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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

A Brief History of the IWC Pilot’s Watch SJX Watches
IWC Pilot’s Watch One Sep 6, 2021

A Brief History of the IWC Pilot’s Watch

One of IWC’s signature wristwatch lines – the other being the Portugieser – is the Pilot’s Watch, a collection descended from the timepieces dating to the earliest days of aviation. Popular for its functional styling and general affordability, the Pilot’s Watch collection is regularly updated – IWC revamped the range in 2016, 2019, and again this year – and diverse. There are two threads running through IWC’s modern-day Pilot’s Watch collection that connect to the brand’s historical aviator’s watches: the smaller “Mark” watches typically associated with the British Royal Air Force (RAF) and the oversized “B-Uhr” made for the German air force of the Second World War. Big pilot and small pilot – Mark IX and B-uhr The origins IWC’s history in aviator’s watches started the Special Pilot’s Watch ref. 436, now widely known as the “Mark IX”. Conceived by the two sons of Ernst Jakob Homberger, the then-owner of IWC, the Mark IX was unveiled in 1936. Homberger’s sons were both licensed pilots and understood the features required for good pilot’s watch, resulting in style that is now synonymous with the pilot’s watch genre. IWC was not the only maker of pilot’s watches during the period, though it was arguably the most successful since it continued to be a leading supplier of aviator’s timepieces for the next two decades. The Mark IX had a 38 mm case – extraordinarily oversized in an era when the standard man’s watch was a...

MICRO MONDAYS: Built for baristas, the Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes a welcome return Time+Tide
Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes Sep 6, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Built for baristas, the Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes a welcome return

Design is the language microbrands use best to communicate to collectors what it is they bring to the table. One microbrand who has done an amazing job of this is Brew Watch Company. Founded by designer Jonathan Ferrer in 2015, the company has released multiple collections, which feature attention-grabbing designs, that all focus on a … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Built for baristas, the Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes a welcome return appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Sep 5, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon

The Bulgari Octo was famously designed by the legendary Gerald Genta. I see the Octo Roma as maintaining the essence of Genta’s spiritual work without its square-edged temple case sides, as the octagonal shape is, of course, the heart of the Octo. The range is a smaller wearing, rounder feeling Octo, but the Bulgari Octo … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar: the sports chronograph with an unusual calendar Deployant
Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Sep 4, 2021

Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar: the sports chronograph with an unusual calendar

Overall we enjoyed the look and feel of the watch. It brought to mind Omega's Speedmaster and its calendar sibiling. Or even more distant, IWC's Ingenier or GST calendar. The contrasting materials and colors gave the watch a sporty look, and the size came with substantial wrist presence. The downside of course, is a rather hefty sports watch more suited for those with thicker wrists.

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Sep 4, 2021

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges

Invented in 1860, the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is synonymous with Girard-Perregaux, a design unique and impressive enough it remains the watchmaker’s flagship movement after some one and a half centuries. Since its modern-day revival in 1981, the triple-bridge tourbillon has evolved to keep up with contemporary tastes, leading to variants like the Neo Bridges, which has sleek, arched bridges. Earlier this year, Girard-Perregaux unveiled the latest form of the Three Bridges, which does away with the base plate altogether, resulting in a floating, see-through movement. Now the brand has finally unveiled the luxe version of the watch, made even more striking in pink gold and black –  the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges. Initial thoughts My opinion of the most recent iterations of the Three Bridges have been lukewarm, as I find the reworked designs tend to blur the original identity of the movement – the designs attempt modernity but don’t quite make it – but latest version changed my mind. The Flying Bridges is clean and streamlined, creating in a magnificent, unobscured view of its mechanics, one that’s enhanced with the right choice of colour and architecture. And the Flying Bridges is an interesting watch from a technical standpoint. The parts that make up the timekeeping train – barrel, gear train, and tourbillon-regulator – are arranged linearly and vertically, as the historical Three Bridges was. But now they supported by three horizon...

