum case, the movements were light decorated by Voutilainen, which also supplied the guilloche dial via its dial making subsidiary Comblemine. Initial thoughts The Calibre 135 Observatoire is a good looking watch. It’s evidently modelled on the vintage model and doesn’t change too much of the original design, but instead injects a few elegant details that give it more refinement, like the guilloche chapter ring. These discreet flourishes are enough to set it apart as a higher end watch than the vintage original, which are more of a functional precision chronometer. More broadly, it’s a three-way collaboration that reflects the strengths of the collaborators to different degrees. For Phillips, the Observatoire is a sensible collaboration since it chimes with its strength in selling both vintage and modern watches at the top end of the price spectrum. And it also a perfect base for the auctioneer to utilise the discerning eye of the gentlemen behind the project, namely Aurel Bacs a...

Swatch celebrate The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee with “How Majestic”, a colour-changing watch Time+Tide
Swatch Jun 2, 2022

Swatch celebrate The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee with “How Majestic”, a colour-changing watch

The British royal family has endured another calamitous year. Prince Andrew cemented his position as a global embarrassment after settling his sex abuse case out of court, Megan and Harry polarised the nation with their self-serving interview on Oprah, and it’s barely a year since Prince Phillip died. As an institution, the monarchy appears increasingly … ContinuedThe post Swatch celebrate The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee with “How Majestic”, a colour-changing watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen Time+Tide
Zenith X Phillips X Kari Jun 2, 2022

Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen

Precision chronometry is the ultimate test of any manufacture’s mettle. To win and set records at Observatory competitions not only results in a highly coveted award for a manufacture, but also a highly coveted timepiece for collectors to acquire. Herein lies what makes the Zenith calibre 135-0 so legendary in the world of horology. From … ContinuedThe post Is this the strangest collaboration of 2022 so far? Zenith X Phillips X Kari Voutilainen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend Time+Tide
Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Jun 2, 2022

INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend

The first rule of half-arsed journalism is that if something happens twice it’s a coincidence and if it happens three times then it’s a trend. On that basis the theme of the past week has been bronze-cased watches with blue dials. Along came the Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Midnight Blue, followed in quick succession with the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The King Seiko KSK Re-Creation Limited Edition SJE087 Time+Tide
Seiko KSK Re-Creation Limited Edition Jun 2, 2022

HANDS-ON: The King Seiko KSK Re-Creation Limited Edition SJE087

The King Seiko era is an often overlooked piece of Seiko’s long and bountiful history, as this brand with so many achievements is never short of watches to be celebrated. But, as last year marked the 60th anniversary of the King Seiko range’s appearance, there’s been a push to honour it in the best way … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The King Seiko KSK Re-Creation Limited Edition SJE087 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 2, 2022

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver

Historically a prominent participant – and winner – at observatory chronometer trials, Longines once had a stable of extra-precise, high-frequency movements, though the calibres have been long discontinued as were the chronometer competitions. Several decades later the watchmaker from Saint Imier pays homage to that history by reviving the Ultra-Chron, which is based on its namesake 1968 original but with a newly-developed high-beat movement contained within vintage-inspired, cushion-shaped case matched with a similarly retro steel bracelet. Initial thoughts The vintage Ultra-Chron is a good basis for a remake as it avoids being yet another vintage-inspired diver with a round case. While the design isn’t new, the cushion case distinguishes it from the competition, offering enthusiasts something less common. Personally, I like the functional, 1970s style of the Ultra-Chron; the red accents lend the watch the feel of an instrument. But going by how Longines has expanded the palette of the Legend Diver, additional, modern colours for the Ultra-Chron are a possibility (and a certainty if it sells well). But the new Ultra-Chron is notable not just for its style. Though the Longines catalogue has an impressive tally of historical remakes, all of its Heritage models to date contain standard movements identical to those found in the brand’s other models. The Ultra-Chron, on the other hand, stands out for the high-beat calibre that was developed specially for it (though t...