Hodinkee
Hands-On: Ralph Lauren Updated Its 867 Collection. Now It’s The Dress Watch It Should Be
A fresh take on Art Deco that doesn't take itself so seriously.
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Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Eight Big-Time Surprises From Watches & Wonders 2023
Just when we thought we'd seen it all, these babies pulled us back in.
Worn & Wound
IWC’s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Finally Gets a Ceramic Case
In the midst of what can only be described as Ingenieur Mania at Watches & Wonders a few weeks ago, IWC quietly unveiled a pair of watches in their Pilot collection that would have certainly been the headline grabbing highlights in almost any other year. It’s interesting in terms of strategy (they clearly wanted to focus heavily on the new Ingenieur, a watch that has been long requested by collectors and clearly represents years of fine tuning) and because, well, the new Pilot’s Chronographs on display were kind of awesome, and show that even in an off year, IWC is completely committed to maintaining their King of the Pilot Watch status. What we have here are two 41mm Pilot’s Chronographs in ceramic, which represents the first time the brand has gone ceramic in this particular size. You’ll recall that last year the marquee releases were two colored ceramic Pilot’s Chronos (in “Tahoe” white and “Woodland” green), but both were in a somewhat unwieldy 44.5mm case. The 41mm size was introduced in steel in 2021, a welcome downsize from the 43mm case IWC had been using immediately prior, and has since seen versions in titanium and Ceratanium. IWC has demonstrated a fondness for variety when it comes to materials, so it was only a matter of time before the smaller pilot chrono got the ceramic treatment. First up, the Pilot’s Chronograph in “Oceana,” a shade of blue developed with Pantone, and inspired by the color of overalls worn by members of the Uni...
WatchAdvice
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Hands on Review
Early March – Tissot released its new look line up of a revived model line, the Chemin des Tourelles, named after the location of the brands first headquarters in Le Locle. I had the pleasure of going hands on with several of its key pieces, and in particular the 39 mm version, with sunburst blue dial and brown leather strap. What we like Beautifully finished deep blue sunburst dialCase wears comfortably on the wristSmart, classic design What we don’t like Crystal reflects the light a lot, detracting from the dialClasp isn’t as sturdy as you would expectMovement could be finished better with the see-through case back Overall rating: 7.125/10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 6.5/10 Now I should start out by stating that this watch retails for AUD $1,175, which by many people’s standard in the crazy world of watches we live in, could be considered quite cheap. However, this is a great entry level price point for a Swiss watch, and as such, I’m reviewing it with this in mind, and to be honest, I’ve worn plenty of watched that are 3x or more in price that are probably on par if not a little less appealing or well built! So, here we go… Tissot holds a fond place in my heart. It was the first ever Swiss watch I bought. I had my first ever job in Sydney, and even though I wasn’t earning much, being a junior sales co-ordinator at a major radio network, I wanted to reward myself. So one lunch time I went to one of the local watch d...
Time+Tide
With the new Tudor Black Bay 41 and Black Bay 54, is the BB58 in danger of becoming obsolete?
The response to the new Tudor Black Bay 54 has been massive, with many on our Instagram dubbing it the release of the fair and, on my end, making it onto my top five favourite releases of Watches & Wonders 23. But that was not the only fan-certified win from Tudor this year. The slimmer … ContinuedThe post With the new Tudor Black Bay 41 and Black Bay 54, is the BB58 in danger of becoming obsolete? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
In Conversation with Karl-Friedrich Scheufele on the Art and Science of Ferdinand Berthoud
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, has always had a deep appreciation for the art, science and history of horology. This passion drove him to revive a long forgotten name from the annals of watchmaking, the 18th-century Clockmaker-Mechanic to King Louis XV and the French Navy, Ferdinand Berthoud. Berthoud’s extraordinarily precise marine chronometers built his reputation […]
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the Lion Astroclock
Titled Chanel Interstellar, the 2023 watch collection debuted by Chanel was inspired by “science fiction, space and time travel”. The line-up naturally included exotic variations on the J12, but the most impressive timekeeper wasn’t a wristwatch but a desk clock, the Lion Astroclock. Anchored by a lion, the Astroclock is typical Chanel in style. Almost entirely matte black, it has discreet touches of extravagance in the form of brilliant-cut diamonds on the hands, which form the unusual, planetarium-style time display. The lion is a reference to Leo, Coco Chanel’s zodiac sign Initial thoughts Monochromatic, sculptural timekeepers with the occasion gemstone setting, Chanel’s top-of-the-line clocks possess an easy, intrinsic appeal. The Astroclock is no different. At a distance, it probably won’t look particularly interesting on a desk, but up close the refined execution is visible. All the details within the glass sphere – the three-dimensional time display, polished surfaces, and brilliant-cut diamonds – need to be admired up close. With its US$350,000-ish price tag, the Astroclock is probably more expensive than it should be considering the relatively simple L’Epee movement, but it is impressive. Symbolism Clean and entirely in matte black, the Lion Astroclock echoes the styling of the Chronosphere clock of 2018, but with added astronomical elements that reference Coco Chanel. Standing about 35 cm high, the Lion Astroclock is comprised of a base enclosin...
