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Field Watch

The military-utility tool watch genre. WWI trench → WWII Dirty Dozen → MIL-W-46374 → Hamilton Khaki and Marathon GPM.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Vario Versa is two-faced in the best possible way Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre chances are Nov 28, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Vario Versa is two-faced in the best possible way

Let’s not beat around the bush. If you’ve spent any time lusting over releases from Jaeger-LeCoultre, chances are that you’ve fallen in love with a few different versions of the Reverso Duoface. Similarly, if you’ve been following Cartier’s releases, the colourful additions to the Tank Must revival have had watch enthusiasts absolutely smitten from the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Vario Versa is two-faced in the best possible way appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Titoni Seascoper range delivers classic dive watches with a clean-cut, modern look Time+Tide
Nov 27, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Titoni Seascoper range delivers classic dive watches with a clean-cut, modern look

When it comes to dive watches, to say there is a lot of competition is a huge understatement. With over a century of watchmaking experience, Titoni has put forward their latest entries into this heavily contested field with the Seascoper 300 and 600. The watches hone in on a definitive look that can be adapted … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Titoni Seascoper range delivers classic dive watches with a clean-cut, modern look appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5004J-017 “Michael Ovitz” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5004J-017 “Michael Ovitz” Nov 26, 2022

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5004J-017 “Michael Ovitz”

Going on the block at Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction is the Patek Philippe ref. 5004J “Michael Ovitz”. It’s lot 2520 and one of the watches from The Triazza Collection, an impressive accumulation of watches owned by a prominent Hong Kong businessman. The collection is heavy on Patek Philippe. Amongst the other timepieces in the collection is the Patek Philippe tourbillon pocket watch that won first prize at the Geneva Observatory in 1931 (which is also being offered in the same auction) and the Patek Philippe ref. 2499 that once belonged to Eric Clapton (but is not for sale, yet). “MSO” – Michael Steven Ovitz The “MSO” initials on this ref. 5004J instantly reveal it was one of the many, I would two dozen at least, special-order watches that Patek Philippe made for Michael Ovitz starting in 2011. Often described as a “super agent”, Mr Ovitz cofounded Creative Artists Agency (CAA), once the dominant talent agency in Hollywood. After a short-lived spell at Disney, he’s now known for his impressive art collection, some of which is on show in his equally impressive home in California. Though the reason behind Patek Philippe’s accommodation of Mr Ovitz is not publicly known, industry lore has it that the watches were an expression of gratitude by the Sterns after Mr Ovitz assisted them in a significant way. Mr Ovitz has only commented on these watches publicly once, in a 2021 article in Robb Report: “It was the first time Ovitz, who has be...

Cartier opens new Sydney flagship boutique – here are 3 watches to check out Time+Tide
Cartier opens new Sydney flagship Nov 24, 2022

Cartier opens new Sydney flagship boutique – here are 3 watches to check out

Cartier is, at least in my opinion, the hottest watch brand right now. Whether it’s the Cartier Crash London that sold for over US$1M, Tyler, The Creator’s recent flex of his armful of vintage and modern references from the storied brand, or the fact that the general consensus of the watch media at Watches & … ContinuedThe post Cartier opens new Sydney flagship boutique – here are 3 watches to check out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Chronographs at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe made Nov 24, 2022

Highlights: Chronographs at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Having already covered highlights in two categories – independent watchmaking and interesting complications – in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now focus on a crowd favourite when it comes to complications, the chronograph. We look at eight chronographs that stand out in The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV. They range from an esoteric Patek Philippe made for an English football club owned by a Thai duty-free shopping magnate to and a fine specimen of the mythical Omega Speedmaster “MIR-90 90 Days” that spent three months on the Russian space station. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found here. The Patek Philippe ref. 5960/1A-011 made in 2016 to commemorate Leicester City becoming Premier League champions for the first time Lot 813: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph, first-generation “Meter” dial Since its introduction in 1999 as Lange’s first chronograph, the Datograph is of the German brand’s most iconic timepieces. Even independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour famously fawns over the movement – he owns an example in rose gold – that is a masterpiece of impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail. This example is a first-generation model with a 39 mm platinum case and a glossy black dial, arguably the quintessential Datograph. Keen-eyed collectors will notice “METER” on the tachymeter scale, indicating this is one of the earliest examples of the model. The warranty confirms that with a 2001 purchase date. Lange began usin...

