Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1960s Rolex Wall Clock, A 1963 Omega Seamaster For The Pakistan Air Force, And A 1950s Audemars Piguet
Spanning the gamut from a wall clock to an elegant dress watch – this week's Vintage collection delivers.
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Hands On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Chronograph
Louis Vuitton is now in its 20th year as a watchmaker. In that time it has gone from basic, ETA-powered watches to a variety of impressive complications, including its signature Spin Time, and even a minute repeater with automaton. To mark the occasion, Louis Vuitton (LV) has just announced the Tambour Twenty Chronograph, a remake modelled on the brand’s first serious mechanical timepiece. The two-decade journey has seen LV’s watchmaking division evolve from a shared space inside TAG Heuer’s factory to its own expansive facility in Geneva that includes not only a complications workshop but also its own dial-making facility. While LV does make some of its own movements now, the Tambour Twenty is a nod to its origins as a watchmaker. The 200-piece limited edition is modelled on the Tambour LV277 of 2003, the brand’s first chronograph that was powered by the Zenith El Primero. Initial thoughts Despite its odd proportions – a big case with tall, sloping sides and narrow lugs – the Tambour case is attractive in my eyes. And it’s distinctive and recognisable although its form is fairly simple. In short, it’s a successful design. The Tambour works especially well with complications since that gives its size – especially its thickness – a sense of purpose. Ordinarily I am not a fan of brown dials, but this is one of the few dials in the colour that looks good. LV executes its dials well – most of them are made in-house – and the reflective metallic brown o...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Olto-8 Infinity II is a high-octane extravaganza of a watch
For those who buy watches to wear in different situations, what context best suits the Olto-8 Infinity II? It could be in the seat of a race car, or even on the wrist of Tony Stark. Truthfully, the Olto-8 Infinity II wants to be worn anywhere, bringing it’s own high-octane energy into the dullest of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Olto-8 Infinity II is a high-octane extravaganza of a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Norqain impresses with the new Adventure Sport 37mm Limited Edition
Norqain has become one of those brands that is synonymous with adventure. From tackling the great outdoors to becoming at one with mother nature. Yet, as other brands interpret adventure differently for men and ladies (often creating a dumbed down version of a more adequate watch), Norqain breaks the mold. They continue to highlight what … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Norqain impresses with the new Adventure Sport 37mm Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Czapek & Cie Antarctique Frozen Star S: Featuring A Scintillating (And Ultra-Rare) Osmium Dial
Osmium is so rare and dense, has such a high melting point, and is so hard to form or compress that it has very few practical uses. But earlier this year Czapek & Cie released the limited edition Antarctique Frozen Star S with an absolutely mind-blowing dial made of pure osmium crystals.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty celebrates two decades of banging the drum
Luxury watches sold by fashion brands will always be fighting an uphill battle to be taken seriously by elitist watch enthusiasts, but after two decades the Louis Vuitton Tambour range has definitely made more than enough compelling arguments for its legitimacy. Between the Tambour Spin Time, the Spin Time Air Quantum, and the artisanal-focused Tambour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty celebrates two decades of banging the drum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The George Daniels Spring Case Tourbillon Is The Most Important Watch Of The Auction Season
It's up for grabs at Phillips this November. Here's what you need to know about this highly significant George Daniels timekeeper.
Time+Tide
Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Dom Toretto joins the Diesel family
Editor’s Note: When Nicolas Cage recently gushed over his Grand Seiko on the red carpet, many of you in the comments noted how he should become an ambassador for the brand – and we agreed it would definitely be a fun pairing. This then got us thinking what other ambassador match-ups we would want to see. … ContinuedThe post Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Dom Toretto joins the Diesel family appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Spec Sheet: The Radiomir PAM210 Is The Watch Of Panerai Past And Present
And maybe the future, too? You be the judge after watching this 60-second video on a modern icon.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1975 is a diver that’s playful yet refined and costs under $300
While the last few releases from Dan Henry have focused on the post-WWI era of military chronographs, the micro-turned-major brand return to a more lighthearted spirit with their most “modern” watch so far - the Dan Henry 1975. While the concept of a diving watch rose throughout the 1950s and was popularised in the 1960s, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1975 is a diver that’s playful yet refined and costs under $300 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: We have the new Tudor Pelagos 39 in our hand!