Worn & Wound
Zodiac Unveils their Most Colorful Super Sea Wolf Yet
Over the last few years, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf has generated a head of steam in the collector community, becoming an unlikely talking point among enthusiasts as new iterations have been released at a fast clip. These watches have a common thread in that they all pay a certain amount of respect to classic vintage designs, but Zodiac has been extremely willing to play with color, and that’s been a large part of their success with this line in the recent past. Across both limited editions and releases in the permanent collection, Zodiac has proven that they aren’t afraid to experiment, and that exclusively creating sober dive watches without much of a personality is of little interest to them. This new release, then, feels like the culmination of what we’ve seen in Zodiac’s recent strategy, with what might be their most colorful watch yet, which ironically doesn’t even have a traditional dial. The new Super Sea Wolf Compression Skeleton prominently features the STP 6-15 automatic movement, plainly visible from the dial side. This is the first time we can recall Zodiac using a skeleton design in a modern context, and certainly within their dive watch line, so it speaks to their confidence in and pride in the STP caliber that they’d be willing to show it off in such a way. STP, of course, is Fossil owned movement manufacture that is a sister brand to Zodiac, and has played a large role in outfitting their recent releases with high quality, competitively priced...
Worn & Wound
A Closer Look at the Ressence Type 8S and Type 1 Round (w/ Video)
It’s hard for a brand to stand out in the halls of Watches and Wonders. After all, the place is literally filled with some of the newest and finest horological creations. Yet Ressence manages to, even if they maintain a relatively low profile overall. Their booth isn’t elaborate, nor is there loud music or flashy lights to draw you in. Instead, their evenly lit room invites you in with a seat at a bar that doesn’t serve drinks, but rather a unique vision of watchmaking. And, naturally, it’s the watches themselves that make the booth stand out. While certainly in the realm of the high-end, their watches aren’t ornate or fussy. They aren’t traditional. There are no tourbillons or minute repeaters to ooh and awe at, nor gold or platinum to catch your eye with a glint. Instead, they are a reprieve from such things. Their watches look like precision technology from a future utopian world. And, well, that’s half true. Meeting with Ressence is a combination of seeing novelties and talking about manufacturing. A color change and how that affects tolerances. Years of R&D; to make already incredibly fine gaps between the moving components even finer. The word “micron” gets used with some frequency. They are a brand about precision technology, cleverly executed for a seemingly effortless result. This year, the focus was on two novelties: the Type 8S, and the Type 1 Round. The former was a new version of last year’s big announcement presented in a soothing sage gree...
Time+Tide
The mind-blowing majesty of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication
Vacheron Constantin drops an incredible one-of-one reference from its Les Cabinotiers collection for Watches & Wonders 2023 The Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication is a two-dialled expression of the pinnacle of Vacheron’s craft No less than 774 components make up the elaborate movement that boasts 11 complications It’s hard to overstate the level of … ContinuedThe post The mind-blowing majesty of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now
Although the 2020s is a young decade so far, we’ve already been treated to a wealth of dial enrichment from textures, colours, and even shapes from plenty of big-name brands who traditionally don’t take risks. While that demonstrates a growing trend towards watch enthusiasts enjoying more characterful watches, that doesn’t mean that it’s anything new. … ContinuedThe post The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed
Welcome to episode 44 of A Week In Watches, a week where we recover from the hustle bustle of Watches & Wonders, and ponder some of the releases that may have slipped through the cracks. We talk about a new world timer watch from Ming, a few new watches from Frederique Constant, more hits from Chopard, and even a new LM Perpetual variant in steel from MB&F; (more from the M.A.D. House coming soon!). Stay tuned as we get our hands on many of these new release for more in-depth reviews. We also caught wind of a new batch of cities selected to sell the MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine, for one day only this past week. What will this mean for future availability? Do we want more of these special edition MoonSwatches? Let us know in the comments or head over to YouTube to join the discussion. In total this may have been a somewhat low key year for Watches & Wonders, but there was still plenty to explore and discover, even on the fringes and outside of the show itself. We’ve got an inside look at a few other shows taking place in Geneva last week, so keep an eye out for more from the likes of Sinn, DeBethune, F.P. Journe, Doxa, and others. Let us know what releases caught your eye and what you’d like to see reviewed here at Worn & Wound. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Highlights From The Shop: The Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic “Fugu”
Welcome to Highlights From The Shop. In this new series, we’re going to focus on watches in the Windup Shop that we feel deserve more attention. Whether it’s due to a constantly changing news cycle or hundreds of watches being released throughout the year, these watches had a short lifespan at the top of your feed. Whatever the cause, this is our chance to revisit some great watches you may have missed. Welcome to Highlights From The Shop. In this new series, we’re going to focus on watches in the Windup Shop that we feel deserve more attention. Whether it’s due to a constantly changing news cycle or hundreds of watches being released throughout the year, these watches had a short lifespan at the top of your feed. Whatever the cause, this is our chance to revisit some great watches you may have missed. The post Highlights From The Shop: The Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic “Fugu” appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Zach’s top five watches from Watches & Wonders 2023 (Live Pics)
