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The Breitling SuperOcean 44 is the anti-Submariner Time+Tide
Breitling SuperOcean 44 Jan 17, 2023

The Breitling SuperOcean 44 is the anti-Submariner

One of the most rewarding things for me about my watch-collecting journey is getting together with other collectors. Not so that we can all posture, judge, and brag, rather for the friendships and connections that are much more meaningful than any timepiece (yes, even a Tiffany dial 5711). I try to attend RedBar meetups locally … ContinuedThe post The Breitling SuperOcean 44 is the anti-Submariner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hermès Debuts a Luxe Take on the H08 Sports Watch SJX Watches
Hermes would remove Jan 17, 2023

Hermès Debuts a Luxe Take on the H08 Sports Watch

Having just introduced the cushion-shaped H08 sports watch last year, Hermès is now giving it a new look with a case in rose gold, ceramic, and DLC-treated titanium. While the design is identical to the earlier versions, the new H08 gains a bold and luxurious look – along with a steeper price tag – with the new mix of case materials. Initial thoughts The mix of materials on the new H08 are a perfect complement to the clean design and simple lines of the watch. Though certainly a bit more flashy than the muted originals, the new H08 is still an understated watch. I appreciate the use of ceramic and DLC-coated titanium as it creates contrast while dialling down the bling factor. The result is a watch that manages to look different from other sports watches, even though the black-and-rose-gold formula is a familiar one. But as with the original, I wish Hermes would remove the date between four and five o’clock. Given its functional design and focus on geometric shapes, I feel the H08 should be about an unconditional focus on the time. Priced at US$17,000, the new H08 costs almost double the model in titanium. That’s about the going rate for upgrading from titanium to a precious metal case, but it is still a chunk of change. While the original was fair value given its cost-to-performance ratio, this one is a little tougher to justify, though it is arguably far more attractive. Two-tone cushion The new H08 is actually comprised of three different materials: the bezel a...

Seiko Introduces Astrolabe Inspired Prospex Save the Ocean Limited Edition 1965 Modern Re-interpretation SLA065 Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Astrolabe Inspired Prospex Jan 16, 2023

Seiko Introduces Astrolabe Inspired Prospex Save the Ocean Limited Edition 1965 Modern Re-interpretation SLA065

The new Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean Limited Edition 1965 Modern Reinterpretation, or better known as the SLA065, is an addition to a long line of limited edition Prospex watches that have served as a platform for the brand to support various marine conservation programs. It’s a watch that houses multiple intersections of Seiko design and various historical instruments embodying the spirit of exploration during a point in time when what was beyond the horizon, and below the ocean’s surface, was virtually unknown. While resting on the shoulders of the 62MAS, Seiko continues the lineage of the archetypal diver through the SLA065, while simultaneously paying tribute to a time keeping device that predates the wrist watch. The overlapping circle design on the dial is inspired by a 6th century scientific instrument known as an astrolabe. Used for tracking time and astronomical observation, the astrolabe in its infancy was used to track the sun and other prominent stars in relation to the horizon (latitude) and the meridian (longitude). Naturally this information would prove useful for those navigating the seas, and so the astrolabe was modified to be sturdier and more aerodynamic by cutting some of the disc components away. Using a set of pin holes, a pivoting ruler, and a scale on the outer portion of the instrument, a seafarer would be able to determine their latitude, the height of the sun, as well as the time. As one prominent adventurer once put it, the distance you’v...

