Hodinkee
Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst Limited Edition
A surprise release continues the celebration for 25 years of the Datograph.
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Hodinkee
A surprise release continues the celebration for 25 years of the Datograph.
SJX Watches
For the milestone anniversary of its famed chronograph, A. Lange & Söhne hasn’t held back on commemorative editions. Starting with the Datograph Up/Down in blue and then the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”, the German brand now concludes the anniversary with the third and final celebratory edition, the Datograph Handwerkskunst. A finely executed watch that will instinctively appeal to Lange fans, the yellow gold Datograph Handwerkskunst is unsurprising given the occasion. And like past Handwerkskunst editions – this is the eighth watch in the Handwerkskunst series – it is relatively inaccessible: the watch is limited to just 25 pieces and substantially pricier than the regular production Datograph. The L951.8 in the Datograph Handwerkskunst Initial thoughts The original Datograph set the benchmark for a high-end, classical chronograph movement when it was launched in 1999. Exceptional both aesthetically and technically, then and now, the Datograph remains equally impressive 25 years later. The Datograph Handwerkskunst has all the familiar traits that defined the model for the past 25 years. On top of that, it has an artisanally decorated dial finished with tremblage. And more significantly, the movement gets a substantial extra dose of black polishing on all the chronograph levers, enhancing an already impressive chronograph calibre. Notably, the Datograph Handwerkskunst returns to the Datograph design of 1999. The tremblage dial has the neo-c...
Deployant
Lange continues with the Datograph celebrations with the Datograph Handwerksunst edition of their iconic Datograph for Watches & Wonders Shanghai 2024.
Fratello
The Oris Aquis is one of the brand’s most successful watches. Its modern and muscular looks are a hit. No wonder the people in Hölstein put a lot of effort into bringing out new versions every so often. This April, a new version of the Oris Aquis Date was presented with updates regarding ergonomics, aesthetics, […] Visit Introducing: The Muscular New Oris Aquis Chronograph to read the full article.
Monochrome
Albishorn is a new independent brand born to create “imaginary vintage” – watches that could have existed, capturing the allure of the past while exploring the possibilities of what might have been. Inspired by a “what if” spirit, the brand’s inaugural model seeks to answer the question: “What would a modern regatta chronograph have looked […]
Worn & Wound
Well, it wouldn’t be Geneva Watch Days without some wild new release from Massena LAB. Last year, the well-known design house partnered with Sylvain Pinaud to offer up a take on Pinaud’s modern marvel of a chronograph. This year, they’re looking back, joining with a brand new independent watchmaker making their debut at Geneva Watch Days, Albishorn, to give us something a little different. Albishorn, as I said, is a brand new indie brand with a unique focus - creating what they call “imaginary vintage” watches that bend watchmaking history to create something a little different. Their inaugural release, produced in partnership with Massena LAB, imagines a hypothetical late 1930s regatta chronograph (or regatta timer if you prefer), inspired by Le Bol d’Or Mirabaud - the world’s largest inland lake regatta, first run in 1939 on Lac Léman. A quick glance at the new Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph will leave vintage heads with a clear sense of origin. The new watch clearly pulls design language from Rolex’s iconic Zerographe chronographs, the early predecessor to now iconic watches like the Daytona. The watch’s dial layout is also reminiscent of World War II multi-scale chronographs, and the mono-pusher layout certainly invokes a vintage charm. Obviously, this is not a genuine vintage watch, and certain details of the Maxigraph betray that. The execution feels quite modern, with sharply machined elements like the stark red pusher on the case flank, mu...
Hodinkee
The trio of relatively young brands plans to collaborate and work outside of traditional watchmaking structures to grow independent brands in new ways.
