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Field Watch

The military-utility tool watch genre. WWI trench → WWII Dirty Dozen → MIL-W-46374 → Hamilton Khaki and Marathon GPM.

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer LVMH Jan 11, 2023

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer

LVMH Watch Week, the year’s first significant watch fair, just kicked off in Singapore. In some ways a warmup for Watches & Wonders in March – the biggest watch fair of the year – the LVMH Watch Week is where the watchmakers owned by the French group show off their wares. Amongst them is TAG Heuer, which has revived one of its less-known racing chronographs from the 1970s but in a thoroughly modern style. The Monza Flyback Chronometer is a flyback chronograph featuring an open-worked dial and a 42 mm carbon composite case. Initial thoughts Perhaps the most aggressively modern chronograph in TAG Heuer’s current line-up, the new Monza liberally reinterprets the 1970s original. While the vintage Monza is not famous as the Carrera or Monaco, it is interesting in several respects, including the fact that it was the first serially-produced Heuer to sport a black-coated case. The carbon case and open-worked, asymmetrical dial show another face of TAG Heuer, but one that still fits with its motorsports-chronograph heritage. Certainly a TAG Heuer that is different, the Monza has clearly been conceived to cater to contemporary tastes, which is a good thing given that TAG Heuer already has an ample offering of faithful vintage remakes. But the new Monza comes with a caveat, a steep price. Coming in at US$13,500, the Monza costs double the Autavia Flyback Chronograph that has the same movement but a no-frills steel case. Even considering the carbon composite case and fanc...

Up Close: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 “Expanding Hands” SJX Watches
Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 Jan 11, 2023

Up Close: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 “Expanding Hands”

Even though Breguet is not a name that instantly comes to mind when it comes to ladies’ watches, the brand makes one of the most distinctive female watches on the market today. Late last year Breguet debuted perhaps its most ladies watch in some time: the Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 that both possess a quirky yet graceful complication inspired by “expanding hands” pocket watches from the 18th century. Immediately recognisable thanks to its distinctive egg-shaped case, the Reine de Naples was inspired by similarly-ovoid bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples and the younger sister of Napoleon. Reine de Naples – literally “Queen of Naples” – remains the brand’s signature watch for ladies, though the line-up has grown to encompass many iterations over the years. Admittedly, the models are numerous enough that few leave a lasting impression, but the “expanding hands” allow the new duo to easily stand out. Initial thoughts I was impressed when I first laid eyes on the new Reine de Naples. Neither is a typical ladies’ timepieces that lazily relies only on a bejewelled case to stand out. Both models have a striking, elegant aesthetic that’s slightly more modern than expected from Breguet but still possessed of enough intricate detail. Though seemingly simple at the glance, the new Reine de Naples has a clever and unusual hour display with “expanding hands”. The simplicity of the time display combined with the n...

The Hamilton Murph is a wrist-bound movie star in its own right Time+Tide
Hamilton Murph Jan 10, 2023

The Hamilton Murph is a wrist-bound movie star in its own right

As both a watch buff and a film buff, I love it when those two worlds collide. When we see a watch on screen, it’s usually a brief glimpse, scarcely enough time to make out the model, but sometimes, said timepiece actually becomes central to the plot. The James Bond ouvre is the prime example … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Murph is a wrist-bound movie star in its own right appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions Time+Tide
Jan 9, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions

As business ventures, microbrands can sometimes seem a little bit soulless. All it takes is one person with some starting capital and a catalogue of parts to put together an attractive watch that offers good value for money, but that formula is becoming harder and harder to replicate for watch enthusiasts whose collections are beginning … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic Time+Tide
Blancpain s Fifty Fathoms It’s Jan 8, 2023

The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic

In a space where so much history has gone before, it’s nigh impossible to create a timepiece that’s totally unique. For example, just about any dive watch you can name shares at least some DNA with the Rolex Submariner or Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms. It’s called classic rock for a reason, and for every Omega Speedmaster, … ContinuedThe post The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Meistersinger Primatic is a single-handed shake-up for your collection Time+Tide
Casio n they release Jan 7, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Meistersinger Primatic is a single-handed shake-up for your collection

Meistersinger may be renowned for their single-handed watches, but there is the extremely rare occasion they release a watch that has two. Of course, it would be silly to assume that means you get a traditional hour and minute hand, as the Meistersinger Primatic instead gives you their emblematic mono-hand as well as a power … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Meistersinger Primatic is a single-handed shake-up for your collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

