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Fratello
What do you do when you, as the owner of a watch company, have a thing for square watches? That’s correct: you create a square watch. That, in a nutshell, is the origin story behind the Patek Philippe Cubitus. The launch of the first all-new product line in 25 years was a significant moment not […] Visit Behind The Patek Philippe Cubitus to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Continuing the development of scaled-down versions of its signature wristwatch, Ressence unveils the Type 9. Characterised by a 39 mm titanium case – the smallest model in the brand’s current catalogue – the Type 9 is similar to the Type 8 in being a time-only displaying just hours and minutes, with no seconds. In a first for the brand, the minute scale has been repositioned from the dial to the fixed bezel that now sports a five-minute scale. Initial thoughts The Type 9 is a logical evolution of the brand’s entry-level model that retains the trademark “planetary” time display but in a smaller, simpler format. With a diameter of only 39 mm and short lugs, the Type 9 is more wearable. Though the Type 9 is the most affordable watch in the line-up, the new model does not compromise on aesthetics, maintaining the distinctive look and feel. Priced at CHF12,500, the Type 9 is CHF1,000 less expensive than the next-most-affordable model, the Type 8. For me, it is an ideal Ressence wristwatch that combines a perfect proportions with affordability. Arguably the only downside of the Type 9 is that it adds to the ever-growing catalogue of fairly similar models. The overlap between the Types 8 and 9 are obvious and possibly confusing. Perfect size In traditional Ressence style, the case of the Type 9 has no crown. Instead time-setting and manual winding of the movement is done by rotating the case back. Due to its construction, the case is only water resistant to 10 m, “s...
Worn & Wound
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up.As always, the Windup Watch Team is available to consult with you and answer any questions. In addition, all these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up.As always, the Windup Watch Team is available to consult with you and answer any questions. In addition, all these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post Go To Travel Options, A Boutique Exclusive Deal, And Shining a Diffused Light appeared first on Worn & Wound.
The year is winding down, but only after a few more new releases. On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, we take a look at the Ressence Type 9, the smallest Ressence yet. Then we dive into Jacques Bianchi, square up with the Circula Facet, head to the mountains with Élge, and turn green with Fratello and Czapek-lastly, we nerd out with Vianney Halter and Louis Erard, who are bringing steampunk back. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop and its new Brooklyn showroom. Inside, find watches, accessories, EDC, and more from the Windup Watch Shop. The showroom is located at Worn & Wound HQ, a newly built-out shopping space that immerses you in watches from brands you won’t find in your normal AD. If you’re in the area and are interested in stopping by, head to Windupwatchshop.com to book an appointment. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 95 – A Colossal Collab, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
In this latest edition of Fratelli Stories, Fratello reader Dan speaks about the three most special watches in his extensive collection - a Citizen, Seiko, and Edox. These three watches help connect him to warm memories of his two grandfathers. One of the best elements of this hobby has to be the people. I don’t […] Visit Fratelli Stories: Dan’s Connection To His Grandfathers Through Their Watches to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe had an active 2024, not just because of the launch of the ref. 5330G World Time with Date, a massive collection of Rare Handcrafts, and of course the Cubitus. But equally notable was the announcement of updates to the Patek Philippe Seal. Buried on the last page of its 2024 Watches & Wonders brochure was some fine print about some updates to the brand’s internal certification that superseded the longstanding Poinçon de Genève in 2009. The updates applied to two things that watch enthusiasts love to argue about: water resistance and rate accuracy. Officially rated to 30 m and -1/+2 seconds a day Initial thoughts Water resistance is never far from the minds of watch geeks, so it’s no surprise that this is dominated the discourse when the announcement was made earlier in the year; the idea of a Nautilus rated to just 30 m was concerning to many. Apparently even the fact that the watch itself was unchanged did little to quiet the nerves. Perhaps because people enjoy the opportunity to punch up, far more attention was paid to the issue of water resistance than the meaningful updates made to timekeeping testing and certification, which cement Patek Philippe’s position as the leader in high-end mechanical timekeeping at scale. The cal. 240 PS CI J LU of the Cubitus ref. 5822P also features a Spiromax hairspring, clearly visible Thirty meters But let’s get water resistance out of the way. Patek Philippe now guarantees all of its water-resistant watches to ...
