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Time+Tide
Grand Seiko has just debuted a new 38mm 62GS case, and these two new models are the first to use a hi-beat calibre and titanium case within the 62GS collection.The post The new Grand Seiko SBGH341 & SBGH343 debut the modern 62GS case in a new 38mm size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Sinn dropped their Spring novelties this morning, an event that’s always of keen interest to hardcore watch enthusiasts. Sinn is one of our favorite brands for a whole number of reasons, but I’ve always felt that part of their appeal is in their somewhat elusive, “if you know, you know,” nature. Part of that is the fact that they have a single American distributor, and don’t have the flashiest social media presence. In the US, they still seem very German and are truly a brand for connoisseurs. If you see someone wearing a Sinn, you know that they sought it out, and that it might not have been easy to find. Sinn’s pattern for novelty releases over the last few years seems to be to release a mix of modern tool watches and vintage throwbacks simultaneously. This year’s vintage throwback is a manually wound chronograph, the 103 St Ty Hd. The 103 is their core chronograph model, the simplest and arguably least fussy, and has been made in a huge number of variants over the years. This new version has a steel case and old-fashioned acrylic crystal, and a panda-style dial layout with red accents. Fans of the 103 will notice immediately that the 12, 6, 9 (with day/date at 3) layout from previous 103 references is missing, a result of the manually wound Sellita SW 510 M powering the new watch. Here we get a classic three register, no date dial in the same familiar 41mm case. This is Sinn’s first manually wound 103 in 20 years, which should make the release of the...
Monochrome
In today’s day and age, it’s easy to forget that the wrist-worn timekeeping devices we love so much come from a long history of clockmaking. After all, clockmaking precedes watchmaking by several centuries, as the first mechanical clocks date back to the 13th century. But even before that, people were fascinated by the passing of […]
SJX Watches
Based in Pennsylvania, Dewey Vicknair is a respected gunsmith who specialises in restoring rifles and shotguns, and has been doing so for decades, gaining an esteemed reputation in the process. Now in his mid-fifties, he is also a self-taught watchmaker who has been performing watch servicing on the side. Recently Mr Vicknair made the leap from fixing watches to making one. Mr Vicknair explained the genesis of his first watch: “When I saw your stories about Atelier de Chronometrie and what they do with vintage Omega movements, I was inspired.” His inaugural creation is a hand-wound wristwatch of his own making, literally. Although the movement started out as a 1950s Omega cal. 266, Mr Vicknair reworked majority of it and made many parts from scratch, including the going train bridge, as he did for the case, dial, and even the gasket for the crown tube. Because he made most of the parts himself, Mr Vicknair had to fabricate the equipment required to make the parts, including a cutter for the gasket and a screw holder for black polishing. He even did the silver plating of the movement parts himself. It is an unexpected accomplishment for a first-time watchmaker. Initial thoughts Ordinarily I would be sceptical of an unknown watchmaker seeking publicity for a new project with a five-figure price tag. But a few things changed my mind. One was seeing Mr Vicknair’s unusually thorough documentation of his production process, which is almost entirely manual – even the mach...
Fratello
The Lapinist Watch Studio is a well-known source for case restorations of vintage Grand and King Seiko watches. Aside from his work, Kamil Rybarczyk, the Lapinist himself, also handcrafts display backs for these watches. Today, we’re pleased to report that his newest project is ready, and it should be sweet music to the ears of […] Visit The Lapinist Launches Sapphire Crystals For Vintage Grand Seiko And King Seiko Models to read the full article.
