Hodinkee
Reading Time at HSNY: Booked and Busy in 2024
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
The Longines Conquest Heritage in Red Dégradé
Ordinarily a faithful vintage remake with an old-school aesthetic, the Conquest Heritage gets a makeover for the Chinese Lunar New Year. The Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake stands out with a striking red gradient dial featuring gold-plated hands and indices. And for the occasion, the back bears an engraved snake motif penned by Chinese contemporary artist Wu Jian’an, who drew inspiration from the ancient Chinese fable, “Legend of the White Snake”. Initial thoughts The Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake offers something more modern and striking, instead of the conservative look of the standard model that has a silver or black dial. I particularly like the fact that the snake motif is limited to an engraving on the case back, as having it on the dial would have been overly ornate. It’s priced at US$3,150, almost exactly the same as the regular production model, which makes it a decent value proposition. It has a workmanlike quality appropriate for the price, while the high-spec ETA movement inside is one of its strengths. And like other zodiac-theme watches, this would have resonance for those born in the Year of the Snake a meaningful way to commemorate the occasion, not unlike wearing a birthstone. Vintage inspired The snake edition is identical to the standard model save for the dial and case back engraving. Water resistant to 50 m, the stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter, 10.7 mm in thickness, and entirely polished. It’s slightly larger than the ori...
Monochrome
First Look - The Bright and Colourful New Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph POP Collection
Presented in 2024, the Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph is a modern reinterpretation of one of the brand’s 1960’s models, the Faux Chronographe, a simplified and affordable take on the chronograph watch. Produced in large quantities, it allowed users to measure short time intervals by initiating and halting the independent central seconds hand. If the modern […]
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Reflecting On 2024
We’re finally back with another episode of Fratello On Air after a lengthy break from the holidays, illness, and travel! This week, we’re reflecting on 2024 and some key events that shaped the year. Enjoy the episode, and we look forward to 2025! For our listeners, the watch content begins after 27 minutes. This podcast […] Visit Fratello On Air: Reflecting On 2024 to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Longines Trolls Us With A $5,000 ‘Dive’ Watch Featuring a Fixed Bezel: The Ultra-Chron Carbon
Let me set the stage for you: somewhere in Switzerland, a Longines executive is sitting in a leather chair, sipping espresso, and staring out over the Alps. “What if,” they muse, “we take a perfectly good dive watch, strip it of its most basic functionality, make it out of fancy plastic, and charge five grand for it?” Cue applause from the boardroom, a slow clap from a guy in a turtleneck, and voilà-the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon is born.
SJX Watches
Editorial: Reflections on Peter Speake’s Return
I was happy to see Peter Speake return with PS Horology and the Tsuba. Peter was one of the first independent watchmakers I got to know well on a personal basis, and I have followed his career for almost two decades now. I first met Peter sometime in 2005, either at Baselworld (it was my first time there) or in Singapore during his regular round-the-world tours. He was then a fresh face in independent watchmaking, having just founded his brand Speake-Marin in 2002. In the context of the period, when independent watchmaking was a truly niche segment, Peter was a star (although he is modest enough he might disagree). Founded by Peter and Daniela Marin, who were then married, Speake-Marin was a promising brand with many of the ingredients for success, including a strong aesthetic (thick, chunky, and ETA-based but I liked it), good watchmaking and quality thanks to Peter’s own skill, and of course Peter himself – the personality is as important as the product in independent watchmaking. The unique Majestic Monkey of 2008, one of the first custom Speake-Marin watches I saw in person Peter was not the only watchmaker I met around that time, but I got to know him better than most other indie watchmakers, as a result of an annual watch fair that took place in Kuala Lumpur, the Malaysian capital. Known as A Journey Through Time (AJTT), the watch fair was staged by YTL Corporation, a Malaysian conglomerate with diversified interests ranging from power generation to luxury shoppi...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph
Spending some time with one of my favorite releases from last year.
