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Introducing: The Oris Big Crown Calibre 473: A New (In-House) Movement In A Familiar Package
description and review of Oris 473 a new hand wound watch
Results for Geneva Watch Days
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko’s First Limited Editions of 2023 Celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the 9S Caliber
It’s an often repeated mantra around here: every year is an anniversary year. And if a watch brand is going to be successful in today’s hyper competitive market where, frankly, a lot of brands are offering products that are remarkably similar to one another, they need to differentiate themselves. And looking at a calendar, and figuring out how many years it’s been since “X” accomplishment or “Y” watch was first released is (usually) a decent runway for explaining what makes you special. To that end, Grand Seiko is embarking on what will apparently be a year of celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Caliber 9S, a movement which has become foundational to Grand Seiko in the decades since its debut. The Caliber 9S has become a broad family of movements over the years, as Grand Seiko has continuously refined the caliber, including adding GMT functionality. Grand Seiko has used the 9S movements as a platform for their MEMS engineering techniques, which allow for insanely tight tolerances in movement making for certain key components, and you could probably argue that 9S movements represent the most traditional watchmaking currently practiced by the brand. Today, 9S movements are universally known to be reliable and rock solid high frequency calibers that often perform even better than the specs would indicate. Most recently, the 9S served as the springboard for the creation of Grand Seiko’s next generation Hi-Beat movement, the 9SA5. While it might not be t...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Original
One of the “it” watches of the 1980s, Hublot’s porthole-inspired watch on a rubber strap has been revived. Forty-two years since the brand made its debut with the iconoclastic hublot watch – it was the first watch to combine a gold case and rubber strap – the brand is paying tribute to its founder Carlo Crocco with a new range modelled on the original design. Taking after the original in look and feel, the Classic Fusion Original collection comprises three sizes, each available in three material configurations. Initial thoughts Almost minimalist in its design, the Classic Fusion Original is simpler and sleeker than the typical Hublot. It is relatively compact and thin in all three sizes – the largest model is 10 mm high – giving it a surprisingly elegant profile on the wrist. The no-frills design is strongly appealing, except for the date window, which isn’t too prominent but still unnecessary. And I would have gone even further in the minimalist direction by doing away with the seconds hand. That said, both the date and seconds are part of the original 1980 design. Despite the clean styling, the watch is instantly recognisable as a Hublot. In fact, the Classic Fusion Original is arguably more distinctively Hublot than the some of the brand’s other models, which occasionally resemble offerings from Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Starting at around US$8,000 in titanium with an automatic movement (the smallest, 33 mm versions are all quartz), the Cl...
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline 36 mm
In 1971, Zenith introduced the Defy, a steel sports watch with an octagonal case and tetradecagonal bezel that was the inspiration for the Defy Skyline, a simple three-hander in steel with an integrated bracelet. Today, the brand has updated the Skyline with a smaller case of 36 mm and three new dial colours. While its design is nearly identical to its larger sibling, the reduced size of the new Skyline makes it more wearable. Initial thoughts The highlight of the Defy Skyline is its compact, 36 mm size. For someone like me who leans towards classic proportions and prefers smaller watches, the size is a plus while also making it more wearable. Along with the size, the clean, simple design is also versatile enough for both genders. And the option of a diamond-set model and bright dial colours certainly elevate its appeal for a wider audience. At US$8,500 for the standard model and 50% more for the diamond-set variant, it is priced competitively against comparable sports watches. And while it might not have all the bells and whistles of some of Zenith’s signature chronograph offerings, it’s easy to like for someone looking for a straightforward sports watch with an in-house movement. More colours and a compact size While the original Defy Skyline was 41 mm, the new version is considerably smaller. In spite of its reduced size, the case still retains the distinctive octagonal form with a brushed finish and matching bracelet. But it is equipped with a strap-change mechan...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Zenith Debuts The New Defy Skyline Skeleton
The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton announced at LVMH Watch Week 2023. Read for specs, photos, and an analysis from Two Broke Watch Snobs.
