Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With Bill Higgins, The Man Who Collects Timepieces In Pairs
Meet the watch-collecting preservation architect responsible for keeping NYC's historic buildings alive.
Results for The Heuer Carrera (1963)
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Up Close: Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph
The latest offering in Montblanc’s high-end chronograph lineup is the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph. In many ways it looks and feels like the Minerva chronographs that came before it. The case remains extra-large because of the pocket watch movement within and it still has a fluted bezel along with cathedral hands. But the Unveiled Secret is totally different from its predecessors, as its movement has been inverted in order to bring the most interesting bits to the front. That required some mechanical rearrangement to accomplish, but manages to realise the desire often expressed by collectors who want to wear a watch with the finely finished movement showcased on the dial. Initial thoughts Hand-wind chronographs have been a specialty of Montblanc, at least for its high-end models, since it acquired Minerva several years ago. Minerva came along with its stable of historical chronograph movements, all traditionally constructed in an elegant, delicate manner, albeit in a slightly anachronistic manner since the calibres mostly dated to the early-20th century. As a result, Montblanc can count several impressive chronographs in its collection, but the Unveiled Secret does it differently. Though the inversion trick has been done before by other hands, the Unveiled Secret is still a little more creative and a little more interesting. It relies on a simple trick: the hands are mounted on what is ordinarily the back of the movement, while the entire mo...
Hodinkee
Watch Of The Week: My Dad and I Each Own A LeCoultre Futurematic - It's The Perfect Symbol For How Our Relationship Has Changed
The founder of Haven Watch Co. on how vintage watches and watchmaking helped him grow closer to his father.
Deployant
New faces for the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet
Blancpain extends their lineup to the Fifty Fathoms collection with the new Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet models - one in red gold and another in titanium.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Rexhep Rexhepi Returns With A Sequel To The Award-Winning Chronomètre Contemporain (Live Pics)
Subtle improvements make a significant impact for the young Akrivia watchmaker.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The BALL Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer 40mm
BALL are a bit of an oddity in the hierarchy of Swiss watches, having enjoyed such a rich history but not always getting the attention they deserve. They’re not exactly a budget brand, but their prices are definitely reasonable, so they fit into a very versatile pocket of luxury. Having been updated with three fresh colour … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The BALL Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer 40mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Racing Against The Clock At The 2022 Mille Miglia
The most beautiful race in the world is also a special passion and long-standing partnership for Chopard.
Time+Tide
Beheadings, vice and a massive harem: The wild inspiration behind the Cartier Pasha
The Pasha of Marrakesh enjoyed a life of barbaric splendour. During the first half of the 20th Century, Thami El Glaoui rose from a tribal warlord in the Atlas Mountains to become one of the richest men in the world. His colossal wealth stemmed from interests in Morocco’s salt and mineral mines compounded with the … ContinuedThe post Beheadings, vice and a massive harem: The wild inspiration behind the Cartier Pasha appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: The New Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon
‘Tis the season for integrated sports watches, and Chopard has been in the thick of it since 2019. The brand’s Alpine Eagle sports watch landed three years ago in catalogues and has never looked back. What began as a time-and-date-only model – inspired by the evocative St. Moritz sports watch from the 1980s – eventuallyRead More
Time+Tide
MICRO-MONDAYS: The Wolkov W22 shapes up with a truly innovative design
You’ve heard of square watches and rectangular watches. Even octagonal watches are essentially common these days. With around a century of experimentation since wristwatches were popularised, there’s not a lot of room left for brands to find something truly original, and yet Wolkov have managed it across all aspects of design. There must be hundreds … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Wolkov W22 shapes up with a truly innovative design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Vincero Watches: The Best Way To Waste $150
Wondering if Vincero Watches are any good? Check out this in-depth review - we cover the brand's origins, construction quality, and more.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The King Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up with gilt features and a champagne dial
The King Seiko era is an often overlooked piece of Seiko’s long and bountiful history. But, as last year marked the 60th anniversary of the King Seiko range’s appearance, there’s been a push to honour it in the best way Seiko know how - with a selection of gorgeous reissues. The latest off the block … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The King Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up with gilt features and a champagne dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HYT reinterpret the classic moonphase with their futuristic Moon Runner Supernova Blue
Watchmaking is a traditional art form, and its heritage often generates a strong connection between client and manufacturer. But we’re in the 21st century now, so to only create designs that are evocative of what we have traditionally seen over the last century would be a disservice. We need pioneers to revisit what it means … ContinuedThe post HYT reinterpret the classic moonphase with their futuristic Moon Runner Supernova Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Wearing The Crown, The Ressence Type 2 E-Crown (Video)
Check out The Watches TV founder Marc-André Deschoux as he explains how the personal watch of Ressence's founder, Benoît Mintiens, works in this video. Mintiens wears the Type 2 e-crown and lent it to our pal Marc-André for several weeks.
Time+Tide
How the Rolex Submariner went from bulletproof tool watch to stone-cold classic
Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. This week it’s the Rolex … ContinuedThe post How the Rolex Submariner went from bulletproof tool watch to stone-cold classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: the new Grand Seiko SBGE285 “Mistflake”
We take a closer look at the newly released Grand Seiko SBGE285 "Mistflake", an extension to their Evolution 9 styling and textured dials.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Cvstos Metropolitan PS Collection offers a fresh take on a luxury sportswatch
Cvstos don’t pop up on the radar of your average watch collector often, but the new collection of Cvstos Metropolitan PS watches is aiming to change that. The idea of a luxury microbrand isn’t all that crazy, and Cvstos aim to hone in on what customers really want from their avant-garde, high-end sports watches. The … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Cvstos Metropolitan PS Collection offers a fresh take on a luxury sportswatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Entry Level: Defeat Your Budget Concerns With The Longines Conquest Automatic
The brand's most affordable automatic is also a solid daily.
