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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.
Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Chronograph SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Apr 9, 2024

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Chronograph

Amidst the plethora of sports watches with integrated bracelets, the Zenith Defy Skyline stands out for its uncluttered design and relative affordability. Now the lineup is joined by the Defy Skyline Chronograph. The chronograph maintains many of the signature features of the existing models, such as its octagonal case and star-patterned dial. Debuting in three dial colours, Defy chronograph is amongst Zenith’s sportier offerings. Like other recent launches, it is powered by the second-generation El Primero calibre. Initial thoughts The Defy Skyline Chronograph is another option for an enthusiasts seeking a sports chronograph with a contemporary design and integrated bracelet. There are admittedly many, many options in this category, but the Defy chronograph is one of the value-minded offerings. At CHF11,900, the Defy chronograph with its in-house movement is competitively priced compared to other offerings in the sports watch market. The brand has opted for a conservative design while retaining a modern edge. Though the overall design is familiar, it has incorporates a few unusual details, including a polygonal flange around the dial. The watch is being launched in only three colours, all simple, easy shades that are well suited to the design, though not exciting. With the limited colours in mind, some might want to wait for subsequent releases that may adopt the colours found in its time-only counterpart. Zenith’s latest addition The Defy chronograph joins Zenith’...

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The Parmigiani Tonda PF Does Away with the Date SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier Apr 9, 2024

The Parmigiani Tonda PF Does Away with the Date

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Parmigiani Fleurier is launching the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date, a concise sports watch clearly catered to those who want just two hands. Featuring a “Golden Siena” (or “salmon”) dial in its inaugural guise, the new Tonda PF barely deviates from the design of the original released in 2021, retaining the same case, proportions, and movement, but eliminates the date. Initial thoughts Among the sports watches launched during the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch fad, the Tonda PF stood out for its unique aesthetics that are neither boring nor flashy. While many of its competitors were often obvious derivatives of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Tonda PF was more original and managed to retain some of the traditional design codes of Parmigiani’s more formal watches. From a distance, it is challenging to tell the difference between the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date and the original. In fact, the only real difference lies in the dial design and colour. Although the differences are minimal, the salmon dial with a no-date layout offers a more refined aesthetic that will appeal to purists. At CHF23,500, the watch is priced the same as the date version and like it, is a decent-enough value proposition. Though it seems expensive when compared to more affordable alternatives like the Louis Vuitton Tambour or Moser Streamliner, the Tonda PF is more affordable than the Royal Oak or a Nautilus (which are mostly unobtaina...

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Bravur Introduces the “Team Heritage” Collection, Paying Tribute to Classic Cycling Teams of the Past Worn & Wound
Bravur Apr 8, 2024

Bravur Introduces the “Team Heritage” Collection, Paying Tribute to Classic Cycling Teams of the Past

Swedish brand Bravur was founded in 2011 with the goal to design, develop and hand build mechanical watches to order. Essentially, crafting watches to the highest standards, never compromising on craftsmanship and quality. They build all their mechanical watches in a small workshop in Båstad and having their own assembly gives them maximum control over their production. Inspired by the founder’s shared enthusiasm for bicycle racing in the southern region of Sweden, their latest 2024 release is a new range within their ‘Team Heritage’ series. There are three new models, the REN, PEU and MER, each representing an iconic cycling team from the 1950s to 80s. The measurements are 37mm in diameter, 44.6mm from lug-to-lug and only 11.4mm thick, while a Swiss Made Sellita SW300 oversees the timekeeping. The muse for the REN edition is the Renault team jersey, the very team that dominated the sport from 1978 to 1983. Its white sandwich dial cleverly displays the bold yellow, black, and white color pattern which characterized that team. The PEU edition’s austere scheme represents the legendary checkerboard pattern of the storied Peugeot team of the 1960s through to the mid-80s. Its excellent monochromatic legibility is ever so lightly garnished with a hint of green accents. The MER edition is the wildest of the three, inspired by the Mercier team that holds the record for the most participations in the Tour de France. Its textured purple dial is surrounded by a bright yellow...