You know that thought experiment you do at night when you’re trying to get to sleep? The one where you’re trying to design a hybrid watch with all your favourite details – not too big, not too heavy, no date window, not too extortionately priced, decent water resistance and so on and so forth? Well, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: We have the new Tudor Pelagos 39 in our hand! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
2022 Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph Hands-on review
What we like: Dial design is a real head turner Beautiful bracelet with mirror finishGreat price point for a Swiss chronograph What we don’t like: Some may not like the thickness of the watch Scatches will show up easily on the bracelet The watch can wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches Overall rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/ 10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 One of the most anticipated watches in 2022 has just been released, and Watchadvice has been given a chance to do a full in-depth review of it. The Tissot PRX Chronograph is the latest addition to the ever-popular Tissot PRX collection released last year. The Tissot PRX was a revamp of the original PRX created in 1978. Back then, Tissot released the PRX in an emblematic design with an integrated case and bracelet. The model stood out for its timeless design and sleek slender appearance. Unlike this modern reinterpretation, the original model came in various dial colours and different case shapes. The original Tissot PRX never had a chance to be in the limelight, as the model was released when Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak in 1972 and Patek Philippe released the Nautilus in 1976. Now, however, I feel like the Tissot PRX (40 205) is getting the undivided attention it deserves. The latest Tissot PRX is a much-loved timepiece upon its release, with watch fanatics jumping on the bandwagon to get their hands on this piece. While the Tissot PRX is a fantastic watch an...
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Pelagos 39
In a perhaps unsurprising but very much a welcome move, Tudor has just taken the covers off the Pelagos 39, a scaled-down and slightly dressed up version of its “professional” diver’s watch. Rated to 200 m and just 11.8 mm tall, the Pelagos 39 is essentially a condensed version of its bigger brother. Initial thoughts No doubt in response to feedback, Tudor has been steadily trimming the sizes of its key models. The brand has preserved the key technical features of the watches while reducing the case diameter, dialling back on the chunkiness of its first-generation models. The Black Bay Pro was a smaller GMT and a few months later the Pelagos 39 arrives as the smaller “pro” diver. Besides the smaller diameter, the new Pelagos is also thinner, so it will no doubt be more easily wearable on an everyday basis than its 42 mm counterpart. Wearability aside, the Pelagos 39 is evidently caters to enthusiasts in other ways. It has a symmetrical dial with no date display, while the text above six include a single line in red. It’s difficult not to like the Pelagos 39. The Pelagos 39 also has subtle changes to the dial and bezel finish that differentiate it from the larger models. The brushed finish on those components give it a little bit more shine, avoiding the muted, functional appearance of the earlier Pelagos watches. As is typical for Tudor, the Pelagos 39 is priced at just US$4,400. Considering its build quality and movement, that ranks it amongst the best in cla...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Czapek unveils reworked SXH1 calibre in two new Quai des Bergues watches
While conglomerate brands from groups like Swatch and LVMH have a large presence, arguably the sector of watchmaking that is drawing the most interest from collectors these days are the independents. Therefore, these brands really have to standout with their products, and they typically do so with novelties that embody the best of horological craftsmanship. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Czapek unveils reworked SXH1 calibre in two new Quai des Bergues watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Jacob & Co redesigns their Epic X
For Geneva Watch Week 2022, Jacob & Co released a new Epic X, redesigned for a more stronger and even more sporty look than the original.
Quill & Pad
Zenith Ambassador And Supercoach Patrick Mouratoglou: ‘Little Details Make Big Differences’
Patrick Mouratoglou morphed from a frustrated player in his teens into today’s perennial supercoach; he is able to deal with the highly complicated psyche and game of an elite competitor just the way a horologist is qualified to finetune a supercomplication. And he is a Zenith ambassador. Learn all about him here thanks to tennis and timepiece writer Miguel Seabra!
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Balancier Convexe
Having made its debut in Greubel Forsey’s watches a decade ago, the world time is one of the brand’s distinctive complications with its large titanium globe. While the original iteration of the world time wristwatch came to an end last year with the all-black final edition, Greubel Forsey has taken the covers off its successor, the GMT Balancier Convexe. The three-dimensional world time sphere has been retained, but almost all else has been redesigned on the new model. Beside adopting the streamlined aesthetics of the brand’s bestselling sports watches like the Balancier S2, the display now has local and world time arranged concentrically in a traditional, Louis Cottier-style display in a first for the brand. Initial thoughts Despite its complex looks and US$400,000 price tag, the GMT Balancier Convexe is relatively simple for a Greubel Forsey. In fact, it’s the brand’s first world time watch without a tourbillon. As a result, the new GMT is as much about design as mechanics. The GMT demonstrates how GF is implementing its sports watch styling across practically all of its line-up. The GMT has a streamlined “Convexe” case and does away with the asymmetrical bulge traditionally used to accommodate the globe. Because of its curved profile and hidden lugs, Convexe case allows the GMT to pass as a moderately sized watch despite being 46.5 mm in diameter, allowing it to wear smaller. To go along with the sporty case style, the dial has been given a new look. ...
