Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Cubitus In 40mm
A slightly downsized Cubitus captures exactly where we are on the watch-design timeline.
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Hands-On: The Rolex Daytona Ref. 126508 "John Mayer 2.0"
The new model is starting to be delivered, and it's more than just another kind of green dial. We go in-depth to compare old vs. new.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Vertex M36, a Compact Take on the British Field Watch
By now, the history of the Dirty Dozen military watches is probably well known to just about everyone who would be reading an article like this, but here is a brief overview for any of you stragglers. Over 80 years ago, as World War II was raging on, the British Ministry of Defence (M.O.D.) saw […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Patek Philippe 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph, And A Look Back At The Last Ten Years Of High-End Watch Collecting
This watch is lush. And important. Does the arc of the 5370 stand as the archetype of what has happened to high-end watchmaking in the last decade?
SJX Watches
Hands On: Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak
One of the standout releases from Dubai Watch Week was the UR-Freak, a collaboration between Ulysse Nardin (UN) and Urwerk that embodies some of the most enduring motifs of each brand. More UN than Uwerk, the UR-Freak nonetheless incorporate’s the latter’s satellite wandering hours display, adapted to the Freak’s slow-moving flying tourbillon. A limited run of just 100 individually numbered pieces, the UR-Freak confers some of Urwerk’s disruptive cache to UN, a legacy brand celebrating its 180th anniversary next year. The wandering hours tourbillon To understand why the UR-Freak is such a compelling collaboration, one must understand what UN and Urwerk bring to the table, respectively. The UN Freak turns 25 in 2026, marking a quarter-century of the quirky tourbillon that introduced silicon to watchmaking. That innovation alone would have secured the Freak’s place in watchmaking history, but it was arguably more memorable for its unusual design that put much of the movement (including the escapement) on a rotating platform on the dial. The Freak One is an example of the typical Freak architecture. Ulysse Nardin refers to this architecture as a flying carousel, perhaps to differentiate the standard models from those with a nested tourbillon. Nomenclature aside, it’s technically a tourbillon by nature of its operation, which powers the escapement through a fixed-ring gear (which can be seen around the edge of the dial). In all previous Freak models to date, the mo...
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Hand Delivering a £90,000 Rolex to a VIP Client! (Platinum Daytona Baguette Dial)
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Breguet's New Classique 7225 Features Some Of The Industry's Most Impressive Watchmaking
Technicality and beautiful design is what Breguet was all about, today as much as 250 years ago.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Reference 5308G 'Quad Comp' – Patek Philippe's Modern Vision Of High Complication Watchmaking
When the market demanded big watches, Patek held the course. Then, in its own time, the brand launched this maximalist, ultra-complicated watch that will define Patek's future.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Glassbox Carrera Is A Masterclass In Collaboration
Hiroshi Fujiwara's classic spin on the iconic model's most recent redesign is a match made in heaven (or Harajuku, really).
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Breguet Classique 7235, My Favourite Watch of the 250th Anniversary
As most of you might know by now, this year Breguet celebrated its 250th anniversary. And this highly important brand, whose founder has been instrumental in the development of modern watchmaking, has released rather incredible models all year long. It started with a deceptively simple Souscription model that won the GPHG 2025, followed by a […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean For 2025
A closer look at the fourth generation of Omega's modern dive watch, which was recently redesigned for 2025.