SJX Watches
English Independent Garrick Introduces the S5
Having debuted an elaborately open-worked watch in 2014 and then applied its trademark style to something more basic, Garrick has just unveiled its fifth model to date, the S5. Retaining the quintessential elements of Garrick, namely a guilloche dial with Roman numerals and hands with an uncommonly large counterweight, the S5 is essentially a smaller and simpler iteration of Garrick’s earlier models, but it’s an all-new watch in a technical sense. Equipped with a new, in-house movement, the S5 sets itself apart from its predecessors with compact dimensions that make it Garrick’s smallest to date. Initial thoughts The proportions of the S5 are its primary point of appeal. It’s only 39 mm wide and 8 mm tall, making it substantially smaller than the brand’s previous offerings. Those were all 42 mm in diameter, making them too large for the largely elegant and traditional aesthetic. And the large case size also brought to mind similarly styled but less expensive watches equipped with Unitas movements. Along with the reduced size, the S5 is also the brand’s most minimalist watch so far and the first with centre seconds. Given that Garrick’s earlier models all had subsidiary seconds, the centre seconds (and the smaller diameter) makes it clear that the movement within the S5 is different. It is indeed a new calibre, albeit one that wasn’t originally constructed with a centre seconds, which requires means a secondary train was required to reposition the second...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “AMG ONE OWNERS”
If you’ve ever been catching some public transport and spotted someone wearing a six-figure luxury watch, you know the feeling of seeing something extraordinary in an ordinary context. The Mercedes-AMG ONE is possibly the most extreme example of this concept - a hypercar using Formula 1 technology to achieve over 1000 horsepower in a street-legal … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “AMG ONE OWNERS” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: It's Showtime! Watch Spotting At The Apollo Theater Spring Gala
Rub the stump for good luck and let's dive on in.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The blacked out H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Chronograph UNDEFEATED
It’s a Tuesday night in New York City and I’m a few blocks away from Times Square. To anyone on the street, I’m just heading down a set of stairs to the subway. Instead, I’m knocking on an inconspicuous door at the bottom of the first flight of steps. It’s to a small bar called … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The blacked out H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Chronograph UNDEFEATED appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A
It is quite fitting Furlan Marri decided to name their collections “stories”. Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri knew from the outset they had many stories they wanted to tell. And by stories, I mean an effort to carefully roll out different horological visions, or chapters, with the goal of shaking up the notion of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Fortis Marinemaster M-44 has no business being this underrated
Big, bold and built like a tank. That’s the condensed version of the new Fortis Marinemaster M-44, which is a take on the best adventure watch possible by the brand from Grenchen. Normally lauded for their flights to the stratosphere and beyond, the Marinemaster is an under-the-radar choice from an already under-the-radar brand. From the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Fortis Marinemaster M-44 has no business being this underrated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Push A Button For Worldtiming Weirdness With The Oris Holstein Edition 2022 "Full Steel"
The return of an endearing travel complication wrapped in '90s oddball charm.
Deployant
Chatting with the Zenith CEO: Julien Tornare - an insider look into this grand maison
We caught up with Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith recently when he was in Singapore and he gave us some interesting inside look at the grand maison.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Depancel Serie-A Allure is a handsome chronograph at an attractive price
To be honest, there’s no shortage of racing-inspired chronographs in the world. The inherent link between motorsports and watchmaking essentially guarantees that brands will leap on that theme for design, with elements of high-precision engineering and timing-based supremacy binding the two worlds together. So, with the popular genre so saturated, what do the young French … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Depancel Serie-A Allure is a handsome chronograph at an attractive price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the 44GS 55th Anniversary Specially-Adjusted 9F Quartz
Long a leading player in the arena of high-end quartz watches, Grand Seiko’s flagship offering is the 9F quartz movement that is built with an attention to detail comparable to that of its mechanical calibres. Beyond the almost-artisanal production, 9F movements are all about accuracy – the standard movements are rated to within 10 seconds a year. Now Grand Seiko a limited edition equipped with a specially-adjusted 9F calibre, the Heritage Collection 44GS 55th Anniversary SBGP017 “Blue Clouds”. Signified by the star emblem on the dial, the movement within is regulated to run within five seconds a year – an average of less than a half second deviation a month. Initial thoughts Watches with colourful, textured dials are almost the norm at Grand Seiko, which has rolled out enough limited editions that such watches seem almost more common than their plain dial counterparts. The SBGP017 dial has a familiar texture, so at first glance it seems like yet another Grand Seiko limited edition. But a closer look reveals the fact that the SBGP017 is unusual. For one, it’s quartz. Grand Seiko quartz watches rarely have patterned dials and when they do, the dials typically have motifs made up of repeating symbols. In contrast, the abstract pattern found on the SBGP017 is similar to that found on Grand Seiko’s mechanical and Spring Drive models. Put another way, the SBGP017 is an atypical Grand Seiko limited edition because it’s quartz but has the aesthetic of a me...
Time+Tide
The best women’s watches of 2022 so far…
There was a time when a women’s watch could be spotted from a mile away. Unnecessary diamonds, pretentious numerals, overpriced quartz movements and generally lazy design are all hallmarks of the stereotypical “ladies” watch. However, recent years are showing a long-awaited era of exploration from brands who have finally decided to respect feminine diversity. The … ContinuedThe post The best women’s watches of 2022 so far… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Genesis collection from Adam Benedict can actively help you to feel less stressed
What is the main purpose of a watch? Many would say it’s to simply tell us the time. But I think there are too many collectors out there that would beg to differ. In many ways, to them, the true purpose of a watch tends to be quite a personal thing. With that in mind, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Genesis collection from Adam Benedict can actively help you to feel less stressed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.