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SPB361 & SPB363 take inspiration from the break of dawn Time+Tide
Seiko Presage SPB361 & SPB363 Jan 16, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SPB361 & SPB363 take inspiration from the break of dawn

Seiko’s attempt to clean up their back catalogue and simplify their product lines may have backfired as soon as they flooded the world with new releases across varying price points, but the Seiko Presage range has continued to be reliably impressive, housing some of the brand’s top finishing and movements. Even within that realm of quality, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SPB361 & SPB363 take inspiration from the break of dawn appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hamilton Khaki Field Collection: A Comprehensive Buying Guide for 2024 Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Jan 16, 2023

Hamilton Khaki Field Collection: A Comprehensive Buying Guide for 2024

When it comes to being a vital thread in the American historical tapestry, few watch companies can compare with Hamilton. Founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, during an era in which the United States was a world leader in timepiece production, the Hamilton Watch Company has played a role in building and growing the young nation since its earliest days. And though the company has for several decades been making its watches in Switzerland rather than the United States, its American heritage, and its particular association with the American military, is evident in several of its modern-day collections, perhaps most plainly in the Hamilton Khaki Field collection, which channels the martial aesthetics of the 1940s in a stye that few other modern timepiece families can match.  From Railroads to Battlefields In 1912, as railroads began spanning and connecting the sprawling reaches of the country, it was Hamilton that produced the uncommonly sturdy and precise pocket watches that railroad conductors used to keep the trains on time and on schedule; in those days before an established international system of time zones, a poorly running watch could initiate a disaster on the rails. Just two years later, as the United States entered the First World War that was besieging Europe, Hamilton shifted its focus from being the acknowledged “Railroad Timekeeper of America” to building compact timekeepers that American G.I.s could wear and depend upon in the trenches and battlefie...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price Time+Tide
Jan 16, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price

Le Jour aren’t what you would typically consider a microbrand. They weren’t funded through a Kickstarter campaign, nor were they founded by a young visionary who wanted to shake up the watch industry. In fact, if the Le Jour brand name is familiar to you, it may be because they were quite a popular brand … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jan 16, 2023

Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater

Founded by a duo who trained as jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in transforming old pocket watch movements and installing them in custom-made wristwatches. Based in Slovakia, Molnar Fabry recently completed its third minute-repeating wristwatch, the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater. The Royal Symphony is powered by a movement from a 1910 pocket watch made by Haas Neveux & Cie., a Geneva-based watch brand known for its high-quality movements that active from the mid-19th century to the 1920s. In typical Molnar Fabry style, the movement was entirely reworked, not only to restore its mechanical function, but also entirely decorated to a high level that includes engraving on the bridges. Initial thoughts Each watch made by Molnar Fabry is unique and mostly made according to the client’s specifications since most are made to order. As a result, the brand’s house style covers a diverse aesthetic – it is certainly not for everyone – but the quality of work is always impressive. Being jewellers, the brand’s founders apply the same artisanal, manual techniques used in producing jewellery to their watches. Even in photos the artisanal nature of the work is apparent, ranging from the movement decoration to the hand engraving on the case back. However, Molnar Fabry’s work on the movement is primarily decorative rather than mechanical. As a result, the Haas Neveux calibre still has a balance staff without shock protection. That’s like a non-issue in a watch like the Roy...

A Week In Watches Ep. 32: LVMH Watch Week Lands with a (Big) Bang, & Oris Drops a New Caliber Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Carrera alongside Jan 15, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 32: LVMH Watch Week Lands with a (Big) Bang, & Oris Drops a New Caliber

Welcome to A Week In Watches episode 32 with Managing Editor, Blake Buettner jumping in to chat about some of the new watches released during LVMH Watch Week. We’ve got some bombastic Hublots, an anniversary LE of the TAG Heuer Carrera alongside a low-key killer Aquaracer, and of course, some new Skyline references from Zenith. If none of that is your thing we’ve also got some news from Oris, who released a new caliber this week within a lovely Big Crown Pointer Date. Find links to all these stories below and hit the video for the full episode. Share your thoughts on YouTube (and subscribe to the channel while you’re there), or right here in the comments section.  This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The Carrera Turns 60 this Year, and TAG Heuer is Celebrating This year marks the 60th anniversary of the Carrera chronograph, and if you thought TAG Heuer was going to let even a month go by without acknowledging what is perhaps their most famous and admired watch, well, you must be new. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary is exactly what you probably want to see if you’re a fan of classic Heuer racing chronographs, as it’s modeled after one of the most legendary Carrera references, the 2447 SN, and matches it detail for detail. Read the full story here. Hublot Asks: Why Settle for Steel When You Could Have SAXEM? ...