Quill & Pad
When the hammer came down at the Phillips auction and GaryG became the new owner of an A. Lange & Söhne Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon, the feeling was one of complete joy, representing the culmination of a multiyear chase. What makes this particular watch so special in so many ways to him?
Fratello
We know you’re probably reading this in your pajamas like you should on a Sunday morning. However, imagine you have an invitation to a more formal party during the coming Christmas holidays. Of course, you have to decide which watch you will wear. So, what if you had to choose between the Echo/Neutra Rivanera or […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Serica 1174 Parade Vs. Echo/Neutra Rivanera to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. A New Pack from YETI We’re big fans of both YETI and Mystery Ranch around here, so when it was announced in early 2024 that the former had acquired the latter, it had many of us curious about what the future would hold for the storied backpack brand. Rumors have circulated for months that YETI would be phasing out the Mystery Ranch name, and it looks like a new pack introduced recently could provide a preview of how these brands might live together in the future. The Yeti Bozeman 27L Backpack has a design that will be familiar to many Mystery Ranch acolytes because, as you’d expect, it was designed in partnership with the Mystery Ranch team. While the small aesthetic details are all YETI, the functionality, including the “RipZip” opening and adjustable harness system, are clearly attributed to Mystery Ranch. You can find more information on the Bozeman 27L Backpack right here. Is Enron Back? Earlier this week, a chill went down the spine of many who are old enough to remember the Enron scandal, and the dramatic fall of the Texas based energy company. It all fell apart in th...
Time+Tide
This week saw a whole host of releases from every corner of the industry as we enter the final month of the year and gift buying starts to ramp up.The post New releases from Parmigiani Fleurier, MB&F;, Zenith and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Zenith DEFY Extreme Jungle is a limited edition timepiece that draws inspiration from the untamed energy and captivating mystery of the jungle. As the final installment in Zenith's series of watches inspired by extreme environments, this model follows the Desert and Glacier editions. Limited to just 50 pieces, the DEFY Extreme Jungle combines innovative design with high-performance features, making it a notable addition to Zenith's DEFY collection.
Fratello
I first saw the new Nivada F77 Black Ceramic during this year’s Geneva Watch Days. It must have been one of the earliest prototypes, if not the first, and it took me a while to understand. Let me explain. A ceramic watch looks like a PVD/DLC-coated piece to the naked eye. That is until you […] Visit Hands-On With The New Nivada F77 Black Ceramic to read the full article.
Monochrome
What do you go for if you want a genuinely fast 2+2 sports car but with a bit of extra boot space for your weekend getaways? Any suggestions? I’ll spare you the pressure of coming up with one, as I already have the answer lined up for you: the Brabus Rocket GTS. It’s spacious enough for four plus […]
Time+Tide
Japan is heralded as a place for amazing vintage watches and red-hot independent brands. But where does Japan's love of watches come from? The post What influence do Japanese collectors still have on the industry? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Farer is one of the OGs of the microbrand universe. Founded in 2015, the brand prides itself on British design and Swiss production. Over the years, Farer found a style of its own and a clever position within the greater watch market, making it a household name today. This week, the brand announced a new […] Visit Introducing: Two Limited-Edition Farer Endurance Models In Gunmetal And Jade to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Heuer Autavia “Viceroy” Starting off this week with a big boy watch, a vintage Heuer Autavia Viceroy chronograph. This classic chrono stunner comes in a 42mm steel case that is unpolished with sharp edges and the original brushed finish. The beautifully symmetrical black dial has dual white chrono subdials and a date window at 6 o’clock. The dial, hands and bezel are original and in excellent condition. The watch is powered by a manual wind Heuer caliber 12 movement that is clean and runs well per the seller. These vintage Heuer chronographs are highly sought after and hard to find at auction in this condition. Great opportunity for a nice, scarce Heuer. View auction here Art Deco Bulova On the opposite end of the watch spectrum we have this gorgeous vintage Art Deco Bulova dress watch. Despite the title in the auction listing, this watch is actually from 1953, denoted by the “L3” date code on the back. However, the style is definitely reminiscent of the 1930s, especially the dial, with its two tone gold color and highly stylized Art Deco numerals. The 27mm gold fill case has a fancy faceted bezel and lugs to complete the Deco look. The crown is original and signed w...
