Hodinkee
Introducing: Serica Expands Its Field Watch Offering With The New 6190 M.S.L Chronometer
New dials and colors form an elegant tribute to the golden era of sport watches.
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Hodinkee
New dials and colors form an elegant tribute to the golden era of sport watches.
Worn & Wound
It’s hard to believe, but this year marks the fifth anniversary of Serica, one of our favorite small brands to emerge in the affordable, independent watch scene. In a relatively short period of time, Serica has developed a truly distinct design language that bridges the gap between vintage sports watches and casual elegance, often with just a hint of a military inspired aesthetic. They’re really quite unlike any other watch on the market, and yet they’ve always felt immediately familiar. Their newest release, the 6190 M.S.L Chronometer, isn’t exactly a watch made to celebrate the brand’s fifth year of existence, but it’s impossible to see it and not reflect on the path they’ve taken and growth they’ve experienced over the last half decade. The new 6190 is an updated take on what many fans of the brand would surely say is Serica’s calling card, the simple, military inspired field watch. When the brand launched their very first field watch, it showed promise but was perhaps a little rough around the edges. In the ensuing years, everything about the brand’s output has been slowly and subtly tweaked, and the 6190 feels like a culmination of that constant improvement. The specs, of course, are more robust than Serica’s watches of five years ago. This, in a lowkey, watch nerd way, is perhaps the most exciting recent development for the brand. Since last year, Serica has made a commitment that all of their watches will be certified as COSC chronometers. ...
Monochrome
Independent, Malaysian-Swiss brand MING is not necessarily associated with dive watches… At least, it might not be the first style of watch that you would imagine the brand creating. Thin, elegant watches with a twist, or maybe an ultra-light watch… Sure. When it comes to dive watches by MING, we have to go back to 2019 […]
Monochrome
What started as Massena LAB’s venture to create watches in collaboration with accessible niche brands or renowned independent watchmakers has grown to another level. Now, the horological creative studio not only designs and develops watches but has gotten to the point of co-developing its own proprietary movements. First seen with the Old School watch, made […]
Fratello
Is the hype for luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets over? If you look at a benchmark in this market segment, the steel Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo,” which sold for four times retail at the height of the wave, is now going for “just” twice the price on the secondary market. So, yes, the […] Visit Hands-On With The Gerald Charles Masterlink Blue - A Luxurious Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch to read the full article.
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Fratello
I love watches that refuse to stick to a genre and offer a clean-slate perspective that doesn’t look back in time. Going hands-on with the J&Berg; B2, I see both of these qualities and put Finland on the map of microbrand cool. Titanium is very much the material du jour, but I have a conflicted […] Visit Hands-On With The J&Berg; B2 - A Genre-Busting Titanium Sports Watch to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The trajectory of Sartory Billard over the last few years has been one of the most unusual and interesting stories in the world of independent watchmaking. The brand had long been established as a leader in fully bespoke watches. The entire premise of the brand was built on the idea that every piece is unique, with wide customization options available to virtually every aspect of the dial. They’ve also been associated with great value, and were generally seen as an affordable option for adventurous fans of independent watchmaking who wanted something literally unique well under five figures. None of that has changed, really, but Sartory Billard’s recent output has seen them upping the ante considerably, with a new tourbillon movement and plans for an even more complex caliber featuring jumping hours and jumping minutes. Another example: a new collaboration with Grail Watch featuring an incredibly ornate and over-the-top mirror finish on nearly every visible surface. Grail Watch 11, the Sartory Billard SB07 “Ghost,” takes the brand’s integrated bracelet sports watch design and a design motif they’ve become known for and turns the proverbial volume up past the breaking point. Of the many options Sartory Billard offers to customers in their customization program, one particularly popular one is their fully polished dial. The SB07 seen here takes that idea and expands it to the case and bracelet, effectively making the steel components “invisible,” hence the ...
Time+Tide
Can you commit to one watch brand for life?The post The Time+Tide team picks the one watch brand they would wear for life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Incomplete and totally subjective, but the first big auction season is in the books, so it's time to talk about some of the results, good and bad.
