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Hands On: IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 Launched Jul 17, 2022

Hands On: IWC Portugieser Automatic 40

Launched in 2020 as a more wearable version of IWC’s signature large-format dress watch, the Portugieser Automatic 40 is a no-frills three-hander executed in a solid, workmanlike manner that is typical of the brand. Though novel for the current Portugieser line – it’s the smallest model in the lineup – the new automatic isn’t a wholly new idea. IWC did offer a “small” Portugieser some two decades ago, but Portugieser watches since then have been well over 40 mm in diameter. The large size of the various Portugieser models result from the movements, which either have a seven-day power reserve or chronograph, plus a few others that are even more complicated. That left a gap for a “small”, uncomplicated Portugieser. And so it has returned, combining the typical restrained aesthetics of the Portugieser line and the technical quality expected of IWC. Initial thoughts The Portugieser Automatic 40 is a wearable watch with a distinctive but classical aesthetic. Unlike its larger and more complicated counterparts in the Portugieser line, the 40 mm automatic is simple but still has the same recognisable aesthetic as well as a solidly engineered movement. It’s moderately sized, though a little thick due to the movement inside. The movement is a good one, which makes the case height acceptable, though a slimmer case would certainly be more appealing and also echo the vintage original more closely. The cal. 82200 Importantly, it is also eminently affordable. Con...

Something for everyone – the Mühle-Glashütte watches you should consider Time+Tide
Mühle Glashütte Jul 16, 2022

Something for everyone – the Mühle-Glashütte watches you should consider

What do you get when you put years of precise instrument manufacturing expertise into watchmaking? Well, Mühle-Glashütte is what you get. Though they produced their first watch as late as 1996, they pride themselves on their precision manufacturing heritage, as producers of measuring tools and speedometers. Founded by Robert Mühle during his employment for fine … ContinuedThe post Something for everyone – the Mühle-Glashütte watches you should consider appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen Introduces the Promaster Diver 200m “Green Anaconda” SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Jul 15, 2022

Citizen Introduces the Promaster Diver 200m “Green Anaconda”

Introduced just last year, the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m is an distinctive and compelling “tool” watch with an over-the-top style and impressive specs that include a hardened titanium case and magnetism-resistant movement. Now the watch returns in even more striking livery in a limited edition that will be available only in Asia. Dressed in green and gold, the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m Asia Limited Edition “Green Anaconda” has a hobnailed dial and bezel, while the case, bracelet, and bezel are all black coated. Initial thoughts The original model was easy to like, especially if you like chunky dive watches. Its technical features are amongst the best in at its price segment, while the slightly exaggerated styling also helps it stand out in the crowded segment of affordable dive watches. What the first version lacked, however, was flair. Thought the watch was big and hard to miss, it was dressed almost entirely in shades of grey, which felt too restrained for the size and design. The “Green Anaconda” certainly took that lesson to heart with its striking colours that leave the hobnail patterning seem even more obvious than before. The colours and textures are brought out even more by the contrast with the black-coated case and bracelet. They are finished in diamond-like carbon (DLC), resulting in a charcoal finish that’s slightly glossy. The dark finish also makes the watch look smaller than it is, which is useful given its 46 mm diameter. With...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Blancpain finds its way into the Jack Reacher universe Time+Tide
Blancpain finds Jul 15, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Blancpain finds its way into the Jack Reacher universe

Earlier this week I swung by the 5th avenue Blancpain boutique for an evening with NYC Watch Crew and bestselling author Dan Ames. You may be wondering: why was an author a special guest at a watch meetup? In Ames’ latest expansion of the Jack Reacher universe, a beloved series of books by Lee Child … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Blancpain finds its way into the Jack Reacher universe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The power duo is back! Meet the Bamford x G-SHOCK DW6900BWD “three blues”… Time+Tide
Jul 15, 2022

HANDS-ON: The power duo is back! Meet the Bamford x G-SHOCK DW6900BWD “three blues”…

With Bamford, we’ve grown accustomed to aqua and black getting to know each other, and the new Bamford x G-SHOCK DW6900 is no different. This is the second time the two brands have worked together, the first being a retrolicious take on another classic, the DW5600. You might also know this watch for being one … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The power duo is back! Meet the Bamford x G-SHOCK DW6900BWD “three blues”… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante in Platinum SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 14, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante in Platinum

