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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.

Wear The New Bodega x G-Shock 40th Anniversary “Anytime and Anywhere” Worn & Wound
Feb 17, 2023

Wear The New Bodega x G-Shock 40th Anniversary “Anytime and Anywhere”

Boston-based streetwear giant, Bodega, is known for being one of the premier retailers and collaborators in the world of sneakers and fashion since 2006. On February 17th, the brand is releasing their latest collab, and this time it’s one you can wear on your wrist. G-Shock has been in the watch world for a staggering 40 years, and they’ve come up with a heck of a release to celebrate. Based on the original G-Shock, the familiar square DW-5600, this new collar has some added flair that makes it truly something special. Building upon the theme of “Anytime and Anywhere”, the watch draws inspiration from the global reach that both brands have. The ability to throw on a G-Shock and have it work anytime and anywhere rings true to the theme. Instead of the standard matte black resin, the case and bracelet are crafted from a smoke gray translucent resin that adds some depth to the design. They’ve also incorporated a steel bumper bar to add an extra rugged touch. Co-branding on the dial is complete with gold and red accents that really pop off the rest of the gray watch. One of the coolest parts of this collaboration is the old school globe design that’s rendered in red on a green background when the backlight is activated. Flip the watch over and the globe motif is repeated on the engraved case back. This watch comes with the classic resin band and a unique additional strap with a built-in carabiner. Make use of the included tool and extra set of endlinks, and you can...

Tool/Kit: Surfcasting on Long Island’s South Shore with the Recycled Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Automatic Calanda Worn & Wound
Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Automatic Feb 17, 2023

Tool/Kit: Surfcasting on Long Island’s South Shore with the Recycled Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Automatic Calanda

Surfcasting is one of those things that took over a lot of my free time, and fast. My most frequent form of fishing is typically with a fly rod, standing in a relatively calm river somewhere gently presenting flies to willing trout. Surfcasting is the opposite. You’re standing in the ocean, waves crashing around you, often in the hours after sunset or before dawn. It feels a little crazy packing up and heading down to the beach at some absurd hour that you’d usually be sound asleep, but if the tides look good, you text your fishing buddy, pound a cup of coffee, and fight off the tired for a few hours hoping you’ll end up with a fish on the end of your line. For this trip that we documented, the watch on my wrist was the Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Automatic Calanda. Its angular case is crafted from a unique 100% recycled steel that is sourced primarily from the maritime shipping industry. It’s interesting how the watch starts off serving one purpose in the ocean, and ends up back where it started, this time it’s on your wrist. The dial features a glossy black finish with applied indices, each filled with old radium lume that glows nice and bright while the sun is still below the horizon. The seconds hand is accented with a bright red triangle that picks up on the “SEASTRONG” text on the dial. Surrounding the dial is a unidirectional rotating bezel with a brushed finish. The textured edge is easy to grab and turn, even with a thick pair of neoprene gloves on. T...

Donald Trump shares his thoughts on the Rolex Submariner with us. Well, sort of… Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner Feb 17, 2023

Donald Trump shares his thoughts on the Rolex Submariner with us. Well, sort of…

No, we did not actually speak with former president Donald Trump. The below – where we asked AI to review the Rolex Submariner in the style of Donald Trump – is actually another reflection of how much the ChatGPT technology is evolving. Since we did this earlier in the week, the AI has since been updated to … ContinuedThe post Donald Trump shares his thoughts on the Rolex Submariner with us. Well, sort of… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Rosa Mystica is the ultimate late Valentine’s Day gift Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Rosa Mystica Feb 17, 2023

The Parmigiani Fleurier Rosa Mystica is the ultimate late Valentine’s Day gift

Second in a series of five piece uniques from the Grand Feu Collection Cathedral gongs, continuous chiming sequence and extensive skeletonisation Grand feu enamel on the hunter’s caseback and signature engraving of the white gold case The latest in a series of five piece uniques hailing from the Grand Feu Collection is the Parmigiani Fleurier … ContinuedThe post The Parmigiani Fleurier Rosa Mystica is the ultimate late Valentine’s Day gift appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Has Forgotten More Winter Themed Watches than You’ll Ever Know. Why the SBGJ217 is a Worthy Addition to a Growing List of Snowy Dials Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Has Forgotten More Winter Feb 16, 2023

