Hodinkee
Reading Time At HSNY: Our Original Library
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival is (almost) the Real Vintage Deal
It might come as a surprise to learn that Favre Leuba is the world’s second-oldest watch company. Founded in 1737 by Abraham Favre in Le Locle, the brand reached a high point in the mid-1960s with its rugged purpose-designed tool watches. Now in the hands of industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann, his “revival and renaissance” strategy […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 “Third Series” Black Dial, Breguet Numerals
Sotheby’s upcoming Geneva auction includes Treasures of Time, a small but impressive collection of watches consigned by a European gentleman of evidently sophisticated taste. While the most valuable of the 31 lots in the collection is a first-series ref. 2499 in pink gold, the most striking watch is arguably this Patek Philippe ref. 2499 third series with a glossy black dial featuring Breguet numerals. Only six examples of the ref. 2499 are known to have a black dial, and this is one of them. The black dial with Breguet numerals gives the watch tremendous appeal and presence on the wrist. Beautiful as it is, however, this ref. 2499 is not absolute perfect from a historical perspective as the black dial was added long after the watch was made. The watch was originally sold by Patek Philippe in 1964, probably with the typical silver dial, and it gained this black dial sometime in the 1980s. According to its well documented history, the owner of the watch in the 1980s was an important enough collector that when he asked for a black dial with Breguet numerals, Patek Philippe said yes. The dial was thus produced by Stern Frères and installed in the watch. It’s worth noting that most of the six known ref. 2499s with a black dial have a similar history in that the black dials were subsequent additions. Though it’s clearly not a vintage dial, Stern Frères executed it well. The dial is finished with a glossy black lacquer and gold powder print, while the indices are applie...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype
One of the most significant examples of contemporary watchmaking, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” will soon go on the block at Phillips. Consigned by the estate of the original owner – meaning it’s a one-owner watch for over three decades – the “15/93” prototype carries within it the magic of independent watchmaking to a degree that rivals the landmark timepieces like the George Daniels Space Traveller’s Watch. The history of this tourbillon is well known: it is the second wristwatch made by François-Paul Journe, and the first one he sold. In early 1992 he sold it to a Parisian collector for a price that in hindsight is profoundly ridiculous, but was probably an extraordinary price to pay for a watch like this at the time. The gentleman who bought it owned it for some 32 years and clearly wore it often. There is no doubt he understood what the watch represented, even years ago before it was valuable, because he retained all of the original documentation that came with the watch, including copies of the technical plans. To the late original owner of this watch: you have my respect and admiration. “Prototype” Although I describe this as a prototype, it more accurately one specimen of a small series of hand-made watches. This series formed the template for the later Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité that was produced on a larger scale, albeit only numbering in the dozens, initially by hand and then with more industrial met...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Fleux FLX003
Search for “vintage watch” on Kickstarter and you’ll be met with page after page of watches that seek to capture the charm of watches from decades past. Some will be near-replicas that look more like carbon copies than modern interpretations. Others will find a balance of paying homage to iconic designs while still maintaining an air of originality. While the approaches vary, vintage inspired designs remain pervasive – they’re just about everywhere. Last year, Toronto based Fleux joined the ranks of brands crowdfunding their vintage inspired freshman releases with the FLX001 and FLX002– taking the amalgamation route by drawing inspiration from a variety of classic skin divers. The FLX001 featured chunky lume plots and a blocky orange hour hand that brought to mind images of Squale and Vulcain. The FLX002 featured a California dial, a layout of half Roman and half Arabic numerals that was popularized by brands like Rolex and Panerai. Changing gears to pay homage to a single watch rather than a genre, the FLX003 unapologetically draws its inspiration from the Omega Seamaster 300 Big Triangle- also known as the “Big T”. The Watch Lets address the elephant in the room: When considering a $500 NH38 powered Omega inspired dive watch, it’s fair to ask how it differs from the other Omega-inspired designs on the market. Afterall, a 200 meter, Seiko powered watch from Pagani Design can be yours for about $100. I’ve personally owned (and worn with pride) many of t...
Deployant
New Video: Chopard x Sincere x Deployant Watchmaking Masterclass
We collaborated with Chopard and Sincere Fine Watches to conduct a Watchmaking Masterclass. Here is a wristcheck and quickfire interviews of attendees.