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First Look – The Impressive Complexity and Beauty of the De Bethune DB Kind of Grande Complication Monochrome
De Bethune DB Kind Apr 8, 2024

First Look – The Impressive Complexity and Beauty of the De Bethune DB Kind of Grande Complication

Blurring the lines between classical watchmaking, traditional craftsmanship and contemporary design, De Bethune offers collectors the best of all worlds. Spearheaded by master watchmaker Denis Flageollet, De Bethune’s latest masterpiece is a compendium of the core technical and aesthetic markers accumulated by the brand over the past 22 years. The eight complications of this impressive […]

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Nivada Introduces a Titanium F77, and Adds Some Exotic Dials to the Collection Worn & Wound
Apr 8, 2024

Nivada Introduces a Titanium F77, and Adds Some Exotic Dials to the Collection

When Nivada relaunched the F77, the brand’s long dormant integrated bracelet sports watch, it landed with a positive reception but was, maybe, seen as a little unremarkable. It paid tribute to the original, maintaining its sleek 37mm case and a sporty profile, but didn’t really do a whole lot to set itself apart from the many other integrated bracelet sports watch options out there. Now, with the second F77 collection hitting just a year later, Nivada has tried something genuinely different for watches in this category, putting a much greater emphasis on the dial, offering a range of choices that approach the exotic. The watch is also now in a new metal, titanium, that will perhaps make it that much more desirable to those looking for an alternative to more common watches in this style.  The “basket weave” dial motif that was introduced in last year’s launch returns here but in just one of the four variants Nivada will be making available. The anthracite gray execution of the titanium F77 is the most straightforward of the new models, and the one that’s most closely linked to previous versions. The real story here though is in those other three dial variants. Nivada will be offering the F77 in meteorite, lapis lazuli, and aventurine, with the general idea being that the brand is both “looking skyward” and “breaking new ground” with dials evoking deep space as well as the earth itself. That’s clever marketing, but it’s backed up in this case by Niva...

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The IWC Fliegerchronograph 3706 - A Trusty Companion And Neo-Vintage Gem Fratello
IWC Fliegerchronograph 3706 - Apr 6, 2024

The IWC Fliegerchronograph 3706 - A Trusty Companion And Neo-Vintage Gem

We are lucky to have reached a phase in the modern industry where the standards of mass production are such that watches can endure all sorts of conditions. The adage “they don’t make them like they used to” hasn’t entirely panned out with watchmaking, at least regarding production quality (design, aesthetics, and luxury culture certainly […] Visit The IWC Fliegerchronograph 3706 - A Trusty Companion And Neo-Vintage Gem to read the full article.

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Michael Chong Worn & Wound
Cartier Tank There’s also Apr 5, 2024

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Michael Chong

Editor’s Note: For this edition of The Three Watch Collection for $5,000, we have a collection from collector Michael Chong. Michael has chosen a trio of watches that track his varied horological interests, from a quirky Seiko to perhaps the most classic watch design of them all, the Cartier Tank. There’s also a familiar Nomos Club Campus, but this one has a twist.  Since high school graduation, I have spent 5 years navigating the vast world of watches, collecting and refining my collection to reflect my lifestyle and identity. However, I underestimated this task, and I now realize that this is a dynamic lifelong journey, subject to the natural or unexpected changes that humans go through in their life, whether it is relocation, career shifts, evolving needs or wants, or amending personal tastes/niches. Below I present my ideal three-watch collection under 5k, shaped by 5 years of this process. Seiko A829-6019 – $650 In 2020, while searching for an LCD Speedmaster 186.0004, I stumbled upon the Seiko A829-6019, which also boasted a NASA connection and was more affordable. I discovered this 1982 Seiko A829 on eBay up for auction with its original bracelet and endlinks. After doing deep research ensuring it was all 100% original, I purchased it and the watch was delivered the following week. Despite some wear and tear, including a scratched bezel and faded red accents, all functions, including the alarms (extremely loud), worked flawlessly. The standout feature was the...

