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Sapphire Crystal

Mohs-9 synthetic corundum, the default crystal on serious watches since the 1970s.

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a Collection of Colorful Gold Chronographs Worn & Wound
Maurice de Mauriac Jan 4, 2024

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a Collection of Colorful Gold Chronographs

The latest release from Maurice de Mauriac is a timely release for the holiday season and the upcoming Olympic year. Focusing on an array of gold-accented chronographs, the new L3 Gold Edition seamlessly marries an elegant design with superb quality that has become synonymous with the Zuch-based brand. The L3 Gold Edition comes in five colorways to choose from: Emerald Green, Cherry Blossom, Opalescent White, Spheric Blue, and Spheric Brown, each with a corresponding hand-tooled leather watch strap that perfectly complements the dial color. Each timepiece features a brushed 18kt 5N red gold case (measuring in at 40.5 mm) with a screw-in red gold crown and mushroom-type pushers, complemented by an antireflective domed sapphire crystal and a sapphire caseback. All models in the L3 Gold Edition  include subdials for the chronograph minute counter at 3 o’clock, chronograph half-hours at 6 o’clock, and running small seconds at 9 o’clock. For prospective customers, one is able to choose between an automatic or manual movement for their L3. The automatic movement is powered by an automatic Concepto 2100-2120, while the manual-would option contains a Concepto C2000.  The L3 Gold Edition watches are available now via Maurice de Mauriac’s website with prices starting at CHF 14,700. Images from this post: The post Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a Collection of Colorful Gold Chronographs appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Sweden’s E.C. Andersson Debuts the Bold (and Very Thin) Mytilus Worn & Wound
Dec 26, 2023

Sweden’s E.C. Andersson Debuts the Bold (and Very Thin) Mytilus

We’ve featured E.C. Andersson, a small watch brand out of Sweden, in our Micro-Brand Digest a few times now. Their latest, however, definitely warrants a longer look. The Mytilus is easily their most ambitious design to date, and serves as an extension of what’s come before as well as a bit of a bolder statement. Described by the brand as “retrofuturistic” in its style, it’s been conceived as a distinctive watch that’s also ultra lightweight and thin. It’s part of a larger crop of new designs that we’re incredibly excited about that offer a real taste of the avant-garde at an approachable price point. While the design and manufacturing of the Mytilus is surely quite complex in practice, the concept is fairly straightforward and easy to understand. The “case” is a milled block of solid aluminum and this central component is just 4.1mm thick. The sapphire crystal has a deep box design and pulls double duty as a bezel that holds the unit together. The brand says the crystal is attached to the case directly via six screws, and that total of twenty-one gaskets are used on the Mytilus to ensure water resistance (it’s rated to 60 meters, which is pretty good for such a thin mechanical watch). With the crystal attached, the total thickness of the Mytilus comes in at 9.5mm (the case is 38mm wide). This is a time only watch with a simple, sandwich style dial with lume seen from a lower layer at the cardinal positions. Like the case and caseback, the dial is als...

The Kollokium Projekt 01 Broadens Creative Horizons SJX Watches
Dec 14, 2023

The Kollokium Projekt 01 Broadens Creative Horizons

Positioned as a creative endeavour rather than a traditional brand, Kollokium debuts with a departure from conventional watchmaking norms, the Projekt 01. Born from the aesthetic sensibilities of its founders, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, Kollokium is about unconventional design and raw, unpolished aesthetics. Kollokium is a project-based offering, with each “projekt” iterated into variants but produced in limited numbers. Projekt 01 begins as a “Friends & Family” edition only for insiders, but a publicly available version will soon be launched in early 2024. Initial thoughts The Projekt 01 blends avant-garde design with innovative manufacturing processes, and an affordable price tag. And it also doesn’t take itself too seriously, as evidenced by the case back – something that collectors tired of self-important brands will appreciate. The cast steel case delivers an industrial and robust aesthetic, setting it apart from watches in this price segment. On top is a highly-domed “box” sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating that enhances the visual experience. But most intriguing is the three-dimensional pixellated dial made up of with 468 hand-applied cylindrical markers tipped with Super-LumiNova, a surprising degree of craftsmanship given its price. Kollokium’s philosophy is also reflected in the decision to identify the La Joux-Perret G101 movement. Like many watch start-ups, Kollokium is committed to transparency, while being mor...