INTRODUCING: The Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur dazzles with a trio of exotic dials Time+Tide
Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur dazzles Sep 4, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur dazzles with a trio of exotic dials

Are the bold, dazzling stone dials of yesteryear making a comeback? After the unexpected releases from H.Moser earlier this year it does seem like it, and I for one am applauding. I mean why be wrist-shy, when one of the main reasons for a wristwatch in 2021 isn’t to tell the time, but more as … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur dazzles with a trio of exotic dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 Of The Best De Bethune Models In The Last 12 Months Plus Bonus Video Of The De Bethune x Voutilainen Kind Of Magic For Only Watch 2021 Quill & Pad
De Bethune Models Sep 3, 2021

5 Of The Best De Bethune Models In The Last 12 Months Plus Bonus Video Of The De Bethune x Voutilainen Kind Of Magic For Only Watch 2021

The second edition of Geneva Watch Days (August 30 through September 3, 2021) is upon the Quill & Pad team, and among the many brands Ian has looked forward to catching up with is one of his all-time favorites: De Bethune. Here are six watches the brand has recently released as seen through Ian's lens, including the brand's unique Only Watch 2021 piece.

The watch starter kit for NFL rookies – three watches for $32,000 Time+Tide
Sep 3, 2021

The watch starter kit for NFL rookies – three watches for $32,000

We’re a little bit over a week away from the start of the National Football League season, where 259 rookies will try to prove they belong among hundreds of hardened veterans. On the field, speed, agility and endurance will be the weapons of the day. Off of it, they battle the many potential perils of … ContinuedThe post The watch starter kit for NFL rookies – three watches for $32,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: IWC’s true blue special edition supports the Laureus Foundation Time+Tide
IWC s true blue special Sep 3, 2021

INTRODUCING: IWC’s true blue special edition supports the Laureus Foundation

In a world where the daily struggles of life may seem too much to bear, sports can routinely provide a much needed escape. This escape carries with it even more importance for youth, as it provides a safe space that can protect them from an environment where violence, discrimination and poverty pervades. With this in … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: IWC’s true blue special edition supports the Laureus Foundation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bet on black with the Bulgari Bulgari ref. 103540 for Father’s Day Time+Tide
Bulgari Bulgari ref 103540 Sep 2, 2021

Bet on black with the Bulgari Bulgari ref. 103540 for Father’s Day

Forget the ties, the socks and all those “gifts” you had lined up for this coming Father’s Day (which is this Sunday in Australia). Bulgari is mixing things up a bit by way of their newly released Father’s Day Gift Guide (which can be found here). Highlighted in the guide is a mixture of jewellery … ContinuedThe post Bet on black with the Bulgari Bulgari ref. 103540 for Father’s Day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Debuts the Royal Oak Offshore 42 mm with In-House Cal. 4404 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts Sep 2, 2021

Audemars Piguet Debuts the Royal Oak Offshore 42 mm with In-House Cal. 4404

One of the biggest watches on the market when it was introduced in 1993, the Royal Oak Offshore is a landmark in the oversized-sports watch genre. Since then the model has been iterated into numerous variants and several sizes, while the first-generation originals have occasionally returned as limited editions. Now they are back for good as part of the regular collection at Audemars Piguet – but upgraded with the in-house cal. 4404 as well as quick-release bracelets and straps. Nicknamed “evolution” by Audemars Piguet (AP), the new Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 42 mm ref. 26238TI is being launched with a trio of watches that are a faithful take on the 1993 original, along with two new “Mega Tapisserie” dials in the same size. The Offshore 42 mm with “Mega Tapisserie” dials Initial thoughts The last major revamp of the Offshore Chronograph 42 mm was in 2014, when it received a movement upgrade in the form of an in-house base movement, though retaining the modular chronograph. And then two years ago Audemars Piguet unveiled a model equipped with the Frederic Piguet cal. 1185. The new Offshore is arguably better than all its recent counterparts, because it combines the original design – which is a classic – while improving what needed to be improved, namely the movement. In the release announcement, AP describes the movement as “a new selfwinding integrated chronograph, Calibre 4404, equipped with column wheel and flyback function”, which pretty much ...