Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Our 7 Favorite Outdoor Watches – And The Places We'd Like To Take Them
Ideal watch pairings for our fave dive sites, big hikes, cocktails on the beach, and beyond.
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The new IWC Mark XX is a huge upgrade with its new dials and bracelet
Whether or not you are a seasoned collector, every collection needs a staple watch. A watch that excels in its simplicity, its versatility and reliability providing a rock-solid foundation within your collection. For many, the watch of choice to fill that role has been an IWC Mark. Robust, legible and handsome with its military and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Mark XX is a huge upgrade with its new dials and bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Victor Monnin & Alexandre Hazemann – L’Immortale and AH.02
An amazing doublet of school watches made by Victor Monnin & Alexandre Hazemann with a fresh combination of a striking jumping hour watch.
Time+Tide
Up yours! From Bamford and seconde/seconde/, with love
A collaboration between Bamford and Romaric André of seconde/seconde/ feels just perfect, doesn’t it? Bamford made a name for himself by “vandalising” sought-after Rolex models in his signature aqua and black, while seconde/seconde/is renowned for subverting the smallest details of a watch in the most irreverent way possible. Now the pair have finally come together to … ContinuedThe post Up yours! From Bamford and seconde/seconde/, with love appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The ‘do’s and don’ts’ of Octo Finissimo design with Bulgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani
Of all the people we get to interview in my line of work, the most interesting people to sit down with are the watch designers themselves. To hear the philosophy behind a design from the creator, provides key insight into the past, present and future of a collection. Unfortunately, by the time I joined the … ContinuedThe post The ‘do’s and don’ts’ of Octo Finissimo design with Bulgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Watch Expert Calling Out Jake Paul
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Luminox Air Pilot-38 Lightning® 9520 has a dial that will glow without charge for 25 years
The phrase “tool watch” seems a bit laughable to some in a world of smartphones, smartwatches, and a world where luxury steel sports watches cost more than ever. Many of these steel tool watches are now among the most hyped and sought-after references around the world. Also, when you consider some collectors even look into … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Luminox Air Pilot-38 Lightning® 9520 has a dial that will glow without charge for 25 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Unorthodox Sports Watches at Sotheby’s Hong Kong
Following our round up of independent watchmaking highlights at the Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches I auction in Hong Kong, we now turn to something more conventional and even fashionable: high-end sports watches. But naturally we’re not going to run through the unorthodox examples that need no extra publicity (though one “hype” watch might have slipped in). Our selection of a half dozen includes an early Richard Mille and possibly a value buy, a IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition that has an interesting and little known movement. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The RM002-V2 Lot 2161: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus An entirely new collection that debuted just in time for the modern brand’s 25th anniversary, the Odysseus is an outlier for a watchmaker that historically focused on high-end, classical watches. Though the Odysseus sports a design that’s unsurprising for Lange, it is the brand’s first watch with an integrated bracelet. More notably, the Odysseus was the first regular production Lange watch in steel. But we’re not here to talk about the heavily-hyped steel model, instead this is the model in white gold, which arguably offers more value than the steel version at market prices. The integrated-bracelet sports watch arena has long been dominated by the Royal Oak and Nautilus, so what makes the Odysseus a contender? The same characte...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary
Longines hasn’t launched too many watches this year, but it certainly unveiled a hit with the Master Collection 190th Anniversary. Based on the standard (and somewhat mundane) Master automatic, the anniversary edition sticks to a resolutely classical design but executes the dial in a surprisingly elaborate manner. The grained dial has deeply-engraved hour numerals that seem to be hand engraving at a glance, but are naturally done by machine given the affordability of the watch. Combined with the high-tech ETA calibre within, the Master anniversary offers a lot of watch for relatively little money – we explain why. Initial thoughts The Master anniversary struck me as a watch that is easily appealing when I first saw photos. Perhaps too easily appealing, because the design is a combination of familiar, likeable elements. But the dial seemed to be done unusually well, so I thought it was worth a second look. I wasn’t disappointed with the watch in the metal. The design is indeed a mix of details that are widely used elsewhere, but the execution is interesting enough – and the price sufficiently low – to make the Master anniversary an unexpectedly compelling watch. The fact that the Master anniversary is this compelling is testament to the importance of the dial. Everything else about it is identical to the standard 40 mm model. Even at arm’s length the engraved hour numerals are obvious and instantly give the watch the appearance of something fancier (and more exp...