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph What Jan 15, 2023

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph

What comes to mind when you think of Louis Vuitton? Is it leather bags and wallets? Cream coloured trim? Or maybe a set of high-end luggage for travelling around the world? What if I told you what you should be thinking of is a watch collection with an iconic and flexible design? That’s what we … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Diving With The Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer – Repise Quill & Pad
Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Jan 15, 2023

Diving With The Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer – Repise

When Ball Watch asked Dietmar Fuchs to test dive one of the company’s newest watches, the Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer, he hesitated at first. Ball didn’t jingle a diving bell for him, but something else from its history jangled: a brand’s “history” section is always the first thing he checks before testing a watch and he discovered Ball Watch has the credentials. So he dove in and now shares his experience and thoughts on the watch here.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Boots with Commando Soul, In-Depth Leica Lens Guide, Steven Soderbergh’s Annual EOY List, & More Worn & Wound
Jan 14, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Boots with Commando Soul, In-Depth Leica Lens Guide, Steven Soderbergh’s Annual EOY List, & More

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Robb Report / Grenson Boots With Commando Soul Via Robb Report / Grenson Boots are very much a part of our everyday gear around the office. We’re no strangers to throwing on and lacing up rugged works of art from brands like Red Wing, Grant Stone, and Blundstone, even if the closest outdoorsy thing we do on a regular basis is to climb the set of stairs that lead into the office. Turns out, the rubber soles on some of these boots actually have a purpose and history that dates back to WWII. Via Robb Report / Grenson Are you wearing a pair of boots right now? Stop reading and check out the soles of your boots. If you see chunky rubber blocks framing several star-shaped medallions lined down the middle, then you my friend are rocking a boot with a commando sole. Developed for the military, this specific rubber soul served its purpose by giving soldiers more traction, cushion, and stability out in the battlefield. When the war finally ended, British shoemakers translated this style into casual boots providing practical features to regular folks who want to get about ...

New: Seiko 62MAS modern interpretation Seiko SLA065 Deployant
Seiko 62MAS modern interpretation Seiko Jan 14, 2023

New: Seiko 62MAS modern interpretation Seiko SLA065

The SLA065 is comfortable on the wrist and fits well despite its relatively tall 13.1mm thickness. It is now issued in a larger 41mm case instead of the 39mm case in the SLA017 reissue. The watch is water resistant to 200 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear. Overall, the Seiko Prospex SLA065 is a great choice for anyone looking for a fun daily beater. The combination of high-quality case finish and craftsmanship, along with the mechanical movement, make the new 62MAS reissue a standout choice. The watch is limited to 1300 pieces.

Prince Harry may be a divisive figure, but he does own one hell of a Rolex… Time+Tide
Rolex Jan 14, 2023

Prince Harry may be a divisive figure, but he does own one hell of a Rolex…

In the wake of his new biography, Spare, we now know far too much about Prince Harry. We know, for example, that Harry had a frostbitten “todger” during his brother’s wedding to Kate Middleton. We know that Harry killed 25 Taliban fighters in Afghanistan. We know that he lost his virginity in a field outside … ContinuedThe post Prince Harry may be a divisive figure, but he does own one hell of a Rolex… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Bulgari x Lisa has a crazy dial you’ve never seen before Time+Tide
Bulgari Bulgari x Lisa has Jan 14, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Bulgari x Lisa has a crazy dial you’ve never seen before