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Hand made Enamel Quilloche dial AND Tourbillon for under $1.000!!! - Manilone G2
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Sleek TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Fragment Limited Edition
TAG Heuer‘s relationship with Hiroshi Fujiwara, founder of Fragment Design and a pioneer of Tokyo street culture, has become one of the most stylistically consistent collaborations in contemporary watchmaking. Their first joint venture in 2018 distilled the vintage Carrera into its purest form; the second, in 2020, reinterpreted the 1970s Autavia through a graphic, bolder […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Kollokium Projekt 02 - The Second Offering From The Radical Swiss Platform Is Another Watch That Defies Comparisons
In-depth with the next Kollokium project that pushes boundaries while staying practical and highly wearable.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Echo/Neutra Combines Brutalism And Compact Elegance To Create The Rivanera Piccolo
The brand's second foray into its Rivanera series nails its objective with fewer compromises.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Marc Newson Teams Up With Ressence For The Type 3 MN
An homage to Newson's Ikepod designs from the 90s, paired with the ultra-modern watchmaking of Ressence's oil-filled Type 3, leads to an unabashedly unique collaboration.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Biver Automatique with Exotic Stone Dials
Biver expands its Automatique line with a diverse set of new dials that underscore the brand’s fascination with permanence, ranging from billion-year-old mineral stones to finely executed enamel and traditional guilloché. In a year crowded with stone-dial releases, the latest Automatique models stand out for the coherence of the concept and the quality of execution, offering collectors a mix of exotic materials, artisanal craft, and a technically unusual calibre across a wide price spectrum. Initial thoughts Jean-Claude Biver talks a lot about eternity. The slogan for his namesake brand, “eternity has no competition”, is an eloquent expression of what drives the Biver family enterprise, founded with his son Pierre and now led by chief executive James Marks. Beyond the ability to keep time, mechanical watches appeal to enthusiasts precisely because they seem to exist outside of time. Few modern products are crafted from such noble or enduring materials, and for many people a mechanical watch is among the most lasting man-made objects they will ever encounter. Biver’s obsession with eternity is clear in the products themselves. In the case of the Automatique, the brand has chosen to use especially long-lasting materials like gold for the movement plates and bridges, going so far as to used a high-palladium gold alloy that will not tarnish over time. The overly robust cases are another clue as to the motivations of the people behind the Biver brand. Water resistant t...
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Get This Watch Before It's Too Late - The Best Kept Watch Secret - Royter Watches Hand Made in NYC
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Tissot PRX Damascus Steel 38mm – One of the Biggest Surprises of 2025
It’s pretty uncommon for a watch line to maintain top-of-mind relevance with the watch community for more than a couple of years. Trends change, the hype spotlight shifts, and newness becomes necessary. We’ve seen brands try to push watches past their expiration points, resulting in diminished excitement and inevitably disappointing. With that said, one line that has endured far longer than I would have expected and is still going strong is the Tissot PRX. Launched in 2021, the PRX was an early entry into the affordable integrated sports watch category, which has also lasted longer than I would have bet. Yet despite being “several” years old, Tissot continues to surprise with updates to the PRX line, keeping it genuinely exciting. Smartly, they haven’t just used it as a throwback line, but rather to experiment with materials that typically come with a higher price tag. Notably, last year they made a forged carbon-fiber version that was lightweight and stealthy. While a material that had come downstream, so to speak, in the years prior, it was still unexpected from Tissot. But 2025’s entry wasn’t just surprising for Tissot; it was surprising for any large-scale brand, especially an affordable one. If you told me I’d be wearing a Damascus steel Tissot that cost $1,175 a few years ago, I would have said, “shut your face!” Just kidding, but I would have been immensely skeptical. An artisanal material, often seen in knife making, it’s scarcely used in watc...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Military Watch Showdown: Hands-On Testing The Marathon TSAR vs CWC SBS Diver
We’ve tested both of these iconic military watches to break down design, build, and military-grade toughness.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Chopard L.U.C. Grand Strike
The 30th anniversary of the Chopard L.U.C. manufacture was one anniversary among many this year, but it will likely be remembered thanks to the Grand Strike, the most complicated watch in Chopard’s history and its first grande sonnerie. Building on the successful Full Strike minute repeater architecture and making full use of the brand’s patented sapphire gongs, the Grand Strike is a chronometer-certified two-train clock watch with a push-button minute repeater. In this context, the presence of the tourbillon is almost a footnote. Initial thoughts I can count on one hand the number of brands that have created their own grande sonnerie wristwatch. It’s one of the few things in watchmaking that’s proven challenging enough to still be rare, even in the days of computer-aided design (CAD) and advanced manufacturing technology like wire erosion. For this reason, the grande sonnerie has a towering cultural presence among watchmakers and collectors, looming above all other complications. For Chopard, the Grand Strike represents the culmination of 30 years of the L.U.C. manufacture, the brand’s haute horlogerie division. The first impression of the Grand Strike is one of extraordinary depth. There’s not much of a dial, save for the minutes scale etched on the inside of the sapphire crystal, and the small concentric sub-dials for the dual power reserve displays. This depth shrinks the watch visually, and it feels dense and compact despite its rather large 43 mm size and...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Czapek Time Jumper With A New Caliber To Celebrate A Ten Year Anniversary
The Time Jumper is Czapek's first jump-hour watch and features a half-hunter case, a nod to the brand's pocket-watch legacy, in both gold and steel.