Monochrome
The latest Oris Aquis Chronograph doesn’t reinvent the wheel and certainly doesn’t need to, but it brings a welcomed refresh to the Aquis chrono that follows in the footsteps of the updated 2024 Aquis Date. A noticeable visual change is the arrangement of the three sub-dials, now in a “smiley face” format (as Oris puts […]
Worn & Wound
One of the most buzzed about launches of this year’s Geneva Watch Days is a project shared between J.N. Shapiro, Ming, and Fleming. These are three of the most well liked indies in recent memory, each occupying a distinct niche in the community. J.N. Shapiro is a brand that embodies the spirit of classical watchmaking, but based in the United States with goals (mostly reached) of being a completely self-sufficient high-end American brand that does everything the old-fashioned way. Ming is a brand that we’ve covered frequently in these pages. They’ve emerged from a Kickstarter-like model to become one of the most creative indies around, capable of producing compelling and creative pieces at both the consumer level and a much higher haute horlogerie space. Fleming is the upstart, seemingly borrowing the best ideas from Shapiro and Ming and twisting them into something all their own. These brands have been teasing an announcement at Geneva Watch Days fairly incessantly for several weeks now, and speculation as to the nature of the project reached a fever pitch in the days leading up the big reveal. While you could certainly be forgiven for expecting a new watch release, Ming, Shapiro, and Fleming have something perhaps more ambitious in mind: an alliance of like minded independent brands. Dubbed the Alternative Horological Alliance, this new venture promises to make each brand better with a larger focus on promoting independent watchmaking beyond “established, conve...
Monochrome
Collaborations in the watch industry have become all the rage, bringing diverse brands and creative minds together. While most collabs typically result in a single watch that blends the DNA of two brands, high-end independent watchmaker H. Moser & Cie and micro-brand Studio Underd0g join forces for a fun and unexpected collab dubbed “it’s about […]
Worn & Wound
It’s been an undeniably good year for watches over at Oris. Whether your tastes skew toward the Aquis or the Divers Sixty-Five, there have been plenty of wonderful new additions to the Oris catalog in 2024, from the all-new Aquis introduced at Watches and Wonders to the slew of exciting LEs that have punctuated the year. For Geneva Watch Days, Oris is continuing the trend, marking Geneva’s second biggest week in watches with not only a new Divers Sixty-Five LE but a brand new generation of Aquis Chronograph as well. Since its introduction in 2015, the Divers Sixty-Five has been a clear hit for Oris. It’s one of those watches you actually see in the real world, and the versatile model has been the platform for some of the brand’s most popular and sought-after collaborations and limited editions. This summer alone has seen three wildly different interpretations of the Divers Sixty-Five hit the market, each with its own distinct appeal. This latest addition to the lineup sees Oris collaborating with France’s Ligue de Football Professionnel (LFP), along with LFP’s charity partner CNAPE (the National Convention of Child Protection Associations). Inspired by CNAPE’s mission, this 1,000-piece LE is replete with small details highlighting the partnership. Standouts here include the deep blue dial and the distinct font used for all the dial text, which is inspired by a child’s handwriting - a choice augmented by the rainbow of color used to spell out “water resi...
Monochrome
Bulgari’s novelties for Geneva Watch Days are grouped around the theme of sound. Among the more classical notes of its new chiming watches, Bulgari is also introducing a special version of its Aluminium GMT inspired by the famous Stratocaster guitar made by Fender in 1954. Donning the livery of the original Stratocaster, the new Bulgari […]
Fratello
Making its Geneva Watch Days debut, Norwegian independent brand Micromilspec has announced a new watch. Launched as a civilian model, the Milgraph is a serious military-inspired chronograph that packs a lot of functionality onto the wrist. It provides a column-wheel-operated chronograph movement with a GMT function in a blasted titanium case. At first glance, there’s […] Visit Micromilspec Launches The New Milgraph GMT Chronograph At Geneva Watch Days to read the full article.
Fratello
We’re in the thick of Geneva Watch Days 2024. For some brands, this means debuting novelties. Today, Armin Strom brings us the Dual Time GMT Resonance – First Edition, an all-new take on the brand’s well-known complication. Folks, this one’s a beauty. Armin Strom is no stranger to creating highly complicated Haute Horlogerie timepieces. The […] Visit Introducing: The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance – First Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Super-Compressor Longines Diver ref. 7042 launched in 1959 and has since become an ambassador of sorts for the aquatic sports collection. Traditionally sized at 42mm with or without a date window, a more compact 39mm no-date variant debuted in 2023 and quickly became a fan favourite. This came with two lacquered dial colours, blue […]
Fratello
In January 2022, Ressence introduced the Type 3 BBB, a “Black, Black, Black” version of its oil-filled mechanical watch. My colleague Dave dubbed it “the brand’s best model yet.” However, Ressence limited the production of the watch to that year only. If you were looking for an all-black Ressence Type 3 after that, you were […] Visit Introducing: The Ressence Type 3 BB2 In Nearly All-Black Attire to read the full article.