Bremont’s Latest Made in Collaboration with Martin-Baker is a Stealthy Pilot’s GMT Worn & Wound
Bremont s Latest Made Dec 13, 2023

Bremont’s Latest Made in Collaboration with Martin-Baker is a Stealthy Pilot’s GMT

You know when you run across something so rad that you realize “wow, I never knew I wanted that, but I totally do!” What if I told you there’s a watch that’s been made in collaboration with an iconic ejection seat manufacturer, and the watch itself has been tested to the same extremes as said ejection seats: vibration, extreme endurance, live ejection, altitude, and aircraft carrier deck testing? Well, Bremont and Martin-Baker brought life to a limited edition watch that expands on Bremont’s popular MB line - the MBIII Stealth is born. Limited to only 50 pieces, the MBIII Stealth is an almost totally blacked-out watch that would curl the toes of any secret agent. The case itself is 43mm of jet black DLC coated stainless steel with a knurled aluminum barrel, that pulls from the design elements of Martin-Baker ejection seats, and matches with the knurling on the duel crowns: one crown for setting and winding your watch, and the other is for the inner rotating 24-hour bezel. The MBIII Stealth has GMT and date functionality, made possible through Bremont’s chronometer certified BE-93-2AV automatic movement. The movement itself is anti-shock with a faraday ring that makes it both shock resistant and anti-magnetic, and it can all be seen through a smoked sapphire exhibition caseback that adds to the jet-setting super spy motif of the watch.  In fact, the only area in which any color can be found is underneath the sapphire crystal on the dial, whose Arabic numerals...

Rado Brings Back the Anatom, a Lost Classic from the 1980s Worn & Wound
Rado Brings Back Dec 12, 2023

Rado Brings Back the Anatom, a Lost Classic from the 1980s

Over the weekend, Rado dipped into their archives to bring back a lost classic from the 1980s. If you can recall the early 80s (or just have a penchant for watches of this era) you might remember the Anatom. This square cased watch with a dramatically curved case and sapphire crystal has been ripe for repurposing for the last few years – it certainly has some integrated bracelet sports watch notes to it. What Rado has done with this release is take the premise of the watch from the 80s and modernize it using Rado’s contemporary design language. The result is an Anatom that doesn’t look much like the original, but clearly shares some DNA and is unmistakably a Rado.  The most significant difference between the original Anatom and the new version is the more prominent use of ceramic in the present day model. Rado has always been keen to experiment with materials, especially ceramic, but they’ve really leaned into this as part of their brand identity quite heavily in the last few years. Most of the key models in their lineup are either full ceramic, or ceramic in all the important places. That’s where the Anatom fits in. The new version has a PVD coated steel midcase, but the ceramic bezel leaves a large visual impression, and we also get a ceramic crown and a ceramic overlay on the integrated rubber strap’s clasp. The case measures 32.5mm x 46.3mm and is 11.3mm tall. As with the vintage versions of this watch, the case is curved, which in turn means the dial and ...

Maurice de Mauriac Sees Red with the New L1 Red Lightning Worn & Wound
Maurice de Mauriac Nov 22, 2023

Maurice de Mauriac Sees Red with the New L1 Red Lightning

They say lightning doesn’t strike twice – but what about Red Lightning? Zurich-based Maurice de Mauriac has once again ignited the horological scene with their latest creation, the L1 Red Lightning. Known for being the choice of creatives worldwide, the brand has reimagined their L1 series with a red makeover that makes a bold statement. While the L1 Red Lightning’s predecessors were known for their clean aesthetic and a more pure design, this new iteration of the classic has just a bit of rock ‘n roll infused into it. In fact, it was Swiss musician, Crime, who first gave inspiration to Maurice de Mauriac for the vibrant change to the L1. And now, everyone can enjoy the bold addition to their line-up.  While the red dial might be the most obvious feature of this watch, let’s not forget about the broad appeal that Maurice de Mauriac has in the market. The L1 Red Lightning boasts a stainless steel case with a black DLC coating, providing a sleek and durable exterior. The visible back and sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides showcase the meticulous craftsmanship. With a diameter of 39mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 46.6mm, the watch strikes a balance between presence and wearability. This L1 is powered by the automatic La Joux-Perret G100 caliber, ensuring precision with a generous power reserve of 68 hours. With a water-resistance at 10 ATM, it’ll fit into most regular-use situations (or, perhaps, a crazy night out with a Swiss pop star!)....