Grand Seiko Has Forgotten More Winter Themed Watches than You’ll Ever Know. Why the SBGJ217 is a Worthy Addition to a Growing List of Snowy Dials

Let’s not beat around the bush: Grand Seiko releases a lot of watches. As the brand has grown, their release strategy has been, well, aggressive, with new references piling up on old before we can gather our thoughts to write about them. While some might criticize Grand Seiko for flooding the market and potentially watering down their brand name, I’ve always been of the opinion that that’s a very silly take coming from a watch enthusiast. More watches are better. Choice is good. Keep them coming.  But it does create something of a conundrum for those of us writing about new releases here at Worn & Wound. We can’t possibly cover everything, so how do we decide which watches to devote a post to, and which ones to skip. There are a lot of factors at play, but mostly it comes down to a combination of striving to provide readers with content we think they’ll find interesting and informative, and asking ourselves the eternal question: Do I have something interesting to say about this watch? These things don’t always come together immediately. As any watch enthusiast knows, it can take time to get your arms around something to the point where you can form a coherent opinion on it. When the SBGJ217 was announced, it didn’t immediately make its way to the editorial calendar. I thought this might be a Grand Seiko release that we skip, or maybe just discuss on a podcast. But I’ve been marinating on it over the last week, and the more I looked at that dial and conside...

THE UNSUNG: Unearthing bargain treasures in vintage stopwatches Time+Tide
Feb 16, 2023

THE UNSUNG: Unearthing bargain treasures in vintage stopwatches

We don’t talk about vintage a lot at Time + Tide, unless it’s a Very Big Deal, such as a record-breaking auction result. But what about the vintage watches that fly under the radar? Bargains are out there if you’re willing to put in the effort. To wit: vintage stopwatches are a fun, cool piece … ContinuedThe post THE UNSUNG: Unearthing bargain treasures in vintage stopwatches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Blancpain Celebrates 70 Years of the Fifty Fathoms with Tech Gombessa Worn & Wound
Blancpain Celebrates 70 Years Feb 16, 2023

Blancpain Celebrates 70 Years of the Fifty Fathoms with Tech Gombessa

This year marks the 70th anniversary of one of the most important dive watches ever made, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. To celebrate the occasion, Blancpain will be releasing a trio of Fifty Fathom “Acts”, the first of which was released in January featuring a new 42mm case. The second act of this anniversary year is celebrating Blancpain’s 10 year relationship with Gombessa diving expeditions, and the release of the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa watch, a modern take on the platform built with a specific purpose in mind. We got our hands on the Tech Gombessa during its launch (which was hosted by our friend Jason Heaton), and discovered a few surprising takeaways.  To fully appreciate the Tech Gombessa, an understanding of the Gombessa diving expeditions is in order. Led by highly decorated wildlife photographer and diver (and Nikon ambassador), Laurent Ballesta, the Gombessa expeditions have studied some of the most elusive marine life and phenomenon on earth. The goals of these expeditions are centered around three pillars: a scientific mystery, a diving challenge and the promise of unprecedented images. To date, there have been five such expeditions, all underwritten by Blancpain, and each producing a wealth of knowledge and stunning visuals. Ballesta was named Wildlife Photographer of the Year in 2017, 2021, and 2022 for his efforts. In order to study and capture the underwater locations and wildlife, the team utilizes closed-circuit rebreather diving techniques, a...

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa is “a pure diving instrument” for the modern age Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa Feb 16, 2023

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa is “a pure diving instrument” for the modern age

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa presents a world-first three-hour timing bezel The “absolute black” dial captures almost 97% of the light to make the lume pop and enhance underwater legibility The release continues the 70th birthday celebrations of the Fifty Fathoms Laurent Ballesta is the closest thing we have to a modern-day Jacques Costeau. The … ContinuedThe post The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa is “a pure diving instrument” for the modern age appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Autodromo Enters a New Class with the Group C Worn & Wound
Feb 15, 2023