Monochrome
Probably the most classic, emblematic and recognizable model made by Grand Seiko, the 44GS is the watch that created the “House Style” according to the so-called Grammar of Design. A timeless design that has influenced the entire production of the brand since its introduction in 1967, the 44GS returned in 2023 in a slightly updated […]
Fratello
Last year, we were treated to the brilliant Sinn T50 series. After trying the three watches out, I became an instant fan of the full-titanium, Goldbronze, and two-tone versions, and the last one made a particularly lasting impression. This time around, the German brand is extending its U-series of dive watches with four new models. […] Visit Sinn Extends Its U50 Lineup - Three Regular Oil-Filled Models And A Lume-Dial Limited Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
Last year, Thomas gave an introduction to Citizen’s Miyota operation, with a focus on the Miyota 9-series movements and their use in many microbrands we are familiar with. The consensus is that this popular family of automatic calibers offers plenty in terms of specifications, variety, customization, and value. Today, I’m looking at the 8-series movements, […] Visit A Look At Miyota’s 8-Series Movements For Microbrands to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
When you think of James Bond watches, the first models that likely come to mind would probably be from Omega, or Rolex, or - depending on which Bond era you prefer - maybe even Seiko. But one of the most memorable wristwatch scenes in Bond’s cinematic history has a Breitling as its star. In 1965’s Thunderball, the fourth movie in the popular series starring Ian Fleming’s Agent 007, star Sean Connery spends most of his screen time wearing the same watch that he wore in his previous three outings as Bond: a Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538, now known by many collectors as the quintessential “James Bond Rolex.” However, in one key scene, Bond swaps out the Submariner for another watch: a heavily modified Breitling Top Time Ref. 2002, a steel-cased, black-dialed chronograph with two white subdials, applied baton hour markers, and a tachymeter scale surrounding the dial. (The actual watch is pictured above, sans strap, photo via Christie's.) In the movie’s fictional universe, the watch - one of many gadget-packed timepieces assigned to Bond by MI-6 weapons supplier Q throughout the film series - is also equipped with a built-in Geiger counter; Bond uses it to track a cache of stolen nuclear warheads hidden deep underwater by his adversaries from the criminal organization SPECTRE. The watch was the only Breitling ever worn by any James Bond actor on screen - though, interestingly enough, another Breitling, a Navitimer 806, also appeared briefly in Thunderbal...
Worn & Wound
Since 2015, the Windup Watch Fair has attracted watch enthusiasts from all walks of life to celebrate their passion and discover new brands and products. Over the last three years, the Windup Watch Fair has become one of the world’s largest consumer-facing watch events, serving as a powerful platform for brands and enthusiasts to come together in a one-of-a-kind setting. In 2024, this evolution continues with three shows, two new venues, and some new partnerships that will further enhance your Windup experience. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco May 3 – 5, 2024 Fort Mason – Gateway Pavillion San Francisco, CA We are thrilled to be returning to San Francisco, in an even more impactful way than ever. The Windup Watch Fair will be one of the first events in the newly reopened Gateway Pavillion on Pier 2 at the Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture. With stunning views of The Golden Gate Bridge, this architectural renovation is an idyllic spot to gather, meet new brands, try new products, and experience enthusiasm together. It comes complete with breakout rooms for live podcasts, special guest speakers, and enthusiast group meetups. You won’t want to miss this iconic San Francisco experience. Windup Watch Fair Chicago July 12-14, 2024 Venue West Chicago, IL We’ll return to our beloved Venue West for our Chicago Fair in the West Loop neighborhood of the Windy City. Once again, we’ll bring brands from around the world to share their wares and tares. With more live podca...
Worn & Wound
The moon holds a special place in the watch world. It represents a certain sense of adventure, the furthest place man has ever visited outside of our world. The Omega Speedmaster and the Bulova Lunar Pilot may be the only watches that can claim to have actually visited the lunar surface, but countless other watches pay tribute to Earth’s only natural satellite. Citizen represents one of the few brands with lunar watches that also have some real space exploration cred to boot, and its new limited edition Attesa models continue the watchmaker’s partnership with Hakuto-R, a Japanese lunar exploration mission. Citizen has released three new Attesa Hakuto-R models in anticipation of the program’s latest attempt at an unmanned mission, which will occur later this year. When the lunar lander touches down on the moon’s surface, it’ll be doing so with Citizen’s proprietary Super Titanium as one of the components. That same titanium was used to make the cases of the latest Attesa Hakuto-R watches. With colorful dials that evoke the moon’s surface, the new Attesas are immediately eye-catching. Underneath the dials, the pieces are powered by the Citizen 4950 Eco-Drive movement, which gives the watches an impressive battery life thanks to their ability to charge from any natural or artificial light. The new models all also feature Eco-Drive Atomic Timekeeping, which uses radio transmitters to automatically update the time and date if any time is ever gained or lost. One o...
