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Results for Quickset Date

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Quickset Date

Two-position crown for setting the date independently of the time. Rolex Cal. 3035 (1977) → Cal. 3135 → modern standard.

Zenith Introduces the Next-Generation El Primero A386 SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jun 29, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Next-Generation El Primero A386

Though Zenith celebrated the 50th anniversary of its iconic chronograph movement in 2019, it took a while longer for the long-awaited successor to the original El Primero. Looking like yet another remake on the surface – the design is almost a dead ringer for the A386 of 1969 – the retro styling of the new Chronomaster Original belies the latest-generation El Primero, the all-new cal. 3600 that boasts a lightning seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Chronomaster Original essentially repackages the vintage A386, preserving the distinctive design while installing a modern movement. As a result, the watch is familiar and appealing in broad strokes, but has a few surprises in its details. Take the dials for instance, which are offered in two guises. One is the traditional “tri-colour” from 1969, while the other is an unusual and gorgeous “panda” dial that stands out from its counterparts. Ironically, the black-and-silver dial looks more retro, in part due to the faux-vintage lume, despite not having the original colour palette. The case is a compact 38 mm, identical to the vintage original. It’s heartening – but surprising – to see the return of the 38 mm case, which was ostensibly retired not too long ago. The move back to the 38 mm case makes sense, since it accommodates enthusiasts who prefer a size true to the vintage original, as well as catering to prevailing fad for classical, elegant style. Despite the case being the same diameter as it was in 1969, t...

Extra time: Which Euro 2020 manager has the best watch? Time+Tide
Jun 18, 2021

Extra time: Which Euro 2020 manager has the best watch?

International football is beset with stubborn clichés about the playing styles of different nations. We think of France’s “Gallic flair”, the “Teutonic efficiency” of Germany, Holland’s “total football” and England’s reliable ineptitude when the stakes get high. These stereotypes persist even while their actual veracity may be outdated. But what about the style choices of … ContinuedThe post Extra time: Which Euro 2020 manager has the best watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Debuts the Type XXI 3815 Limited Edition SJX Watches
Breguet Debuts Jun 17, 2021

Breguet Debuts the Type XXI 3815 Limited Edition

While Breguet is associated with classical timepieces – and a history laden with gems that continue to inspire watchmakers today – it does have a significant history with military watches. In the mid-20th century, Breguet, along with a few other watchmakers, supplied the French military with the “Type 20” aviator’s chronograph. Breguet has referenced that military history since the military-inspired Type XX of 1994, which was succeeded by the more complex Type XXI and Type XXII. And now Breguet has just unveiled the Type XXI 3815, which has a titanium case and strikingly peculiar dials in two colours. The version with orange “lume” is especially striking Initial thoughts Breguet has been iterating the Type 20 for almost 30 years – rumour has it a replacement for the base model is due next year – and the Type XXI was an upgrade to the original that never gained the popularity of the original. The new Type XXI 3815 is the third variant of the model to date, and perhaps a missed opportunity. Most elements on the watch are taken from historical models, each correct on its own way – including faux-radium lume and a “big eye” register – but combined haphazardly. The result is an aesthetic that tries to be bold but ends up looking odd. The combination of elements on the dial leaves it off balance. The “big eye” counter feels too big, creating the impression it is far off centre, while the text under 12 o’clock leaves the dial top heavy. Add to t...

Vintage Mido owned by Bugatti founder sells for $420,000 at auction Time+Tide
Mido Apr 20, 2021

Vintage Mido owned by Bugatti founder sells for $420,000 at auction

When Mido makes headlines for an auction result, you know it must be a special watch, and over the weekend a very special watch was sold. What was the watch? Well, it was a piece produced at the request of Ettore Bugatti, the Italian-born French founder of the eponymous automotive manufacturer. This specific watch, dated … ContinuedThe post Vintage Mido owned by Bugatti founder sells for $420,000 at auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection delivers a skeletonised update Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Mar 31, 2021

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection delivers a skeletonised update

