Time+Tide
Fortis and 100 years of the automatic wristwatch
Invented by John Harwood and produced by Fortis, this major anniversary led us to visit the very room in which the first movements were made.
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Time+Tide
Invented by John Harwood and produced by Fortis, this major anniversary led us to visit the very room in which the first movements were made.
Fratello
There is always something to learn. For instance, did you know that sea stars have a massive depth range, living everywhere from shallow, sunlit intertidal zones to the pitch-black ocean floor? Many species prefer tide pools, but some deep-sea varieties thrive at astonishing depths of up to 9,000 meters (29,500 feet)! Not even the new […] Visit Dive Deep With The Sized-Down Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
The IWC Ingenieur 35 comes in a smaller package – but does it still make the same big impact? Let’s find out! What We Love: A well-wearing compact case Smartly proportioned without compromise Unisex appeal for the size What We Don’t: No micro-adjustment a missed opportunity Butterfly clasp felt fiddly What does IWC want the Ingenieur to be? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 8/10 It’s a small world these days. Rapid communication, travel, and deeply connected economies are bringing everything closer than ever, and people are becoming increasingly accustomed to the appeal of compaction. No industry has been able to completely ignore the effects of downsizing, and in the watch world, that shift couldn’t be more apparent. Once considered the hallmark of vintage taste or dedicated enthusiasm, the small watch has found itself in high demand. More than simply a correction of a trend, consumers are increasingly drawn towards intent and proportion over hyper-tangible, bold statement pieces. Compelling watchmaking is no longer measured by square footage, and brands around the world have shifted to meet consumers where they are. This is especially apparent with the IWC Ingenieur as it exists today. Reimagined by Gerald Genta as a “Jumbo” model measuring 40mm in diameter, Genta’s revision earned fame for its ability to command presence through pragmatic minimalism and bold lines. When IWC re-released the col...
Teddy Baldassarre
They might not be able to wear them at game time, but players brought some serious heat to their wrists off the field. More
Teddy Baldassarre
Follow along with this guide for specs on the best Tissot watches, as determined by our audience.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Three retro Casio MTP-B146 models just hit the US at $110 to $130, featuring a full day-name window at 12 o'clock and slim steel cases.
Monochrome
The crown is one of those watch components we rarely think much about. It has been there for well over a century, mainly performing two essential tasks: winding the movement and setting the time. We now have all sorts of crowns, including hidden crowns and even retractable crowns, yet very few have questioned whether any […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water (sorry), California-based retailer Topper Jewelers has released a limited edition take on Doxa's recently refreshed SUB 200 T.Graph II. This crispy, white-dialed variant comes fast on the heels of Doxa's own re-issue of its legendary dive chronograph. The name "Great White" obviously references the dial color, but is also a tribute to the Bay Area's notorious offshore aquatic apex predators, Carcharodon carcharias, the great white shark. To refresh your memory, the T.Graph was Doxa's first dive chronograph, originally released in 1969 with three dial color versions—Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black), and Searambler (silver). Horological historians tend to agree that only 300 of each color were made, making it a rare and coveted watch for vintage collectors and Doxaphiles. While a limited-edition version was released back in 2017, including a solid-gold variant, Doxa finally rewarded fans last month with the non-limited T.Graph II. This new evolution is a faithful interpretation, but updated with a slimmer case, automatic movement, and a new (for the chronograph) colorway—the Caribbean (blue). Now, in limited numbers, comes the further-evolved "Great White" from Doxa retailer Topper, based in Burlingame, California. This isn't Topper's first foray into Doxa limited editions. Two years ago, the company collaborated with the Swiss brand on a "Great White" SUB 300 that sported a pearly white dia...