30 Best Mechanical Watches Under $500 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 6, 2023

30 Best Mechanical Watches Under $500

As new enthusiasts dip their toes in the waters of the watch world, it’s easy for them to become mired in watch-specific terminology that, while second nature to seasoned nerds, can prove challenging for anyone less experienced. Understanding the specific nature of the type of movement powering a watch is an excellent example of an area in which a little bit of research goes a long way in elevating your knowledge base and helping you to make an informed purchasing decision. Terms like quartz, mechanical, automatic, manual, and hand-winding are essential basic knowledge for anyone looking to bring their understanding of watches to the next level or purchase a new piece. In this article, we’ll take a look at some of the most prominent types of mechanical movement types on the market. First, we’ll create a high-level primer on how the most popular types of watch movements operate before digging into a list of some of the best options on the more attainable end of the spectrum for each respective movement type. To begin, let’s tackle the term “mechanical” as it relates to watches. In the modern watch world, the vast majority of watches fall into two major subsets. The first is quartz, which utilizes power from an installed battery to power a small circuit that measures timekeeping by way of an oscillating quartz crystal, shaped like a tiny tuning fork, which vibrates at exactly 32,768 per second, allowing for an impressively high level of accuracy. Quartz calibe...

The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Zenith Jan 6, 2023

The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith

This past year was quite a journey for my collection, with new additions and trades – as I am known for every now and again. While I have been bad about it the last few months, with consecutive new watch addition honeymoon periods, typically I try to avoid wearing the same watch two days in … ContinuedThe post The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update Time+Tide
Omega teases tiny yet massive Jan 6, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update

Davey boy, oh Davey boy. Barstool Sports founder Dave Portnoy has already found himself in hot water with, what he refers to, as “watch geeks”. The launch of his watch brand Brick Watch Company was absolutely ridiculed by watch enthusiasts online, the recurring theme being that his designs were unimaginative, generic, ugly and overpriced. In … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The three watches Buffy wore most in 2022: Seiko, Citizen and Omega Time+Tide
Citizen Jan 4, 2023

The three watches Buffy wore most in 2022: Seiko, Citizen and Omega

While the new year is often a time that enthusiasts admire how their collection has grown, mine drastically shrunk last year. After I sold my favourite watch in January for a variety of reasons, as discussed in this article, I was left re-evaluating my other watches alongside my priorities. As of now, my collection consists … ContinuedThe post The three watches Buffy wore most in 2022: Seiko, Citizen and Omega appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Blancpain Introduces Fifty Fathoms “70th Anniversary Act 1” SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Fifty Fathoms “70th Jan 4, 2023

Blancpain Introduces Fifty Fathoms “70th Anniversary Act 1”

Twenty twenty-three marks the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s landmark dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms. Introduced in 1953, the diver was revived in 2003. Kicking off the commemorative editions is the Fifty Fathoms “70th Anniversary Act 1”, the first instalment in a year’s worth of anniversary models. Like the current model, the “Act 1” is inspired by the vintage model, but sports dimensions patterned after the original from seven decades ago, with a reduced case diameter of just over 42 mm. Initial thoughts  The familiar form of the modern dive watch is due in part to the Fifty Fathoms – whether that or the Rolex Submariner was launched first is an endless debate – so it is unsurprising that Blancpain’s current catalogue includes a vast array of Fifty Fathoms-inspired timepieces. Thankfully, Blancpain has done something to cater to watch enthusiasts with the anniversary model that has a smaller diameter, perhaps in response to criticism that the closest equivalent in the line-up is 45 mm wide (Blancpain does offer dive watches with smaller cases, but they are either limited editions or the Bathyscaphe). Even though the anniversary watch is broadly similar to the standard Fifty Fathoms in terms of design, it has been refined and arguably improved, especially on the dial. Blancpain skipped the easy route of copying the earlier model and scaling it down. Instead the designers commendably captured the spirit of the original with the vintage typography un...

The 15 Best Watches Under $200 for New Collectors Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 3, 2023

The 15 Best Watches Under $200 for New Collectors

Seeking out the best watches under $200 is not, it’s fair to say, a pastime for many serious, seasoned watch collectors, most of whom have access to a fairly large checkbook and are armed with a wealth of knowledge about all the most coveted brands and models out there. But every watch collection starts somewhere and every watch collector starts out as someone who’s new to the timepiece game, often also young and yet to embark on the accumulation of resources that would enable them to play at the higher echelons of timepiece collecting. With that in mind, we gave ourselves a challenging price limit of $200 and sought out 15 watches worth a look - whether you’re a newbie or one of those deep-pocketed watch veterans who can’t resist a bargain. Orient Bambino V4 Blue Dial Price: $200, Reference: FAC08004D0, Case Size: 42 mm, Case Height: 11.8 mm, Lug To Lug: 48.2 mm, Lug Width: 22 mm, Crystal: Domed Mineral, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Automatic Often under the radar of American watch consumers and overshadowed by its much larger Japanese brethren, Citizen and Seiko (which with it shares a corporate connection through Epson), Orient has been making value-oriented watches in Japan since 1950. The Bambino is Orient’s dressy gents’ model, fairly large in diameter at 42 mm with a domed crystal. The dial’s gradation sweeps from a bright blue center to black at the edges. Inside is an in-house movement, the automatic Orient F6724, with a hacking seconds f...