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Field Watch

The military-utility tool watch genre. WWI trench → WWII Dirty Dozen → MIL-W-46374 → Hamilton Khaki and Marathon GPM.

Risky business: Are we ready for more microbrands going upmarket? Time+Tide
Farer recently added Dec 10, 2022

Risky business: Are we ready for more microbrands going upmarket?

One of my favourite watch brands, Farer, recently added a new chronograph to their line-up. Called the Chrono-Classic, it follows a long line of chronographs released from the brand. Yet, this new release is not just another chronograph for Farer. This watch sees them pushing through a glass ceiling as a microbrand and going upmarket. … ContinuedThe post Risky business: Are we ready for more microbrands going upmarket? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Magon Fórsa Titanium Automatic Column Wheel Chronograph By Stephen McGonigle: Incredible Engineering And Unparalleled Quality For The Price – Reprise Quill & Pad
Dec 10, 2022

Magon Fórsa Titanium Automatic Column Wheel Chronograph By Stephen McGonigle: Incredible Engineering And Unparalleled Quality For The Price – Reprise

Stephen McGonigle, owner and co-founder of McGonigle watches, has been regularly asked by friends and watch aficionados over the years to make something that they could afford – or at least aspire to. Making a relatively affordable watch that he could be proud of was a challenge, but one McGonigle has met with the first watch from his new Magon brand: the Fórsa Titanium, an automatic column wheel chronograph in a distinctive tonneau-shaped case.

INTRODUCING: A striking engraved masterclass from the Parmigiani Fleurier La Rosa Celeste Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier La Rosa Celeste Parmigiani Dec 9, 2022

INTRODUCING: A striking engraved masterclass from the Parmigiani Fleurier La Rosa Celeste

Parmigiani Fleurier is experiencing a mammoth resurgence under the watchful eye of Guido Terreni – we had a taste of this with their incredible releases from Watches & Wonders like the Tonda PF Skeleton. Today’s topic, however, honours the brand’s founder and master watchmaker, Michel Parmigiani. A special person deserves a special watch. This prompted … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A striking engraved masterclass from the Parmigiani Fleurier La Rosa Celeste appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Lang & Heyne Introduces the Friedrich II Remontoir “The Lavish Attic” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe have made it Dec 9, 2022

Lang & Heyne Introduces the Friedrich II Remontoir “The Lavish Attic”

Dresden-based Lang & Heyne is a German independent watchmaker that makes just 100 to 150 timepieces per year. Created to mark the ninth year of the partnership with its retailer in Hong Kong, its latest release is the Friedrich II Remontoir “The Lavish Attic Edition”. If the watch sounds familiar, that’s because the prototype of the limited edition was sold at Phillips in May for HK$819,000, or just over US$105,000. Now it returns as a serial-production timepiece in a limited edition of 36 watches – nine pieces each in stainless steel, white gold, rose gold and platinum. Lang & Heyne (L&H;) was founded in 2001 by watchmakers Marco Lang, Mirko Heyne, and Lothar Zieger. All three founders have since left the brand, most recently Mr Lang, who left to set up his eponymous brand. Their departure has allowed the brand to evolve into less traditional watches like the Friedrich II Remontoir for the Lavish Attic, which has a sporty aesthetic and titanium movement bridges. Initial thoughts I was intrigued when I came across the prototype offered at Phillips. A watch with a constant-force escapement is something you don’t often see (even if brands like F.P. Journe have made it a speciality). That, combined with the stark black dial, steel bracelet, and sporty design, made it an unusual proposition. As a serially-produced watch, albeit a limited edition, the Lavish Attic edition retains the key elements that give it a distinctive look, namely the glossy, black enamel dial ...