Time+Tide
How I managed to buy the MoonSwatch full set without paying one cent over the retail price
Ronald Chew (aka Horologym) is a watch collector based in Singapore. But he’s also one of the few people in the world who has managed to beat the queues and the flippers to assemble a complete set of the MoonSwatch. What makes this achievement even more impressive is that Ronald didn’t spend big on the … ContinuedThe post How I managed to buy the MoonSwatch full set without paying one cent over the retail price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Watching Movies: Zachary Quinto Predicts The Financial Crisis Wearing A Porsche Design Chronograph In 'Margin Call'
An all-black chrono goes great with impending doom in our watch-related movie of the week.
Video
Detroit Mint Grand Touring Automatic Seiko NH39 Race Inspired Watch Lots of Watch for $200
Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Navitimer: The Ultimate Guide to the Icon of Pilot's Watches
Introduced in 1952, the Breitling Navitimer is the quintessential pilot's chronograph watch as well as one of the most instantly recognizable Swiss watches in the world. Aimed exclusively at professional pilots in its earliest versions, the Navitimer was instrumental in popularizing the pilot's watch genre for the general public, and it remains, in all of its various sizes, colorways, and aesthetic executions, the flagship of Breitling's modern-day collection. Here is the story behind the Breitling Navitimer and how it evolved into an icon of its field, along with an overview of Navitimers on the market today. The First Family of Chronographs (1884) German immigrant Léon Breitling (below, left) founded his eponymous watchmaking firm in Saint-Imier, Switzerland in 1884, devoted to producing precise stopwatches and other timing devices for use in military and industrial fields as well as competitive sports. The rise of both the automobile and the airplane in the early 20th century provided the inspiration for Breitling and his son Gaston, who took over the firm in 1914, to produce a number of historic innovations, several of them patented, that would influence the world of horology going forward. Léon launched one of the first timepieces with an eight-day power reserve in 1893, and a chronograph with an unprecedented ⅖-second accuracy in 1896. Gaston (below, center) is renowned today as the inventor of the first wrist chronograph with an independent pusher, separ...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Craig’s NTTD Sale, a unique Zenith, Showjumping with Longines, and DWW Horology Forum
Just got back from Zermatt last Friday evening, and right upon my return the action was nonstop throughout the week. With a moment to finally catch my breath, I can now catch you all up. The next morning, upon arriving back from Switzerland, Longines invited me out to Governors Island in NYC to watch the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Craig’s NTTD Sale, a unique Zenith, Showjumping with Longines, and DWW Horology Forum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Test your limits with the new Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic
Imagine you’re a watch brand. If you had a 20 year old watch model in your catalogue, what would you do? How would you breathe new life into it so that both fans of the brand, and those you’re trying to attract, feel moved? This is not an easy task and it is one that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Test your limits with the new Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Earth Attacks! The new Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer is ready to blast off for the red planet
The story of the Speedmaster Professional being the Moonwatch has been told a tiring number of times. The story of the Mars Watch however, is much more of a novelty. First released in 1998, the Speedmaster X-33 was designed by Omega in collaboration with the USN Blue Angels and USAF Thunderbirds, and has since seen … ContinuedThe post Earth Attacks! The new Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer is ready to blast off for the red planet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1988 Rolex Day-Date With 'Birch Burlwood' Dial, A 1960s Universal Genève Tri-Compax 'Evil Clapton,' And A 1960s Heuer Carrera '12'
Polarizing as they might be, watch nicknames have an undeniably positive affect on recognizability, icon status, and market appreciation.