Takashi Murakami Fuses Art and Horology with the Hublot MP-15 SJX Watches
Hublot MP-15 Hublot unveiled Nov 22, 2023

Takashi Murakami Fuses Art and Horology with the Hublot MP-15

Hublot unveiled its fourth collaboration with the Japanese artist Takashi Murakami – the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire. Demonstrating Hublot’s mastery sapphire crystal cases, the watch is the brand’s first central tourbillon in regular production. The MP-15 is a fusion of artistic expression and watchmaking, that pushes the boundaries of mechanics and design, with the nudging of Mr Murakami, who previously designed a pair of simpler watches for Hublot. Initial thoughts The MP-15 is an entirely new watch, from case to movement, that was constructed to embody  Mr Murakami’s signature style. It takes a fresh and playful direction away from the relatively tamer previous editions that were based on an existing model. First seen with the unique example produced for Only Watch, the latest collaboration between Hublot and Takashi Murakami seamlessly combines Mr Murakami’s artistic vision with Hublot’s watchmaking proficiency, resulting in a unique and expressive watch.  Notably, the MP-15 is not as big as expected. It’s 42 mm in diameter but has no lugs, while the strap is narrow, making it suitable for both men and women. The Only Watch edition The MP-15 is more than a watch; it’s arguably wearable art. The retail price of US$316,000 certainly puts it closer to Mr Murakami’s creations than a wristwatch, even with the tourbillon. It is a very expensive wristwatch, but not so expensive relative to Mr Murakami’s art. Though this is a relatively lar...

Luminox Partners with Ball and Buck for a Limited Edition Field Watch Worn & Wound
Luminox Nov 20, 2023

Luminox Partners with Ball and Buck for a Limited Edition Field Watch

Known for producing some of the most popular sporting and outdoor gear on the market, Ball and Buck has teamed up with Swiss watch brand Luminox for their latest iteration of the classic Field Watch. The entirety of the watch centers around the Ball and Buck camo design that fits naturally into the field watch aesthetic. Used as the dial, one immediately gets the sense that this is a watch that’s meant to be worn in an array of environments year after year. Against the green and brown tones of the dial, the watch is accented in vibrant orange, which includes Luminox Light Technology providing maximum visibility even in the darkest environments for all-day use.  The watch itself runs on a 26 jewel automatic Swiss Sellita SW 220 movement that can be seen through the sapphire crystal exhibition back, adding a bit of hidden enchantment for an otherwise utility focused watch. The case measures 44mm in diameter and is 14mm tall.  The watch is available in two options. A standard and non-limited release priced at $1,298, gets you the watch with a leather strap. For an additional $200 at $1,498, you can opt for the limited edition set, which includes an additional ballistic nylon watch band, certificate of authenticity, and premium watch box. The collector’s set is limited to just 76 pieces.  The Ball and Buck x Luminox Field Watch is available now via the Ball and Buck website. Images from this post: The post Luminox Partners with Ball and Buck for a Limited Edition Field ...

Traska Launches a New and Improved Venturer GMT Worn & Wound
Nov 6, 2023

Traska Launches a New and Improved Venturer GMT

It has been a little over two years since Zach introduced the first iteration of Traska’s Venturer. A multipurpose sports watch which boasted incredible specs for your hard earned money. While the first model retailed for $585 and was equipped with a time and date Miyota 9019, the new version retails for $720 and is equipped with a “true” GMT Miyota 9075 caliber. That’s a meager $135 extra for a completely different movement which offers a new type of functionality: traveling like a pro. What’s more is that the brand added a tool-less micro-adjust clasp and gave the case a gentle facelift whilst improving its overall construction and finish. What’s not to like here? There are many ways to discuss watches. It could be its design, value, or the use of a unique movement. To be fair, many of us like to talk about value. We all like a good deal and the thing about micro and independent brands is that the “deals” get better and better each day. More specs, better construction, improved finish. Things just keep getting better. And you might find that the new Venturer GMT may very well be one of the best value GMTs out there right now by just looking at the spec sheet: a true GMT caliber, box-style domed sapphire crystal, tool-less micro-adjust clasp, 150 meters of water resistance, generous application of BGW9 lume, and a case and bracelet made of hardened steel. This makes the Venturer GMT a true travel companion and a proper tool watch.  Traska was one of the f...

Hands On: Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Oct 10, 2023

Hands On: Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie

In an unexpected movement, Louis Vuitton and Akrivia have just announced the Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie. Reflecting the collaborative nature of the watch, it has two faces – the tinted sapphire dial for the time and a fired enamel dial on the back for the chronograph. The LVRR-01 also boasts an unusual combination of complications: a chronograph with a chiming mechanism that strikes once every elapsed minute, along with a five-minute tourbillon – and a constant-force gear train. [NB: The watch pictured is one of two prototypes so the finishing, particularly the cleanliness of the movement, is not up to par.] Technically-minded enthusiasts will appreciate the sophistication of the movement, since the chronograph and sonnerie are driven by secondary barrel and going train that is effectively a one-minute constant force mechanism. Limited to 10 watches, the LVRR-01 is the first of a series of five collaborative projects between Louis Vuitton and independent watchmakers. The next project will be revealed in a year’s time, with the subsequent projects following the same annual timetable. Initial thoughts The LVRR-01 has the heft and gleam of a finely made watch. The chamfered edges on the platinum case immediately catch the eye, particularly because of the contrast with the brushed surfaces, and then the movement finishing becomes apparent through sapphire crystal. In fact, the smoked sapphire crystal perhaps obscures too much of the...