How do you update a classic? It’s a problem that many designers face, whether they work in the watch industry, automotives or product design. How do you retain the original idea behind a design and still bring it forward into the here and now? This is a question that the Rado Captain Cook designers must … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection delivers a skeletonised update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H combines retro swagger with a mechanical movement Time+Tide
Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H combines Mar 14, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H combines retro swagger with a mechanical movement

We really should have seen the Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H coming. Having played with the idea before, this hand-wound, bi-register chrono – in beautifully proportioned panda and reverse panda dial variants – sees Hamilton effectively resurrect and update its first chronograph. The modern Intra-Matic Chronograph H is compelling in either dial, taking direct inspiration from … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H combines retro swagger with a mechanical movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Put the petal to the metal with the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black Time+Tide
Bulgari Hublot Jan 30, 2021

INTRODUCING: Put the petal to the metal with the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black

It’s late January, which means it’s LVMH Watch Week, an event where the watch departments of Bulgari, Hublot and Zenith unleash their new novelties for the year. For Hublot in 2021, we enjoyed a number of updates to existing collections, including a totally new colour of sapphire crystal in the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic, a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Put the petal to the metal with the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer Collection is updated and ready for 21st century space flight Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer Jan 28, 2021

VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer Collection is updated and ready for 21st century space flight

To update an icon, Omega have always understood that the path must be evolution rather than revolution. So what did they do on the first Speedy Tuesday of 2021? They showed the world what the next step was down the path of the Speedmaster Moonwatch. Eight new references were announced, including options in Sedna gold … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer Collection is updated and ready for 21st century space flight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Quantifying Performance and Trade-Offs in Movement Design Part II SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona Dec 4, 2020

In-Depth: Quantifying Performance and Trade-Offs in Movement Design Part II

Previously, in Part I of this series, we analysed and reviewed over 40 watch movements in terms of their potential chronometric performance – via the Horological Density Factor (HDF), which encompasses balance power and power reserve against the size of the movement – and debated the various trade-offs that had been made in order to achieve specific technical or aesthetic characteristics. Many readers then asked how more commonly known and accessible movements compare. To answer that we needed more data from the industry. Fortunately, Swiss movement makers Valjoux, Fabrique d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon, Unitas, as well as their parent company Ebauches SA – now all part of ETA – once published beautifully comprehensive, detailed data sheets that included balance wheel inertia values. Armed with this data, we have been able to analyse and plot a further 25 movements alongside the previous group (with the disclaimer that it might not be fully up to date since the data sheets date from before the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s) to give a total of 68 to allow further investigation and review. The analysis Several popular movements have been added: the workhorse ETA 2824-1 and -2, the ubiquitous ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph, the large diameter ETA Unitas 6497-1 and -2, and the ETA Peseux 7001. We also added, among others, the integrated chronograph cal. 4130 in the Rolex Daytona, and the modular chronograph versions of both the ETA 2892 (known as the ETA 2894) as well as...

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Ghost SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Nov 23, 2020

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Ghost

One of the earliest entrants in the luxury-sports watches segment, the Girard-Perragaux Laureato made its debut in 1975. But the model did not remain in production consistently, and only recently enjoyed a revival with a relaunch in 2017. With its relaunch, the Laureato line up now includes complications like the tourbillon, exotic case materials like sapphire, and onyx stone dials. The latest is perhaps the most striking version to date: the Laureato Ghost that was designed in collaboration with Bamford Watch Department (BWD) and rendered entirely in white ceramic. George Bamford with the Laureato Ghost Founded by George Bamford, the fashion and watch entrepreneur who’s the son of construction-equipment tycoon Sir Anthony Bamford, BWD started out as an after-market customiser of Rolex watches and swiftly became one of the preeminent brands in that niche. But BWD has since evolved into an officially-endorsed customiser (albeit not by Rolex), having received the stamp of approval from various watchmakers, most notably from the brands owned by LVMH, namely TAG Heuer and Zenith. The Laureato Ghost is the first collaboration between BWD and Girard-Perregaux (GP), having been rolled out for the 45th anniversary of the Laureato, explaining the small, 45-piece run. Initial thoughts Named Ghost because of its singular colour palette, the watch is attractive in its simplicity. BWD’s house style is often characterised by an all-black finish, making the all-white Laureato Ghos...