Monochrome
Introducing - A Graceful Silver-Spangled Horse for the new Hermès Arceau Robe Légère
Hermès is often called the “Maison that speaks with its hands,” and for good reason. With a focus on handmade luxury products and a team of highly skilled artisans, Hermès never ceases to delight. To keep the creative juices flowing and its products fresh, Hermès often invites artists from outside. The latest Arceau Robe Légère […]
Fratello
Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916
During Geneva Watch Days 2024, Gerald Charles announced the exclusive Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916 created in collaboration with Italian motorcycle manufacturer Ducati. The watch celebrates the 30th anniversary of the legendary Ducati 916 motorcycle. It features Gerald Charles’s well-known Maestro case with a ruby-red vulcanized rubber strap for the occasion. Gerald Charles Maestro […] Visit Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916 to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 Review
I enjoy a good retro-revival, but I especially love it when it’s a super-niche piece like the Girard-Perregaux Casquette. First introduced back in the 1970s, the very cool Casquette was brought back in 2022 in the form of the Casquette 2.0. According to GP, something like 8,000 examples of the original Casquette were produced between 1976 and 1978. That unique driver-style case with LED display was basically unchanged for the 2.0, which came in a slick, black ceramic case. Now, we see the release of a new Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 Titanium and Gold, which I was able to get my hands on and spend some time with. Luxury digital watches are few and far between but I have to say, there is nothing like the Casquette out there. As someone who has seen and handled just about every watch out there, I personally would rather plunk down just shy of five grand on this digital watch over many, many mechanical pieces in that price range. Where the inaugural Casquette 2.0 was done in a black ceramic and bracelet, this new iteration opts for a Grade 5 titanium case with yellow-gold GP logo and pushers and a matching titanium bracelet with rubber lining. It is absolutely insane to see this level of quality and finishing on an LED-display watch, but it sparks so much joy in my heart to see a brand have the guts to do so. The case dimensions are spot-on for a piece that needs some wrist presence to properly convey its vibes. The sleek, angular case measures 42.4mm tall and 33.6mm wi...
Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT with Flying Tourbillon: Lightning Fast Monopusher Chronograph using Minimal Energy in a Very Wearable 38mm Case
A foudroyante hand is visually spectacular as it is running faster than the eye can follow – foudroyante is French for lightning fast! But the complication uses a lot of energy, or did until the Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT.
Monochrome
Introducing - The new Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi
In 2019, Ulysse Nardin introduced the Freak X, an entry-level to the innovative and convention-breaking Freak series, maintaining the brand’s “no-dial, no-hands” design, showcasing its signature flying carousel construction within the newly developed UN 230 movement. Though simpler than the original Freak and featuring a crown, the Freak X retained the DNA of its iconic […]
Fratello
IFL Watches Introduces The Tissot PRX Arabian Night Concept Limited Edition
IFL Watches keeps surprising us with creative new artwork gracing the dials of watches from various makers. With the Stockholm-based brand’s newest customized dial, we are transported to the world of Arabian Nights. The canvas for this creative journey is the black-dial version of the quartz Tissot PRX. It forms the perfect backdrop for IFLW’s […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Tissot PRX Arabian Night Concept Limited Edition to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Biver Reveals Unique Automatique for Charity
Although it’s been less than two years since its founding, Biver has already launched its second model, the Automatique. Using that as the base, the brand created the Automatique “Echoes of this Moment”, a unique piece crafted in collaboration with a Swiss artist for TimeForArt, a charity auction taking place in November to benefit the Swiss Institute, a nonprofit focused on contemporary art education. Initial thoughts The standard Automatique is undeniably a finely executed watch, especially the micro-rotor automatic calibre within. Although the aesthetics of the regular-production model aren’t perfectly cohesive, the exquisite quality of the movement and attention to detail make it one of the most interesting new time-only creations from an independent. This unique piece improves the aesthetics of the Automatique because it simplifies the design. The standard version has an elaborately finished dial that combines too many elements – faceted indices, brushed sectors, an engraved seconds track, and sharp polished hands. In contrast, the unique Automatique keeps the look simple, while still having a complex, artisanal dial decoration. Here the handmade dial – that’s both engraved and enamelled – can be admired for what it is, with no distractions. An artful dial The New York-based Swiss Institute was set up to promote contemporary art through events and exhibitions. Now in its second edition, TimeForArt was conceived to benefit the non-profit. Biver is one o...