Worn & Wound
I want to preface this whole review by stating that I’m not that much of a yachtsman. My last experience on a “yacht” was when I helped a buddy of mine move his sailboat. We needed to move the boat a scant 20 miles. Except that was the distance when traveling by land. Luckily, we live on an island (a Long one) and had some available water to move the boat. 23 hours, nearly 100 miles, too much sun exposure, and many bags of chips later, we made it through a stretch of the Atlantic Ocean around Long Island, then up through NYC’s East River and into the Long Island Sound. On my wrist was a Bertucci Field Watch — not exactly the most suited timepiece for the job, but since we stayed in the boat and out of the water, it worked just fine. Perhaps the journey would have gone a bit smoother had I had the right watch for the job…like the Fears Brunswick Helmsman. If this watch was on wrist, maybe we could have avoided the three hours straight of choppy seas off the Rockaways, remembered to put some more sunscreen on, and not decided to put the sail up five minutes before hitting a random thunderstorm. Fears Watch Co. was much more considerate in designing their Brunswick 40 “Helmsman” – a cushion-cased watch sporting 200 meters of water resistance, a bright white dial, blue accents, and a vibe that’s right at home on a sailboat. Let’s take a closer look at this watch that was designed for “those who find themselves regularly at the helm of a yacht or boat”...
Monochrome
The Carrera Chronograph Glassbox has become one of TAG Heuer‘s most versatile modern collections. Over the past few years, across the 39mm and 41mm cases, we’ve seen everything from classic panda and reverse panda layouts to vibrant purple, teal green and gem-set editions, each giving the watch a distinct personality. The latest version, the sand-coloured […]
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we dive into the world of the modern Rolex Daytona. It’s one of the most debated watches among watch enthusiasts. Whether it’s about the Daytona’s aura, the fact that it’s become an unobtainium, or its design, people have a lot to say about The Crown’s iconic chronograph. Despite all […] Visit The Top 5 Current Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Models to read the full article.
Fratello
I had already been running Fratello for a decade when Mike Stockton asked me in 2014 why we didn’t cover Seiko more often. It’s not that I ignored it on purpose; I was just more focused on Swiss and German brands. Slightly pushed by him, I bought my first Seiko watch. It was a Seiko […] Visit Is It Worth It? — The Praised But Underrated Seiko Marinemaster 300 to read the full article.
Fratello
Indoor cycling? It’s a lot of fun on a velodrome, the perfect place to keep in shape in the wintertime. But indoor cycling tracks are hardly abundant, and especially in winter, riding your bike outdoors in sleet and freezing winds is rough and tough, both physically and mentally. A good option is Zwift, an indoor […] Visit Horology And Indoor Cycling, Made Fun: The Bravur × Zwift Limited Edition to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Roger Dubuis Excalibur “The Kabuto Legacy” transforms the brand’s monumental Excalibur case into a showcase for Japanese history and miniature craftsmanship. Thematically similar to the the Knights of the Round Table (KRT) collection, the samurai-inspired dial centres around a contemporary interpretation of an Edo-period castle with 12 individually hand-engraved pink gold kabuto, each based on the distinctive helmet of a historical warrior. Initial thoughts Watches like the Excalibur Kabuto are not ‘watches’ in the typical sense, and only make sense through an artistic lens. Collectors who spend a lot of time in the spec sheets will likely come away unimpressed, but with only 28 pieces being made, the Excalibur Kabuto represents a sub-segment of haute horlogerie that treats the watch case as a miniature art gallery. While some may be indifferent to the samurai motif, the quality of work — from the hand-engraved helmets on the dial to the laser-engraved precision of the crests in the rotor — is remarkable. Furthermore, the playful minimalism of the Edo castle, which from some angles looks like an enormous faceted sapphire, is an inspired work of miniature architecture. The case is identical to that of the KRT collection. It’s 45 mm and nearly 17 mm thick — height that accommodates a sapphire crystal ring underneath the bezel. This elaborate construction helps flood the miniature sculptures with light and provides a better look at the engraving work. In...