Monochrome
A few days ago, the MONOCHROME team delivered our yearly forecast of potential launches for the 2024 Rolex Collection. As always, we try our best to guess what the Crown will be presenting at the watch industry’s largest fair, Watches and Wonders. While trying to imagine and design these potential Rolex models, we also started […]
Fratello
Omega has increased the price of its Speedmaster models quite significantly in the past few years. While one could buy the classic Moonwatch for less than €5,000 not even that long ago, the models with a sapphire front and back crystal are rapidly approaching the €10,000 mark. Granted, it’s not the same watch that it […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Two Omega Speedmasters And A Spacemaster to read the full article.
Fratello
You may recall that Fortis sent 13 Stratoliner S-41 watches into space on a rocket last year. Yes, actual outer space, past the Kármán line and over 100 kilometers above the Earth’s surface. These 13 special watches were recovered, and Fortis made them available for collectors to buy via application only. One application slot was […] Visit Meet The Lucky Fratello Reader Who Now Owns A Space-Flown Fortis Stratoliner S-41 Supernova to read the full article.
Monochrome
Part of the nouvelle vague of watch brands born in France, March LAB was created in 2008 with a focus on design and vintage inspiration. A distinguishing element that has to do with the founders’ origins is France’s Atlantic coast; to be precise, France’s top surf spot on the Basque Country’s coastline. Moving from a […]
Fratello
Today, we won’t talk about the latest release from Atelier Wen. We will briefly discuss a new venture from the Chinese marque called Inside the Atelier. This is a behind-the-scenes look at the various suppliers supporting the brand’s watches. It focuses on the people, their inspiration, and where they work. The first episode is out, […] Visit Atelier Wen Kicks Off Its “Inside The Atelier” Video Series to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Rolex is one of the largest, most prominent brands in the world. Unlike many other brands of this size, Rolex is a private company and so it is somewhat opaque when it comes to hard facts about what goes on behind closed doors. But some numbers can be found online, and are used to determine roughly how many watches Rolex makes a year and how much revenue is made per model.
SJX Watches
In an unsurprising move given recent fads, Piaget just announced the Polo 79, a yellow gold wristwatch that is essentially a remake of the original, with a slightly larger case that captures the proportions of the original and an impressively slim movement. Initial thoughts The Polo 79 is a predictable launch, coming shortly after the Vacheron Constantin 222 and IWC Ingenieur, which are of course products of Piaget’s sister companies. The new Polo sticks to the same formula, gently updating the aesthetics and installing a new movement, but largely preserving the same design. So the Polo 79 can’t be commended for creativity, but it is executed well. That said, creating a new design in the spirit of the original – namely geometric forms, slim, and sporty – would have certainly made it a more interesting watch. The Polo 79 is slightly larger than the original, but substantially thicker thanks to a self-winding movement. The original, on the other hand, was equipped with the quartz cal. 7P, an incredibly thin movement that fit the trends of the time. The increase in size means the new Polo feels like a bulked up version of the original, which was small and flat in keeping with 1980s style. To accommodate modern tastes, the Polo 79 sacrifices the thinness of the original. That is regrettable but forgivable, since it would not be possible to achieve sufficient water resistance (the Polo 79 is rated to 50 m) as well as automatic winding in the dimensions of the original c...
Worn & Wound
Spring is coming early, or at least that’s what Punxsutawney Phil would have us believe. February 2 was Groundhog Day in North America. In case you don’t know (or haven’t seen the Bill Murray movie), this is the day that groundhogs around the country are coaxed from their burrows in an attempt to predict the arrival of spring weather. If the groundhog emerges to see its shadow, it will nestle back into its cozy home and winter will continue for six more weeks. Thankfully, at least for everyone pining for warmer weather, the definitive Groundhog - the aforementioned Punxsutawney Phil - predicted an early Spring. Mere days later, he has been proven right with the release of two new Spring-inspired releases by Grand Seiko. Like many Grand Seiko releases, the obvious stand-out feature of these watches are the dials. Still, before we dive into that it’s worth taking a look at the broader strokes of the SBGH341 “Sakura-Kakushi” and SBGH343 “Sakura-Wakaba.” These new releases come in a familiar 62GS case produced in Grand Seiko’s high-intensity titanium on a matching bracelet. Except, it’s not quite the case we’re used to seeing. When the 62GS case was relaunched by Grand Seiko back in 2019, it was upsized to 40mm. This new interpretation of the 62GS brings that back down to a wonderful 38mm. With their scaled-down dimensions and at just 12.9mm thick, these fall squarely into the goldilocks dimensions so many collectors seek out these days. Throw in the...
