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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak 34 mm in Black Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Jul 12, 2021

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak 34 mm in Black Ceramic

For its second round of new launches for 2021 – after the headline-grabbing Black Panther watch – Audemars Piguet (AP) unveiled Royal Oak models in a range of sizes and complications. The novelties are, in short, gorgeous variations of the brand’s octagonal watch. One of the most notable is the smallest amongst the new models. For the first time, AP is applying the full-ceramic treatment to a smaller Royal Oak. The Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm Black Ceramic is no doubt good news for enthusiasts who want a more compact but unusual version of the simple Royal Oak (availability notwithstanding). Polished and brushed ceramic Initial thoughts While ceramic has long been synonymous with makers of high-end sports watches like AP, it was used sparingly for the Royal Oak, until four years ago when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Black Ceramic made its debut. But the all-ceramic Royal Oak models since then have been complicated, including a white-ceramic perpetual calendar or the skeletonised double balance. That makes the 34 mm model in black ceramic a pretty big deal – it’s the first base-model Royal Oak in ceramic. But being a Royal Oak, it still feels familiar, which is a good thing if you like the Royal Oak as I do. Despite being amongst the simplest of Royal Oaks, the new 34 mm model is striking. The pink gold accents on the bezel and dial create the right amount of contrast to break up the monochromatic ceramic, giving the black ceramic a touch of luxe. Consequent...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Duobox LE.8 Chronometer artfully balances tradition and modernity Time+Tide
Jul 11, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Duobox LE.8 Chronometer artfully balances tradition and modernity

This is not the first time we’ve shown you a watch from Switzerland’s Brellum, an independent brand created in 2016 by fourth generation watchmaker Sébastien Muller. And although this is our Micro Mondays feature, Brellum is really established enough as a small manufacturer to deserve to be called an atelìer, with an exclusive production of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Duobox LE.8 Chronometer artfully balances tradition and modernity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why Romain Gauthier Is The Logical Heir Apparent To Philippe Dufour – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jul 11, 2021

Why Romain Gauthier Is The Logical Heir Apparent To Philippe Dufour – Reprise

It’s no secret: GaryG is an immense admirer of Philippe Dufour. Part of greatness, of course, is leaving a legacy; not only through one’s works, but in the skills and inspiration passed on to those who follow, which Dufour has liberally done. But who, if anyone, will history regard as the lineal heir to the Dufour tradition? Gary has reached what may seem a counterintuitive conclusion: Romain Gauthier.

HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks Jul 11, 2021

HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact

The evolution of an iconic design is interesting. How do designers keep something fresh, without losing the identity that made it an icon in the first place? Be it the iPhone, the Porsche 911 or the Nik Air Jordan sneaker, it’s a challenge that organisations around the world struggle with and this year IWC took … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Euro 2020 Watch Cup: Which team boasts the most expensive watches? Time+Tide
Jul 11, 2021

The Euro 2020 Watch Cup: Which team boasts the most expensive watches?

In soccer, sorry football, players can make obscene sums of money and like any superstar athletes use their salaries to acquire some very expensive timepieces. With the UEFA 2020 tournament reaching its climax this weekend, we will finally have a winner after the tournament was delayed for a year due to COVID. But as watch … ContinuedThe post The Euro 2020 Watch Cup: Which team boasts the most expensive watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bovet Fleurier Miss Audrey Sweet Art: Real Sugar Crystals On The Dial Glisten Like Tiny Colorful Pearls (No Licking!) Quill & Pad
Bovet Jul 10, 2021

Bovet Fleurier Miss Audrey Sweet Art: Real Sugar Crystals On The Dial Glisten Like Tiny Colorful Pearls (No Licking!)

While its convertible Amadeo case allows the Bovet Miss Audrey watch to be easily converted to a pendant or desk clock, the focus of Sweet Art is its incredible sugar crystal dial. Joshua Munchow was skeptical when he first heard about the sugar being used but the results speak for themselves, and it is hard to argue that the dials aren’t indeed gorgeously crafted. You must see this for yourself.

