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Results for Perpetual Calendar

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Perpetual Calendar

The mechanical calendar that knows leap years automatically through 2100.

#kicktock: The party’s on in this matchup of bright colours from Rolex and Puma x Porsche Time+Tide
Rolex Nov 21, 2020

#kicktock: The party’s on in this matchup of bright colours from Rolex and Puma x Porsche

While you adjust your sunnies, so as not to be blinded by the yellow and baby blue show, let’s ask some pressing questions. Do we expect these colourways from Puma? Yes. Do we expect atomic daffodil orange and bright Tiffany blue in the most traditional model from Rolex, the Oyster Perpetual? Not exactly. The OP … ContinuedThe post #kicktock: The party’s on in this matchup of bright colours from Rolex and Puma x Porsche appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Value Buys at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin chronograph Nov 20, 2020

Highlights: Value Buys at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction

Happening at the end of the month, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XI is a 250-lot auction with a diversity of offerings, including a good number of grand complications as well as a full complement of the recently-launched Rolex Oyster Perpetual with candy-coloured dials. But for the enthusiast with more esoteric tastes, the sale also includes a selection of affordable independent watchmaking, as well as value buys from more mainstream brands – here’s a look at a couple of highlights, ranging from a surprisingly well-priced Grand Lange 1 Luna Mundi to a white-and-rose-gold Vacheron Constantin chronograph. The auction happens on November 29  at the JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, while the catalogue and online bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 803 – Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Professional 1000 m “Tuna” Gundam Zaku set An anime series about humans doing battle in giant robots, Mobile Suit Gundam is one of the most famed examples of Japanese pop culture, even having a Wikipedia page titled “Cultural impact of Gundam“. Seiko rolled out several limited editions for the 40th anniversary of the franchise last year, including this pair dedicated to the villains of the series, the dome-headed robots known as Zaku. Bulbous and vaguely military in form, the Prospex “Tuna” – arguably the most iconic of Seiko’s many dive watch designs – is surprisingly well matched to the Zaku robots. Resembling a tuna can, the watch case is actually double walled, made ...

UPDATED: The complete list of Bond watches – now including “No Time to Die” Time+Tide
Nov 14, 2020

UPDATED: The complete list of Bond watches – now including “No Time to Die”

Editor’s note: Before you ask, yes we have a date. April 2, 2021. It ain’t exactly days away, but at least we know how long the advent calendar has to be. A fair bit of chocolate is the upside. We are happy to report that one of the largest entertainment-related casualties of the pandemic, the delay … ContinuedThe post UPDATED: The complete list of Bond watches – now including “No Time to Die” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How did this Rolex get past QA? Revisiting the suspicious case of the ‘Double 9’ Air-King… Time+Tide
Rolex get past QA? Revisiting Oct 27, 2020

How did this Rolex get past QA? Revisiting the suspicious case of the ‘Double 9’ Air-King…

Editor’s note: It seems to be yet another sub-sub-sub-culture within the watch collecting community. And that is the people that get some kind of a kick out of Rolex imperfections. I suppose, in lots of ways, it makes sense. They are so rare as to be freaks of nature. Recently, a new Oyster Perpetual model … ContinuedThe post How did this Rolex get past QA? Revisiting the suspicious case of the ‘Double 9’ Air-King… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun “SFTI” SJX Watches
Rado xically Oct 15, 2020

Hands-On: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun “SFTI”

IWC is not the only maker of pilot’s watches, but it is perhaps the best known. The brand’s line up of aviator’s timepieces is all encompassing, from basic three-handers to chronographs, and paradoxically for an aviation instrument, even perpetual calendars. But the latest pilot’s offering is straightforward. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun “SFTI” is a chronograph with a ceramic case, but its pushers, crown, and case back are Ceratanium, which is essentially titanium coated with ceramic. And more notably, it’s a limited edition of 1,500 watches that will be sold publicly, but is based on a similar watch created in 2018 that is available only to graduates of the United States Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor (SFTI) programme, better known as TOPGUN. Initial thoughts IWC is not short on pilot’s watches, even special or limited-edition pilot’s watches. The brand has rolled out many, many iterations, variations, and editions. But the Pilot’s Watch collection is a bestseller so that’s commercially inevitable. But that doesn’t take away from the intrinsic appeal of a pilot’s watch. And IWC has been especially successful at tweaking the no-nonsense design to make it interesting in a way that appeals to the boy in every man. Some of the appeal isn’t sophisticated, but it is there – like the red fighter jet silhouette as the seconds hand counterweight. The base-model IWC Pilot’s Chronograph in steel has that appeal, and in blac...