Worn & Wound
Many watches have been named for athletes, explorers, and artists, mostly to boost an air of sportiness, robustness, or sophistication. Still, it’s hard to imagine a more appropriate arena for a wristwatch than the field science as a whole; British brand Bremont agrees, and to celebrate one of the most famous and culturally pervasive scientists of the past two centuries, they have created the Supernova Hawking Limited Edition, named for preeminent thinker, Professor Stephen Hawking. Known more for their mil-spec pieces, Bremont may seem like a strange choice for such a namesake watch, but given their status as a British brand of repute, it makes sense that they’d want to showcase a fellow English pioneer. The base of the Hawking is the Supernova, first launched in April of this year, and boasting a 41mm ultra black DLC-treated steel case with multilayered construction. The geometric aesthetic of the case, pushers, and crown, reflect Hawking’s work in the space engineering field—most notably his groundbreaking research into black holes. Black watches have had a bit of a renaissance as of late, and wear well with almost any other color, so the choice here makes sense from a source-of-inspiration standpoint, as well as an aesthetic one. A black decahedral ceramic bezel surrounds the dial, which in turn features an interlocking, galvanic black grid motif with triangular pathways, inspired by the design of solar arrays. Two meteorite subdials adorn the dial, at 3 an...
Hodinkee
What We Know This year marks 15 years of MB&F;'s M.A.D.Gallery, a unique boutique concept that serves as both a storefront for MB&F;'s wildly inventive horological creations and a showcase of mechanical art from artists around the world (and yes, you can buy those pieces, too). As one of the projects celebrating this anniversary, the folks behind the M.A.D.Gallery has commissioned British designer Martin Smith to create one of the most unique watch winders I've ever seen, in a limited edition of 10 pieces. To say that this is a bit of an unconventional design for a watch winder would be an understatement, and it's something that I can't stop looking at. Designer Martin Smith playing with one of his other kinetic sculptures. The sculptural form of the Solar Orbiter stands at a height of 60cm—that's around two feet tall for us Americans—and spans a width and depth (essentially a diameter of the piece) of 40cm or around 16 inches. In the chaos of the two feet of powder-coated steel, aluminum, brass, wood, and electronics, Smith draws inspiration from the whimsy of pop art, toys, and Eames' iconic Solar Do-Nothing Machine from the fifties to create a spinning, rotating sculpture that is hard to ignore in any room. But most importantly, there is functionality to it all, as part of the spinning arm of the Solar Orbiter holds a watch to perpetually wind as the machine goes on. There are over 300 handmade parts in this piece, and the design certainly doesn't hide any of them. ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Nodus and Raven put forged carbon on the TrailTrekker's bezel and dial, with a lume trick and a $1,075 price. Here's what the fourth chapter changes.
SJX Watches
In the run-up to the 57th anniversary of mankind’s first steps on the moon, Swatch has launched the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969, a watch that follows the proven MoonSwatch formula but enhances the value proposition with a substantial amount of 18k MoonShine gold. In fact, the 11 g of 18k gold contained in the dial, crown, and pushers is worth nearly twice the retail price of the watch at today’s spot price. In addition to the historical “OM” designation found at six o’clock, the dial is also engraved “Au 750” denoting its solid gold construction. Initial thoughts The anniversary of the moon landing, which took place July 21, 1969, is an annual reminder of the Omega Speedmaster’s legendary status as ‘the moon watch’. It’s an old story, but it remains a good one. The MoonSwatch leans heavily on this heritage, and the latest iteration is arguably the greatest, borrowing several aesthetic motifs from the so-called “Nixon” Speedmasters that were gifted to American astronauts and government officials — namely the gold dial and black inlay for the hands and dial markers. Substantively, the Mission to the Moon 1969 is much like any other MoonSwatch, with a plastic case that’s a dead ringer for that of the Speedmaster Professional. An ETA quartz chronograph ticks inside, and the battery — now protected by a scratch-resistant cover — is accessible from the case back. That said, the Mission to the Moon 1969 is an atypical Moon...
Time+Tide
Celebrating the Apollo 11 Moon landing, the MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969 is limited to just 1,969 individually numbered pieces.