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First Look – The New Ferdinand Berthoud FB RES, With Over Two Hundred Customisation Options Monochrome
Chopard s co-president unveiled Apr 3, 2024

First Look – The New Ferdinand Berthoud FB RES, With Over Two Hundred Customisation Options

In 2015, Ferdinand Berthoud, a brand with a historical name resurrected by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Chopard’s co-president, unveiled the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB1. Since then, we’ve witnessed the successful launch of numerous references in the FB1, FB2, and FB3 collections. These releases have showcased groundbreaking engineering innovations and distinguished themselves with their exceptional design, setting them […]

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First Look – The New Doxa SUB 200T Collection, Now in a more Compact 39mm Case (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Doxa SUB 200T Collection Now Apr 3, 2024

First Look – The New Doxa SUB 200T Collection, Now in a more Compact 39mm Case (Incl. Video)

The design for Doxa’s signature diving watches, labelled SUB (and in particular the emblematic SUB 300 collection), was first introduced in 1966 and proved to be the blueprint for what we know and love today. While the iconic design has been retained over the years, Doxa has been playing around with the overall concept in […]

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Norqain is Ready for Spring with Pastel Shades for the Freedom 60 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Norqain Apr 2, 2024

Norqain is Ready for Spring with Pastel Shades for the Freedom 60 Chronograph

Swiss watchmaker Norqain has just released the colorful Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm collection. Showcasing three colorways, this collection is inspired by the idyllic charm of Tuscany, capturing the essence of la dolce vita, mixed with the precision and design elements for which Norqain is known. Each watch in the collection features a 316L stainless steel case in the now familiar Freedom 60 silhouette that evokes classic sports watches from the past. With a diameter of 40mm and a thickness of 14.90mm, these timepieces strike the perfect balance of having presence on the wrist without too much additional bulk.  The Freedom 60 Chrono 40 mm collection is available in three new pastel color options: Sky Blue, Pistachio, and Peach, each dial reminiscent of one’s favorite gelateria. Each dial has a darker complementary sub-dial, outer ring, and tachymeter scale to tie the everything  together. An anthracite Norqain logo and black counters at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock add depth to the dial, while diamond-cut flat indexes ensure readability in a variety of lighting conditions. The color matched date window, positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock, adds a practical complication, while diamond-cut faceted hour and minute hands, filled with Superluminova, enhance visibility in low-light environments. The Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm collection is powered by the mechanical Norqain caliber N19 (a modified Sellita SW510), offering 62 hours of power reserve.  Watches are offered in three strap varie...

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Singer Reimagined Introduces the Divetrack SJX Watches
Rolex Deepsea Challenge Apr 2, 2024

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Divetrack

As a sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, the “restomod” outfit specialising in Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined naturally got its start with auto-racing inspired chronographs, namely the Track 1. Now the brand has pivoted and debuted its first diving watch, the Divetrack Chronograph. Decidedly oversized – the diameter is 49 mm – the Divetrack has the aesthetics of a dive timer, but also the functionality thanks to a clever case and dial construction. And like the Track 1, the Divetrack is powered by the smart AgenGraphe movement that consolidates all of the chronograph indicators onto the central axis. Initial thoughts Oversized dive watches are cool. Watch nerds appreciate them for the technology, design, and function even if no one really uses them for the intended purpose. This applies to the Seiko Tuna, Rolex Deepsea Challenge, and now the Divetrack. At 49 mm in diameter and almost 20 mm high, the Divetrack is unabashedly oversized. It has an appealing instrument-like design along with a clever decompression scale on the dial. And the Agenhor movement inside ranks amongst the most inventive chronograph movements on the market. But the Divetrack is priced at CHF85,000, which is surprisingly high. In comparison, the Track 1 in titanium or aluminium costs about CHF50,000. The number is difficult to justify regardless of how you slice it. Although the movement has been modified for a 24-hour counter, the modification isn’t a major one. Still, the small edition ...

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Hands-On With The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition - A Fun And Crowd-Pleasing Favorite Fratello
Mido Apr 1, 2024

Hands-On With The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition - A Fun And Crowd-Pleasing Favorite

Last week, I introduced the new Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition to you. It’s a relatively affordable vintage-inspired watch with a blue dial and flyer GMT movement inside. I also told you that I was quite excited about it because of its attractive design, modest proportions, and price. However, my opinion was entirely based […] Visit Hands-On With The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition - A Fun And Crowd-Pleasing Favorite to read the full article.