Is the Omega Aqua Terra 150M Master Chronometer the overlooked perfect daily watch? Time+Tide
Omega Aqua Terra 150M Master Nov 15, 2020

Is the Omega Aqua Terra 150M Master Chronometer the overlooked perfect daily watch?

When people think of Omega, the usual suspects are the Omega Speedmaster and Seamaster. But the truth is the catalogue is so much more than those two collections. The Aqua Terra is an unsung hero, and is arguably Omega’s answer to the Datejust – but with even more technical prowess. These watches feature casual builds with professional-level technology … ContinuedThe post Is the Omega Aqua Terra 150M Master Chronometer the overlooked perfect daily watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Finally…! The Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel with blue dial captured in glorious high definition here Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel Oct 22, 2020

VIDEO: Finally…! The Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel with blue dial captured in glorious high definition here

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo has seen the update it was waiting for this year, with the announcement in January that it was going to be produced in steel. The months since that announcement have felt both very slow and very fast at the same time, and some may have missed that the Bulgari Octo Finissimo … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Finally…! The Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel with blue dial captured in glorious high definition here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Moinet Introduces the Space Revolution SJX Watches
Breguet Moinet remains less famous Sep 23, 2020

Louis Moinet Introduces the Space Revolution

Established in 2004, Louis Moinet takes its name from a pioneering, 19th century French watchmaker. A contemporary of Abraham-Louis Breguet, Moinet remains less famous than the inventor of the tourbillon, though his recognition got a boost in 2013 when it was discovered that Moinet had invented the chronograph in 1816. Today, the resurrected name focuses on complicated watches that usually feature novel movements and often incorporate uncommon materials. The latest from Louis Moinet – and one of its most complicated watches to date – is the Space Revolution, which is equipped with twin orbiting spaceships as well as twin flying tourbillons. Initial thoughts As astronomical-theme watches go, the Space Revolution is one of the easiest to understand, because it’s not an astronomical complication, but rather an astronomical theme with a generous dose of sci-fi. The twin orbital oscillators are the most impressive element of the movement. While they probably add nothing to its timekeeping, they are complicated to execute and make for quite a mechanical performance. While the theme and technical execution are interesting – but not entirely new – the watch resembles other contemporary complications in that it is big, thick, and mechanically sci-fi in appearance. The complication and form definitely bring to mind the Jacob & Co. Astronomia, which is not a bad thing since the Astronomia is one of the defining watches in the segment of over-the-top complications with mode...

Hamilton Introduces the Khaki Aviation Converter SJX Watches
Breitling s Navitimer but used Sep 17, 2020

Hamilton Introduces the Khaki Aviation Converter

Once an American watchmaker that was a global giant, Hamilton is today a Swiss brand best known for its value-proposition, vintage-inspired watches – and providing watches for several Hollywood films. Its speciality is exemplified by watches like the Khaki Field Mechanical, a robust, military-style watch that costs less than US$500. Hamilton has just unveiled a new collection of affordable pilot’s watches, the Khaki Aviation Converter. The line up is made up of three watches – time and date, GMT, and chronograph – all equipped with a slide-rule bezel for cockpit calculations and conversions. From left: the base model automatic, the GMT, and the chronograph in two variants Initial thoughts As with the most of the watches in the Khaki collection, the Converter is appealing in design and no doubt solidly, if simply, constructed. While it might not be the most original in design – the slide-rule bezel is synonymous with Breitling’s Navitimer but used by many brands – the Converter is strong value. Starting at US$995 for the automatic and rising to US$2,145 for chronograph, the collection is a good entry into watches featuring a slide-rule bezel. The bezel features double-row knurling for good grip The generic design aside, it is heartening to see that attention has been paid to the details. With the large, luminous hands and contrasting colours, legibility appears good. The movements are visible through the case back, something that can be captivating for a beg...