Worn & Wound
Collecting: Why I Chose the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé
Since I picked up the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé in the fall of last year, I’ve been meaning to write something about it. It’s an incredible watch, probably the best I’ve owned, and I feel lucky to have it. That’s a strange thing to say, I know. I’m sure Zeitwinkel would happily sell this watch to anyone who was willing to provide the agreed upon amount of money – luck doesn’t really have that much to do with it. But there are things about this watch that are special and set it apart from other watchers I’ve owned that make having it in my watch box and on my wrist a unique pleasure. This isn’t an owner’s review, because what I really want to talk about with respect to the 273° aren’t the specs, or the finishing, or even the experience of wearing it (all are great, by the way). What I want to talk about is the strange route I took to focusing on Zeitwinkel and picking the 273°. It echoes, I think, the piece I wrote at the end of last year for our “My Year in Watches” series, where I talked about a renewed focus on independent brands. Zeitwinkel is about as independent as it gets, and that’s a big reason why this watch resonates with me – it reflects the very specific interests of the brand founders, and represents a certain no-compromises approach to watchmaking that can’t easily be found with brands owned by big luxury groups, and certainly not at the price point of the 273°. I’ll be honest here and admit that I was largely unfa...
Monochrome
Hands-on - Impressions about the Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified
About a month ago, out of the blue, Omega released a new, rather polarizing and unique-looking version of its emblematic chronograph, the Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified. Well, it wasn’t really out of the blue, but we’ll come back on that in a few. Colourful, tool-oriented and with a dial full of references to the world of […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Toledano & Chan B/1.2
This second release reveals a softer side of the brand's Brutalist inspired design.
Time+Tide
Why I converted wrists, and how it could happen to you
Let’s get one thing straight. I have been a proud lefty for my entire life, and I would never dream of abandoning my roots. If you’re a southpaw who feels betrayed by this article, just know that I would have felt exactly the same way before this happened to me. The wrist we wear our … ContinuedThe post Why I converted wrists, and how it could happen to you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
News - TAG Heuer is Back as Official Timekeeper for Formula 1 in 2025
In an unexpected move and with great noise, LVMH officialised a partnership that was rumoured to be closed for several weeks in October last year. Indeed, LVMH, the world’s largest luxury conglomerate, officially signed on as a Global Partner of Formula 1 in a groundbreaking 10-year deal, with what was certainly one of the most […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Panerai Luminor Marina Review: The PAM00777
Every watch has a story, but some watches come with adventures baked right into their DNA. If you've listened back to our older podcast episodes, you'll know that my Panerai Luminor Marina PAM00777 is one of those pieces. It wasn't just the culmination of years of quiet admiration for the brand; it was the memento of a whirlwind day in Florence that, for a moment, felt like a nightmare.
Fratello
Value In Vintage With The Bulova Wrist Alarm Watch
Hunting for vintage watches is a wonderful pursuit, but it can be full of pitfalls. A mechanical object that is decades old can have all sorts of problems that may be hard to diagnose from an online listing. That is why many of the vintage watches I like to peruse in my spare time are […] Visit Value In Vintage With The Bulova Wrist Alarm Watch to read the full article.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR Vs. 116710LN
Welcome to the first Sunday Morning Showdown of 2025! We hope you have enjoyed the holidays and are ready for our first battle of the new year. So make yourself a nice warm cup of coffee, and let’s get rolling! Today, we’ll play a game called Find the Differences. OK, although that is a joke, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR Vs. 116710LN to read the full article.
Fratello
Hot Take: The New And Improved CIGA Design Blue Planet II
The 2021 GPHG-winning CIGA Design Blue Planet is a unique take on time telling. Its domed dial with an engraved depiction of the earth tells time in a novel way. A good design firm rarely rests on its laurels, though, and the Blue Planet II brings subtle but positive changes. I remember the original CIGA […] Visit Hot Take: The New And Improved CIGA Design Blue Planet II to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Cool Alarm Clock from Nanu, GTA 6 Hype, and Niche Bumper Stickers
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. The GTA 6 Hype is Getting Real Has there ever been a video game more hotly anticipated than the upcoming GTA 6? The latest entry in the Grant Theft Auto franchise doesn’t have an official release date yet, but developer Rockstar Games has indicated a late 2025 launch date. Beyond that, however, those in the know have been exceedingly tight lipped, which, as argued in this editorial in Screen Rant, has only served to bolster interest. Only a single trailer for the game has been released, and we’re now over a year removed from it, which has given fans plenty of time to speculate and hypothesize about what’s to come. It’s been reported that analysts expect GTA 6 could gross over $3 billion in its first year, with $1 billion coming from pre-orders alone, which would make it, by just about any measure, one of the highest grossing entertainment projects ever, not just in the realm of gaming, but in movies, music, etc. It’s too early to say for sure, but it wouldn’t be surprising if GTA 6 winds up being the piece of pop culture that 2025 is most remembered for. The Strange W...