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The Roundup: Formex, Rolex, Timex, and Beyond Worn & Wound
Formex Rolex Timex Mar 31, 2024

The Roundup: Formex, Rolex, Timex, and Beyond

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week we go heavy on the watches by highlighting the hot Formex Essence Sector made in partnership with Worn & Wound. For the retro-inclined, we appreciate the timelessness of a mid-century Rolex Oyster Perpetual date and the whimsy of the new Timex Ironman collab with The James Brand. Pioneer Carry and Seiko round things out with special gear and new stopwatches. Let’s get right into it! The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great ...

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Introducing: The Orient Star M Collections - A Different Take On Japanese Top-Shelf Horology Fratello
Orient Mar 28, 2024

Introducing: The Orient Star M Collections - A Different Take On Japanese Top-Shelf Horology

If you’re already into watches, Japanese brands have a different design mindset and offer big value. Orient Star is a brand you’ll think of if you’re a seasoned watch geek like me, especially if you actually remember watch forums (ask your dad or an uncle). Most brands have a lot to offer, but with microbrands […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M Collections - A Different Take On Japanese Top-Shelf Horology to read the full article.

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Introducing – The New Bianchet Flying Tourbillon Sport GMT Monochrome
Mar 27, 2024

Introducing – The New Bianchet Flying Tourbillon Sport GMT

In 2021, Bianchet, an independent, family-owned and family-operated brand, unveiled its inaugural creation, the B1.618 Tourbillon Openworked. This limited edition timepiece established the foundation for Bianchet’s design language and ethos. Building upon this foundation, the brand introduced subsequent releases, including the B1.618 Grande Date and, for this year, the B1.618 Flying Tourbillon Sport GMT. True […]

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First Look – Czapek Brings The First Antarctique in Gold with the Mount Erebus (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Czapek Brings Mar 26, 2024

First Look – Czapek Brings The First Antarctique in Gold with the Mount Erebus (Incl. Video)

Back in 2020, Czapek launched its Antarctique, the brand’s first luxury sports watch that simultaneously featured the brand’s first in-house calibre. The design followed the codes of what a luxury sports watch is said to be, with a shaped case, integrated bracelet and a textured dial. But Czapek being Czapek, it didn’t cut any corners. […]

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A New Breitling Aerospace Honors the Brand’s History of Adventure Worn & Wound
Breitling Aerospace Honors Mar 26, 2024

A New Breitling Aerospace Honors the Brand’s History of Adventure

With 140 years of history, there have been countless milestones for Breitling. One that comes to mind happened on March 21, 1999. It was on that day that an air balloon, called the Breitling Orbiter 3, landed in the Egyptian desert, making Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones the first two men to circumnavigate the globe during this mode of transportation. It’s this tenacity and adventurous spirit which has been imbued in the Swiss brand since 1884 – and there doesn’t seem to be any slowing down. In fact, Breitling’s latest watch, the Aerospace B70 Orbiter 25th Anniversary Edition is a watch to honor Piccard and Jones’ legacy, while hoping to inspire a new generation of adventurers – or those of us who are adventurers at heart. Each watch contains a segment of the original Breitling Orbiter 3 balloon, visible through the transparent caseback. Adorned with the Breitling Orbiter 3 mission logo and the inscription “First non-stop flight around the world 25th anniversary,” this watch serves as a tangible reminder of humanity’s boundless spirit of exploration. The color scheme of the dial matches that of the Breitling Orbiter 3’s capsule, coming in a bright orange that will catch people’s eyes and surely become a conversation starter. The orange dial is complemented by a 43mm titanium case and a choice of a matching bracelet or black rubber strap. The dial itself features the  Breitling Orbiter 3 mission logo at 3 o’clock and the numerals, indices, and hand...

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Sternglas Adds The Colorful New Lumatik To Its Expanding Collection Fratello
Mar 26, 2024

Sternglas Adds The Colorful New Lumatik To Its Expanding Collection

I have enjoyed reviewing several Sternglas releases over the past couple of years. Mostly, they were stylish Bauhaus-inspired timepieces in black and white, which were good examples of the popular minimalist design philosophy. However, the Hamburg-based brand has not hesitated to add more colorful timepieces to its collection. The latest example is the new Sternglas […] Visit Sternglas Adds The Colorful New Lumatik To Its Expanding Collection to read the full article.