Blackpink star Lisa was made a Bulgari ambassador in 2020 Their new collaboration has a crazy triple-hue dial It features a loving tribute to her Swiss step-dad Not too long ago in 2022, my first exposure to South Korean stars in the realm of Swiss watches was a photoshoot with heartthrob Hyun Bin wearing the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Bulgari x Lisa has a crazy dial you’ve never seen before appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Vincent Deschamps Worn & Wound
Jan 13, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Vincent Deschamps

Editor’s note: In our first Three Watch Collection for $5,000 of 2023, reader and fellow watch writer, Vincent Deschamps of Mainspring.Watch brings us a trio of classics from some of our favorite small independent brands. There’s a lovely and unique balance to these three watches and it’s one of the most creative we’ve come across yet.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. It wasn’t until I thought of submitting my ideas for a three-watch collection for $5,000 that I imagined myself as someone who could have a three-watch collection. While I tend to only wear the same watch everyday (the Lorier Falcon III,) I do see the massive benefit of having other watches for different purposes. As an enthusiastic support of independent watchmaking, below you will find my selection for a three-watch collection below. Each watch fulfills a particular need and use case and I believe each one does it quite well. Lorier Falcon Mark III – $499 At the top of my list is the Lorier Falcon Mark III released in late 2022, the archetype everyday sports watch. I’m a sucker for watches that can do 100% of what I need 95% of the time, and that’s what the Falcon is to me. It comes with a solid build, good specs, and an elegant figure that makes it work in most situations I find myself in. And it’s quite affordable coming in at $499. There are two things about this watch that make it work so well for me: it...

[VIDEO] Tudor Black Bay Retrospective, A Watch The Launched An Era Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay Retrospective Jan 13, 2023

[VIDEO] Tudor Black Bay Retrospective, A Watch The Launched An Era

Much has been said about the Tudor Black Bay, here and elsewhere, and it’s ushering in of a new era of heritage inspired watches that’s taken hold throughout the industry. The Black Bay family has grown to include a broad range of watches, from GMTs and chronographs, to two-toned 36mm field watches, but the charm of the classic divers remains as strong today as when they were first released more than 10 years ago. Most of us here, and presumably many of you reading, have seen a Black Bay or two come through our collection at some point over the years, and each year we hold out hope for a particular spec or version of the watch we’d like to see released. It’s just had that kind of an effect on enthusiasts.  As luck would have it, we recently found ourselves with an abundance of Black Bay watches in the office, so we took the opportunity to get them together and discuss the impact it’s had on each of us over the years. Below find a selection of our Black Bay reviews that we’ve published, including some of our favorites like the Black Bay 58, the Black Bay Pro, and the Steel & Gold Chrono. How has the Black Bay impacted your collecting? Which examples have you owned or do you hope to own? Let us know in the comments and be sure to share your ideal Black Bay that you’d love to see Tudor release this year. Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue The Black Bay 58 in blue was a bright spot in an otherwise tumultuous 2020. This was the second version...

The Carrera Turns 60 this Year, and TAG Heuer is Celebrating Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Jan 13, 2023

The Carrera Turns 60 this Year, and TAG Heuer is Celebrating

This year marks the 60th anniversary of the Carrera chronograph, and if you thought TAG Heuer was going to let even a month go by without acknowledging what is perhaps their most famous and admired watch, well, you must be new. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary is exactly what you probably want to see if you’re a fan of classic Heuer racing chronographs, as it’s modeled after one of the most legendary Carrera references, the 2447 SN, and matches it detail for detail. Reinterpreting classic watches in a modern package is something TAG probably doesn’t get enough credit for, but if you really want to feel like you’re wearing a vintage watch made with meticulous care, there are few brands doing it better than TAG right now.  TAG Heuer is positioning this new release as a watch for the serious collector. It’s limited to 600 units, and the brand is well aware of the high profile of the 2447 SN. Back in early 2020, TAG celebrated the 160th anniversary of the brand with the similarly positioned 160 Years Silver Limited Edition, a recreation of the all silver 2447 S. That was a hugely popular release at the time, but you can imagine collectors grumbling about a preference for the more dynamic panda dial of the 2447 SN. Now it seems likely that TAG was wisely saving the SN for the Carrera’s big 60th birthday party, and we can see the full picture of their strategy take shape.  It’s hard to find something new to say about a watch like the Carrera. Do...