Deployant
New: Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon
Longines starts the new year with a release of the Ultra-Chron Carbon. The new model incorporates the best of the iconic 1968 model with the aesthetics of a modern timepiece.
Hodinkee
Just Because: The Rolex Daytona Le Mans In White Gold And Yellow Gold, Together
After nearly a year of waiting, we've got a closer look at the yellow gold Le Mans. But why choose between the two metals? We've got both of Rolex's hottest releases in recent memory.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: An Atomic Age Wittnauer, an Unusual “Apple Watch,” and a Funky Vintage Omega
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Apple Watch Here’s a really neat piece and one I haven’t seen before. It’s a vintage original-logo Apple watch. Although this watch looks like it’s from the 80’s, MacOS wasn’t released until 1999, and with the MacOS logo on the original rubber strap, I’m guessing that’s when this watch was released. It has a cool multicolor hands and bezel setup that matches the six color Apple logo. Very unique design with what looks like a blue anodized bezel and integrated hidden lugs with the crazy shaped hands. And the original rubber strap with blue buckle and MacOS logo on it. Great vintage Apple piece if you’re an Apple fan like me. View auction here 1950s Benrus This vintage 1950’s Benrus is super cool and in spectacular condition. The yellow gold fill tank style case has unique sculpted lugs giving it a look that really stands out. The fancy case is excellent with virtually no wearthrough that I can detect from the pictures. The crown is original and signed “Benrus”. The silver dial is about as clean as it gets with these types of 50’s watches and has the cool three color logo bar under the Benrus at 12 o’clock. The movement is clean and runs well per th...
Deployant
TGIFriday: How to set up the Fujifilm GFX on a Sinar for full movements
Using the Fujifilm GFX series cameras on Sinar large format cameras Take advantage of the generous movements offered. Here is how we do it.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Horological Wishes For 2025
Another Friday, another list! For the first one of the new year, we decided to sum up our wishes for 2025. We at Fratello all agreed that 2024 was a great year in watches. Some like to define that by the waves that big brands make. However, we based it on the sheer number of […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Horological Wishes For 2025 to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Sorry Guys, Size Does Matter: You’re Gonna Need a Bigger Wrist and Other Things your Watch Retailer Won’t Tell You
When it comes to looking dope, one can never be too careful. This can be limiting if your wrist is on the smaller side. Tamim Almousa explains the importance of a good fitting watch.
SJX Watches
In-Depth Retrospective: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk “Luminous”
I was there when the Zeitwerk “Luminous” was launched at SIHH in January 2010, just a few months after the launch of the original Zeitwerk in May 2009. To say that I was impressed with the Zeitwerk “Luminous” when I first saw it that year is an understatement. Already the original Zeitwerk was, and is, a landmark in contemporary watchmaking. A luminous version, well, what could be better? Even though the most complicated Lange debuted that year was the Tourbograph Honeygold “Homage to F. A. Lange” for the 165th anniversary (an odd milestone to celebrate but that’s another story), the glow-in-the-dark Zeitwerk was the star. Enough of a star that Johann Rupert, the controlling shareholder of Richemont, has been spotted wearing one on several occasions. I was already a longtime fan of the brand, but that Zeitwerk “Luminous” was astonishing. Even though it was, strictly speaking, merely a cosmetic variation, the Zeitwerk “Luminous” was cool – and that was a big deal for a brand like Lange. I wrote this about the watch at SIHH 2010: “[It] is absolutely unconventional… even avant-garde… During the day this has a dark, almost brooding look, but at night it glows tenaciously… This avant-garde PVD Lange is utterly cool (yes, “Lange” and “cool” in the same sentence). It is a tad gimmicky, but the lesson is this: gimmicks are forgiven if a watch is truly high quality and innovative.” I wasn’t the only one who thought that way, because thoug...