Last year during the fair, Andrew and I were able to find the time to sit down and share our top five picks on camera in a full feature-length video. Unfortunately, this year at Watches & Wonders, our schedule was so jam-packed we were unable to find a spare half hour to film a sequel. … ContinuedThe post Zach’s top five watches from Watches & Wonders 2023 (Live Pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Quest For My Ultimate Fountain Pen Part 1: The All-Over-The-Place Period – Reprise
Martin Green's quest for the ultimate fountain pen began unexpectedly, and over the following decades he learned many things, including nothing compares to writing with a gold nib! Join Martin as he embarks upon part one of his personal fountain pen journey, which includes an inherited piece, a demonstrator, over-the-top colors, and cloisonné enamel.
Time+Tide
Urwerk auctions the UR-105M Trinity piece unique, inspired by a prehistoric monster
Not many watch brands can be proud of the fact that their watches are inspired by dinosaurs, but the deviant horologists over at Urwerk can claim at least two pieces that have drawn inspiration from these overgrown lizards – the UR-100 T-Rex and UR-105 T-Rex. It is the latter that serves as the base for … ContinuedThe post Urwerk auctions the UR-105M Trinity piece unique, inspired by a prehistoric monster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Rewind: The Best Stories From Watches & Wonders Past
We can't help but get a little nostalgic every once and a while.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Watches of Hit HBO Series ‘Succession’, Two More Paul Newman Daytonas Discovered, The A-Tech Multi-Tool Keychain, & More
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Esquire Talking Watches With Succession’s Prop Master Monica Jacobs Via Esquire In one of the most recent Succession episodes, hearing Kendall Roy describe their new media-venture called The Hundred as, “Substack meets Masterclass meets the Economist meets the New Yorker.” remains as one of the many chuckle-worthy lines we’ve heard during this season thus far. Almost every character is capable of delivering such a line, especially Roman Roy, Tom Wambsgans and Greg Hirsch. Especially Greg. But in addition to the witty writing and awesome plot, as watch enthusiasts, it’s hard not to pay attention to what’s on the wrists of our favorite characters. Via Esquire In a recent Esquire interview, Prop Master Monica Jacobs spills all the details as to how some of these very particular, highly-specific watches made their way onto the show. The interview also digs into how each watch is chosen and how the character’s personality is reflected upon the watch they wear. For example, why does Roman Roy wear Rolex all the time, and what’s with Logan Roy sticking wi...
Time+Tide
Why watch puns tick me off
In the world of horological journalism, where centuries-old companies lord over a multi-billion dollar industry and push the boundaries of mechanical engineering and art simultaneously, it’s pretty much considered a crime to write a pun into your articles. If you ask me, it’s a total waste of time. Most writers would never stoop that low, … ContinuedThe post Why watch puns tick me off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Watches and Wonders 2023: new Parmigiani Fleurier
Parmigiani Fleurier is a watchmaking company that seeks to combine the traditional with innovation. Here are the latest releases in the Tonda collection.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: In Times Square For The Launch Of The New Moonshine MoonSwatch - Turns Out It’s Been (Slightly) Updated
MoonSwatch took Manhattan with a new differentiating detail, and we were on the scene to see it.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The history of Bovet, a contemporary brand with impeccable old-world credentials
Despite the age of the watchmaking trade, there aren’t too many brands that can boast 200 years of history. Those that do often have insular development, still operating from within their small town beginnings and sometimes run by the original family. The story of Bovet is much more diverse, including a multitude of characters and … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The history of Bovet, a contemporary brand with impeccable old-world credentials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
10-year-old treasure hunter at a Sydney beach reunites lost 1975 Cartier Santos with its owner
If you ever lose a watch at Mosman’s Balmoral beach in Sydney, it would seem there is a particular family you need to call to increase your odds of its retrieval. The Daily Mail reported that an elderly British man lost his 1975 Cartier Santos watch while visiting the Sydney beach, but thankfully enlisted a … ContinuedThe post 10-year-old treasure hunter at a Sydney beach reunites lost 1975 Cartier Santos with its owner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar is a first for the brand
High complications are not something we would typically associate with Panerai - however that could all be about to change with the introduction of their first annual calendar movement.The post The Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar is a first for the brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Stephen Nichols
Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Stephen Nichols shares not three, but four watches, and somehow still manages to stay under budget. This collection is a testament to micro-brands bringing something a little different to the table, and highlights just how far you can stretch your budget on some truly awesome watches. Stephen was even kind enough to provide his own photography of the watches, so all credit to @talkingabouttime for the imagery within. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. The old adage, “anything worth doing is worth overdoing,” is as true to watch collecting as it is to anything else. Thankfully, you don’t have to skimp on quality and design for a three-watch collection even when you’re on a budget. Micro-brands are offering up more than just great value, they’re giving us a personalized experience on top of it. Go to a watch fair or slide into a brand’s DMs, and chances are good you’ll be greeted by a dreamer who’s just itching to show you what they’ve made and why they made it. You can score an incredible watch that matches your style and also tells a personal story about the designer. Here’s a list of three, ok maybe four watches that deliver huge value for under $5,000. Watches that I’d be proud to add to my personal collection. Typsim – 200M – $1,199 How do you capture the charm of a vintage diver in a modern packag...