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Depancel Adds New Watches to the Allure Line Worn & Wound
Mar 25, 2024

Depancel Adds New Watches to the Allure Line

Depancel’s racing-inspired design DNA is all over the French brand’s new Allure Automatic Chronograph 43mm. “As an engineer, I have always been fascinated by the beauty of mechanics, passionate about cars and watches,” said Clément Meynier, founder of Depancel. There are the obvious components–it is a chronograph, after all, meant to help drivers time their cars and calculate speed with the handy tachymeter. But Depancel sneaks in subtler cues as well. The Allure Automatic Chronograph features a textured dial meant to evoke the grille of a car, pushers meant to evoke pistons, and a crown meant to evoke a radiator cap. It’s not just a watch for racing–it’s a watch for racing enthusiasts, hoping to transport fans “to an era where chronographs were more than simple measuring instruments for race car drivers, they were loyal companions.” The Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph 43mm is available in two colorways: a blue dial and a silver dial, both using orange as a secondary highlight color. Adding some further color options to the mix, it can be paired with a black, brown, or blue leather strap with orange stitching or a metal bracelet. On the leather straps, a one-off red, white, and blue stitch near the upper lugs pays subtle homage to the flag of France. With a non-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal and 100m of water resistance, the Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph 43mm is durable, robust, and in a definitively contemporary case size.  ...

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The Roundup: Seiko Watches and Clocks, Sleek Knives, and a Sweet Timex Q Worn & Wound
Seiko Watches Mar 24, 2024

The Roundup: Seiko Watches and Clocks, Sleek Knives, and a Sweet Timex Q

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week we open with a fan favorite, the Seiko Alpinist, now with a GMT twist. Next up, our value pick of the week is a new G-Show that really glows. Upgrade your kit with the Farley from Giant Mouse, one of the stylish knives around. Finally, inexpensive Seiko alarm clocks and Timex Q reissues wrap up this week’s Roundup. Let’s jump right in!  The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights i...

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REVIEW: Hands On With The Bell & Ross Cyber Ceramic WatchAdvice
Bell & Ross Cyber Ceramic Part cyberpunk Mar 23, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Bell & Ross Cyber Ceramic

Part cyberpunk, part stealth fighter, we go hands on with the Bell & Ross Cyber Ceramic to see if this avante guarde piece can handle the urban jungle. What We Love The faceted designLittle details you keep noticing after a longer wearIt truly is a stealth watch with little branding What We Don’t The loud ceramic rotor noiseThickness of the caseLegibility of the hands and dial Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 Bell & Ross is one of those under-the-radar brands. Ironic given their penchant for aviation-themed timepieces! So when I was thinking about what watch I’d like to review, and not had the chance to really spend much time with, Bell & Ross came to mind. I haven’t read any hands-on reviews with them in recent times, nor have I really seen any floating around. Originally I was thinking of doing a review of one of their more classic pieces, however, Bell & Ross offered us an alternative. The new Cyber Skeleton in black ceramic. Introducing the Bell & Ross Cyber Ceramic Initial Thoughts I’ve never been into all-black watches. I’ve nothing against them, they’ve just not really appealed to me all that much. However, the Bell & Ross Cyber Skeleton isn’t your everyday all-black piece. It is a statement on your wrist. One that will most probably not get much attention until it does. It’s one of those pieces that isn’t easily recognisable from a distance (hence under the radar) but on closer inspec...

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Introducing – The Appealing Carl F. Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual Gets a Stylish Grey Option Monochrome
Carl F. Bucherer Mar 22, 2024

Introducing – The Appealing Carl F. Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual Gets a Stylish Grey Option

First released in 2019, the Heritage BiCompax Annual quickly became a best-selling watch for Carl F. Bucherer. Merging retro design elements with modern complications and practicality, it is one of the very few timepieces on the market to combine a chronograph and an annual calendar – something you’d imagine only Patek is capable of manufacturing… […]

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Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition - Celebrating The Collection’s 80th Anniversary Fratello
Mido Mar 21, 2024

Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition - Celebrating The Collection’s 80th Anniversary

To celebrate the Ocean Star’s 80th anniversary, Mido introduces a new GMT Special Edition. It doesn’t take much inspiration from a specific reference from the past, but it certainly looks inspired by vintage watches. And, just like the other Ocean Star GMT models, it features a so-called “flyer GMT” movement. Even though more and more […] Visit Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition - Celebrating The Collection’s 80th Anniversary to read the full article.

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