Fratello
Hands-On: The Dennison ALD Stone Dials Collection
Over the past year, I’ve collected watches from the ’40s and ’50s. Watches with Dennison cases are impossible to avoid when focusing on this early period. The Birmingham, England-based company was a notable case maker for Omega, Longines, and more until its closure in 1967. Today, the name returns with a very different set of […] Visit Hands-On: The Dennison ALD Stone Dials Collection to read the full article.
Deployant
Roger Dubuis: Watchmaker Like No Other - a new exhibition on the maison’s superb patrimony
Sneak peek at a new exhibition to showcase the Roger Dubuis - "Watchmaker Like No Other" at the Penthouse of the Artyzen Singapore.
Fratello
Introducing: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC953 European Limited Edition
Around this time two years ago, Seiko introduced its first trio of Speedtimer Solar Chronograph models. The series combines vintage-inspired looks with modern technology at an affordable price, making it a tempting proposition that many watch enthusiasts embraced. Since then, the line has been slowly expanding with variations in different sizes and colorways. The newest […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC953 European Limited Edition to read the full article.
Time+Tide
How Timex has sold $1 watches for 170 years
There have been plenty of ups and downs in the history of Timex, and its recent $1 watch release bookends them all perfectly. The post How Timex has sold $1 watches for 170 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1
Last week, two dress-watch giants presented new versions of existing watches in their collections. First, A. Lange & Söhne showed us four new references of the Lange 1 to celebrate the model’s 30th anniversary. Then, Breguet presented us with a new platinum version of both the Classique 5177 and 7787. So, for this week’s Sunday […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Nerds Gummy Clusters Have their Moment, the Best Pizza in NYC, and the New Universal Geneve Website
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. Important Candy Journalism Today is November 2, which means Halloween week has just come to a conclusion, which in turn means that the internet was full of stories about all manner of candy. It happens every year, and as the sugar fiends that we are, it’s always fun to see what colorful or chocolaty treats are dominating the public consciousness during candy’s big moment. Last week, a story in the New York Times about Nerds Gummy Clusters caught our eye. The candy is a viral sensation on social media, and is credited with reviving the Nerds brand. There was even a Super Bowl commercial for the uniquely crunchy gummy candy this year, and another is planned for 2025. It’s no wonder the Gummy Clusters have caught on – they are uniquely photogenic, and part of the fun of this article is the view into how they are made. Doesn’t it seem like a fun job to be in charge of making the Gummy Clusters? Also, Pizza Journalism While last week may have belonged to candy, pizza is always at front of mind for most of us. Also in the New York Times recently, this piece on the 25 best p...
Deployant
New: Tudor PELAGOS FXD GMT “Zulu Time”
The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT "Zulu Time" has been a significant addition to the brand's lineup, offering a blend of robust functionality and a design that pays homage to its military heritage. The watch is a result of Tudor's collaboration with the French Naval Aviation, designed to meet the rigorous demands of naval pilots.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner - This Quirky Little Fiat Panda Cabriolet is Cooler (and More Practical) than any Ferrari….
Europe has a rich history of small cars designed to bring mobility to the masses. This started shortly after WWII when supplies were short and funds were pretty much non-existent. However, people wanted, no, needed a cheap and simple form of transport to get from A to B and back again. The answer was the so-called […]
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands-On With Seiko’s Latest Prospex Alpinist Australasia Limited Edition
The Seiko Prospex Alpinist Australasia Limited Edition combines rugged functionality with a distinctive design, featuring a dial inspired by the Australian landscape! What We Love: The polished finishing of the case and bezel The red dial has many different layers to it with different patterns and finishing techniques. Great value for money, especially with the increase in power reserve with 6R35 movement and open case back. What We Don’t: The leather strap can be a bit stiff initially Lack of a steel bracelet option for the watch Cyclops date window could be slightly larger to allow for better viewing angles. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Seiko Alpinist is a timepiece that has gained global recognition for meeting the needs of adventurers. The timepiece has long held a special place in Seiko’s lineup, and it is well known for meeting the needs of mountain climbers and outdoor sports enthusiasts. The Seiko Alpinist was first introduced in 1959, and back then, it was the brand’s first attempt at creating a timepiece specifically designed for mountaineers. During the 1960s and 70s, Japan’s hiking culture was thriving. So Seiko responded by creating a beautiful timepiece that considered what an adventurer’s watch would entail. The timepiece was designed to endure the harsh conditions while still being stylistic! The first Seiko Alpinist released in 1959 was named Laurel Alpinist. The very fi...