Launched as part of the “Homage to F.A. Lange” 175th anniversary collection in HoneyGold two years ago, the 1815 Rattrapante was the only one of the trio that was all-new model. In fact, it was the German watchmaker’s first pure-play split-seconds chronograph, and surprisingly svelte by its standards. Though the anniversary edition sold out swiftly, the watch is making a comeback with a platinum case and silver dial. A pleasing and familiar combination most often seen on its simpler models, the silver-and-blue livery is uncommon for Lange chronographs, which tend to have dark-coloured dials, making the new split-seconds unusual. The anniversary 1815 Rattrapante Initial thoughts Essentially variation of the original with different case and dial, the new 1815 Rattrapante is still noteworthy because the original in HoneyGold was limited to only 100 pieces but deserved a broader audience because it was appealing on several levels. The watch is thin and understated, unlike most Lange complications, but nevertheless boasts a movement with the visual depth and impeccable decoration typical of the brand. While the new model has the standard movement decoration instead of a frosted finish, the most obvious difference between the two is on the front. The platinum version has an understated, tone-on-tone look that I prefer over the high-contrast look of the anniversary model. While the all-silver look may seem too simple at a glance, it’s been given a bit of life with red...

Business News: Watches & Wonders Returns to Geneva in March 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Jul 12, 2022

Business News: Watches & Wonders Returns to Geneva in March 2023

Having successfully pulled off the first large-scale watch fair in Switzerland since the pandemic started – and the first expanded event that included Baselworld transplants like Rolex and Patek Philippe – the organisers of Watches & Wonder will be doing it again next year. Watches & Wonders 2023 will take place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023 – though those are “provisional dates” according to the organisers. But before that the event will take place in two cities in China. First on the tropical resort island of Hainan from October to December 2022 where it will happen simultaneously in Haikou and Sanya. The CDF Mall in Sanya Last year’s W&W; at the West Bund Art Centre in Shanghai Each of these respective events will be taking place in a shopping mall operated by one of the country’s two primary duty-free retailers, China Tourism Group (CTG) in Haikou and China Duty Free Group (CDF) in Sanya. And then from November 23 to 27, W&W; will move to the West Bund Art Center in Shanghai, where it took place in previous years. Intriguingly, the announcement the 2023 event in Geneva begins with “Watches and Wonders announces… its first provisional dates for 2023”. And it omits the list of exhibiting brands. That is perhaps a hint that next year’s event will not have the same exhibitors as this year, reflecting widely discussed tensions between the various exhibiting brands and groups.  

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only is ceramic luxury, simplified Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Jul 11, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only is ceramic luxury, simplified

Hublot has always been known for pushing the envelope of material use in their latest releases. Contrary to that regular scheduling, LVMH Watch Week 2022 saw the release of the Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only. While certainly a more simplified take on a classic Hublot recipe, the Integrated Time Only (a change from the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only is ceramic luxury, simplified appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula Supersport delivers a reimagined Super Compressor diver at a great price Time+Tide
Jul 11, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula Supersport delivers a reimagined Super Compressor diver at a great price

There are plenty of watch brands that have been resurrected from the past. But Circula set themselves apart with their authentic German heritage and the benefit of original family ownership. Focusing mostly on high-quality mechanical watches at an attainable price, their latest release is a neat blend of modern functionality and vintage quirkiness in the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula Supersport delivers a reimagined Super Compressor diver at a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Here are the most beautiful quartz movements with open casebacks, with some hidden honourable mentions Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGP017 Jul 10, 2022

Here are the most beautiful quartz movements with open casebacks, with some hidden honourable mentions

Following last week’s review of the Grand Seiko SBGP017, and your comments on Instagram regarding the exhibition of quartz movements, we were inspired to find other quartz watches with equally beautiful movements that also chose to put them on display. It’s always been a rare sight to see a quartz watch with a display caseback, … ContinuedThe post Here are the most beautiful quartz movements with open casebacks, with some hidden honourable mentions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition (Live Pics) Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Jul 8, 2022

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition (Live Pics)

