Deployant
Six unsung watchmaking heroes from the independent world
There are many celebrated heroes from the world of independent watchmaking. But how many of these unsung heroes do you know?
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Deployant
There are many celebrated heroes from the world of independent watchmaking. But how many of these unsung heroes do you know?
Monochrome
A couple of weeks ago we did a rundown of what we felt are some of the best dress watches for the festive season. A time when we get together with our loved ones to celebrate, enjoy, and take a little break from our daily concerns. While a dress watch certainly seems like a fitting […]
Fratello
Let me give you a little look behind the scenes at Fratello. Usually, we have watches in the office for a relatively short time. That can be from a few days to a couple of weeks. But rarely do we have the chance to try out a watch for a longer period. I had that […] Visit Hands-On With The Brilliant Nodus Contrail GMT Terra to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Find out what Andrew and Russell made of this dressy sports watch.The post Two weeks on the wrist with the Louis Vuitton Tambour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for your weekly dose of early-morning caffeine! Pour yourself a hot cup of coffee, grab a seat, and let’s get going. This week, Jorg and Mike return to the battlefield with another interesting duo of contenders. We read your comments, dear Fratelli! Today’s matchup is a much-requested battle that […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Vs. Rolex Explorer II Ref. 226570 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
A host of new releases as we wind down for the year at every price point with a few interesting stone dials making an appearance. The post New releases from Bulova, Louis Vuitton, Urwerk and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Today, I have another funky design from the Behrens team. I’ve reviewed several of the brand’s watches over the last few years. The Chinese brand always finds a way to impress me with interesting takes on time-telling while offering its watches at very reasonable prices. The Behrens Apolar Producer Michael Limited Edition watch is an […] Visit Hands-On With The Behrens Apolar Producer Michael Limited Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
As one of the oldest brands in the business, UK-born AC Cars can look back at quite an incredible history. A history that spans two continents really, as the foundation of one of the most prolific sports cars, the Shelby Cobra, was very much laid in London, England. Through several financial troubles, however, the company […]
Worn & Wound
Over time, I’ve come to realize that my favorite emotion to experience in this hobby is surprise. That could be because I work in the watch industry and am therefore exposed to so many watches that are the opposite of surprising. Predictability, in any job, leads to a certain amount of drudgery. But those moments of surprise, seeing or reading about a watch that you didn’t expect or couldn’t have conceived of, more than make up for it. By the same token, I understand that for some in our community, surprise or any rocking of the boat is less desirable. If you view watches from a strictly classicist perspective, you might roll your eyes at purely adventurous designs in the same way I do at watches that seem to just be repeating what has come before. Part of me, I have to admit, envies the watch enthusiasts who can see a vintage inspired, black dialed dive watch and be ready to throw the rest of it away. There’s an idea that I keep turning around in my head, that watches were never really intended to be “collected,” that one good one is all anyone really needs, so there’s something correct about seeing a watch like a Tudor Black Bay (a watch I own and love, and even won a Thunderdome with) and feeling like you’ve just a met a watch that will be with you forever. At this point, that’s just not me, and I find myself seeking out watches that feel obscure, strange, or neglected somehow. I want to discover new, under the radar, and risky designs made by crea...
Worn & Wound
Following an initial partnership in 2023 that produced a limited edition (and sold out) version of the Jet Star, Bulova and Complecto have teamed up once again for a trio of limited edition variants of the Super Seville, all with stone dials. The Bulova and Complecto partnership is a natural one: both are quintessentially New York, and this release is meant to pay tribute to the city that both call home. It’s also a showcase for the Super Seville, a watch we’re pretty big fans of at Worn & Wound for the way it combines a very specific 1970s aesthetic with some amazing Bulova tech, as well as a run at the stone dial trend, one that we continue to find fascinating in the way it’s been embraced by enthusiasts in watches at lower price points. According to Bulova and Complecto, the watches in this limited edition collection are meant to be a reflection of their shared values, including inclusivity, self-expression, and resilience. Anyone who has been to a Complecto event or had a conversation with founder Jason Gong understands how important inclusivity is to his brand – it’s truly the mission of the company. Complecto was founded to spread a love of watches and the culture around them to groups who have been traditionally ignored by big watch brands and to bring greater diversity to the community. Community building and a welcoming environment are essential to Complecto, so partnering with Bulova on watches with stone dials, traditionally a flourish reserved for t...