Time+Tide
Small indies achieved spectacular results at the Only Watch charity auction this year, with Furlan Marri a particular standout.The post Why independent brands were the big winners of Only Watch 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Teddy Baldassarre
Watchmaking is a trade that goes back to the 16th Century, and building mystique and legitimacy on a long, historical legacy is a common theme we find in many companies that make watches today - particularly those whose roots reach back for a century or more. But which companies have really been making watches the longest? In a way, it’s a sticky question, one that can lead one into a minefield of semantics and trivia. Jaquet Droz, for example, claims a founding date of 1738 but the modern version of the company was established in 2000 when Swatch Group acquired the name. A. Lange & Söhne carries on the tradition of the original company founded in Saxony in 1845 but has really been in operation only since 1990 (and to be fair, the company is very transparent about this). The Swiss-based Graham brand traces its legacy all the way back to the London atelier of British watchmaker George Graham in 1695 but has no connection to it other than design inspiration. In assembling the following list of the oldest watch brands still making watches today, I went with the companies that, in my judgment, can legitimately claim a direct lineage to the original founding, even allowing for ownership changes and periods of dormancy along the way. Without further ado, here is a countdown of the 15 oldest watch brands in the world today; you may be surprised by who is included as well as by who is excluded. 15. Zenith (1865) Zenith's founder Georges Favre-Jacot was only 22 when he founded...
Hodinkee
A jumping-hour driver from the '70s leaps back into gear.
In this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, we’re coming to from the Gateway Pavillion at Fort Mason in San Francisco, where just last week nearly 100 watch and gear brands came together for the biggest Windup Watch Fair on record. It was a truly great time, and we’re excited to do it again in Chicago in just a few months! As is customary for the Windup editions of A Week in Watches, we’re bringing you highlights from the show this week. Managing Editor Zach Kazan talks to Mike Pearson about the all new Christopher Ward Twelve X – one of the true sensations not just of Windup, but in the watch world at large over the last few weeks. He also chats with Nicholas Bowman-Scargill from Fears and Rob Caplan from Topper Jewelers about their latest collaboration, which launched at the fair, and he spends some time with another new release from Paulin that was also a huge hit with the San Francisco crowd. Finally, Zach chats with Trip Henderson, Founder of Lōcī Watches, a young California based brand making their Windup Watch Fair debut. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 80 – Highlights from the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Seastrong Diver Extreme GMT has the water resistance of a diver, and functionality of a travel watch.The post The Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme GMT makes a play for a truly affordable sports watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
In March 2022, the global watch market was at an all-time high. A stainless steel Rolex Daytona was worth just over €50,000, any new limited-edition watch would sell out in a matter of minutes, and sites like Fratello attracted a lot of new readers. Since then, things have cooled down substantially. According to Chrono24, that […] Visit Weekend Contemplation: The Watch Market Isn’t In Crisis, But How Should We Describe Its Current State? to read the full article.
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Monochrome
Microbrands are reshaping today’s watchmaking landscape in remarkable ways. These small-scale ventures craft enticing timepieces, leveraging modern technology, marketing strategies, and the combined expertise, passion, vision, and business acumen. What’s particularly striking, at least for some, is their ability to deliver well-designed, high-quality watches at compelling prices, often packed with features typically associated with much […]
Worn & Wound
A long lived pet peeve of mine in the watch industry is people referring to watches as “Brutalist” without having a clue about what the term really means. How, I always wonder, can a brand refer to their watch as being inspired by Brutalist architecture without it even being made of concrete? Well, the debut watch from Toledano & Chan is properly Brutalist in a very specific way, and truly lives up to its inspiration. And while the watch itself might not be made of concrete, the box is (really), and as someone who identifies Boston City Hall as one of his favorite buildings, that scores major points in my book. The B/1 is the result of a collaboration between watch designer Alfred Chan and artist, watch collector, entrepreneur, and budding TikTok personality Phil Toledano. You may remember Phil from his appearance on the Worn & Wound podcast, and if you’ve spent any time looking at watches on Instagram or TikTok, you’ve likely seen him unboxing new (but actually old) Pateks, Cartiers, and Piagets with his pal Mike Nouveau. Phil (who goes my Mr. Enthusiast on social media) has long been one of my favorite collectors for his eccentric and adventurous taste, fully embracing the strangest and rarest designs by the aforementioned brands and many others. If the industry as a whole is currently moving toward smaller watches, shaped cases, stone dials, and the avant-garde, let it be said that Phil got there first. He’s been interested in this stuff for years, and bangi...