Hands-On: Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin China Edition SJX Watches
Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin Nov 23, 2022

Hands-On: Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin China Edition

Descended from Piaget’s ultra-thin dress watches that first emerged six decades ago, the Altiplano is the brand’s quintessential dress watch in the modern day. Minimalist and refined, the Altiplano is pared back, legible, and well-proportioned – not to mention very thin – as expected from a brand that launched its first ultra-thin watch in 1957. The latest addition to the ultra-thin lineup is the 21-piece limited edition that emerged from a collaboration between Piaget and auctioneers Phillips, the Altiplano Origin China Special Limited Edition. It will be available only at Piaget boutiques in China with the exception of the prototype numbered “00/21” that will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale on November 28. Initial thoughts Ordinarily found with a conservative and somewhat plain silver dial, the Altiplano gets a major makeover with a lacquered green dial paired with pink gold hands and indices that liven up its usual monochromatic look. It’s clearly a dress watch yet manages to stand out against all the other dress watches. That said, the dial is almost perfect, but not quite – the date window with a white date disc looks out of place. I would have preferred the dial to do away with the date altogether. The case remains the same as the standard model with a wearable and modern size of 40 mm matched with a thinness of just 6.36 mm that’s further enhanced by the slim lugs. Its height, or lack thereof, is thanks to the cal. 1205P, among the...

Talking with Guillaume Laidet about the Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster ‘No Barracuda’ Revolution
Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster ‘No Barracuda’ Nov 23, 2022

Talking with Guillaume Laidet about the Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster ‘No Barracuda’

On a trip to Paris, Wei met with Guillaume Laidet, the architect of recently revived vintage darling, Nivada Grenchen to talk about our first collaboration – a fully black Depthmaster with unique dial markers that resemble the video game character Pac-Man. The original Depthmaster was incredibly well made and depth-rated to 1,000m and our watch […]

12 "Cheap" Watches That Look More Expensive Than They Are Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 22, 2022

12 "Cheap" Watches That Look More Expensive Than They Are

There are a lot of cheap watches out there, and to be honest, many of them look the part. Making a watch that is inexpensive enough to appeal to a broad audience yet also capable of impressing a discerning watch enthusiast with its build quality, finishing, movement, and design is a challenging task for even the most experienced and resourceful of watch manufacturers. The brands and models we spotlight below, in our humble opinion, successfully tread the line between entry-level value (prices range from under $100 to just shy of $600) and noteworthy quality and aesthetics.  Casio Vintage Gold A168GW-9VT Price: $65, Reference: A168GW-9VT, Case Size: 38.6mm x 36.3mm, Case Height: 9.6mm, Crystal: Resin Glass, Water Resistance: Water-Resistant, Movement: Quartz Digital While its most iconic contribution to the watch world is undoubtedly the mega-popular G-Shock, Japan’s Casio offers different styles of digital timekeeping in its retro-influenced Vintage series, the most “expensive-looking” of which is this gold-toned model with a rectangular resin case, a stainless steel bracelet, and an electro-luminescent backlit display screen. The watch features an array of useful functions including a 1/100-second stopwatch with elapsed times and split times, daily alarms, hourly time signals, an auto-calendar, and timekeeping options in both 12-hour and 24-hour format. Best of all, this combination of high functionality and gilded flair can be had for under $70. Scurfa Diver O...

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nov 22, 2022

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Having covered highlights from the independent watchmakers at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on November 28 and 29 – an appropriate theme given that the three most valuable lots according to the estimates are complicated watches from Patek Philippe. In this roundup, we look at nine lots that stand out. Some like the ref. 5207P with the uncommon mahogany guilloche dial are six-figure, headline lots, while others are value propositions that might slip under the radar but worth noting, like the Cartier Privé Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue for sale can be accessed here. The ref. 5207P with a brown guilloche dial and matching obsidian inlays in the case and slide Lot 817: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone “Buenos Aires” Here, we have the Lange 1 Time Zone that was first introduced in 2005. With the trademark Lange 1 dial layout and oversized date, the Time Zone maintains the recognisable Lange 1 style with its “Golden Proportions” despite being able to do much more than a standard Lange 1. This particular variant came about when Buenos Aires retailer Simonetta Orsini requested a limited edition for Argentina. The cities disc thus has Buenos Aires (“B. AIRES”) to indicate UTC-03:00, instead of Rio de Janeiro as is the norm for the model. But more significant for the Lange enthusiast is the silver dial with blue hands and ma...