Autodromo Enters a New Class with the Group C

Automotive inspired watches are never easy to pull off, but if there’s one brand that’s consistently done just that, it’s undoubtedly Autodromo. Their watches, from the Vallelunga to the Group B, all convey a deep knowledge and passion of the underlying inspiration in ways that aren’t always immediately apparent. Whether it’s the shape of the curvature of the case, or a specific colorway used, these watches go above and beyond what you’d expect. Today, Autodromo opens a new chapter in this story with the release of the Group C, a watch that will sit alongside the Group B, all while imparting a very different impression of the racing classes for which they are named.  Group C as a category of racing was introduced by the FIA in 1982, and would produce some of the most iconic endurance racing cars of all time before its shuttering in 1993. Certainly defining cars of their era, which included the likes of the Jaguar XJR-8, the Sauber C9, the Porsche 956, and of course, the screaming Mazda 787B. These cars all came in something of a transition period for racing cars, with a slew of new rules and regulations meant to bring the sport more inline with Formula 1 quickly ushering in the class’ demise just prior to the 1993 championship race was due to be run at Magny Cours (though the cars were allowed entry to the 1994 running of the 24 Hours of LeMans, and would take the top 4 spots overall, with the Porsche 962 car 36 taking the win). This is the deep pool from wh...

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts their First In-House Movement with the New AdC22 Worn & Wound
Feb 15, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts their First In-House Movement with the New AdC22

Last month, Atelier de Chronometrie, the Spanish independent brand led by one time vintage watch dealer Santiago Martinez, began teasing something that could only be described as unexpected: a new movement. Atelier de Chronometrie had, in a very short period of time, built a name for themselves almost entirely on the basis of expertly restoring and luxuriously finishing classic vintage movements, and using them in thoughtfully designed watches inspired primarily by timepieces of the 1930s and 40s. The brand offers a high level of customization, with clients able to dial in little details as they see fit, effectively making each watch coming out of the atelier a piece unique, or very close to it. This was a niche that didn’t really exist before Atelier de Chronometrie, at least at the very high end, and they’ve absolutely owned it. Now, with the release of the AdC22 less than a month after that initial social media tease, a new caliber bearing the brand’s name has opened up all kinds of new possibilities for Atelier de Chronometrie’s future.  The new movement, dubbed the M284 and described as “in-house” by the brand, was developed in partnership with independent watchmaker Luca Soprana. The caliber has been designed to resemble classic hand wound calibers from the 1940s, both in appearance and function. The construction, featuring small bridges for the going train, a large plate with hand applied côtes de Genève, and an exposed balance beating at a vintage ap...

High-end and high-tech GMT duo: The Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion SBGC253 and Yukigesho SBGJ271 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion SBGC253 Feb 15, 2023

High-end and high-tech GMT duo: The Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion SBGC253 and Yukigesho SBGJ271

Another week, another couple of impressively featured Grand Seiko releases. Today’s offerings include an until-now limited edition-only chronograph and an addition to the Elegance GMT collection. The former, taking inspiration from the mighty lion emblazoned on Grand Seiko’s logo, is the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC253, dubbed the Tokyo Lion, extending the large feline inspiration … ContinuedThe post High-end and high-tech GMT duo: The Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion SBGC253 and Yukigesho SBGJ271 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Withstand the heat with the new TAG Heuer Carrera x Porsche Orange Racing Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera x Porsche Orange Feb 15, 2023

HANDS-ON: Withstand the heat with the new TAG Heuer Carrera x Porsche Orange Racing

The sun sets at the 24 hours of Le Mans. It’s your umpteenth time around the track. And, as you make your way down the Mulsanne Straight, the sparks from your Porsche 911 RSR light up the night sky. That’s the image Porsche and TAG Heuer had in mind with their newest release, the fiery … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Withstand the heat with the new TAG Heuer Carrera x Porsche Orange Racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Brellum Throws Their Hat into the GMT Ring with the Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer Worn & Wound
Feb 14, 2023

Brellum Throws Their Hat into the GMT Ring with the Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer

Brellum is an up and coming independent brand that prides itself on its rich familial history in watchmaking. Founder Sebastian Muller can trace his family lineage of watchmakers all the way back to his great grandfather who set up his very own shop in 1910. The rest, as they say, is history. Brellum exists today with the intention of continuing the Mueller legacy by producing highly-crafted timepieces that, not only present with a thoughtful design for the modern day wearer, but to pay homage to their family’s passion for traditional Swiss watchmaking. Their surname is an anagram in the brand’s namesake afterall. Recently, the brand announced a very limited run of a handsome pilot’s chronograph equipped with a GMT function with the Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer. The dial is where the Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer shows a whole lot of flash without straying too far away from the traditional pilot’s watch aesthetic. And by flash, I mean that opalin silver-now dial. From the images, it seems that this dial has its own character all on its own, displaying a luster against radiant lighting, and then a more toned down matted white in neutral lighting. All of the dial markings use black as the main color for unmistakable legibility including the minute track, 24 hour display bordering the outer portion of the dial, and applied numeral hour markers. The subdials take up dial real-estate at six, twelve and nine with a date window sneaking into the six o’clock s...