Unimatic Modello Uno Gets Serious About Diving with New U1S-PD3 & U1S-PD5 Worn & Wound
Unimatic Oct 9, 2023

Unimatic Modello Uno Gets Serious About Diving with New U1S-PD3 & U1S-PD5

Unimatic’s enigmatic dive watch, the Modello Uno, is largely celebrated for its simple design that’s almost conceptual in nature, with minimal representative elements that deconstruct the normal design cues we expect from such a watch. They are beautiful as a result, but never quite rose to the realm of practical dive watch. Unimatic captures an experience, and they do so quite effectively. If you enjoy the Unimatic vibe, but need something a little more performance oriented, their latest releases within the Modello Uno range look to cover new ground. These are the ProDivers references, the U1S-PD3 and U1S-PD5, pairing Unimatic design to a more funcion driven platform.  The pair of watches are straightforward in nature, but instantly recognizable as Unimatic thanks to their strong design language. In practice, these watches bring a lot to the table, and for the first time feel like a viable option as ‘tool’ divers. The biggest step is the inclusion of a fully indexed bezel for measuring elapsed time, a departure from the generally sterile bezel units fitted to these watches. Additionally, the robust case design, which is rated to 300 meters in the PD3, and to 500 meters in the PD5, are presented in a new slimmer package underneath a 2.5mm thick double-domed sapphire crystal. A redesigned crown tube with locking system allows for the impressive depth ratings in both cases. Both watches utilize a 40mm steel case that measures 41.5mm at the width of the 120 click bez...

Yema Debuts a Surprising Tourbillon to Celebrate their 75th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Yema Oct 6, 2023

Yema Debuts a Surprising Tourbillon to Celebrate their 75th Anniversary

Celebrating 75 years in business, French watchmakers Yema have recently released their Yachtingraf Tourbillon Maréographe, a tribute to classic design and Franco-Swiss watchmaking mastery. Ringing in a milestone is never an easy feat; but, somehow, Yema has been able to accomplish not only a timeless design, but something that showcases the pursuit of excellence that has defined the brand over the course of its history.  Don’t let the plain black and steel (or bronze) design fool you – this watch is anything but simple. Yema has incorporated a balance between yachting heritage design and function to show what this watch is capable of – while also doing it with a certain je nais sais quoi, courtesy of a somewhat unexpected tourbillon caliber. The tourbillon is visible at the 6 o’clock mark, giving one an interior look into the precision mechanisms of this masterpiece. Opposite that, at the 12 hour, the Maréographe has a unique lunar time complication with a display of tide cycles, complete with a decorative bearing the traditional Yema “Y” logo. While maybe not part of your day-to-day needs, it’s nonetheless a showing of Yema’s technical capabilities and a bit of a unique offering for an important anniversary. This watch measures in at 42.5 mm, giving it a sense of presence on the wrist that matches the various finishes of the design. The rotating bezel is beautifully crafted with additional scratch protection, while the double-domed sapphire crystal will...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Richard Mille RM 53-02 Oct 2, 2023

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Following our look at notable complications and artisanal masterpieces on offer at Sotheby’s Important Watches I in Hong Kong, we now consider the independent watchmaking highlights in the sale that takes place on October 7. The offerings in the sale range from establishment names like Philippe Dufour – on offer is a Simplicity 37 mm in platinum made after the original run – to newcomers like Pascal Coyon with a Besançon Observatory-certified chronometer. And the highlights also include the headline lot of the auction, the extravagant Richard Mille RM 53-02 in blue sapphire crystal. Important Watches I happens on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here.  The Richard Mille RM 53-02 Lot 2116: Pascal Coyon Chronometre  One of the most affordable offerings in the sale is the Pascal Coyon Chronometre, a watch inspired by the French watchmaker’s career as a watch and clock repairer in Bayonne. Though based on a Unitas 6498, Mr Coyon’s hand-wound movement bears a strong resemblance to classical 19th-century pocket watches from the likes of Longines. While the movement is still a Unitas 6498 at its core, it has been dressed up with frosted bridges and a snail cam regulator, amongst other things. Being one of his earlier watches, this has a plain, 42 mm polished steel case with a stepped bezel and a white lacquered dial with red numerals for “12” and “60”, complemented by Breguet-style hour and minute hands. This ...