Time+Tide
The Panerai Radiomir California offers a more compact take on their classic dial
The Panerai Radiomir California is their first California dial in a 45mm case. For the first time, Panerai have experimented with a faux-aged PVD case. The green and gilt dial gives the watch a lot of old-world charm thanks to modern techniques. Panerai haven’t been the fastest brand to pick up on new trends historically, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir California offers a more compact take on their classic dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Panerai Introduces their First Annual Calendar as Part of the Radiomir Collection
Among the new releases from Panerai at this year’s Watches & Wonders, we find what amounts to a first from the brand: a pair of annual calendars. While Panerai has dabbled in perpetual calendars, the annual calendar compilation is a new venture. This has always felt like an under-appreciated complication to me in an environment where perpetual calendars tend to get all the plaudits. For the relatively minor inconvenience of having to make a manual adjustment to the calendar on the first day of March, you get a calendar complication that’s very nearly “set it and forget it” at what often amounts to a significant discount over comparable perpetuals. While these new Panerais aren’t exactly rubbing up against the value end of the spectrum (they are both well into the five figures, with cases in precious metals), they do represent something genuinely new in the Panerai catalog, which is always going to be of interest to the brand’s dedicated base of collectors. The new annual calendars are both found in the Radiomir collection, which is Panerai’s sleeker case design (compared to the Luminor) with vintage style wire lugs and a squared off cushion case shape. Gold and platinum options are available (Panerai refers to their alloys as “Goldtech” and “Platinumtech”) and the cases measure 45mm in diameter. Panerai enthusiasts and collectors will tell you that a 45mm Radiomir case wears quite a bit smaller than the numbers would indicate, because thanks to the ...
Worn & Wound
In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders
One of the most talked about releases this year came courtesy of IWC in the form of a new Ingenieur that takes the watch back to its Gerald Genta design era of history. You can see our hands-on impressions of that watch right here. The new watches take clear inspiration from the 1970s footprint, but offer a quite contemporary execution that won’t be mistaken for anything throwback. But that’s not all people were discussing at their year’s Watches & Wonders, the IWC booth made one of the biggest impressions of the whole fair, setting a funky ‘70s engineering aesthetic against the new watches, which even included a Mercedes C-111 mkIII concept car right in the booth. During our visit to the booth, we ran into IWC CEO (and Worn & Wound Podcast alum) Chris Grainger, who gave us the scoop on the new watches and the booth itself. This watch was a long time coming, as you might imagine, and Chris takes us through some of the development of the design we see today. Oh, and those crown guards? It seems that we’re the only ones that spent any real time stressing about them. See more of our coverage of Watches & Wonders 2023 right here, and head over to our YouTube channel for more of our video content. The post In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Junghans Meister S Chronoscope blends dressy sophistication with all-out sports utility
The Junghans Meister S Chronoscope is now available with a blue dial. The 45mm watch is fully featured with 200m of water resistance. Its style is a great blend between dressy sophistication and all-out sports utility. Junghans first released the Meister S Chronoscope in 2020, and in hindsight it’s hard to believe that it’s taken … ContinuedThe post The Junghans Meister S Chronoscope blends dressy sophistication with all-out sports utility appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 6: Hublot big love
Today we enter the world of the Hublot Big Bang, yes that’s right, Hublot one of the most polarising watch brands on the market. They were made famous by the likes of Jay-Z whose lyrics: ”I’m still the man to watch, Hublot on my left hand or not” and his Hublot-centric collection outline his continued … ContinuedThe post Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 6: Hublot big love appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.