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10 Watch Brands That Were Better Before: Omega, Timex, Invicta & More
SJX Watches
Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer
LVMH Watch Week, the year’s first significant watch fair, just kicked off in Singapore. In some ways a warmup for Watches & Wonders in March – the biggest watch fair of the year – the LVMH Watch Week is where the watchmakers owned by the French group show off their wares. Amongst them is TAG Heuer, which has revived one of its less-known racing chronographs from the 1970s but in a thoroughly modern style. The Monza Flyback Chronometer is a flyback chronograph featuring an open-worked dial and a 42 mm carbon composite case. Initial thoughts Perhaps the most aggressively modern chronograph in TAG Heuer’s current line-up, the new Monza liberally reinterprets the 1970s original. While the vintage Monza is not famous as the Carrera or Monaco, it is interesting in several respects, including the fact that it was the first serially-produced Heuer to sport a black-coated case. The carbon case and open-worked, asymmetrical dial show another face of TAG Heuer, but one that still fits with its motorsports-chronograph heritage. Certainly a TAG Heuer that is different, the Monza has clearly been conceived to cater to contemporary tastes, which is a good thing given that TAG Heuer already has an ample offering of faithful vintage remakes. But the new Monza comes with a caveat, a steep price. Coming in at US$13,500, the Monza costs double the Autavia Flyback Chronograph that has the same movement but a no-frills steel case. Even considering the carbon composite case and fanc...
Deployant
New with hands-on: Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton
Kicking off LVMH Watch week, we get some hands-on time to get up close and personal with the new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 “Expanding Hands”
Even though Breguet is not a name that instantly comes to mind when it comes to ladies’ watches, the brand makes one of the most distinctive female watches on the market today. Late last year Breguet debuted perhaps its most ladies watch in some time: the Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 that both possess a quirky yet graceful complication inspired by “expanding hands” pocket watches from the 18th century. Immediately recognisable thanks to its distinctive egg-shaped case, the Reine de Naples was inspired by similarly-ovoid bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples and the younger sister of Napoleon. Reine de Naples – literally “Queen of Naples” – remains the brand’s signature watch for ladies, though the line-up has grown to encompass many iterations over the years. Admittedly, the models are numerous enough that few leave a lasting impression, but the “expanding hands” allow the new duo to easily stand out. Initial thoughts I was impressed when I first laid eyes on the new Reine de Naples. Neither is a typical ladies’ timepieces that lazily relies only on a bejewelled case to stand out. Both models have a striking, elegant aesthetic that’s slightly more modern than expected from Breguet but still possessed of enough intricate detail. Though seemingly simple at the glance, the new Reine de Naples has a clever and unusual hour display with “expanding hands”. The simplicity of the time display combined with the n...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris Announces the Big Crown Calibre 473
To kick off 2023, Oris officially revealed the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473-a watch showcasing the latest evolution of their in-house Caliber 400.
Deployant
New: Parmigiani Tonda PF Xiali Calendar
Parmigiani releases a new watch with a traditional Chinese Calendar and precison moon phase indication - the Tonda PF Xiali Calendar.
Video
Borealis Olisipo Green Dial Review - Best Micro Diver Under $500? Automatic 300m Dive Watch
Time+Tide
The Hamilton Murph is a wrist-bound movie star in its own right
As both a watch buff and a film buff, I love it when those two worlds collide. When we see a watch on screen, it’s usually a brief glimpse, scarcely enough time to make out the model, but sometimes, said timepiece actually becomes central to the plot. The James Bond ouvre is the prime example … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Murph is a wrist-bound movie star in its own right appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk JPS
De Bethune expands their DB 27 Titan Hawk lineup with a new watch influenced by motorsports, and the Lotus F1 team's John Player Special colourway.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions
As business ventures, microbrands can sometimes seem a little bit soulless. All it takes is one person with some starting capital and a catalogue of parts to put together an attractive watch that offers good value for money, but that formula is becoming harder and harder to replicate for watch enthusiasts whose collections are beginning … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic
In a space where so much history has gone before, it’s nigh impossible to create a timepiece that’s totally unique. For example, just about any dive watch you can name shares at least some DNA with the Rolex Submariner or Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms. It’s called classic rock for a reason, and for every Omega Speedmaster, … ContinuedThe post The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Azimuth Mr. Roboto Bronzo Artist Series
There exists a droll class of watch for which telling time takes a back seat to the packaging itself. And the Azimuth Mr. Roboto Bronzo Artist Series is a great example of this class, Tim Mosso explains why.