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The retro thrills of the Doxa Army are back in full production
When Doxa released a ceramic limited edition of their legendary Army watch with Watches of Switzerland, we all knew it would be a matter of time before this thrilling design would be made available to the masses. While it’s expected that some production models will modernise reissues to some extent, the Doxa Army offers the … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The retro thrills of the Doxa Army are back in full production appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Julian Michaels’ new releases show the value of breathing space and balance
It’s getting harder and harder to stand out as a microbrand as dozens seem to pop up every week, but the most distinctive examples are always something special. Julian Michaels are the latest brand to forge an individual identity, but they do so without the need for any gimmicks or garish novelties. Instead, Julian Michaels … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Julian Michaels’ new releases show the value of breathing space and balance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The hunt for unsung vintage treasure: Neil Armstrong’s watch, but not the one you think
Neil Armstrong's watch of choice is widely known to be the Omega Speedmaster Professional.The post The hunt for unsung vintage treasure: Neil Armstrong’s watch, but not the one you think appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200?
Resale value is a can of worms like no other, turning the discussion of wristwatches from a matter of taste into an investments debate. On one end of the spectrum are people who are happy to buy watches at their retail price, because they’ve got no plans to sell them as soon as they’re paid … ContinuedThe post How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The organic designs of Issey Miyake watches - a tribute
This edition of Fits and Ticks is dedicated to the late visionary that was Issey Miyake, a truly multi-faceted designer. With his clothing on the forefront of technology-inspired designs through his famous lines such as Pleats Please, Homme Plisse, Bao Bao and, of course, his eponymous main collection line, Issey Miyake carved a legacy that … ContinuedThe post The organic designs of Issey Miyake watches – a tribute appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Looking back at how Hublot came back with a bang at Watches & Wonders
Editor’s Note: We’re not going to pretend that Hublot is for everyone – their designs are far too bold and ambitious for that. But any watch lover will always get a kick out of the brand’s new releases which – whether they involve material innovation or unexpected collabs – always demand horological attention. Here’s another look … ContinuedThe post Looking back at how Hublot came back with a bang at Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #19 “Handsets”
Fully back in the saddle, after a brief vacation hiatus we are back with another crossword for you to tackle. While perhaps not among the top of the list in regard to glamorous watch components, hands are crucial for conveying various indications on a dial (even a movement in certain cases). So, let’s test your … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #19 “Handsets” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The top 5 Doxa limited editions
Doxa are a legend among revived Swiss watch brands, with a rich back catalogue of products to pull from that maintain an intense cult following. Their quirky designs are full of vintage flair and mystique, yet they’ve also proven themselves to be trailblazers in modern trends such as carbon fibre construction and refurbished movements. While … ContinuedThe post The top 5 Doxa limited editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Best Seiko 5 Sports Watches
The Seiko 5 watch series traces its roots all the way back to 1963, when the Japanese mega-brand introduced the original Seiko Sportsmatic 5, a groundbreaking timepiece that ushered in the emblematic “five attributes” that define the vast collection today. These include automatic movements, day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case and bracelet made of durable materials. Stylistically, the watches run the gamut from dress pieces to field watches to divers, with all kinds of variations in between (the current shorthand descriptions are Sense, Specialist, Sports, Suits, and Street). Seiko 5 watches still adhere to those five principles initially laid out more than half a century ago while still retaining the famously inexpensive price points that have made them so desirable - from under $100 to the neighborhood of $500 for the more exclusive editions. Seiko 5 watches - rebranded in the collection’s relaunch in 2019 as Seiko 5 Sports, despite offering this diversity of styles - have a worldwide fan following, with many JDM (Japan Direct Market) models highly sought after by American collectors due to their scarcity. And for many a budding watch collector of modest means, a Seiko 5 watch is the gateway drug to a full-blown timepiece obsession. Here we spotlight some of our favorites. SRPC65 “Bottlecap” Reference: SRPC65, Price: $150-$250, Case Size: 45mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Lug-to-L...