Which watch brand won 2022? Borna picks Parmigiani Fleurier – here’s why… Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier here’s why… Editor’s note Jan 13, 2023

Which watch brand won 2022? Borna picks Parmigiani Fleurier – here’s why…

Editor’s note: During one of our final editorial meetings of the year, the question was posed: which watch brand won 2022? This then raises the question of what it means to win. Is it total revenue? Likes on social media? Page views on our site? The number of watch spots in the wild? There is … ContinuedThe post Which watch brand won 2022? Borna picks Parmigiani Fleurier – here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 5 best high complication watches of 2022 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Jan 13, 2023

The 5 best high complication watches of 2022

It’s nearly impossible to distil and encompass the variety and unique features of last year’s best complication into only five picks, but we’ll do our best to try, while having to include only a couple honourable mentions. Like any other year, established players in mainstream high-end watchmaking like Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne … ContinuedThe post The 5 best high complication watches of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is Now Open SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Jan 13, 2023

The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is Now Open

An annual award that seeks to recognise and support promising watchmakers, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is open for submissions until February 1, 2023. The entry criteria is straightforward: watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from any country who have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”, but professional qualifications or training are not necessary. The prize is a CHF20,000 grant meant to finance tools or a watchmaking project. The contest will be judged by a panel including Francois-Paul Journe himself and Giulio Papi, who will select the winner based on originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on Fpjourne.com from now until February 1, 2023.  

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Recapping the releases of the week – Grand Seiko, Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Bulgari Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Zenith Hublot TAG Heuer Jan 13, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Recapping the releases of the week – Grand Seiko, Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Bulgari

While it may only be the second week of the new year, we already, in this past week alone, have a ton of new novelties to explore. Much of this can be attributed to LVMH Watch Week, that just wrapped up in Singapore, but Grand Seiko also threw their hat in the ring as well. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Recapping the releases of the week – Grand Seiko, Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Bulgari appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko’s First Limited Editions of 2023 Celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the 9S Caliber Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s First Limited Editions Jan 12, 2023

Grand Seiko’s First Limited Editions of 2023 Celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the 9S Caliber

It’s an often repeated mantra around here: every year is an anniversary year. And if a watch brand is going to be successful in today’s hyper competitive market where, frankly, a lot of brands are offering products that are remarkably similar to one another, they need to differentiate themselves. And looking at a calendar, and figuring out how many years it’s been since “X” accomplishment or “Y” watch was first released is (usually) a decent runway for explaining what makes you special. To that end, Grand Seiko is embarking on what will apparently be a year of celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Caliber 9S, a movement which has become foundational to Grand Seiko in the decades since its debut.  The Caliber 9S has become a broad family of movements over the years, as Grand Seiko has continuously refined the caliber, including adding GMT functionality. Grand Seiko has used the 9S movements as a platform for their MEMS engineering techniques, which allow for insanely tight tolerances in movement making for certain key components, and you could probably argue that 9S movements represent the most traditional watchmaking currently practiced by the brand. Today, 9S movements are universally known to be reliable and rock solid high frequency calibers that often perform even better than the specs would indicate. Most recently, the 9S served as the springboard for the creation of Grand Seiko’s next generation Hi-Beat movement, the 9SA5.  While it might not be t...

LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings Jan 12, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop

LVMH Watch Week is back, and Zenith is bringing out the big guns to kick off 2023. And one of the biggest and boldest has to be the new limited-to-50 Defy Extreme Glacier chrono, a technological tour-de-force in a striking package that incorporates a unique material. The 45mm titanium case still retains the angular, architectural … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.