The Franck Muller Vanguard Skeleton Colour Dreams is a joyful riot of mad-cap fun Time+Tide
Franck Muller Dec 8, 2022

The Franck Muller Vanguard Skeleton Colour Dreams is a joyful riot of mad-cap fun

Ever wondered what happens when you take the colour wheel and throw it at a watch with extreme craftsmanship and precision? Well, we recently found out. Franck Muller and colour share a healthy, two decade-long relationship, marked by the release of the first Colour Dreams model during the turn of the millennium. From the Crazy … ContinuedThe post The Franck Muller Vanguard Skeleton Colour Dreams is a joyful riot of mad-cap fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Go modern vintage with the Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic 3/6/9 Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic 3/6/9 There Dec 7, 2022

Go modern vintage with the Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic 3/6/9

There is a strong allure to the simple time-only watch. Without all the complications to distract us, these watches instead rely heavily on their design. And more than anything, the design of a watch is what stays with us the longest. Just think about it. History is littered with such enthralling references; from the Panerai … ContinuedThe post Go modern vintage with the Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic 3/6/9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Parmigiani Introduces La Rosa Celeste Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Dec 7, 2022

Parmigiani Introduces La Rosa Celeste Minute Repeater

For its 25th anniversary last year, Parmigiani debuted La Rose Carrée, a grande sonnerie pocket watch that was entirely hand engraved and enamelled in blue. While it was a one-off creation, the pocket watch has spawned a collection of five minute repeaters, Les Roses Carrées. Each of the five will be unique and the very first is La Rosa Celeste, a minute repeating wristwatch that takes after the pocket watch in both decoration and detail. Initial thoughts As is typical of Parmigiani’s top-of-the-line compilations, La Rosa Celeste is impressive in both its decoration and complication, but it has an unusual modern feel. Although the case is intricately engraved, the clean dial gives it a contemporary feel, so it doesn’t have the old-fashioned ornateness that such watches often possess. With the lavish engraving and generous enamelling, the case makes a statement on the wrist, even more so with its size. At 42 mm in diameter and over 13 mm high, La Rosa Celeste is a big watch, a little too big to be as elegant as its decoration. But the size is no doubt also meant to give it presence, which it will surely have. La Rosa Celeste is finely crafted and artisanally decorated, which inevitably means it is expensive, or CHF600,000 to be exact. That’s a hefty sum but par for the course for a watch like this. Repeating roses and blue enamel Of all the elements of the watch, the dial is the simplest in terms of style. It’s almost minimalist with small, square hour markers...

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph offers retro vibes with grab-and-go convenience Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph Dec 7, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph offers retro vibes with grab-and-go convenience

Seiko has a long history in chronographs, including their first manually wound model from 1964, and the iconic 6139 – the first automatic chrono to hit the market in 1969. That was also the year of the world’s first quartz watch, the Seiko Astron. Naturally, the brands have therefore had a lot of experience producing … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph offers retro vibes with grab-and-go convenience appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a salmon-dialled beauty Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chr... Dec 4, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a salmon-dialled beauty

While Vacheron Constantin’s contribution to the watch world has mostly been focused on the Overseas and the newly re-introduced 222, the Geneva-based maker has quietly refreshed a highly complicated model. First released in platinum in 2016, and then pink gold a year later, it’s been five years since we saw the last update to the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a salmon-dialled beauty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We launch our 4th limited edition, plus a new season of About Effing Time! Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen x seconde/seconde/ x Time+Tide Dec 2, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We launch our 4th limited edition, plus a new season of About Effing Time!

This week, we’ve had a lot of excitement at our end. We just launched our fourth limited-edition collaboration watch, the Nivada Grenchen x seconde/seconde/ x Time+Tide ChaosMaster Series, while the highly anticipated new season of About Effing Time premieres this weekend. The Nivada Grenchen x seconde/seconde/ x Time+Tide ChaosMaster Series really embodies what we are … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We launch our 4th limited edition, plus a new season of About Effing Time! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Bronze – Black Dial Time+Tide
Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Dec 1, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Bronze – Black Dial