SJX Watches
Hands On: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis
Earlier this year F.P. Journe unveiled its most daring jewellery watch yet, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis, set with the largest baguette rubies ever used in watchmaking. Despite the current popularity of high jewellery watches, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie (TVJ) Rubis is an audacious undertaking that required eight years to accumulate the right gemstones – and the destruction of 61 carats of gem-quality rubies to make this single watch. Initial thoughts Haute joaillerie watches of this sort are not new; the 1980s and 1990s saw significant demand for gem-set complicated watches, especially in Asia. But Over the last decade such watches have shifted from niche offerings to an important (and resilient) pillar of the business for many brands. Coloured stones are seeing marked interest too, as a sort of trend within a trend, as exemplified by Rolex’s “Rainbow” Daytona, one of the brand’s hottest models. Patek Philippe’s 2022 launch of the gem-set Grandmaster Chime trio can also be seen as a milestone for the genre, with one of Geneva’s flagship fine watchmaking brands adorning its flagship watch with diamonds, emeralds and sapphires. A unique Piaguet minute repeating pocket watch that’s a fine example of 1990s gem-setting high horology But with the TVJ, it’s clear that F.P. Journe is not simply following industry trends – this watch is eight years in the making and belongs to a two-decade tradition of high jewellery tour...
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Omega Seamaster America's Cup 2024 Editions: Andrew's in-hand first impressions
Hodinkee
Auctions: A Look at the ‘Grosse Pièce’ – Audemars Piguet’s Most Complicated Pocket Watch Still in Private Hands, Up for Auction at Sotheby’s
The watch, a part of the late Robert Olmsted's history-changing collection, goes up for sale on December 8.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson
Ressence has unveiled the Type 3 Marc Newson, an 80-piece limited edition that unites Marc Newson’s softly contoured, playful futurism with Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens’ long-running pursuit of a ‘dematerialised’ time display. Functionally unchanged from the standard Type 3, the MN edition introduces a colourway and set of visual cues drawn directly from the famed industrial designer’s archives, resulting in a new watch that feels instantly familiar. The Type 3 MN retains Ressence’s signature oil-filled upper chamber, which eliminates optical distortion and makes the indications appear projected onto the underside of the crystal - an effect that reads almost digital at first glance. Initial thoughts Some collaborations seem almost predestined; the partnership between Benoît Mintiens and Marc Newson is one of them. Both men share an affinity for modern minimalism and pebble-like organic forms, so their first joint project feels like an overdue meeting of minds. Benoît Mintiens and Marc Newson. Image – Ressence The Type 3 MN manages to combine the best instincts of both designers, resulting in a watch that lends an Ikepod-like lug-less case to Ressence’s signature oil-filled display. We’ll come back to the design, but one of the most impactful aspects of the Type 3 MN is its comfort on the wrist. Mr Newson is well known for his ergonomic designs; the strap he designed for Ikepod was later licensed by Apple, making it possibly the world’s most pop...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Clemence Photic MKII
The young British brand refines its easy-wearing diver with a suite of upgrades, including hardened steel, anti-magnetism, and more.
WatchAdvice
Has The New Seiko 5 Supercars Hit An Apex? (Hands-On)
Seiko and Supercars Australia hit the road again with a brand-new limited edition for 2025! But can it keep the pace, or will it fall behind? Let’s find out! What We Love: Hot colourway and design inspiration Accessible price and wearability for most Love to see another Australian exclusive! What We Don’t: Seiko straps are always stiff Bezel far too easy to turn How ‘limited’ should a ‘limited edition’ be? Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 7/10 I think it’s fair to say that Seiko has been on quite a roll this year. It’s been a turbulent time for the watch industry, given how both the Swiss and German markets are faring under economic circumstances. But the horological ‘Beast from the East’ just keeps getting better and better. You might think this comes from behind a pair of rose-coloured glasses; After all, we at Watch Advice are passionate advocates for the Japanese powerhouse. But if you don’t want to hear it from us, try Seiko themselves. According to the brand’s 2025 Q2 report, their 2024 Financial Year (April 2024 – March 2025) saw their net global watch sales swell by nearly 12%. An impressive feat, especially considering that the Swiss Federation of the Watch Industry (FHS) reported a near 3% decline in Swiss watch exports in 2024. Seiko And Watch Advice Team Up For An Amazing Collector Night But of course, these triumphs aren’t just because people suddenly decided to buy Seik...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel in Rose Gold
A few striking updates to AP's most unique execution of a time-only watch.
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