Hands-On: the Isotope Hydrium California Worn & Wound
Isotope Hydrium California Isotope initially Sep 28, 2023

Hands-On: the Isotope Hydrium California

Isotope initially piqued my interest two years ago with their uniquely design-forward Hydrium “Will Return” dive watch. This timepiece was intentionally crafted to resemble the iconic “Will Return” sign often seen in shop windows, and its “Why not?” approach left a lasting impression on me.  Fast forward two years, and Isotope, founded in 2016 by José and Joana Miranda and headquartered in England, has expanded its Hydrium line with the Hydrium California. This watch, like its predecessors, boldly defies the conventions of typical dive watches, drawing inspiration from Isotope’s own heritage as much as from classic dive watches from the past century.  $1115 Hands-On: the Isotope Hydrium California Case Stainless steel Movement Landeron Automatic Dial Black Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap FKM Rubber Water Resistance 300 meters Dimensions 40 x 48mm Thickness 12.9mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $1115 When the Hydrium Califonia first arrived the first thing I noticed was its case. The starkly uniform bead-blasted finish, which reduces the risk of unwanted reflections that may attract predators during ocean adventures according to Isotope, immediately let me know I could expect this quirky dive watch to be utilitarian not only by design, but also in practice.  I eagerly strapped it to my wrist and, despite its generous thickness of 14.9mm, including the double-domed Sapphire Crystal, was pleased to learn that it wears true to its 40 mm diame...

Citizen Brings an Advanced Moonphase Display to their Line of Eco-Drive Powered Atomic Timekeepers Worn & Wound
Citizen Brings Sep 28, 2023

Citizen Brings an Advanced Moonphase Display to their Line of Eco-Drive Powered Atomic Timekeepers

Celebrating 30 years since the release of Citizen’s first atomic timekeeping watch, the new Tsuki-yoma A-T shows the evolution of the brand’s technical prowess and Citizen’s penchant for looking skyward for inspiration. Named after the ancient Japanese moon god, the Tsuki-yomi collection lives up to its namesake. Informed by a mathematical formula developed by Citizen, this watch calculates the phase of the moon each day from signals received from multi-band radio transmitters. These signals then are interpreted at the 6 o’clock mark of the dial, adjusting as the natural phases of the move wax and wane throughout the month. Technically speaking, that’s not even the most impressive feature of this watch’s use of the Luna Program technology. The watch will also switch the moon phase display to match the view either from the Northern or Southern Hemisphere, leaving wearers to easily navigate from Australia to New Mexico without having to manually change the moon phases yourself.  The dial is finished with a world time subdial in 24 time zones, a perpetual calendar, and day-date functionality at 4 o’clock. The watch comes in three colorways, blue, silver, and red. Each is housed in a 43mm scratch-resistant Super Titanium case with a sapphire crystal, each durably made to be taken on your next adventure. All three references are powered by the atomic timekeeping movement, Eco-Drive 2 Cal. H874, which can run for upwards of 2.5 years on a full charge.  The Tsuki-...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces a Pair of New Dial Options for the Polaris Chronograph Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Sep 5, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces a Pair of New Dial Options for the Polaris Chronograph

First launched in the 1960’s, then resurrected in 2018, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris has long been a standard-bearing watch for the luxury Swiss watchmaker. Now, five years on from the relaunch of the Polaris, Jaeger-LeCoultre has reinvisioned the watch in two new ways. Recently, the brand has added two new signature dials to new Polaris Chronograph line-up that not only showcase the artisanal craftsmanship of the house, but also raises the question of when does a sports watch become a piece of art? Each watch in the new collection displays the technical precision that has become synonymous with the brand. The two dials – a rich blue and a sporty gray – are made from applying lacquer to the dial, giving these timepieces a richness that nicely juxtaposes the 42mm steel case. The lacquered finish works as a backdrop to a complex dial that packs a punch, including a well-balanced set of subdials at 3 o’clock (featuring a 30-minute timer) and a running seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. The entire dial is encompassed in an outer ring that is marked with the tachymeter scale while both variants are accented in a pleasantly contrasting orange.  On the reverse of the watch is a sapphire crystal caseback which reveals the automatic Calibre 761 movement, which houses a generous 65-hour power reserve. The final touches of this movement include blued screws and Côtes de Genève decoration on the baseplate as well as on the signature open-worked winding rotor bearing the ‘JL...