Platinum status: The psychological reason why we think heavy watches are more valuable Time+Tide
Nov 19, 2022

Platinum status: The psychological reason why we think heavy watches are more valuable

Platinum is the acceptable form of heavy metal. The reason for this isn’t just down to the lack of spandex trousers and apocalyptic imagery. It’s simply hard not to be seduced by a platinum watch. Here is the ultimate stealth-wealth material that visually offers the discretion of stainless-steel. And yet pick up a watch like … ContinuedThe post Platinum status: The psychological reason why we think heavy watches are more valuable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters Time+Tide
Patek Philippe s dearer than your Nov 18, 2022

Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters

It’ll be no surprise to you to hear that another rapper has been on record showing off their watch collection. Tyler, The Creator, however, is no ordinary rapper. His collection doesn’t include iced-out Rolexes and Patek Philippes dearer than your first-born, no. The Californian’s tastes lie in a brand that’s seen an incredible resurgence in … ContinuedThe post Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1463 “Tasti Tondi” Nov 18, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Auction

With the curtain having just come down on the Geneva sale season, auction houses are migrating to Hong Kong for the second half of the autumn auctions. Going on the block at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV are 270 lots that encompass heavy-hitters and “hype” watches, but as usual we’ll take a look instead at a few interesting watches, starting with a selection of independent watchmaking. We round up nine notable creations from the independents, mainly time-only watches with high-quality construction and unique design, such as a Voutilainen Vingt-8 with a skeletonised dial and the Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down. The auction takes place on November 28 (lots 801-938) and November 29 (lots 939-1070). The full catalogue and sale registration can be accessed on Phillips.com. Lot 829: Roger Dubuis Hommage H37 A modern-day chronometer heavily inspired by traditional watchmaker – the aesthetics are a practically a revival of styling from the good old days – the Hommage H37 is an easy watch to like. Living up to its name, the Hommage pays tribute to classical gentlemen’s watches. It’s a three-hander in a classically-sized 37 mm case that contains a Lemania-based self-winding movement certified as a chronometer by the Besançon Observatory. The Hommage case was modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi” chrongraph, though the resemblance is less obvious on the time-only model. But the simple lines are undeniably appealing despite their sim...

£80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow Time+Tide
Omega spends 20 years Nov 16, 2022

£80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow

As watch collectors we all wish to one day stumble on a “barnyard” find. An old watch that’s dug up and sold at an estate sale by an owner who has no idea what it is actually worth. We hear the stories, and they always seem too good to be true. But they definitely happen and, … ContinuedThe post £80k Omega spends 20 years in a drawer until this recent episode of Antiques Roadshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sarpaneva Introduces the Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Nov 16, 2022

Sarpaneva Introduces the Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi”

Inspired by the northern lights, the Sarpaneva x Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” continues the Finnish’s brands tradition of artfully applied Super-Luminova. This 17-piece limited edition Stepan Sarpaneva’s third model dedicated to Valteri Bottas, a fellow Finn who competes for the Alfa Romeo Formula 1 team. Unlike the first pair of Bottas editions that made by Mr Sarpaneva’s more affordable S.U.F. brand, the Kilpisjärvi is a full-fledged Sarpaneva watch so it has an elaborately open-worked dial, unusually shaped case, and in a first for the brand, the Chronode P1003 automatic movement inside. Initial thoughts Born into a family of designers and artists, Stepan Sarpenava unsurprisingly has a strikingly distinct aesthetic. This comes through in all of his work, despite the diversity of his offerings. With its open-worked dial and multi-coloured lume, the Kilpisjärvi might seem similar to his recent releases, but it is notably different. In contrast to the earlier editions that were heavily figurative, the Kilpisjärvi is abstract, especially during the day. In fact, the dial pattern is almost graceful, though the aggressive Sarpaneva styling is still obvious in the hands and case. Only at night when the Super-Luminova glows is the northern lights motif easily apparent. For anyone who enjoys Mr Sarpaneva’s unusual aesthetic, the Kilpisjärvi is easily appealing – with two caveats. One is the size, which at 46 mm is large and places it amongst the biggest Sarp...