#Kixntix: Pack up your duffel bag and head on safari with the khaki green Longines Spirit Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Jul 10, 2021

#Kixntix: Pack up your duffel bag and head on safari with the khaki green Longines Spirit

The term amalgamation is not particularly sexy, but nonetheless the recipe of success for the Longines Spirit collection. While the brand’s Hydroconquest range is all about cool modernity and the Heritage series revels in vintage delight, the Spirit offers an artful blend of past and present. On one hand there’s the perfectly sized 40mm steel … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: Pack up your duffel bag and head on safari with the khaki green Longines Spirit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Could your smartwatch make you mentally tougher? The military is hopeful that it can Time+Tide
Jul 10, 2021

Could your smartwatch make you mentally tougher? The military is hopeful that it can

In the line of duty, soldiers are routinely subjected to wildly stressful situations. How they handle that mental strain can make a vital difference to how they perform under pressure. Even when enemy bullets are whizzing about their heads, soldiers are required to maintain the necessary composure to think clearly and act decisively. Military training … ContinuedThe post Could your smartwatch make you mentally tougher? The military is hopeful that it can appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The IWC Big Pilot 43 gives an iconic watch a modern upgrade Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot 43 gives Jul 9, 2021

VIDEO: The IWC Big Pilot 43 gives an iconic watch a modern upgrade

The IWC Big Pilot is not quite so big anymore. That’s right, the new IWC Big Pilot 43 is now a full 3mm smaller in diameter compared to the previous 46mm generation, but doesn’t lose any of the impact that it has on the wrist. The iconic pilot’s watch has been updated to become more … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC Big Pilot 43 gives an iconic watch a modern upgrade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Linde Werdelin Nord collection delivers hardcore tool watches loaded with arctic cool Time+Tide
Casio n Jul 9, 2021

The new Linde Werdelin Nord collection delivers hardcore tool watches loaded with arctic cool

Note: This is a rather momentous occasion for me as a writer and Independents Editor for Time+Tide.  July 10 is my one-year anniversary for the site with 294 stories to my name, a number that boggles my mind (and that of my very, very patient and beautiful wife). It has been a crazy, loving ride … ContinuedThe post The new Linde Werdelin Nord collection delivers hardcore tool watches loaded with arctic cool appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Canvas for Hokusai SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Canvas Jul 9, 2021

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Canvas for Hokusai

Debuted in 1931, the ubiquitous reversible watch is marking its 90th anniversary this year. Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has rolled out several special editions for the occasion, from a digital hours to the uber Reverso with four faces. But the latest anniversary edition is pared-down in mechanics, but elaborately crafted. JLC turned to its enamel workshop for the Reverso Tribute Enamel, a time-only watch with both the dial and back decorated in grand feu enamel. Most remarkable is the miniature painting on the reverse of the case, which is a miniature version of Kirifuri Waterfall, a 19th century woodblock print by Hokusai, the Japanese artist most famous for The Great Wave off Kanagawa, a print depicting roaring waves with Mount Fuji in the distance (which JLC already put on the back of another Reverso three years ago). Initial thoughts The Reverso Tribute Enamel is a evidently a good looking watch. Simple on the front, looking similar to the standard model, the watch is discreetly captivating, thanks to the green, wavy guilloche dial that evokes the serene motion of the flowing water. And hidden until the case is flipped over is a miniature enamel painting that’s even more outstanding. The brand’s miniature enamelling has long ranked amongst the best in the industry – it was one of the first to establish an in-house enamel studio – and this watch shows that JLC has preserved its prowess. The back is a near-exact recreation of the original woodblock printing by Hokusa...

Recovered, recast, reinvented: The Zero West H1 Hurricane encapsulates another moment in British aviation history Time+Tide
Jul 9, 2021

Recovered, recast, reinvented: The Zero West H1 Hurricane encapsulates another moment in British aviation history

Racing, diving, and pilot’s watches are the three pillars of the sports watch category. There is a lot of demand for these kinds of watches, and as a result there is a saturation of novelties in a familiar format. Zero West, however, takes things to the next level. Their watches are living mementos of history, … ContinuedThe post Recovered, recast, reinvented: The Zero West H1 Hurricane encapsulates another moment in British aviation history appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Wiz Khalifa vs Mia Khalifa, Seiko Spring Drive, and the launch of the first Tudor Boutique in Australia Time+Tide
Tudor Boutique Jul 8, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Wiz Khalifa vs Mia Khalifa, Seiko Spring Drive, and the launch of the first Tudor Boutique in Australia