Monochrome
If I asked you to name things that are 1.65mm in height, or less, would you immediately think of a watch? More likely you’d be thinking of credit cards, coins maybe, or even a sheet of cardboard. But a mechanical watch? Surely that can’t be done at such a slim height… Well, it can be […]
Time+Tide
The Italian jeweller and watchmaker pens a collaboration with the iconic American guitar manufacturer marking the 70th anniversary of the legendary Fender Stratocaster.The post Bulgari strike a chord with the Aluminium GMT x Fender Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Founded in 2010 by Mister Ferrier, a veteran from the watch industry and an experienced racing driver, Laurent Ferrier has forged a reputation of creating from of the most elegant watches around, as well as mechanical marvels such as the natural escapement. Mechanically impressive, his watches were, design-wise, subdued and refined, the smooth and soft […]
Quill & Pad
The Hautlence HLXX 20th Anniversary Edition is a limited edition of 20 pieces commemorating the brand's founding in 2004. The HLXX features a TV-shaped case with jumping hours and retrograde minutes.
Fratello
Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks! Today, Nacho, RJ, and Thomas share their vintage watch wishlists. As you can imagine, these guys spend a lot of time thinking about watches. But when they’re not writing about the latest releases, they’re often lusting after (and hunting down) vintage watches online. It’s a hazard of the job. […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Vintage Watch Wishlists to read the full article.
SJX Watches
MB&F;’s sculptural clocks made by L’Epee 1839 have ranged from sci-fi spiders to robots. And now the pair have debuted their most elaborate and expensive desk clock to date, the Albatross. Inspired by the airship of the same name in the Jules Verne novel Robur the Conqueror, the steampunk Albatross does more than tell the time. The clock also incorporates an hourstriker as well as a propellor automaton that activates alongside the hourstriker. Initial thoughts The Albatross is more interesting mechanically than MB&F;’s past collaborations with L’Epee, which were mostly about the form of the clock. This, on the other hand, incorporates mechanics into the design with the propeller automaton linked to the hourstriker. Coupled with the chiming and spinning propellors, the sheer size – 60 cm high and some 17 kg – makes the Albatross a truly impressive object. But the Albatross costs about CHF120,000 before taxes, which is a big number even considering its complexity. While the impressive mechanics and careful construction of the clock arguably justify the price, the price tag puts it in competition with a lot of compelling watches, at least for a watch collector. For someone looking for an impressive desktop object or the ultimate in home decor, this has arguably less competition. Jules Verne’s airship Made of steel, brass, and aluminium, the Albatross contains two separate movements. The first is a twin barrel, eight-day movement for the timekeeping and hourstriker...
Worn & Wound
Two prominent industry insiders have recently collaborated to establish a new watch company, Gagà Laboratorio, based in Switzerland. Mo Coppoletta will serve as the Art Director, and Ruben Tomella as the owner of the Italy based Gagà Milano brand and the newly formed company, Gagà Laboratorio. Mr. Tomella has had a successful tenure with Gagà Milano for two decades. He founded brand offshoot Manufacture Gagà in Switzerland, which has focused on creating high-end products for Gagà Milano in collaboration with leading industry partners, including the development of tourbillon movements in partnership with Hysek, a Swiss independent brand. In 2020, Mr. Tomella decided to redirect the activities of the Swiss company and embarked on establishing a new brand, Gagà Laboratorio. The mission of Gagà Laboratorio is to create entry-level luxury timepieces that emphasize design while maintaining high-quality movement standards. To achieve this vision, he partnered with artist Mo Coppoletta, a long-time friend. Together, they have initiated this new chapter for Gagà. Mo Coppoletta is a world-renowned artist, designer, and tattoo artist, known for his collaborations with Bvlgari on two Octo Finissimo limited editions featuring his tattoo artwork. In my interview with Mr. Tomella, he discusses the vision of Gagà Laboratorio. “After 16 years in the watchmaking industry at the helm of Gagà Milano, in 2020, I felt a strong pull towards the world of independent watchmaking and d...