INTRODUCING: The new Rolex Sky-Dweller on Oysterflex for the first time Time+Tide
Rolex Sky-Dweller Aug 31, 2020

INTRODUCING: The new Rolex Sky-Dweller on Oysterflex for the first time

The Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller is back – pairing Yellow and Everose versions with Oysterflex bracelets for the first time. Oysterflex has become a fan favorite due to its tough, sporty, and adjustable build. The complicated cosmopolitan of the Rolex catalogue with this new configuration becomes a bit more casual and approachable in terms of look … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Rolex Sky-Dweller on Oysterflex for the first time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Independents and the Esoteric at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro Jul 7, 2020

Highlights: Independents and the Esoteric at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Taking place on July 10, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X is the one of the first watch auctions in Hong Kong in 2020, a sign of the much-delayed auction calendar due to the pandemic. But the Phillips catalogue is still 269 lots strong, with a little bit of everything. We took a look at some of the notable complicated watches last week, including the magnificent A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph that’s a strong value buy in uber-complications. Now, we’ll take a look at some of the timepieces by independent watchmakers as well as a handful of interesting, esoteric, and well-priced watches. You can find the rest of the catalogue here. Lot 806 – Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” This sits squarely in the category of weird-but-cool watches. Extremely large at 44 mm, with massive lugs and an even larger crown guard, the Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” is a dive watch rated to 3,000 m – three-thousand metres, or 9,800 feet – with a sharply finished, tourbillon-equipped movement. The combination is paradoxical, and slightly silly, but the watch has a peculiar charm, no doubt helped by its affordability (with a low estimate a little under US$20,000). Made in 2006, a time when diving tourbillons were fashionable and when Girard-Perregaux was still a family-run firm owned by the Macalusos – the certificate for the watch is signed by the late Luigi “Gino” Macaluso – the Sea Hawk tourbillon was a limited edition of 32 w...

Grand Seiko Introduces the Soko US Special Editions SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jun 13, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the Soko US Special Editions

Made exclusively for the American market, the Grand Seiko Soko US Special Editions, like many Grand Seiko watches, are a nod to a Japanese theme or motif. Made up of a pair of Spring Drive watches – the SBGA427 and SBGA429 – with bamboo-green accents, the special edition is named after Soko (霜降), one of the 24 periods of the traditional seasonal calendar. In the Japanese seasonal calendar, the year is divided into 24 periods known as Sekki (節季), each lasting about two weeks. Like any calendars in use before the modern age, the seasonal calendar was based on the solar year, and used by farmers for agriculture. Soko translates as “frost descending”, and marks the end of autumn. Specifically, the two watches take inspiration from Kyoto’s tranquil Arashiyama Bamboo Forest at autumn’s end, translating the scenery into elements of the dial. The Soko SBGA429 Initial thoughts I always love how Grand Seiko encapsulates Japanese concepts or culture in their watches – reflecting a strong national pride – which gives its timepieces an intrinsically distinct style compared to watches from other parts of the world. This is being done more often now that Grand Seiko is being sold widely outside of Japan, especially in the United States. With Grand Seiko gaining traction in America, the brand has produced several special editions available only in the country, such as the Kirazuri and the Japan Seasons special editions – effectively distilling the essence of J...