Monochrome
Furniture that looks old but is made today is usually classified as reproduction furniture, models that take design cues from the past but are crafted with contemporary materials. This very same phenomenon also applies to the watch world, especially for brands that don’t have reams of historical catalogues to dip into and select the next […]
The Citizen Promaster Aqualand JP2007-09W is now available in the Worn & Wound Shop Twenty meters down, I slowed my descent by squirting a puff of air into my buoyancy wing. I hovered just under the overhanging edge of the massive wreck. In contrast to the bright tropical sun streaming down from far above, the maw inside this upturned ship was in deep shadow. To venture inside was to go from day to night, and despite years of exploring shipwrecks, it always gave me pause to penetrate the bowels of one. There’s nothing particularly dangerous about the Hilma Hooker, and indeed it sees hundreds of divers a year, due to its proximity to shore, warm water, and relatively accessible depth. The wreck rests at the bottom of a lush coral reef, hard on the sand at just over 30 meters. Most divers are content to kick along its hull, snap some hero shots near the propeller, and marvel at the huge tarpon and barracuda that spend the daylight hours hovering in the shadows. But somehow, the yawning darkness inside beckons-hollowed-out cargo holds and engine room, long empty compartments that once purportedly held contraband drugs before the ship was seized, abandoned, and then mysteriously sunk. I hesitated, then switched on my powerful dive torch and swam into the darkness. Truth be told, I wasn’t really penetrating the Hilma Hooker to search for sunken treasure. I’d been inside this wreck many times before, in over a dozen trips to Bonaire. I had a different, more quixotic goal...
Fratello
Back in 2022, I reviewed a couple of Yema’s Superman models, and I really liked the vintage vibes of the pointy lugs and the clean diver’s dial. The 39mm size is perfect for a wide variety of wrists, and I even thought the old-school bezel lock was charming. Unfortunately, I found the overall finishing and […] Visit Yema Steps Up Its Game With The New Superman Slim - Powered By The In-House CMM.20 Micro-Rotor Movement to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
This month I had the pleasure of speaking with Nathan Bobinchak, Head of Watchmaking for the independent brand Oak & Oscar. Nathan is a former journalist and TV news writer turned watchmaker, with an obsession for finding the best way to experience sound through home audio setups. Watches “I had my midlife crisis at 26.” Nathan delivers a dry joke as he recounts his career shift from local TV news, to his decision to go to watchmaking school. Specifically, Nathan attended The Litiz Watch Technicum, a watchmaking school outside Lancaster, PA that was founded in 2001 by Rolex. After graduating from Litiz, Nathan worked for a shop in Connecticut, eventually moving to Chicago at the beginning of 2020 and landing the job at Oak & Oscar. “I first got into Oak & Oscar with the Jackson. The Jackson is a very cool chronograph with the Eterna 3916 movement in it. It’s a very neat, super complicated, pretty movement. It has a column wheel and flyback chrono…just very cool.” Nathan explained to me that in modern watchmaking you do a lot of the same things, but said he was fortunately certified to work on watches like the Rolex Daytona, as he has a lot of fun servicing chronographs. “I can go on all day about the art of lubricating a chronograph. That is some nerdy stuff. It’s like paint drying.” I was interested, so I asked him to expound. “The only thing that makes watches hard to work on is the user. We knock them, move them around, a movement will run grea...
Monochrome
Born in 1963, the Superman quickly became Yema’s most emblematic watch and, incidentally, one of France’s most famous watches too. A so-called skin diver, meaning a dive watch intended for recreational dives and more restrained proportions, it remained nevertheless a competent aquatic tool. Revived in 2018 with a faithful re-edition, Yema has, for the past […]
SJX Watches
To inaugurate its first-ever in-house automatic movement, Konstantin Chaykin created the Wristmon Zebra Piece Unique, a one-off based on the brand’s signature best-seller. Though it retains the familiar “rolling eye” time display, the Zebra is equipped with the K.33-3, a newly-developed automatic movement with a micro-rotor. Initial thoughts Ever since the launch of the Joker, Konstantin Chaykin has continued to iterate on the Wristmon with its amusing “rolling eye” display. While the Zebra might look like more of the same, it is notable for having an all-new, in-house movement, which replaces the ETA and Vaucher movements that powered past Wristmon models. Mr Chaykin has long hinted that a workhorse in-house movement was in the works, an endeavour that was probably accelerated by the difficulty of sourcing components from outside Russia due to the ongoing war and resulting sanctions. With the launch of the K.33-3, Konstantin Chaykin becomes one of the few independent watchmakers with its own self-winding movement, let alone an automatic calibre with a micro-rotor. The K.33-3 is basic in terms of aesthetics and certain specifications, but it is a feat to be applauded, particularly for Mr Chaykin given the relatively scarcity of specialist suppliers close to him. The Zebra is a one-off conceived to debut the new calibre, but we can expect more watches with the K.33-3 in the future. And if Mr Chaykin retains the same pricing for the new models with an in-house mov...