Corum Looks Forward (and Back) with the Futuristic Concept Watch SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus Sep 1, 2023

Corum Looks Forward (and Back) with the Futuristic Concept Watch

Corum’s latest creation is the Concept Watch, a one-off timepiece that departs from the brand’s current offerings in its futuristic style. For a brand better known for the Golden Bridge and Admiral’s Cup, the Concept Watch is bold, different, and not for everyone. Made of recycled titanium, the case contains a movement with a flying tourbillon and sapphire crystal bridges set against an aventurine base. The movement, however, is a La Joux-Perret calibre that’s been found in Corum watches for several years. Initial thoughts With most of its sports watches being large and ostentatious, it’s good to see the brand shifting towards something more elegant. The Concept Watch is compact at under 40 mm in diameter and relatively restrained in design. While it is more appealing than most of Corum’s recent watches, there are caveats. I am not fond of the case design, which is too reminiscent of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. A round case with apertures that maximises the view of the movement, one similar to that of the Franc Villa FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, would have made this less derivative. Also, the strap attachment appears awkward, and will probably not make its way into other ways. At the same time, even though the design is a break from the past, the CO374 movement has been employed by Corum for more than a decade now. It is a La Joux-Perret calibre found in various forms across several brands, including the Arnold & Son TES Tourbillon. Notably, Corum debuted a...

Timex Pushes Boundaries with Giorgio Galli S2 Worn & Wound
Timex Pushes Boundaries Aug 24, 2023

Timex Pushes Boundaries with Giorgio Galli S2

Timex takes their relationship with Giorgio Galli a step further with a new iteration of the series called, naturally, the GGS2. The new watch retains much of the drama of the S1 (which our Ed Jelley reviewed here), but ramps up the minimal nature of the design language with a near sterile black dial set within one of the most unique cases you’re likely to find under $1,000. As with all of the Timex Giorgio Galli watches, there’s plenty to appreciate in the small details, and with even fewer components brought to the table here, those details matter all the more. The S2 is chic on the exterior, and this time, gains a bit of Swiss cache on the inside.  The S2 sets the stage for a new generation of Giorgio Galli watches from Timex, revealed in its most elemental form here that is easy to imagine spawning additional variations. The all black dial set under a sapphire crystal is framed by a single applied ring that hosts a notch for each hour of the day. It’s a stark scene but everything that’s there makes a big impact. The structure of that ring is subtle, but it’s mirrored in the hand-set in both design and tone. Only the word Timex appears at the top of the dial, while the Giorgio Galli and S2 Automatic labels are relegated to the bottom of that ring ring structure. While the dial has certainly evolved, the case retains its signature injection-molded skeleton execution with titanium inserts for the movement and caseback. It’s a bit exotic feeling and sets this ...

New: Franck Muller CURVEX™ CX  Deployant
Franck Muller Aug 19, 2023

New: Franck Muller CURVEX™ CX 

Franck Muller With its perfectly curved case and unique contours, the Cintrée Curvex™ is the brand's most distinctive silhouette. The unique and beautiful design of the numerals is also what makes the Cintrée Curvex immediately recognisable. Today, we present a redesigned case called the Curvex CX where the sapphire crystal extends all the way to the bracelet, giving much greater visibility to the dial. Furthermore, the bezel which is separate from the case, allows beautiful two-tone treatments.

Yema Introduces the New Sous Marine Dive Watch, a Contemporary Diver Designed by a Pro Worn & Wound
Yema Aug 17, 2023

Yema Introduces the New Sous Marine Dive Watch, a Contemporary Diver Designed by a Pro

If you look at the most recent crop of releases from Yema, they tend to be explicitly vintage inspired, or calling upon the brand’s past, in one way or another. The Urban Traveler is their take on a 1970s era integrated bracelet sports watch, and a new Rallygraf, with a look dating to a similar time period, also appeared earlier this summer. So their latest release, the Sous Marine dive watch, feels quite a bit different, in that this really has the appearance of a contemporary sports watch in a variety of key ways. Designed with help from Jason Washington, a Yema ambassador and professional diver, the Sous Marine has the trappings of a modern “pro” dive watch, but remains accessible to desk divers and those looking for some color and competence in an everyday piece.  The stainless steel case, which is water resistant to 300 meters, was designed to be compact and wearable, and measures 40.5mm in diameter while being just a hair over 12mm tall (including the sapphire crystal). The muscular crown guards are perhaps the first clue that this watch wasn’t designed purely by browsing old Yema catalogs. The aluminum bezel insert is perhaps a small remnant of the way these things used to be made, but even there the Arabic numerals and and hash marks to aid in timing have been given a luminescent treatment, which to me often feels like a wholeheartedly “contemporary” design decision.  The dial is split into multiple sectors, with an inner ring in white that displays t...