Video
NEW Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 - A Cool Watch Tributing an Even Cooler Man
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph is an elevated diver that stands out from the pack
When we think of dive watches, our minds typically wander to Swiss and Japanese creations. But do not sleep on the Germans, they definitely know their way around a dive watch as well. Glashütte Original caught the attention of sports watch enthusiasts looking for something different when they unveiled their SeaQ diver, a revival of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph is an elevated diver that stands out from the pack appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Franck Muller Vanguard Rose Skeleton
Earlier this August, Wei sat down with Franck Muller’s CEO, Nicholas Rudaz, to take a first look at the new Vanguard Rose Skeleton collection. This watch was originally conceived as a special edition for the brand’s Singapore retail partner, Cortina Watch, but now comes in a stunning configuration of black diamonds and champlevé enamel.
Time+Tide
What’s on your wrist? Watchspotting at the DWW Horology Forum New York Edition
This past weekend, Dubai Watch Week bought its Horology Forum to the city of New York. There, over the course of three days, the local watch community was treated to multiple panels, debates, masterclasses in photography and even a few watch clinics. Yet much as this writer enjoyed all the content and experiences, the side … ContinuedThe post What’s on your wrist? Watchspotting at the DWW Horology Forum New York Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue
It’s been six years since Bucherer inaugurated Bucherer Blue, a line of special-edition watches made specifically for the Swiss retailer by watchmakers ranging from Tudor to Audemars Piguet. Dressed in the Bucherer’s corporate colour of dark blue, the Bucherer Blue collection has become one of the retailer’s defining qualities. The latest to join the collection is a sports watch from H. Moser & Cie., the Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue, which features a flying tourbillon on a smoked grey dial framed by a ring of blue sapphires. Initial thoughts Visually simple in the typical Moser style but far from plain, the Streamliner Tourbillon is an attractive watch to begin with. It retains the no-frills look of a sports watch yet while managing to dial up the technical features with a double-hairspring flying tourbillon at six o’clock. The Bucherer Blue edition takes the idea of contrasting simplicity and complexity further with a gem-set bezel that certainly adds sparkle without taking away from the clean lines of the Streamliner. At a distance the bezel might evoke the coloured bezel inserts that are common in sports watches, though up close it is undeniably bling. But the gems blend well into the design as the uniform colour of the stones and graduated, geometric pattern they form both suit the Streamliner aesthetic perfectly. And the dial is a restrained, pale grey – naturally in Moser’s trademark smoked finish – that doesn’t compete with the sapphires...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Mühle-Glashütte S.A.R. Mission-Timer TITAN
Mühle-Glashütte aren’t a brand that most people are very familiar with, but the German brand is always full of surprises at every turn. The S.A.R. Rescue-Timer is a staple of their tool watch collection, boasting seafaring capability alongside a sophisticated, retro-futuristic case shape. Now, after 20 years of its use by the German Maritime Search … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Mühle-Glashütte S.A.R. Mission-Timer TITAN appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro BLUE Limited Edition Sapphire Dial Automatic 600m Dive Watch
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Split In Two
The Men’s is one of the more contentious GPHG categories every year because it is filled with amazing watches that may or may not have much in common but do have distinctive aesthetics. Since that is very subjective, our panel is reminded that the category is essentially asking which watch is the most versatile, wearable, and appeals to the broadest demographic. And, yet, our peanut gallery is divided practically down the middle!
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With Cooper Zelnick, Who Designs The Vintage Watches That Never Existed – But Should've
He's the founder of Cloister Watch Co., and he's joining me on my custom crusade.
Time+Tide
Should you buy a low-end mechanical or a high-end quartz?
Watch shopping on a budget can be extremely frustrating, not least because of watch media outlets like ours that routinely describe watches costing well over $1,000 as “affordable” or “attainable”. The truth is that affordability is all relative, and the lower your budget, the more decisions there are to make. Competition has never been tougher … ContinuedThe post Should you buy a low-end mechanical or a high-end quartz? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The new Bulova Parking Meter delivers that wheel good factor
“I’m going to the archives”. If a movie about the current state of the watch industry were to be released, that would be the main character’s catchphrase. In this last decade, we’ve seen multiple brands go to the creations of their past in search of inspiration for their present. And with such rich histories, who … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Bulova Parking Meter delivers that wheel good factor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Happenings: Dr. Jane Desborough To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The Keeper of Science Collections at the London Science Museum will discuss early clock and watch dials.
Video