Fratello and Aquastar Team Up for a Very Limited Version of the Deepstar II with an Ice Blue Dial Worn & Wound
Tudor Feb 14, 2023

Fratello and Aquastar Team Up for a Very Limited Version of the Deepstar II with an Ice Blue Dial

The Aquastar Deepstar II is the latest watch to get the limited edition treatment from our friends over at Fratello, and it might be the nicest looking iteration yet on the unapologetically vintage inspired diver. We first told you about the Deepstar II back in late 2021, when the watch made its debut in the afterglow of the cult favorite Deepstar Chronograph. These watches have an abundance of charm thanks to a well thought out asymmetry, excellent use of key vintage cues, and a size that is literally just about perfect for a watch of this style. As we pointed when the Deepstar II first came to our attention, dial color plays an outsize role in how the watch lands, and that holds true with the new Fratello version, which is very much the Deepstar we’ve come to know, but with nicely curated touches that give it a fresh life.  The word of the day when describing the Deepstar II is, without a doubt, “compact.” If you’re accustomed to big, bruising modern divers from Seiko, Tudor, and the like, strapping Deepstar II to your wrist will feel somewhat alien at first. The case measures 36.7mm wide and just 46mm lug to lug, but it’s 13mm thick, which makes these watches wear squat on the wrist with a presence you wouldn’t expect from the listed dimensions. Aquastar has always framed the Deepstar II as a thought experiment of sorts, imagining the type of diver the brand would have followed up the Deepstar Chronograph with back in the late 60s (unlike the chrono, this d...

Excelsior Park Introduces “The Soda Fountain” for Perpétuel SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Feb 14, 2023

Excelsior Park Introduces “The Soda Fountain” for Perpétuel

Since it was founded three years ago, Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel has released a number of well-applauded limited editions focused on up-and-coming independents and micro brands. It first began with the French brand Baltic through a limited release of the HMS and Bicompax, and more recently, the MR-01 Perpétuel, their spin on the brand’s best-selling micro-rotor wristwatch. The retailer has now tapped the services of Excelsior Park, a legacy brand that is based on the former watch company known for producing chronograph movements for the likes of Gallet, Girard-Perregaux and Zenith. After numerous failed attempts at reviving the brand in the 1980s and the 2000s, it was relaunched by watch industry veteran Guillaume Laidet who previously spearheaded the resurrection of legacy brands Nivada Grenchen and, more recently, Vulcain. After releasing a limited edition with a salmon dial that immediately sold out last year, they have teamed up once again to debut their latest collaboration in The Soda Fountain Edition, a limited release of the Excelsior EP95004 chronograph featuring a vibrant blue dial completed with applied Eastern-Arabic numerals. Initial thoughts The relaunch of Excelsior Park two years ago was kind of a godsend for vintage watch enthusiasts, given its long and rich history as a renowned movement maker. Since its rebirth, the brand has been carving itself a niche market catering towards a younger demographic who desire that vintage-styled watches but a...

New dials and dimensions for the King Seiko 110th Anniversary Time+Tide
Seiko 110th Anniversary Though Feb 14, 2023

New dials and dimensions for the King Seiko 110th Anniversary

Though the story of Seiko began almost 150 years ago, the first wristwatch wouldn’t come until three decades later, in 1913 with the Seiko Laurel. The brand recently paid homage to that exact piece with a modern re-issue, but the celebrations didn’t stop there. Despite the fact that King Seiko is no longer the brand … ContinuedThe post New dials and dimensions for the King Seiko 110th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On with the Rugged, Adventure-Ready, Gavox Longitude Worn & Wound
Feb 13, 2023