The Latest King Seiko Limited Edition Calls on Japanese Craft Traditions for Inspiration Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko challenged one another while Aug 16, 2023

The Latest King Seiko Limited Edition Calls on Japanese Craft Traditions for Inspiration

Some things are as sure as the rising sun, and in the Land of the Rising Sun, that means nature-inspired dials from Seiko…King Seiko, to be exact. As friendly divisional rivals in the 60s and early 70s, the workshops of King Seiko and Grand Seiko challenged one another while pushing the technical and aesthetic envelope of Japanese watchmaking. While some consider GS victorious as the KS name was sunsetted in 1975, the reality is that both were instrumental in establishing Seiko’s mid-century identity. More recently, Grand Seiko has spun off as a high-end, independent brand, and the King Seiko nameplate was rebooted in February of last year as a more premium offering within Seiko. Today, we take a look at a watch that isn’t entirely new yet brings an interesting flourish to the recently resurrected collection. The SJE095’s specifications are reasonable for the average wrist: 38.6mm x 45.8mm x 10.7mm, 5 bar water resistance, and powered by in-house caliber 6L35 (28,800 vph, 45 hour power reserve, +15/-10s a day) with a date complication and boxed sapphire crystal. Like the other SJE and SPB-reference King Seikos, it features a striking stainless steel case, sharp angles, and expansive flat surfaces, attributes of the original 1965 KSK on which the entire modern KS line is based. This new dial features a self-repeating pattern of circles and fine lines known as kiku tsunagi-mon. This particular design holds special significance in Japanese culture for several reasons....

Hands-on with the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton WatchAdvice
Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton Pros Aug 8, 2023

Hands-on with the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton

Pros Unique sapphire crystal The cool Ceramos bezelSkeletonized dial Cons Crown operations can get trickyCombining Square faceted sapphire crystal and Skeleton dial can get busy.Design cues for the DiaStar are not for everyone. Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 8/10 Rado’s iconic DiaStar model gets another update following last year’s 60th anniversary of the DiaStar edition, getting a case material change from hard metal to Rado CeramosTM and a one of kind Square faceted sapphire crystal. The Rado DiaStar was first introduced in 1962, and what an introduction it was. A milestone for the watch industry, the Rado DiaStar came with a ‘funky’ design and, more importantly, a scratch-proof case. Rado designed the very first DiaStar as a ceramic timepiece with a material called “tungsten carbide”. Although some people may argue that it’s not ceramic, tungsten carbide is considered ceramic, at least by the American Ceramic Society.  This is important because no timepiece at the time of DiaStar’s debut could offer a scratch-proof watch. When it comes to material innovation, the Diastar in ceramic was a breakthrough for the watchmaking industry. In modern times, the use of ceramic on timepieces is a more regular occurrence; however, for the industry as a whole, brands didn’t get on board with this material till around the 1980s. This highlights how far ahead in terms of material expertise and usage Rado wa...

Bell & Ross Goes Green with a New Version of the BR 05 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Goes Green Aug 1, 2023

Bell & Ross Goes Green with a New Version of the BR 05 Chronograph

The last Bell & Ross I wrote about had a celestial feel to it, but with the new BR 05 Chrono Green Steel, we’ve landed back on earth. With its mixture of steel and vibrant green, this BR 05 mixes urbanism with an architectural lean to it. Think Central Park in New York or the Tiergarten in Berlin – a respite of greenery in the middle of a steel-and-concrete jungle. Like all BR 05 models, the Chrono Green Steel retains its aviation-inspired squared dial that Bell & Ross now markets to the urban explorer crowd. And with its integrated steel bracelet and sleek design, it’s easy to see why. All models in the Chrono collection are equipped with a circular seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and a 30-second timer at 3 o’clock, creating a balance to the visuals of the watch that somehow fit neatly within the linear confines of the square dial. The date is cleverly tucked away in the small recess between 4 and 5 o’clock, hardly noticeable but definitely there. Like an urban planner, Bell & Ross has ensured that no bit of real estate has gone unnoticed. The green sunray dial and Super-LumiNova indices and numbers soften the overall feel of the watch itself. Coming in at 42mm of satin-polished steel, the use of green feels more inviting and less, well, cold.  The BR 05 Chrono Green Steel is equipped with a Swiss-made self-winding BR-CAL.326 movement, which can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back, and supplies the wearer with 60-hours of power reserve.  The BR 05 Ch...