Time+Tide
A deep dive into the Tissot PRX Chronograph with the man who made it happen
We chat with Tissot CEO Sylvain Dolla, and find out exactly how the PRX Chronograph came to be.The post A deep dive into the Tissot PRX Chronograph with the man who made it happen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack
Debuted just two years ago, the Streamliner was Moser’s first try at an integrated-bracelet sports watch and it was a success. With its distinctive case and bracelet, the Streamliner is very much a watch that caters to the tastes of today, which has unsurprisingly made it the brand’s bestseller. The latest in the line up, however, is a change in tone. With a dial that’s minimalist as usual, the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack is unabashedly extravagant in 18k red gold from end to end, putting it in stark contrast with the uniformly steel Streamliners that came before. Initial thoughts The best part of the latest Streamliner is its design, which manages to blend several elements in a coherent manner: luxury, mechanical complexity, and of course simplicity. With this new launch, the Streamliner is finally available in gold. While all past models were in steel, the Streamliner Tourbillon is surprisingly attractive despite being so different. In fact, the case and bracelet are arguably made even more compelling in precious metal, since the material lends the watch both heft and elegance, while the glow of the rosy metal brings out the surface finish. In contrast to the extravagant case and bracelet, the dial is spare and contrasts well against the gold case. Coated in Vantablack, an ultra-black substance, the dial is sparsely furnished with plain hour markers and no minute track, making it the simplest amongst the Streamliner collection. That said, the rounded hands a...
SJX Watches
S.U.F. Helsinki Debuts Limited Edition for Finnish Formula 1 Driver
Finnish through and through, Sarpaneva and its affordable sub-line S.U.F. Helsinki often turn to their native land for inspiration, as with the glow-in-the-dark Gothic fantasy of the recent Nocturne. Now S.U.F. is celebrating Valtteri Bottas, a Formula 1 driver nickname the “Flying Finn” who now races for Alfa Romeo. The S.U.F Flying Finn is a pair of limited editions created in collaboration with Mr Bottas. The first is the VB77 in red and white that’s named after the driver’s car number, while the second is the FF-S dressed in white and silver. Both share a partially open dial that’s a first for an S.U.F. wristwatch. FF-S Initial thoughts I’m not generally a fan of watches with racing stripes – and I didn’t warm up to earlier S.U.F watches with stripes – but the Flying Finn aesthetic works. In fact, it’s one of the few watches with an exaggerated racing look that works. The red-and-blue VF77 with its DLC-coated case is especially striking. Mr Bottas with the VB77 The success of the design perhaps because of the partially-open dial along with the “bottle cap” bezel. And the tangible features of the watch also helps. Both models have the typical S.U.F. appeal, namely a highly quality case and well-made dial, along with an affordable price tag. That’s relative, however, as the Flying Finn editions cost about double the entry-level 180 from S.U.F. that contains the same movement but inside a simpler case with a plainer dial. VB77 FF-S Racing time B...
SJX Watches
Breguet Facelifts the Classique Calendrier 7337
One of the longest-lived models in Breguet’s line-up, the Classique Calendrier 7337 has been in the catalogue since the 1980s before being revamped in 2009 to give the model its current proportions. Now Breguet has given the 7337 a gentle cosmetic makeover with a redesigned dial. Despite changing none of the fundamentals, the new dial gives the 7337 a distinctly different look that is amongst the most modern in the brand’s Classique collection. Initial thoughts The new 7337 modernises a longstanding model in Breguet’s lineup, one that was originally inspired by pocket watches the brand made in the 19th century. The redesign certainly succeeds in giving the 7337 a more contemporary flavour, so anyone who finds the original design overly old fashioned will appreciate the facelift. However, the new look loses some of the classical elegance that defines Breguet in my opinion. And it also loses the quirky elegance that was characteristic of the original dial layout. Design aside, the new 7337 is very much identical to the earlier model in terms of movement and construction, which means the quality is excellent, as is typical of Breguet. Considering the quality of build, materials – the guilloche dial for instance is solid gold – and the historically-significant brand name, the new 7337 is a reasonably priced proposition at US$43,000, which is identical to the earlier version and unchanged for several years. Breguet pocket watch no. 3833, c. 1823 Symmetrical, mostly De...