Frederique Constant Introduces the Highlife Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Frederique Constant Introduces Sep 10, 2020

Frederique Constant Introduces the Highlife Perpetual Calendar

Long focused on affordable mechanical watches, Frederique Constant continued with its specialty after its acquisition by Japanese watchmaking giant Citizen. Now the Swiss brand has just revived its bestseller from two decades ago, the Highlife collection, which has been redesigned extensively. It’s a new watch in all but name – the revamped Highlife harks back to the integrated-strap of the original, but it is a design very much catered to today’s taste. The Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture The new Highlife collection debuts with three models that share the same tonneau-shaped case and integrated bracelet with quick-release pins. The most interesting watch of the trio is the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, which is affordable despite its in-house movement and styling that’s reminiscent of more expensive watches. The other two models in the line up are simple automatics: one is time-only with an “Open Heart” dial revealing the balance wheel, and the other is a COSC-certified three-hander with date. Highlife Automatic COSC The Highlife Heart Beat Initial thoughts The Highlife manages to translate the look of high-end luxury-sports watches into an affordable watch by keeping a few design elements and simplifying everything. It is unavoidably derivative in style, but competently designed. So the 41 mm case is a simple affair with simple lines and surfaces, but dressed up with a polished, domed bezel. However, it avoids looking too plain even with t...

Rolex Introduces the Submariner 41 mm SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Sep 1, 2020

Rolex Introduces the Submariner 41 mm

Rolex last did a major revamp for its iconic dive watch in 2012, when it introduced the ceramic insert bezel and beefier case. Eight years later the Submariner is once again refashioned and upgraded. It still retains the classic look that has changed little since the 1950s, but in typical Rolex style the new Submariner 41 mm boasts many incremental improvements, across the case, bracelet, and movement. The Submariner 41 mm is making its debut with eight different models, ranging from the no-date base model to the all-gold version, all powered by the cal. 3235 (except for the no-date that has the cal. 3230 inside). The Submariner ref. 124060 “no date” Initial thoughts The most monumental change – albeit one that is more obvious on paper than in person – is the upsized case. Forty-one millimetres is a first for the Submariner, with the preceding models having been being 40 mm for decades. However, the increase in size was not executed in isolation. The rest of the case was remodelled to fit, as was the bracelet, resulting in a pleasing, well-proportioned watch that doesn’t look as large as it sounds, and actually feels slimmer than it is. New movements Although everything about the new Submariner is new, arguably the most substantive change is the movement. The new models are the first Submariners to feature the current-generation cal. 3235 for the first time, although Rolex has been progressively installing new movements across the range for several years now. T...

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II White, a geometric ice palace for the wrist Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu Aug 16, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II White, a geometric ice palace for the wrist

Hublot’s Big Bang series has always been slightly outrageous since its 2005 release, but intentionally so. Large, loud, and undoubtedly luxurious, there could be no better candidate for a collaboration with Maxime Plescia-Büchi. The Swiss tattooist is responsible for the sprawling platform that is Sang Bleu, covering and influencing tattoos, clothing, typography, art - both … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II White, a geometric ice palace for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The new Longines Flagship Heritage proves that black and gold truly never gets old Time+Tide
Longines Flagship Heritage proves Jul 17, 2020

HANDS-ON: The new Longines Flagship Heritage proves that black and gold truly never gets old

While much of the Longines Heritage collection released this year has been brand new pieces, we have also been treated to an update to an existing model, the Longines Flagship Heritage black dial. The previous expression was released last year to rave reviews from the watch world and featured a charming cream-coloured dial, the warmth … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Longines Flagship Heritage proves that black and gold truly never gets old appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, for those that love vintage style in a modern size Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 Jun 25, 2020

VIDEO: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, for those that love vintage style in a modern size

The 1940s were a golden period for chronograph innovation at Longines, an era that included the now highly collectible 13ZN movement, as well as timelessly balanced and articulated designs. The depth of Longines’ archives from this period have yielded yet another handsome model that is faithful to the original, with sensitive updates to bring it … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, for those that love vintage style in a modern size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.