Monochrome
Some of the most spectacularly finished watches come from Lang & Heyne, a small high-end watchmaker from the outskirts of Dresden. Especially the Anton Manufaktur Edition, with its tourbillon that seems to float in thin air, is a feast for the eye. We visited Lang & Heyne to give you a view inside the manufacture.
Worn & Wound
My relationship with Doxa watches spans over 20 years. As an avid reader of Clive Cussler, I was particularly excited when Doxa decided to relaunch the Sub 300T in the early 2000s. I even managed to secure a review sample for the magazine I wrote for then. Once I received the watch, I became curious about why Clive Cussler chose to have his antagonist wear an orange-dialed Doxa watch. To find out, I reached out to his publicist and received a surprising response: “Dr. Cussler would like you to call him for an interview.” I still vividly remember the shock and nervousness I felt. After leaving him a message, he promptly returned my call, and we spoke for an entire hour. Ultimately, I received my answer, which you can read about in my article on the Doxa Clive Cussler Themed Sub 300T release we published last July. If you want to read my full interview with Dr. Cussler, even though the magazine is no longer available, NUMA, Cussler’s real-life National Underwater and Marine Agency, has it on their website. Since then, I have owned numerous Doxa watches, but none of them have called out my name quite as much as their latest collaboration with Topper Fine Jewelers. It’s as if they were thinking about me while designing this one. The new Doxa Sub 300 Great White Topper Edition is a white-dialed beauty with a fully luminescent dial. I know what you’re thinking: if you’re going to own a Doxa, shouldn’t it be colorful? Specifically, shouldn’t it be orange? The answ...
Fratello
Topper Fine Jewelers in Burlingame, California has created some truly memorable collaborative limited-edition watches. Brands like Zodiac, Seiko, and Fears have been featured on one or more of the 14 pieces thus far. The latest release is the Doxa Sub 300 “Great White” Topper Edition. It’s a cool piece with enough differences from the serial-production […] Visit The Doxa Sub 300 “Great White” Topper Edition - An LE Done Right to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Hanhart explores some lesser-known history, and brings back a taste of the 1960s.The post Hanhart tugs at its fans’ vintage heartstrings with the 415 ES, bringing back the winged logo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
When it was first presented in 2017, the Black Bay Chrono generated mixed emotions. The good ones came from the overall performance and fairly reasonable price (considering the whole package), as well as the unexpected industrial alliance with Breitling. Others pointed out the rather uninspired design of the inaugural edition as well as the strange mix […]
SJX Watches
The second watch launched by Biver, the Automatique is a three-hand time-only, functionally simple but elaborately executed. Even the base model has a surprisingly complex dial, but the Automatique is really all about the JCB-003 movement, which is a micro-rotor calibre that ranks up there as one of most impressive recent self-winding movements. Established by Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, Biver got its start with a far more complicated watch, but the Automatique is arguably more impressive because it’s a simple watch executed in a complicated yet cohesive manner. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts Yet another time-only watch with a dressed up movement and hefty price tag – the formula feels a little worn out now. So the Biver Automatique surprises on the upside. I like it. The design is appealing and cohesive, while the movement is impressive. In contrast, when Biver debuted with the Carillon Tourbillon minute repeater, I thought “the quality is unmistakeable, the aesthetics are lacking”. The Automatique lives up to the same levels of quality – and maybe even more – but it is instinctively appealing, even considering the price. The solid gold dial of the entry-level version in rose gold Even though Biver is not an artisanal independent brand in the conventional sense of the word since neither of its founders are watchmakers, the JCB-003 movement is executed to a standard that equals many artisanal independents. The construction is thoughtful and sophisticate...