The watch community may be more familiar with their Adventure, Independent, and Wild One collections, but a top-seller for the Norqain brand is their Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm. Today, a new limited-edition installment has just entered the chat, with a handsome bronze panda vibe, that appears to be a worthy successor to one of their … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Bronze – Black Dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar IWC Nov 30, 2022

Hands On: IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar

IWC has a suite of instantly recognisable models synonymous with the brand, namely the Pilot’s Watches and of course, the Portugieser. But one collection does get as much recognition as its peers, despite being almost 40 years old. Named after the famous seaside city in Italy, the Portofino was introduced in 1984 (though the inaugural model didn’t yet have the Portofino name at the time) as an oversized pocket watch-style wristwatch, something of a clarion call to persist with mechanical watchmaking after the Quartz Crisis. Now the brand has revived one of the classics from the line with the Portofino Perpetual Calendar. At 40 mm in diameter, it’s the most compact of IWC’s perpetual calendars and is equipped with an in-house movement from the 82000 family. Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar is a sought-after complication for its utility but also its aesthetics, especially when it includes a moon phase, which adds a touch of romanticism to the design. IWC’s latest take on the complication is straightforward, practical, and priced reasonably enough. In fact, it’s essentially a visually-simplified version of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42, which uses the same movement but inside a larger case. While not revolutionary in technical terms, the Portofino Perpetual Calendar is a solid performer with a concise design. It retains all the features that made the 1990s original appealing but adds a few contemporary touches in both design and the in-house base m...

VIDEO: The new precious and polished Bulgari Octo Finissimo watches in rose and yellow gold Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo watches Nov 29, 2022

VIDEO: The new precious and polished Bulgari Octo Finissimo watches in rose and yellow gold

This year, the sandblasted rose gold Bulgari Octo Finissimo took its final curtain call within the collection, but at Geneva Watch Days in late August its successors arrived. Now we have two precious-metal options, with mixed brushed and polished finishing. The first is a standard-production, rose-gold model ref. 103637, and the second is a limited-edition, yellow-gold … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The new precious and polished Bulgari Octo Finissimo watches in rose and yellow gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Insight: Fine Watchmaking Market Map in 2022 SJX Watches
Nov 29, 2022

Insight: Fine Watchmaking Market Map in 2022

For almost as long as I’ve been interested in watches, I’ve tried to find an objective way to visualise the stratification of the various luxury watch brands. I’m as fascinated by the process of watchmaking as much as the products themselves, and I wanted to find a way to differentiate brands based on the production techniques they employ, yet do so objectively. I believe you can tell a lot about a brand’s values and capabilities by looking at their methods, but it can be difficult to penetrate the smoke and mirrors of luxury watch marketing to see what’s really going on behind the curtain. An objective measure: watchmaker-hours per watch In my review of the Saxonia Thin last year, I used the metric “watches per watchmaker” to illustrate the economics of A. Lange & Söhne. While this is not a perfect metric, it is simple and quantitative, and crucially, it can often be derived from publicly available information. Taking this analysis one step further, I added Swiss, German, and Japanese national statistics for working hours to calculate the maximum possible number of watchmaker-hours per watch for more than 50 luxury watch brands. The start of the map, the Saxonia Thin How to interpret this metric The watchmaker-hours metric is not the number of hours that a watchmaker spends on every watch. Rather, it’s the theoretical maximum number of hours that a brand’s watchmakers could possibly spend with each watch. This workrate can be viewed as a simple proxy fo...

Why do you keep hearing about Kurono watches? Time+Tide
Nov 28, 2022

Why do you keep hearing about Kurono watches?

Editor’s Note: Recently the Kurono Chronograph 1 Mk.2 went up for sale, and has since sold out. More seasoned watch enthusiasts are likely familiar with the cult-followed micro-independent brand, but,  for those new to to the space, some of you may have been wondering what all the hoopla on social media was all about. So, we refer you to Zach’s first story on … ContinuedThe post Why do you keep hearing about Kurono watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.