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Fratello
Roughly six months ago, I penned my first article on a Venezianico watch. It was impressive considering I hadn’t heard of the brand. Since then, I’ve covered several of the company’s watches from a distance. I finally met the team and saw the watches in person at the WatchPro Salon 2024. Among the pieces we […] Visit Hands-On With The New Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack And Blue to read the full article.
We were one of the the Media Partners to, and attended the Salon Deluxe Vietnam event from December 6 to 8, and bring you this video report.
Quill & Pad
The Patek Philippe 5101 ten-day tourbillon isn’t perfect: it’s not notably shock tolerant, there’s no lume, and one could fault its 25-meter water resistance. But most important of all for Tim Mosso is that he can’t afford it! However, since its supernova 2003 debut, the 5101 has established a towering reputation that is, if anything, insufficient to convey the eye-watering beauty and milestone status of this sinuously shaped machine.
Time+Tide
Rado's signing of Green reflects how the Swiss watch industry is finally taking cricket seriously... And that they've got a soft spot for Aussies.The post A dinner with Rado and their new ambassador, top Australian cricketer Cameron Green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Launched about 15 years ago but for a long time reserved exclusively for the Japanese market, the Citizen Series 8 made its entrance to the world back in 2021 with the 870, 830 and 831 models. A range of modern, daily oriented sports watches with a trendy angular style, the collection has grown with seriously […]
SJX Watches
The Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary is the most complicated serial-production watch in the Voutilainen catalogue. Modelled on Kari Voutilainen’s first-ever watch, a pocket watch made in 1994, the anniversary tourbillon is a wristwatch that is typical Voutilainen in style and substance. The design is classical while the quality of execution is exceptionally high. Initial thoughts The anniversary tourbillon is predictable in a good way – it looks, feels, and functions as you would expect from a Voutilainen. Even at arm’s length the quality of the watch is apparent. The guilloche on the dial is refined and tidy, while the movement decoration is impeccable. Zoom in and the movement decoration gets even better, which is unsurprising since Voutilainen likely offers the best movement decoration that’s done in an artisanal manner yet at scale (the brand makes perhaps 100 watches a year). The overall quality of the watch is outstanding, and the movement especially so. The details of the bridges are perfectly executed, while the steel parts are elegantly shaped and flawlessly polished. As impressive as the decoration itself is the fact that Voutilainen can do this consistently across all its watches for a reasonable-ish price – a testament to the company that Mr Voutilainen has built. As a wristwatch, however, the movement lacks the scale of the pocket watch. As such, the wristwatch movement feels a little constricted compared to the pocket watch.Everything is clos...
Worn & Wound
This year marks the 100th anniversary of Citizen’s very first watch. Over the past several years, Citizen has expanded its reach into the enthusiast watch market with a series of releases that deliver exceptional value in materials, technology, and aesthetics-while retaining broad mass-market appeal. A forward-thinking approach to innovation has always been a cornerstone of Citizen’s identity, making their watches ideal gifts for tech enthusiasts. You know the type-those who always have the latest and greatest gadgets. With groundbreaking advancements like Eco-Drive light-powered functionality, custom materials like Super Titanium, and superior accuracy through Satellite Wave GPS and Atomic Timekeeping, Citizen offers something truly special for the gadget lover in your life. The post Holiday Gift Guide: Watches for the Tech Enthusiast in Your Life Featuring Citizen appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Wild designs and glowing LEDs mark a return of extravagant '70s wristwear.