Fratello
Swatch did it again! A new Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch was launched at the same time (09:32 AM EDT / 15:32 CEST) as the Saturn V rocket from the Apollo 11 mission in 1969. Swatch has a good feel for historical relevance and released yet another cool MoonSwatch variation. Mission To The Moon 1969 The […] Visit We Have A Lift Off! Meet The New Swatch MoonSwatch Mission To The Moon 1969 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
What We Know It's summertime, which means it's perfect weather to spend some time near, in, or under the water. While I love a good hyper-overbuilt mechanical watch (and definitely want this one), I've come to realize that the best dive watches are probably the no-fuss, affordable ones. If I'm flying to the Bahamas and want to go on a quick dive, I'm going to grab a Citizen (oh wait, I did). With a bunch of new Citizen Eco-Drive divers (more like Eco-Dive, am I right?) rated to 200m, I figured it was time to share some great new picks. While four watches were just launched in Japan, the U.S. is getting three of them. There's a blue gradient dial with a dark blue stainless steel unidirectional bezel (my personal pick), a black dial with a black bezel, and a white dial with a black bezel and an orange seconds hand (and black printing, of course). That last one feels very James Stacey, if I had to guess. The watches are cased in a super-reasonable 40.6mm by 11.5mm stainless steel case with brushed surfaces and polished chamfers. Inside is the Eco-Drive Caliber E118, which has an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month and 12 months of power on a full light-powered charge. The watches are delivered on BENEBiOL straps, a plant-derived biomass urethane. All three options will be available on the Citizen website in the coming days and weeks as deliveries arrive in their US stock. The retail price is $450, so keep checking their shop to make sure you stay on top of when it's availabl...
Time+Tide
The new Bremont Supernova Hawking Limited Edition pairs a stealthy case with various nods to Hawking via black hole-inspired easter eggs.
Fratello
As a traditionalist, I’m not always attracted to modern Haute Horlogerie watches. However, I always have time for new releases from Armin Strom. The independent brand’s attention to detail and supreme movement prowess get my attention. Lately, there have even been smaller models that could fit my wrist if funds allowed. Today’s new Mirrored Force […] Visit Catching Scarlet Fever With The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Red to read the full article.
Monochrome
Reducing the size of dressier watches certainly is a trend, but when it comes to Nomos, the brand has long been a strong advocate of compact cases. The German manufacture has never been shy of proposing 35mm or less cases, even for its more masculine models. After all, presence and style are not reduced to […]
Fratello
Today, we are looking at two spiritual competitors in the dive-watch-chronograph market — the Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II and the Ollech & Wajs Astrochron. Both watches are beefy, tough options for those of us after a dive chronograph, but they have different quirks and design personalities. This article came about after spending considerable time […] Visit The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron Vs. The Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II to read the full article.
Monochrome
First presented in 2021 as the Continuum and later renamed, the C by Romain Gauthier is a bold expression of a sporty-elegant watch by one of the most revered independent watchmakers, a man known for his superlative hand-made movement decoration. A rather strong departure from the complex Logical One, the intricate Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette or […]
Time+Tide
Nodus x Raven collaborate once more for the TrailTrekker Carbon, combining a forged carbon dial and bezel with a true travellers GMT movement
Teddy Baldassarre
Going hands-on with the latest, scaled-down Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37mm in titanium and yellow gold.
Time+Tide
Sartory-Billard introduces the SB04-E Nuances, pairing dynamic sunburst dials with a slim case and the reliable La Joux-Perret movement.
Worn & Wound
This year’s edition of the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago is in the books. As always, the Chicago show played host to a huge variety of brands that covered every imaginable genre of watch, price points up and down the spectrum, and truly offered something for every taste. And as is the case with every Windup these days, it was an opportunity for many brands to debut brand new watches for an audience hungry for something special. There was no shortage of limited edition releases and entirely new watches timed for unveiling at Windup this year, as well as a bunch that launched recently and were getting their first public look. This list is by no means exhaustive, but here are five watches I saw at Windup in Chicago over the weekend that are either brand new or almost new that really stood out to me. Let me know in the comments what I may have missed – even with three days to wander around, I’m sure there are watches I simply didn’t get a chance to see. Vulcain Cricket Titanium There’s just something so charming about the Vulcain Cricket. Alarm watches are an anachronistic niche within an already anachronistic hobby. Setting a mechanical alarm on your watch when simply saying the words “Siri, set an alarm for…” feels like an act of rebellion in the digital age. I’m not sure how many owners of modern (or vintage) Crickets actually use the alarm function for practical purposes (it’s one of the great parlor tricks at a watch meetup, of course) but knowing...
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