Fratello
The history of a watch can be vital for its ongoing success. But while Doxa’s Sub 300 had a storied past, the brand did not survive the Quartz Crisis. Thankfully, in recent years, under the stewardship of the Jenny family, Doxa has been going from strength to strength. It is time that we had a […] Visit Why The Doxa Sub 300 Is A Watch Icon Worth Your Time to read the full article.
Monochrome
New brands are created almost daily in the watch industry. Still, most of these newcomers or microbrands start with rather generic and accessible watches, powered by outsourced movements. Nothing wrong with that, but we sometimes wish for more. And ALTO, a new brand created in Paris, does bring a lot more. Radical design, out-of-the-box thinking, […]
SJX Watches
A no-frills time-only watch, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is now the brand’s entry-level model that’s available in a variety of dial styles and sizes, including the sought-after “Bubbles” dial. But Rolex has been making watches for long enough that the Oyster Perpetual from many moons ago is now a six- or seven-figure watch. Two of these special Oyster Perpetuals figure prominently in Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. They are final two lots on the last day of the sale: lot 218 is the Oyster Perpetual ref. 6098 “Galaxy”, and lot 219 is the Oyster ref. 6102 cloisonné “La Caravelle” with bombe lugs. The Oyster ref. 6098 “Galaxy” The Oyster ref. 6102 “La Caravelle”. Both are time-only watches with Oyster cases, but the opposite of no-frills. They date from the 1950s, when Rolex was experimenting with a diverse range of dials for the Oyster Perpetual (and perhaps the recent 1908 in platinum is a return to form?) The “Galaxy” gets its name from the star-shaped indices on the glossy black dial, while “La Caravelle” refers to the cloisonné enamel dial made by a leading enameller of the period, Margueritte Koch. Today’s Oyster Perpetual with the “Celebration” dial of coloured bubbles Star-crossed Rolex watches with star dials are marvellous watches (which is why it was the inspiration for our Habring² Erwin “Star”). The most famous and expensive type of Rolex with such a dial is the ref. 6062 “Stelline” triple calendar. Less widel...
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Worn & Wound
It’s always fun when we get to introduce you to a new entrant in the micro-brand tool watch space, and today is no exception. Tuul (pronounced tool) is a brand new Brooklyn-based micro-brand with a focus on - you guessed it - tool watches. If you spend too much time on Instagram (who am I kidding, we all do), you may have seen teasers for their first watch peppered through your feed over the last year. Now, with the introduction of the Filthy 13, we’re finally getting to see what a Tuul watch looks like. For a new brand building their first watch, it is almost always the right choice to go simple. Making a watch is hard, making a good watch even harder, and overcomplicating the process can easily turn the whole thing into a jumbled mess. Besides, tool watches should be simple and straightforward, ready to do their job and not much else. So it’s no big surprise that Tuul has fallen back on a familiar source of inspiration for their first release - the Dirty Dozen watches issued by the MoD to British troops during World War II, which is in many ways the prototypical tool watch. The Filthy 13 follows closely in the footsteps of the Dirty Dozen Watch, Wrist Waterproof spec and carried over the familiar dial layout with central hour and minute hands, small seconds at six o’clock, large Arabic numerals, a railroad minute track, and an abundance of lume. The Filthy 13 swaps the radioactive paint used on the original dials for Super-Luminova, which here has a slightl...
Monochrome
Despite their original display, which splits time (for most of them) between central minutes, hours in a sub-dial at 12 o’clock and seconds in a subsidiary counter at 6 o’clock, regulator watches are some of the most classic you can imagine. The origin of these régulateur is nothing fancy, it has nothing to do with […]
Time+Tide
Last week, this pocket watch became the most expensive piece of Titanic memorabilia ever sold at auction.The post The story of John Jacob Astor’s £1.17 million Titanic watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The biannual charity sale always brings a lot of heat in terms of one-off special edition models - here are our favourites.The post Only Watch 2024: the Time+Tide team shares their favourite lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Watches & Wonder is just behind us… and that means a huge number of new watches for us to cover in articles and videos, and for you to discover. And now, we are planning an event where you can get some hands-on time with some of these new timepieces if you didn’t have the time […]
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