Monochrome
Bovet’s watchmaking universe is characterised by incredibly complex timepieces staged with dramatic flair and decorated to unparalleled standards. Founded in 1822, Pascal Raffy breathed new life into Bovet to create a highly niche connoisseur brand. While classical complications and centuries-old decorative techniques abound, Bovet is no stranger to the potential of sapphire crystals and luminescence […]
Worn & Wound
Late last month, Doxa – the reigning cushion case champ and many divers’ brand of choice – released a dazzling new line of Sub 200T references. Media coverage has been sparse. This isn’t really surprising, as the new drop is… a lot to take in. Even though many journalists in the industry appear to be reserving their judgment thus far of the new Doxa Diamonds, social media users are happy to fill in the vacuum with their no-holds-barred opinions. There seem to be a few discussions happening on various watch forums, but the real heartbeat of public opinion can be found amongst the Instagram comments on Doxa’s official brand posts. In case anyone is removed from the world of the socials, allow me to pick a few gems for your reading pleasure: “This is an abomination.” “April fool’s territory.” And, my personal favorite, “Cousteau and Cussler are rolling in their graves.” These are found, of course, in between a punctuating handful of green seasick emojis that really work to tie together the whole sentiment. In sum, Doxa fans think this new series is a swing and a miss for the brand. The drop is clearly reaching for a different market segment than Doxa’s typical consumer base. Though the move into jewels may bring more female buyers into the fold, it’s important to mention that some of the models wearing the Diamonds watches in Doxa’s marketing materials are men. This indicates the new line is meant for all and shouldn’t be relegated to the d...
Monochrome
Following a drastic change of strategy in recent years, Louis Vuitton‘s watchmaking division is being primed to become a serious player. As part of the new strategy, Arnault has taken the flagship Tambour watch, launched in 2002, and revisited it as a luxury sports watch, while the Louis Vuitton Escale was reintroduced as a time-only […]
Monochrome
It has become a pretty recurring thing for Omega to release new models, or at least new editions of existing watches, with very little or no fanfare. While this has happened in the Planet Ocean and Speedmaster collections, it’s mostly the Aqua Terra family that sees these discreet releases dropping regularly. Following the addition of […]
Quill & Pad
This is the story of GaryG's pursuit, and eventual capture, of a classic vintage watch: a Type 20 “big eye” flyback chronograph manufactured by Mathey-Tissot.
SJX Watches
The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is Panerai’s fourth LAB-ID “concept” watch, but probably the most interesting watch in its current catalogue from a technical standpoint. It’s a big, complex watch – inside the 49 mm ceramised titanium case is a movement with six mainsprings. More accurately, it has a conventional movement with twin barrels, plus an illumination module with four of its own mainsprings that generate enough to light up the dial, hands, and bezel for a lengthy 30 minutes. Initial thoughts For the most part I prefer traditionally-styled Panerai watches, either the vintage remakes or the 1990s-type 44 mm models (though I admit the brand’s recent calendar complications are done well). The Submersible Elux hardly resembles a vintage Panerai, but is one of the rare modern creations that is appealing, both in terms of concept and execution, but not so much price-wise. The Submersible Elux is both ridiculous and cool. It’s enormous at 49 mm and also costs just under US$100,000. But it’s arguably the greatest evolution of the historical Panerai speciality of glow-in-the-dark dive watches. And the price is explained in part by the small scale of production in Switzerland. Granted, at this price the PAM01800 isn’t a practical diving instrument, but the technology inside is interesting and notably sophisticated compared to past attempts at light-up watches, all of which suffered from impractically short illumination or power reserve. In time, the te...