Hands-On with the Rugged, Adventure-Ready, Gavox Longitude

Based in Belgium, Gavox was early on the micro-brand scene, launching in 2011 with their first watches crossing our desks in 2013. But it’s been a little while since we last had a Gavox in the office for review. In December 2019, they launched a 36mm pilot’s watch with a quartz movement and a “dirty dozen” appeal. As we all know, shortly after, life changed quite a bit. But Gavox persisted if quietly, making a bold return in late 2022 with the announcement of a new and ambitious watch powered by the equally exciting Miyota 9075 “flyer” GMT. Called the Longitude, it’s a fresh take on the integrated bracelet sports watch, combining a handful of timely trends into a well-specced-out package. Named to inspire a sense of exploration, it also has a personal connection Michael Happé, the founder of the brand. A descendant of Dirk Hartog, a 17th-century Dutch explorer who is credited as the first Western European to set foot in Australia, the watch celebrates this connection. Despite the historical and seemingly nautical roots of the Longitude, the watch itself is a very modern expression of adventure. Available in four colors at launch, including an entirely black DLC version, the Longitude has a final price tag of $1122, but is available for pre-order at $762 through March, 2023. $1122 Hands-On with the Rugged, Adventure-Ready, Gavox Longitude Case Kolsterized Steel Movement Miyota 9075 Dial Faceted Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Integrated Bracelet Water Resistance...

Editorial: An Appraisal of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Universelle SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile are Feb 13, 2023

Editorial: An Appraisal of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Universelle

Audemars Piguet recently launched more than a dozen new models and predictably it was the Royal Oaks that got the most attention. But the most impressive new release was unquestionably the Code 11.59 Universelle. It’s a grand complication that boasts multiple complications most cleverly executed, in a remarkably compact case – the size of the watch is an achievement in itself. Though the Universelle is positively slender for a grand complication, it’s still a large watch. But criticising the Universelle for its somewhat ungainly looks is to miss the point completely. Just like a mid-engine Ferrari will never be a roomy vehicle capable of conveying four adults in comfort, a grand complication will never be a svelte watch. Even Francois-Paul Journe, a legendary talent who has long specialised in slim complications, needs a lot of volume to contain his most complicated watch, the double-sided Astronomic Souveraine. Grand complications, or more specifically mega complications, like the Universelle, are never pretty. That’s simply a matter of necessity – the mechanical complexity inevitably results in an enormous case and confusing dial. The F.P. Journe Astronomic, Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, and Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile are all equally large and confusing. The Astronomic is the smallest of the lot and it’s still 44 mm by 13.7 mm. And the Grandmaster Chime is a titanic 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. I can confirm the Grandmaster Chime is titanic no matter ho...

In Conversation with Raynald Aeschlimann About the New Omega Speedmaster Super Racing Spirate Revolution
Omega Speedmaster Super Racing Spirate Feb 13, 2023

In Conversation with Raynald Aeschlimann About the New Omega Speedmaster Super Racing Spirate

Technical innovation has always been at the heart of Omega. From the Speedmaster being the first watch to be flight-qualified by NASA for manned space flight to the industrialisation of the co-axial escapement, Omega remains at the vanguard of pushing the boundaries of watchmaking. 10 years in the making, Omega’s new Spirate hairspring system takes […]

MICRO MONDAYS: The triumphant story of the Fears Brunswick Time+Tide
Fears Feb 13, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The triumphant story of the Fears Brunswick

Some extinct brands that get revived for the modern mechanical boom are often raised in mystery, bought out by private companies who heap glory on their adopted heritage to distract from the lack of modern substance. Fears is the direct opposite of that, not only being reincarnated by a member of the original family but … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The triumphant story of the Fears Brunswick appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week in Watches Ep. 36 – AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Citizen Seiko Feb 12, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 36 – AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph

Welcome to episode 36 of A Week in Watches! We tackle a packed week of news from the likes of Audemars Piguet, Citizen, Seiko, and the return of Meraud with an incredibly charming chronograph called the Antigua. Audemars Piguet dropped plenty of new watches on the world this week, including their most complicated watch ever, the RD4 in the Code 11:59 body. Read more of our thoughts on the new AP releases right here. Seiko revealed a new movement in a trio of new King Seiko references, as well as a special 110th Anniversary King Seiko with a beautiful geometric brown dial. Finally, we discuss a sophomore release from the brand Meraud, who impressed us with their Antigua, a colorful hand wound chronograph with a rather unexpected movement. You can read more of our thoughts on this watch in this hands-on review. Catch all this and more in the full episode below, and be sure to subscribe for more great watch content. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 36 – AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.