Monochrome
Hyper Horology. A term coined by the Roger Dubuis manufacture that perfectly describes its complex and extravagant watchmaking style. The brand doesn’t shy away from uniquely creative and colourful expressions, regularly incorporating exotic materials stemming from the automotive or aeronautical world. Roger Dubuis’ latest adaptation of its cornerstone Excalibur collection not only incorporates a double […]
Worn & Wound
As India’s luxury market continues to grow, there has been an opportunity for more domestic-made brands to shine. One such brand is the Bangalore Watch Company. Since 2018, the brand has been making timepieces that are inspired by the rich landscape and heritage of the subcontinent. One such series of watches, MACH 1, has centered on the Indian Air Force. Past iterations have focused on various motifs, from formation aerobatics to aircraft carriers. For their latest launch, Bangalore Watch Company has set their sights to the clouds and high-altitude helicopters. The Himalayas have long captivated the cultural imagination of the world – and especially those in India. With over 1,600 peaks with a towering 6,000 meter presence, the mountain range inspires both fear and awe. It’s incredible, then, to think that some of the top aviators in India use helicopters for reconnaissance and resupply operations in some of the most challenging flying conditions on the planet. Enter the Mach 1 Avalanche, inspired by the harsh beauty of the Himalayan peaks and the danger that is intrinsically tied to the airspace. This is first evident with the “Frostpeak” dial, inspired by freshly fallen snow, which shimmers with a motif de grain that plays with light in varying conditions. The bright red minute hand, coated with Super-Luminova, draws inspiration from airspeed indicators and the vibrant colors of mountain rescue helicopters while the case back is engraved with an image of a hel...
Monochrome
First presented in 2017, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono surprised a bit the brand’s fans with its mix of classic dive watch elements (solid water-resistance and snowflake hands) and racing cues, with the chronograph function and external tachymeter bezel. Multiple editions of this watch will follow, all powered by a Breitling-derived automatic movement, including the […]
Monochrome
Since 2019, Bangalore Watch Company has been expanding its MACH 1 portfolio to honour local aviation like the Indian Air Force MiG 21, Indian Navy Aircraft Carrier INS Vikrant R11 and Indian women in commercial aviation. The latest MACH 1 Avalanche celebrates high-altitude mountain rescue helicopters at the peaks of the Himalayas. The thin air […]
Monochrome
Italians are known for quite a few things, amongst which is their unmistakable sense of style and design. From fashion and shoes to automobiles, kitchen appliances, furniture and art, Italian flair is ever-present. So much so, that specific terms are used to describe people who embrace this flamboyancy and elegance. The term Gagà for instance, […]
Monochrome
Polo is a highly important name for Piaget. It dates back to 1979 when the brand launched its luxurious solid gold watch with an integrated bracelet and signature gadroons all around. Although it was recently recreated, today’s audiences associate the name Piaget Polo with something far more contemporary and sleeker. Presented in 2016, the Polo […]
SJX Watches
In its original form, the Piaget Polo is an all-gold watch emblematic of 1970s style, but the model’s latest incarnation is the opposite. The Polo Skeleton Ceramic has an ultra-thin movement open-worked in a clean, geometric style, presented in brushed black ceramic case. Based on the original in steel, the Polo Skeleton Ceramic is dressed in restrained colours of black, grey, and dark blue, for a minimalist, low-key aesthetic. Initial thoughts The modern Polo has evolved since its original form of 2016, and with the evolution the model has gained its own character. While the original version felt like a typical luxury-sports watch with its patterned blue dial and prominent bezel, the skeleton in ceramic looks original. The matte black ceramic case matches the technical appearance of the movement, though I would have preferred grey or even white Super-Luminova. The blue lume matches the rotor and Piaget’s corporate colour, but it is too unorthodox (and it also glows less brightly). Though finished with the same alternate brushed and polished surfaces as its steel counterpart, the ceramic case feels more refined given the comparative challenge of finishing ceramic to the same degree as steel. The cal. 1200S1 is open worked in a modern style that is typical of many current skeleton movements. All of the bridges have clean lines and surfaces, which complements the case and dial aesthetic. The movement finishing is industrial-haute horlogerie, though I would have employed ...
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