I didn’t quite believe it when people started claiming that purple was the new colour craze of 2022, but that fact is now undeniable. The TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition is a real sign of change, given that such an iconic watch doesn’t often get updated to follow each and every trend. Striking … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition (Live Pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Introduces the Ranger Ref. 79950 SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Jul 8, 2022

Tudor Introduces the Ranger Ref. 79950

Conceived as a watch for explorers, the Ranger arrived in its current form with an Arabic-numeral dial in the 1960s, although the name dates to 1929. Although the model was revived in 2014, it never really caught on. Now that looks set to change with the brand-new Ranger that’s a subtly but substantial upgrade over its predecessor. Now housed in a better-proportioned case that now contains an in-house movement, the new Ranger becomes Tudor’s most affordable watch with a proprietary movement, thanks to its retail price that starts well under US$3,000. Initial thoughts For watchmaker that excels in affordable, reliable watches, the Ranger makes a lot of sense as it condenses Tudor’s key strengths in a compact, affordable package. The latest version of the model is equipped with the brand’s state-of-the-art features, including an in-house movement and the “T-fit” micro-adjustment clasp, but is priced at just US$2,725 on strap. In fact, the Ranger almost seems like Tudor intentionally making a point that it delivers arguably the best quality-to-price ratio in Swiss watchmaking. It is difficult, maybe impossible, to find another watch with the same tangible qualities for the same price. Aside from its technical features, the new Ranger is an intrinsically appealing watch, largely because it has better proportions and details than earlier version. Now 39 mm wide instead of 41 mm, the case is more appropriately given the design and historical inspiration. The diame...

If the Hanhart 417 ES 1954 doesn’t help you feel like Steve McQueen, nothing will Time+Tide
Rolex reference he never actually Jul 8, 2022

If the Hanhart 417 ES 1954 doesn’t help you feel like Steve McQueen, nothing will

It’s no secret that the secret of the King of Cool is out. While the man lent his name to a Rolex reference he never actually wore or owned, his history with Hanhart has become more and more of a well-known story. The watch, a Hanhart 417 ES, remained elusive due to its approximately 500-piece … ContinuedThe post If the Hanhart 417 ES 1954 doesn’t help you feel like Steve McQueen, nothing will appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Jul 7, 2022

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium

A French watchmaking startup founded in 2017 that successfully reimagined several well-known vintage designs, Baltic has just unveiled highest-spec dive watch to date – and arguably its most contemporary design. While still clearly vintage-inspired in terms of aesthetics, the Aquascaphe Titanium does better than its predecessor in terms of materials, construction, as well as water resistance. The result is a more substantial watch that’s pricier but still value minded. The bezel insert is brushed ceramic with luminous markings Initial thoughts For a brand that’s heavily reliant on vintage watches for insrpaiton, the Aquascaphe Titanium is a welcome departure from its other offerings. Granted it still retains a retro feel, but does so with materials that are decidedly modern, namely ceramic and titanium. On the subject of materials, one aspect that distinguishes the new Aquascaphe is the highly-domed sapphire crystal that calls to mind PlexiGlas found on vintage watches. Rarely found in modern dive watches at this price, most of which utilise flat crystals, the domed crystal results in slight visual distortion of the dial’s edges, which might not help legibility but certainly adds to the vintage feel. Another key detail that contributes to the appealing vintage styling is the all-brushed finish on both the case and bezel, along with the tasteful typography, which speak to the brand’s attention to detail. At the same time, the design that combines smart details w...

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Extreme E “Island X Prix” Edition Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Extreme E “Island Jul 6, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Extreme E “Island X Prix” Edition

Across the Time+Tide team, I am probably the least tuned into the racing world. Fun fact: I do not even have a driver’s license. Shameful, I know, but as someone born and raised in NYC, it is more common than you might think. Nonetheless, I can still appreciate the racing watch category. We often see … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Extreme E “Island X Prix” Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The link between crypto and collectible watches is becoming clearer Time+Tide
Jul 6, 2022

The link between crypto and collectible watches is becoming clearer

For years, in the circles I’m a part of, watch collectors have been asking a simple question. As watch prices continue to skyrocket, who in the bloody hell is buying pieces at these premiums? Premiums that are two, three, sometimes four times the original retail price. We all agree that there are ridiculously wealthy people … ContinuedThe post The link between crypto and collectible watches is becoming clearer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.