In-Depth: Konstantin Chaykin and Telling the Time on Mars SJX Watches
TAG Heuer was appointed Jun 4, 2020

In-Depth: Konstantin Chaykin and Telling the Time on Mars

When Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin announced the Mars Conqueror last year, it was not the first Martian-time wristwatch, but it was by far the most advanced and comprehensive watch to indicate Martian time – and even the Martian calendar. TAG Heuer was appointed the official timekeeper for China’s Mars exploration mission in 2016, with its chief executive Jean-Claude Biver declaring that exploring the Red Planet is “the next giant leap for humanity”. With its launch planned for July 2020, the Chinese journey to Mars is just one of several missions to the planet – Russian space agency Roscosmos and NASA are working on similar projects. Despite the steady progress in reaching Mars, no big watch brand has debuted a watch that tells Martian time. Konstantin Chaykin’s experimental Mars Conqueror of 2019 But such watches have been built, as a matter of necessity for the scientists involved in past Mars missions. NASA’s Mars Exploration Rover (MER) of 2004, for instance, commissioned several watchmakers to construct simple but effective Martian-time watches. Since the Martian day, known as a sol, is 24 hours, 39 minutes and 35 seconds, the solution was to slow a conventional watch to match Martian time. Steve Maddox of North Little Rock converted a second world war, military-issue Hamilton 4992B pocket watch for MER team member Jeff Moersch, reducing its frequency from the standard 18,000 beats per hour (bph) to about 17,525 bph. And Los Ang...

Emile Chouriet Introduces the Héritier à Guichet SJX Watches
Apr 15, 2020

Emile Chouriet Introduces the Héritier à Guichet

A brand specialising in affordable watches priced under US$2,000, Emile Chouriet has a fairly generic line-up, but with one obvious exception, the Héritier à Guichets. Showing the time and calendar in windows, the watch is inspired by timepieces of the 1920s, while having a titanium case with fancy lugs. Named after a 17th century French watchmaker, the brand was founded in 1998 by a Swiss businessman but acquired a decade later by Fiyta, a Shenzhen-based watchmaker best known for producing the chronograph issued to Chinese astronauts. Consequently, Emile Chouriet now focuses its efforts on the Chinese market, but the Héritier à Guichet combines an Art Deco style and novel time display that doubtlessly has wider appeal. Digital time displays became fashionable during the Art Deco period, with pocket watches sporting jumping or wandering hours, or even full calendar displays in an elongated window. The Héritier à Guichet takes inspiration from that early 20th century style, reproducing it in an affordable manner. A pale metallic grey with a radial-brushed finish, the dial consists of four windows, with the two closest to the centre showing the hours and minutes, while the outer apertures with wider bevels displaying the day and date. The hours and minutes, however, are not instantaneously jumping displays, instead they are “dragging” indicators that continually move just as conventional hands would. Also unusual is the case: though it has a moderate 40 mm di...

Breaking News: Baselworld 2020 Cancelled, Becomes Baselworld 2021 [Updated] SJX Watches
Rolex Feb 28, 2020

Breaking News: Baselworld 2020 Cancelled, Becomes Baselworld 2021 [Updated]

On a fast-moving Friday that started with the first case of the COVID-19 coronavirus in the city of Basel being diagnosed according to Swiss newspaper Le Temps, the day culminated in the organisers of Baselworld 2020 announcing its postponement to January 2021, essentially cancelling this year’s trade fair. This comes a day after the organisers of Geneva watch fair Watches & Wonders announced it was cancelled, which wipes out the entire year’s calendar for the major watch industry events. Though the Baselworld organisers had initially planned to meet on Monday, March 2, according to an announcement by Hubert J. du Plessix, the president of the event’s exhibitors committee (and also the director of investments and logistics at Rolex), events got ahead of them. The primary catalyst Baselworld’s cancellation was the Swiss government declaring a ban on all gatherings of over 1,000 people, until at least March 15 – which instantly made the Geneva Motor Show, one of the automotive industry’s most important events, a non-starter. Now Baselworld 2021 will take place from January 28 to February 2, with press day happening on January 27. Baselworld managing director Michel Loris-Melikoff, commenting in the announcement of the event’s cancellation, stated “We have found a solution that enables the industry and all our customers to avoid losing a full year and at the same time reset their calendars for the beginning of the year, a period that is conductive to the...