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Farer Anti-Magnetic Pilot automatic Morgan, Cayley, Bradfield Swiss SW200 Automatic pilots watch
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Meistersinger Primatic is a single-handed shake-up for your collection
Meistersinger may be renowned for their single-handed watches, but there is the extremely rare occasion they release a watch that has two. Of course, it would be silly to assume that means you get a traditional hour and minute hand, as the Meistersinger Primatic instead gives you their emblematic mono-hand as well as a power … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Meistersinger Primatic is a single-handed shake-up for your collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Sonatina Peaceful Nature: Wind Down And Relax With This Wrist Zen Master
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous is a watch with delightful complications: an alarm watch with a day-night indicator. And the Rendez-Vous Sonatina Peaceful Nature offers a busy world some tranquil zen.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update
Davey boy, oh Davey boy. Barstool Sports founder Dave Portnoy has already found himself in hot water with, what he refers to, as “watch geeks”. The launch of his watch brand Brick Watch Company was absolutely ridiculed by watch enthusiasts online, the recurring theme being that his designs were unimaginative, generic, ugly and overpriced. In … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Minya Konka Limited Edition
Monblanc extends their diving watch collection - the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date inspired by the highest mountain in Sichuan province, China.
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: Giving Some Long-Overdue Love To The Cartier Ballon Bleu
Sure, Cartier designers are known for more angular watches like the Tank and Santos, but could their more daring option be a traditional round watch?
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Piaget's quest for the world's thinnest mechanical watch, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept
Deployant
Review: the new Dievas Maya MK III
We take a look at a solid diver's watch, albeit from a less-known watch brand. Cue the robust and reliable German-made Dievas Maya MK III.
Time+Tide
The three watches Buffy wore most in 2022: Seiko, Citizen and Omega
While the new year is often a time that enthusiasts admire how their collection has grown, mine drastically shrunk last year. After I sold my favourite watch in January for a variety of reasons, as discussed in this article, I was left re-evaluating my other watches alongside my priorities. As of now, my collection consists … ContinuedThe post The three watches Buffy wore most in 2022: Seiko, Citizen and Omega appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Fifty Fathoms “70th Anniversary Act 1”
Twenty twenty-three marks the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s landmark dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms. Introduced in 1953, the diver was revived in 2003. Kicking off the commemorative editions is the Fifty Fathoms “70th Anniversary Act 1”, the first instalment in a year’s worth of anniversary models. Like the current model, the “Act 1” is inspired by the vintage model, but sports dimensions patterned after the original from seven decades ago, with a reduced case diameter of just over 42 mm. Initial thoughts The familiar form of the modern dive watch is due in part to the Fifty Fathoms – whether that or the Rolex Submariner was launched first is an endless debate – so it is unsurprising that Blancpain’s current catalogue includes a vast array of Fifty Fathoms-inspired timepieces. Thankfully, Blancpain has done something to cater to watch enthusiasts with the anniversary model that has a smaller diameter, perhaps in response to criticism that the closest equivalent in the line-up is 45 mm wide (Blancpain does offer dive watches with smaller cases, but they are either limited editions or the Bathyscaphe). Even though the anniversary watch is broadly similar to the standard Fifty Fathoms in terms of design, it has been refined and arguably improved, especially on the dial. Blancpain skipped the easy route of copying the earlier model and scaling it down. Instead the designers commendably captured the spirit of the original with the vintage typography un...
Quill & Pad
Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Dunes of Mars: The Red Planet on your Wrist
Mars is a planet with a lot of mystery, its red sand surface occupying the dreams of those who ache to set foot on its surface. For watch enthusiasts who want to make waiting until that happens a bit more bearable, Christiaan van der Klaauw introduces the Planetarium Dunes of Mars.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Announces Prize for Independent Watchmakers
Independent watchmaking has been gaining rapid momentum in the last three years. Young and talented watchmakers have emerged to seek recognition (and sometimes riches) in the mould of Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe. Now the field is about to get the nod of approval from the luxury-goods establishment, with Louis Vuitton having announced the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. Conceived to promote “horological creativity”, the award begins in 2023 with a broad remit. It is open to anyone in watchmaking and watch design, and even from fields related to horology. Initial thoughts As the world’s largest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has unsurprisingly been making high-end watches for some time – last year was the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical wristwatch. Following its acquisition of Geneva movement maker La Fabrique du Temps in 2012, the brand’s ambitions have grown, resulting in impressively complicated watches like the Tambour Carpe Diem, a minute repeater with automaton. From that perspective, the Louis Vuitton prize is a natural extension of the brand’s progress as a watchmaker, a way for Louis Vuitton to make known its commitment to high-end watchmaking. The fact that Louis Vuitton is using its considerable resources – the brand’s 2021 revenue was in the region of €15 billion – to support independent watchmakers is a welcome development. The prize money is substantial, reputedly in the low six ...
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