Fratello
Last week, we organized an evening with Breitling at the brand’s impressive boutique in our hometown of The Hague, Netherlands. We invited a fairly large group of Fratelli to look at the current Breitling collection. But Fred Mandelbaum, our special guest, was also there, and he brought part of his extensive vintage Breitling collection. So […] Visit Event Report: Celebrating Breitling’s 140th Anniversary At The Brand’s Boutique In The Hague to read the full article.
SJX Watches
One aspect of a watch that is often overlooked - but ironically the one that is front and centre - is the dial. While often conservative in terms of design, Rolex is perhaps at its most expressive in the details of its dials, which blend classic elements with modern touches, all accomplished by modern manufacturing techniques and finishes. Even though a dial may seem simple on its face compared to the moving parts of the movement, dials are complex. Much goes into making a high quality dial, the dial blank, applied ornaments, surface finishing, gold indices, and more recently even grand feu enamel. A diamond-set dial for the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Unsurprisingly Rolex takes dial making very seriously. Reflecting its long-term vision, Rolex has invested tremendously in every aspect of manufacturing wristwatches, including producing its own dials. Dial manufacturing of the highest quality, and at scale, is a challenge few have truly mastered. Rolex accomplished that with a dedicated dial-making facility in the Chêne-Bourg district of Geneva, located about 15 minutes from Rolex headquarters, where some 500 people work exclusively on dial conception, prototyping, and production. Notably, the Chêne-Bourg facility also does gem setting as well as the production of Cerachrom components like the GMT-Master II bezel insert. In-house dial making has given Rolex control of the entire process, allowing the brand to innovate, even in rethinking the very foundation of a dial, n...
Fratello
Mühle Glashütte is known for its sporty and reliable timepieces. For 2024, the brand has big news with a brand-new line of watches. The Sportivo collection consists of three models made for sports, the office, and everywhere else. We’ll provide a brief overview of each release. The Mühle Glashütte Sportivo line includes a chronograph, GMT, […] Visit Mühle Glashütte Introduces The New Sportivo Line to read the full article.
Fratello
When the Spinnaker Croft 42 Skeleton Automatic landed on my desk, it instantly reminded me of two watches. The first was the skeletonized Rado Captain Cook in all its various guises. In all fairness, that’s not a bad visual reference. The second one was a little closer to home, though. In the 1990s, my brother […] Visit Hands-On With The Spinnaker Croft 42 Skeleton Automatic to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
As I write this piece, I find it fitting that Worn & Wound was co-founded by Zach Weiss, who, as many of you may know, happens to be an Industrial Designer too. There are dozens of us! DOZENS! When it comes to Industrial Design and the watches we love, it’s hard to separate the two, especially in the modern day. For this argument, let’s assume “modern day” refers to everything after 1972, when Gerald Genta changed the watch landscape forever with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Not only did this release change the landscape for folks within the watch industry, but it caught the eye of Industrial Designers who were green in their careers at the time, which later created a snowball effect of designing outside the box when it comes to watches. No longer were we restricted to the round case and the simple forms of previous years. Yes, there were unique watches before this period, but with the progression of design aesthetics and newer advanced manufacturing methods, this was the jumping-off point for wild designs and new methods of manufacture. Marc Newson, the world-renowned industrial designer, is one of those who likely caught the curiosity bug of watches at the right time (pun fully intended). This is purely speculation on my part, but there is some evidence for my madness here, so bear with me. He would have been 9 years old when the Royal Oak was introduced, and years later, when adolescent youth and creativity were at a high for him during his university years, I...
Time+Tide
Christopher Ward enters the world of retail for the first time exclusively at the Time+Tide London Discovery Studio. The post You can now buy Christopher Ward in our London Watch Discovery Studio! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
David Candaux, an independent watchmaker and member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) since 2019, is regarded as one of the most talented creators in contemporary horology. To understand and appreciate his work, it is important to remember his professional journey and the philosophy that infuses his timepieces with unique character, and the […]
Hodinkee
This year sees the second installment of the buzzy art-meets-high horology auction at Phillips New York.
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