Coronavirus chaos as Bulgari pulls out of Baselword 2020, and Australian boutique openings cancelled Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Feb 11, 2020

Coronavirus chaos as Bulgari pulls out of Baselword 2020, and Australian boutique openings cancelled

The Bulgari booth is among the most grand at the Baselworld fair. Opposite TAG Heuer at the entry to Hall 1, it is a glittering sentry to what was only a few years ago the highlight of the yearly calendar for the world watch industry. Peak glamour. Peak PR. Peak hype. As of this morning, … ContinuedThe post Coronavirus chaos as Bulgari pulls out of Baselword 2020, and Australian boutique openings cancelled appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Deep Dive Into The Award-Winning Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune Quill & Pad
Hermes Feb 9, 2020

A Deep Dive Into The Award-Winning Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune

One of Joshua Munchow's favorite watches from 2019, winning the Calendar and Astronomy prize at the 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, was the Hermès Arceau L'Heure de la Lune. Not only is it a stunning double moon phase watch with wandering dials, but also features an incredible module designed by Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode. Take a deep drive into it here with Joshua.

A journey to the coldest RedBar meeting on earth – Part 1 Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Feb 5, 2020

A journey to the coldest RedBar meeting on earth – Part 1

Editor’s note: Regular Time+Tide contributor Bruce Duguay has recently shared his thoughts with us on the challenges of buying an Omega Speedmaster, and why the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 might be the perfect daily watch, but he also made the treacherous journey through the icy landscape of Alberta, Canada to his first ever RedBar meeting. … ContinuedThe post A journey to the coldest RedBar meeting on earth – Part 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Drake shows us “Life is Good” with his custom Patek Philippe Nautilus designed by Louis Vuitton Artistic Director Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus designed Jan 12, 2020

Drake shows us “Life is Good” with his custom Patek Philippe Nautilus designed by Louis Vuitton Artistic Director

Drake recently took to Instagram to let us know about his latest watch acquisition - a fully custom Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar Ref. 5726 that had been black DLC-coated and gem-set with dozens of emeralds. While Drake is well known for his love of the Genevan firm, this watch was special for a couple of … ContinuedThe post Drake shows us “Life is Good” with his custom Patek Philippe Nautilus designed by Louis Vuitton Artistic Director appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A week with IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire (Reference IW326802) WatchAdvice
IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire Nov 26, 2019

A week with IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire (Reference IW326802)

Released earlier this year at SIHH 2019, IWC’s latest collection of Spitfire pilots watches all feature for the first – time in-house manufactured calibres. With seven new references ranging from simple time-only functions, all the way to perpetual calendars, 2019 marked a significant year for the brand. Today, we’re taking a look at the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire, in bronze. Just a glance at the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire, and there’s no mistaking this bronze watches heritage, which draws inspiration from the original IWC Mark 11- a definitive Pilot’s watch, with legitimate military provenance. First Impressions If you’re on the hunt for a unique take on the iconic Pilot’s watch and want an in-house movement with impressive power-reserve, look no further. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire is a robust and well-proportioned take on the quintessential military classic. The Case The sandblasted bronze case serves up an interesting texture, and attractive take on bronze. The case is warm with a golden sheen, especially under sunlight, where it becomes quick playful with the light. As you might expect, the bronze case is designed to patina over time, and develop a distinctive look reflecting the owner’s wear pattern. The press piece provided was well worn, having already developed its own unique patina. And being bronze, after just a few weeks of wear, you’ll begin to notice the uniqueness and individuality present itself. The ...

Taking another look at the Rolex Sky-Dweller Rolesor Time+Tide
Rolex Sky-Dweller Rolesor Editor’s note Nov 19, 2019

Taking another look at the Rolex Sky-Dweller Rolesor

Editor’s note: The Rolex Sky-Dweller is an amazing timepiece. No doubt about it. It’s also the epitome of what Rolex does so well - take something exceedingly complicated, like an annual calendar, and then create a simple, novel and ingenious way of not only displaying said complication but how you interact with the watch. Seriously, who … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the Rolex Sky-Dweller Rolesor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The wearer-friendly Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours Time+Tide
Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Oct 8, 2019

VIDEO: The wearer-friendly Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours

On the face of it, Blancpain’s elegant Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours - or, if you don’t parlez vous, Complete Calendar 8 Days - is exactly the sort of thing you’d expect from the dressier family of one of Switzerland’s old marques. But once you get past the numerous traditional points - the day/month apertures, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The wearer-friendly Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.