Hublot Introduces the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Jul 6, 2023

Hublot Introduces the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire

Hublot has once again partnered with its favourite contemporary artist for Only Watch 2023: the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire is a one-of-a-kind creation for the biennial charity auction that is entirely unique from case to movement. Not only it is the brand’s first-ever central tourbillon, the watch has a sapphire crystal case in the shape of a flower with a bezel set with rainbow gemstones. Initial thoughts While Hublot is sometimes made fun of for its often repetitive limited editions that are colour facelifts, the creation for Only Watch is entirely new and entirely unique. Hublot and the Japanese artist have collaborated in the past, but on watches that were variants of standard models. In contrast, the Murakami Only Watch  pushes boundaries even by Hublot’s extravagant standards with a case entirely in sapphire, and flower-shaped no less. The Murakami Only Watch is also interesting mechanically. The calibre inside has a 150-hour power reserve along with a large, central tourbillon on the front. And the movement is unique to the Murakami Only Watch, at least for now. The aesthetic and mechanical novelty of the Murakami Only Watch are impressive and certainly makes this one of the highlights of Only Watch 2023. While Hublot will almost certainly create variations of this in the future, the effort expended in creating Murakami Only Watch is commendable. The Murakami Only Watch has an estimate of CHF350,000 to CHF400,000, with the high estimate being a ...

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph

Drawing inspiration from the Kinetic Chronograph of 1999, Seiko’s latest is the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph. It is equipped with a new solar movement that has the ability to measure elapsed time with a resolution of up to 1/100th of a second, though its defining attribute is the design: the chronograph and time displays are separated into individual sub-dials. The SFJ007 made for the 2023 World Athletics Championships Initial thoughts Seiko’s sports chronographs, particularly those equipped with quartz or solar-powered movements, receive less recognition than their higher-end counterparts. However, some of the brand’s recent endeavours in this segment are interesting, and this is one of them. The primary point of interest in the new model lies in its unique aesthetic with a separated sub-dial design that fans of the brand recognise from the Kinetic Chronograph. The new Speedtimer reimagines the design with a smart and highly-functional movement and price tag of well under US$1,000, making it a compelling option for someone seeking an affordable sports chronograph. The Kinetic Chronograph from 1999. Image – Seiko Up to 1/100th of a second Having done away with the original closed dial of the Kinetic Chronograph, the Speedtimer features four registers beneath a curved sapphire crystal. Positioned at six is an oversized sub-dial displaying the time, while a 1/10th of a second chronograph sits at ten. The running seconds can be observed at 12, and a ...

Hands On: Cartier Privé Tank Normale SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Tank Normale Since Jun 4, 2023

Hands On: Cartier Privé Tank Normale

Since its introduction in 2018 with the Tank Cintrée, Cartier Privé has emerged as a favourite of enthusiasts because it delves into the brand’s rich history by reimagining iconic designs. That approach is exemplified in the latest addition to the collection, the Privé Tank Normale. Based on the 1917 original designed by Louis Cartier, the latest incarnation of the Tank Normale matches historical style with a touch of modernity. Initial thoughts Even amongst Cartier’s many famous case designs, the Tank stands out as especially iconic. The very first Tank was the Normale so it was only a matter of time before Cartier revived the original Normale, which had been out of production for some years. The revived Tank Normale was clearly conceived with attention to detail. It looks much like the vintage original, but with a gently modernised dial as well as the heft and refinement of a modern timepiece. One especially pleasing detail that speaks to its creators’ eye for detail is the bevelled sapphire crystal that mimics the glass of the vintage original. A standout feature of the Tank Normale is the bracelet, which is optional and expensive but looks good. Constructed with brick-like links, the bracelet evoke watches from the 1920s. The vintage aesthetic fits the Tank Normale perfectly, but the build quality is solidly modern. This is the first bracelet Cartier has offered for its high-end men’s watches in some time, and hopefully it won’t be the last. As for the cho...

Seiko Introduces the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Jun 2, 2023

Seiko Introduces the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091

Since its relaunch last year, King Seiko has emerged as something of a budget-friendly alternative to Grand Seiko with its straightforward, vintage-inspired designs. Continuing in the same direction are the latest additions to the line, the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091. Most notably, the new models boast a slimmer case compared to their predecessors, thanks to the higher-end cal. 6L35 inside. Despite the tweaks, both retain retro styling that pays homage to the King Seiko “KSK” from 1965. Initial thoughts While last year’s King Seiko models were executed well, I felt they were missing something, particularly in terms of case proportions. They were a little too thick for a vintage-style watch. Therefore, a slimmer version with the more precise cal. 6L35 movement is welcome. The new King Seiko remains conservative in style and almost a vintage remake. However, the case is significantly slimmer at 10.7 mm, compared to over 12 mm for last year’s model. This was achieved with a flattened “box” sapphire crystal and a redesigned case middle with thinner lugs, giving it dimensions better suited to the design.  The SJE091 The only drawback is the price of US$3,300, which is almost double last year’s King Seiko models. While the difference is justified by the improved movement and better case proportions, it might be tough to stomach given the stylistic similarity between the two. A slimmer case The new additions are modelled on the “KSK” model of 1965. They have ...