Who is your pick: Roger, Mandy, Dudley or Julianne? I’m asking, of course, about who is your favourite celebrity with the surname “Moore” (Roger is the correct answer, of course). But this idle pub game received a horological twist in the Time+Tide office this week, when the team spotted two well-known and entirely unrelated personalities … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Wiz Khalifa vs Mia Khalifa, Seiko Spring Drive, and the launch of the first Tudor Boutique in Australia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic takes a bold leap into the future Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Jul 8, 2021

The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic takes a bold leap into the future

In 2017, Rado decided to bring back their 1960s classic, the Captain Cook diver. Sparking positive reactions from the watch media, while making a strong connection with many a vintage watch lover’s heart, it became an instant success. Subsequently, Rado has refused to rest on their laurels by continuously evolving the line. We have seen … ContinuedThe post The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic takes a bold leap into the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Alec Baldwin just posted the best new watch alert of the year for his Kurono Toki Time+Tide
Jul 8, 2021

Alec Baldwin just posted the best new watch alert of the year for his Kurono Toki

I was fortunate enough to receive my Kurono Toki this week, and took to Instagram the day I received it to celebrate my new watch alert. Unknowingly, however, I was totally upstaged by none other than actor Alec Baldwin who had already shared his #NWA weeks earlier. This is truly what #watchfam loves to see. … ContinuedThe post Alec Baldwin just posted the best new watch alert of the year for his Kurono Toki appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

I just can’t quit you! The watches that we’ve bought, sold and bought again… Time+Tide
Jul 8, 2021

I just can’t quit you! The watches that we’ve bought, sold and bought again…

There’s a line usually attributed to Albert Einstein that claims that “Insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.” Unfortunately, this brutal logic can apply to watches, too. You buy a particular timepiece but, after the initial honeymoon period wears off, you realise that it’s perhaps no longer as indispensable … ContinuedThe post I just can’t quit you! The watches that we’ve bought, sold and bought again… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Perpetual Twin CronotempVs Edition SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Jul 8, 2021

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Perpetual Twin CronotempVs Edition

Unveiled five years ago, the L.U.C Perpetual Twin is Chopard’s most affordable perpetual calendar, but finely executed as is typical of L.U.C, the brand’s line of mechanical watches powered by top-class in-house movements. Featuring details absent in similarly-priced peers, such a micro-rotor movement and oversized date, the Perpetual Twin has since been iterated into several versions, but the winner is now clear: the L.U.C Perpetual Twin CronotempVs Edition, a collaboration between the watchmaker and eponymous collectors club based in Spain. The CronotempVs edition has a striking palette: dial with an uncommon, grained-gold finish with black sub-dials and indices, giving it a strong, high-contrast look that suits the largish steel case. Initial thoughts Chopard’s prowess in watchmaking is indisputable – its top-of-the-line creations rival even the work put out by best independent watchmakers – but the brand is often overlooked, especially since prevailing fads mean most turn to bigger names or “safer” choices. And it doesn’t help that Chopard generates most of its revenue from cheerful ladies’ watches and jewellery. The L.U.C line stands out for its movements with sophisticated construction and finishing, even for the simplest, entry-level models – demonstrated by the double-chronometer wristwatch unveiled earlier this year. But it still receives a lukewarm reception from the broader market. That’s in part due to the designs, which are often satis...

VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s collection offers fresh sizes and a wider array of choice Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s collection offers fresh Jul 8, 2021

VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s collection offers fresh sizes and a wider array of choice

Last year, IWC focused on revamping their impressive Portugieser line. In 2021, it’s the turn of the IWC Pilot’s collection that’s expanded to offer greater choice than ever before with a veritable squadron of new pieces. Highlights include a new Big Pilot that’s downsized from the slightly intimidating 46mm to a more wearable 43mm option. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s collection offers fresh sizes and a wider array of choice appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Prepare to be mesmerised by the dial of the Laine 1817 engraved first series Time+Tide
Jul 7, 2021

Prepare to be mesmerised by the dial of the Laine 1817 engraved first series

Torsti Laine is a relatively fresh face on the independent watchmaking scene, releasing his first watches back in 2016, but he’s quickly made a name for himself  by offering affordable and customisable watches. Born in Finland, Laine was a computer programmer before he turned his hand to watchmaking, enrolling in the Kelloseppäkoulu Finnish School of … ContinuedThe post Prepare to be mesmerised by the dial of the Laine 1817 engraved first series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.