Worn & Wound
There are niche watches, and then there are niche watches. A dive watch on its own, if you think about, is a very specific kind of thing, and in spite of their incredible popularity, we shouldn’t forget that they’re built for a highly specific purpose that almost nobody wearing one will ever participate in. A vintage inspired dive watch with an alarm that can be heard underwater is even more specific, and a dive watch with an alarm that can be heard underwater and has been designed to imagine what an example of this watch might have looked like if it existed ten years before the actual watch it’s inspired by – well, that’s about as far down the rabbit hole as most will care to go. But that’s what Massena LAB and Vulcain have cooked up for their new collaboration, and it’s one of the strangest and most charming watches of the year. The Vulcain Nautical Legacy Massena LAB can perhaps be most easily understood as a new spin on the Vulcain Nautical Cricket, which was revived last year. The watch we covered last summer was Vulcain’s attempt at bringing back a truly strange diver that takes a genuinely different approach to the very idea of “timing” a dive. The Nautical effectively brings the no-decompression table to the dial itself, and through the setting of the alarm and matching it with the dive’s depth, the diver can calculate the length of their decompression stops as they make their way to the surface. Again, truly niche, and an early example of t...
Monochrome
For its latest collaboration watch, NYC-based design studio Massena LAB is teaming up with venerable, alarm-specialist watchmaker Vulcain, bringing its own take on an emblematic model, the Cricket Nautical. This watch, which relied on the brand’s signature chiming complication, was one of the first of its kind, merging diving credentials with the alarm feature that […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Germany’s Nomos Glashütte has built its avid following on an adherence to minimalist, Bauhaus-style simplicity in its watch designs, and it has the Red Dot awards to prove it. In all of its similar but subtly distinct product families — particularly the Tangente, the brand’s acknowledged flagship — Nomos has approached complications with great care, mostly focusing on the understated and utilitarian. Sometimes, however, even the most restrained watchmaker wants to have some fun, to make a watch with an added function that isn’t really necessary or even practical but adds an indisputable cool factor. Such is the case with the Tangente 2Date, unveiled earlier this year, which, as its cheeky name implies, is the first Nomos watch that displays the date in two different ways. And even though that sounds like an idea from the Department of Redundancy Department, don’t knock it until you’re tried it — as I had the opportunity to do recently, with Nomos sending me a review model of the Tangente 2Date with a sunray-brushed blue dial. Case: Like all Nomos watches, particularly those in the flagship Tangente collection, the 2Date is recognizably Bauhaus in its aesthetic. The 37.5mm case is practically bezel-free, with just the narrowest hint of one framing the wide dial opening. At just 6.75mm high (6.65 on the version without a sapphire caseback), the case weighs lightly on the wrist and slips easily under a shirt cuff. The lugs are thin and angular, from the front...
Czapek CEO takes us on a tour of two suppliers: enamel dials at Donzé Cadrans and titanium case/bracelets at Ab Products & Ab Concepts.
SJX Watches
Urwerk is best known for its all-black, sci-fi watches, so the UR-230 Polaris departs from the norm. Cased in white ceramic composite, the UR-230 Polaris incorporates several advancement in terms of materials: the white case is milled from a proprietary fibreglass-reinforced ceramic that is more resistant to impact than conventional ceramic. Notably, the material was developed in-house according to Urwerk. Initial thoughts Although Urwerk has introduced many iterations of the UR-210/220/230, the Polaris is arguably the most interesting to date because of the material. It retains the familiar design of the series, but represents an achievement for Urwerk with the proprietary ceramic-fibreglass composite. The fact that Urwerk is going beyond complications and case design is laudable. The composite addresses one of the weakness of pure ceramic, which is vaunted for its durability and immunity to scratches – that very hardness makes it fragile. Dropped onto a hard surface, for instance, ceramic may crack or break. Moreover, such damage is impossible to repair, making case replacement necessary (and inevitably expensive). The UR-230 Polaris is more expensive than the other models in the series that sport conventions case materials. The higher price is arguably justified considering the new material, although if this new material makes its way into more affordable Urwerk models, then the material would lose some of its novelty. Satellite complication Fibreglass-reinforced cera...
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