Fratello
Restoring The Seiko 5 That Accompanied Me Across Asia
Seiko 5 is a watch line synonymous with entering the watch hobby. It is full of reliable, affordable, and rugged automatic watches. They’re the epitome of what makes Seiko one of the most significant watch manufacturers in the world and have long been a default choice for an entry-level mechanical timepiece. My first mechanical watch […] Visit Restoring The Seiko 5 That Accompanied Me Across Asia to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Rolex Explorer With RAF Provenance, A Scroll Lug Patek Calatrava, And A 'Geezer' Audemars Piguet
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Worn & Wound
The Best Beginner Field Watches Under $500
Born in the crucible of the Great War, the modern field watch has come to be prized for its simplicity, legibility, and durability by watch enthusiasts. Its definition was codified by governments urgently needing accurate and reliable timepieces to issue to their militaries during the Second World War, with the watches becoming characterized by their well-proportioned, durable cases, legible dials, luminous hands and markers, and base-level water resistance to withstand whatever they encounter in the field. Perfect for a day out or a day in the office, their rugged versatility makes them a natural touch point for both beginner and experienced collectors alike. In today’s Chronicle, we’re looking at ten of our favorite field watches under $500. Let’s dive in. Should you see anything you like, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post The Best Beginner Field Watches Under $500 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Milgauss Models
Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at the Rolex Milgauss, the oddball engineer’s watch that first came out in the 1950s, just like many of The Crown’s classics. But unlike the Submariner and the GMT-Master, the Milgauss hasn’t always been part of the brand’s collection since then. It’s part of the reason we […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Milgauss Models to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces a Commemorative Carrera Tourbillon in Tribute to Ayrton Senna
TAG Heuer is introducing a third generation of the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in collaboration with the Senna brand, a commemorative company dedicated to the late Ayrton Senna’s legendary career as three time Grand Prix world champion. Senna’s racing legacy is intertwined with the watch world and has always conjured images of the TAG Heuer 6000 Senna Limited Edition in the minds of collectors. This was the very first watch that Ayrton produced together with TAG Heuer, and he was still with us at the beginning of its conception to have a say in its design. In 2018 TAG Heuer released the first Carrera chronograph tourbillon editions, followed by another iteration in 2019. While many of us are quite fond of the original designs that feature a very distinct era specific aesthetic, such as small case sizes with heavily rounded edges, these new models are extremely modern in contrast. Launching today is the reference CBU5081.FT6274 – a serious chronograph watch with a grade 2 titanium case, ceramic tachymeter bezel that can measure up to 400 kmh, and a display of TAG Heuer watchmaking prowess in the form of a tourbillon at 6 o’clock. It doesn’t get much more contemporary sporty than a watch like this, using cutting edge materials and high horology watchmaking techniques such as its fully skeletonized dial and the tourbillon itself. The yellow, blue, and green accents each have their spot around the dial of the watch, aiding in reading the elapsed time of the ch...
Time+Tide
Citizen celebrates its 100th anniversary with a particularly elevated ‘The Citizen’ limited edition
Citizen marks the 100th anniversary of the first Citizen-branded watch with a luxe and very Japanese timepiece.The post Citizen celebrates its 100th anniversary with a particularly elevated ‘The Citizen’ limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look - The Sporty-Chic Briston Clubmaster Legend Diver and Clubmaster Legend Small Second
Briston is an independent French brand created in 2012. It was founded by industry veteran, Brice Jaunet, who worked with different brands, including Cartier, Baume & Mercier, Raymond Weil and Zenith. Briston offers accessible, sporty-chic watches with a twist. The brand’s quirky designs rely on a cushion-shaped case with the Clubmaster collection, while another of […]
Fratello
Hands-On: The New Awake Sơn Mài Collection Makes Métiers d’Art Accessible To All
Last month, I met Lilian Thibault, the founder of Awake Watches, at an event in London. We’re used to the brand’s sporty, frequently space-themed limited editions. However, I saw an upcoming release that was very different. The new Sơn Mài collection brings two forms of Métiers d’Art together in an affordable package. Since its launch […] Visit Hands-On: The New Awake Sơn Mài Collection Makes Métiers d’Art Accessible To All to read the full article.