Teddy Baldassarre
New Seiko x Shohei Ohtani Limited Edition Prospex GMT Divers For 2025
Just announced by Seiko is a pair of limited-edition Prospex watches done in collaboration with Los Angeles Dodgers phenomenon Shohei Ohtani. The SBEJ023 and SBEJ025 are both takes on the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT, which was released back in 2023 as the first mechanical GMT in the Prospex collection. These two diver GMT watches will come in the iconic Dodger Blue colorway, with the SBEJ023 having a blue bezel with black dial and the SBEJ025 sporting a blue bezel with contrasting white dial. While not totally on theme here, I recall Ohtani wore a Grand Seiko SBGJ217 back in 2023 when he signed with the Dodgers. For a little context, these aren’t the first Seiko watches done in collaboration with Ohtani. The first was the Prospex Diver SBDC191, which came in out in 2023, while he still played for L.A.'s other baseball team, the Angels of the American League. That watch had the red seconds hand and dial text as well as Ohtani’s signature on the clasp. These new watches have the Ohtani’s number 17 highlighted in red on the GMT rehaut and his signature engraved on the bracelet clasp. The SBEJ023 and SBEJ025 share the same basics as the standard 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT, recognizable for its vintage-inspired, Marine Master-esque design. Measuring 42mm wide, 12.9mm thick, and with a 48.6mm lug-to-lug measurement, these watches are water-resistant to 200 meters and boast a very well-made ceramic bezel. The real GMT nerds will be a little disappointed with the lack of ...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Doxa Sub 200T
Doxa, Doxa, Doxa. There’s a lot about the current incarnation of the brand to like and a lot that leaves us enthusiasts questioning what’s going on and why. Which honestly, is fine. It’s cool to see a brand experiment and find out what works for them, but a lot of people seem to expect a straightforward dive watch experience from the brand that draws from its strong history rooted in adventure and aquatic exploration. While I had some strong opinions, I did not “fill in the vacuum with my no-holds-barred opinion” (read Meg’s take on the Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds, it’s a good one). Clearly, the diamond-encrusted $9,400 take on this watch is not in my wheelhouse. But what about the $1,590 version that captures all of the classic Doxa charm in an extremely well-wearing package? It seems to have been overshadowed as of late by the diamond-laden version, but hopefully this hands-on can bring it back into focus a bit. While I’m not a huge Clive Cussler fan (never read anything by the guy), I don’t have any Jacques Cousteau documentaries queued up on my Youtube, and most of my time spent in the ocean is standing on the shore in knee-deep water trying to catch a striped bass at the expense of sleep, I do appreciate a good dive watch. I used to own a Doxa Sub 200, which I really loved and still miss from time to time. Doxa can make a heck of a watch and they always nail the wearability factor in the 200 lineup. Let’s take a look at what makes this diver an excell...
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Lookbook: Get On Track with the Cadola Lydden Hill
Many of the automotive-inspired watches we love as enthusiasts often walk the line of being just out of reach. This can be due to pricing, styling, or branding. Cadola has set out to change all that, making approachable auto adjacent designs for the next era of enthusiasts. Their design language is fashionable, their branding is accessible, and most importantly their pricing is reasonable. This means that the rising generation of both racing and watch fans has a new alternative to turn toward in order to scratch their auto-inspo itch. The post Lookbook: Get On Track with the Cadola Lydden Hill appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
An Ode to Origins with The New Casio G-SHOCK DW-5000R
In 1983, Sally Ride became the first American woman in space, the final episode of the acclaimed television series MASH* aired, the members of rock band KISS were seen without their makeup for the first time, and the first Casio G-SHOCK, the DW-5000C, was released to consumers. An incredibly rare piece to find nowadays––especially in good condition without a crumbling band or shroud––this model has become an elusive collector’s item, practically unobtainable for the common hobbyist. Forty-one years later, Casio has just announced their modern redesign of the original 5000C in their new DW-5000R model. Throughout 2024, the brand released numerous watches in commemoration of their 50th anniversary like the GMWB5000SS-2, TRN50SS-2A, and GMC-B2100ZE-1A, but the faithful recreation of this model is sure to be a hit amongst both Casio enthusiasts and ordinary customers looking for a new but retro-inspired watch. The DW-5000R is built with a stainless-steel case and “Shock Resistant” labeled screw-down case back, a rare sight on modern Casios and yet another callback to the company’s roots. The shroud and band are constructed of environmentally friendly yet durable bio-based resin. Its dial is arguably the most significant characteristic of these models, fit with the iconic brick backsplash, red outline, and yellow and blue lettering. Manufactured in Yamagata, Japan––within the same mother factory that produced the original DW-5000C–– “JAPAN” is feat...
Time+Tide
Our favourite watches from the T+T Shop in 2024
As 2024 starts to disappear in our rear-view mirror, we look at some of our favourite watches that launched in the Time+Tide Shop last year.The post Our favourite watches from the T+T Shop in 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer is back in Formula 1 as official timekeeper
After Rolex gave way to LVMH for Formula 1 title sponsorship, it was only a matter of time before TAG Heuer swooped in.The post TAG Heuer is back in Formula 1 as official timekeeper appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.