Fratello
The original Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II 1655 that debuted in 1971 is probably my favorite Rolex watch of all time. I wish I’d felt the same in the mid-1980s when you could pick up an unloved “Freccione” at a huge discount. Unfortunately, I only started warming up to the Explorer II with its steel […] Visit This Monday Morning, I Realized I Should Have Bought The Black-Dial Rolex Explorer II 16570 Instead Of The White One to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Zenith has just taken the covers off the Chronomaster Sport Titanium, essentially a lightweight variant of the bestselling sports chronograph. Entirely in brushed and polished titanium, the new Chronometer is powered by the El Primero 3600 and like most sports chronographs today, available with either a matching titanium bracelet or an integrated rubber strap. Initial thoughts The Chronomaster Sport Titanium doesn’t do anything new in terms of styling – the design still remains derivative of the Rolex Daytona – but it feels good in the lightweight alloy. The watch has the large size required of a sport chronograph, but is easily wearable thanks to the lightness. As an accessible alternative to the Daytona, the Chronomaster Sport is not particularly interesting in steel, but more appealing in titanium. Granted, it retains the same design, but the titanium case and bracelet give it a tangibly different feel. Of all the Chronomaster Sport iterations, this is the most appealing, particularly since it’s the only variant dressed in low-key, monochromatic colours. The grey hue of titanium complements the palette, with the tri-colour sub-dials in shades of grey being a clever touch. The Chronomaster Sport Titanium is priced at US$11,800 on a bracelet and a bit less on a strap. It’s priced comparable to other Zenith models with the same movement, and broadly speaking a good value proposition as far as sports chronographs go, with the Daytona being about 40% more expensive...
Monochrome
Any serious watch buff is familiar with the story of Zenith’s El Primero high-frequency automatic chronograph calibre of 1969. Fast-forward to the 21st century, and Zenith’s iconic movement ticks on thanks to upgrades and ever-higher frequencies to track elapsed times. A variant of the brand’s famous Zenith Chronomaster – itself a descendant of the iconic […]
SJX Watches
This year is the 40th anniversary of Hayao Miyazaki’s Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind, a 1984 Japanese anime film portraying the titular heroine’s valiant adventures in a post-apocalyptic world. To mark the occasion, anime studio Studio Ghibli and Seiko created the Presage Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind SPB437, a limited edition with an unusual combination of finishes, namely a blue enamel dial and a brushed steel case. Initial thoughts Seiko has long incorporated Japanese pop culture into its timepieces, drawing inspiration from iconic franchises such as Gundam and the Street Fighter video game. While the new Presage isn’t the first collaboration between the watch brand and Studio Ghibli, the Nausicaä edition is arguably amongst the best due to its classical, almost minimalist design. Even though it is a cartoon-inspired watch, the Nausicaä edition has a restrained aesthetic with stylish details. Particularly notable is the blue enamel dial featuring the emblem of the Princess Nausicaä and elongated indices. The simplicity of the dial design, combined with a steel case featuring an unusual aged finish completes the aesthetic that sets it apart from the typical Presage model. Its clean styling stands out even compared to the earlier Presage Castle in the Sky from 2021. The Nausicaä edition is priced at US$1,600, a modest increase over the previous Studio Ghibli model but still affordable. As is often the case with affordable Seiko limited editions, the m...
Fratello
As watch lovers, we tend to be drawn to mechanical movements. There is something mysterious about the dozens of springs, wheels, pinions, jewels, screws, and plates that conspire to unwind a mainspring and turn its stored tension into a precise display of the time. I think the allure is in the fact that it is […] Visit Five Analog Quartz Watches That Prove The Snobs Wrong to read the full article.
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