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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Limited Edition Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Sep 28, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Limited Edition

If you were to ask me what my favorite complication in watchmaking is, my answer would undoubtedly be the minute repeater. For me, fine watchmaking is about looking into the past and, while a completely unnecessary functionality in the modern world, there is an everlasting charm about a watch that can chime the time. Born … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), Again Close But Not Quite Unanimous In Our Pick For Winner Quill & Pad
Sep 27, 2021

Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), Again Close But Not Quite Unanimous In Our Pick For Winner

It might be hard to find six more diverse pieces! Three shaped watches, two with visible movement parts, one gimmicky “troll” watch, one Japanese timepiece, one by a fashion brand turned serious watchmaker, and one designed by one of the best watch designers of all time. Whew, this is gonna be tough!

One Hundred and Eighty Days with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin SJX Watches
Glashütte Original has Sep 27, 2021

One Hundred and Eighty Days with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin

A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Saxonia Thin 37 at SIHH 2016 as the entry-level model in its collection. But “entry level” is relative at Lange, a brand that famously applies the same rigorous standards of production and finishing to all its watches, from the Saxonia Thin to the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar that retails for more than US$300,000. For the purpose of this review, I will put this reputation to the test by examining each element of the watch in detail, and share my impressions of the ownership experience. Glashüttenomics Though owned by Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont – which owns over two dozen brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai – Lange remains a boutique outfit with an annual output of about 4,500 watches, and a maximum production capacity of about 5,500 watches. This is a fraction of competitors like Audemars Piguet at about 45,000 watches per year, and Patek Philippe, where the figure is over 60,000. While production volume is small, Lange is the largest employer in Glashütte, a small town with a population of about 8,000. Lange employs about 600 people at its Glashütte campus, though some commute in from the surrounding region, including the city of Dresden. This headcount is primarily devoted to watchmaking, since Lange relocated its marketing department to Berlin in 2017. For comparison, Glashütte Original has a similar number of employees in Glashütte, while producing about 13,000 watches per year, or about three ti...

From Patek to Omega, the artist creating the tiniest watches in the world Time+Tide
Omega Sep 26, 2021

From Patek to Omega, the artist creating the tiniest watches in the world

In recent years, there’s been a noticeable trend for watch cases returning to the smaller and more classical sizes of old. Robbie Jones (@robbiethepainter) takes it to a whole other level. The artist creates impeccably detailed models of miniature watches. How tiny? They have diameters under 5mm wide. “When I was five-years-old, my grandmother used … ContinuedThe post From Patek to Omega, the artist creating the tiniest watches in the world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world? Time+Tide
Sep 26, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world?

EDITOR’S PICK: “Audemars on my wrist, bustdown. We poppin’ bottles like I scored the winning touchdown….” As Meek Mill demonstrated in I’m a Boss, rappers have long held a deep fascination with luxury watches. But given their massive followings and proclivity for namedropping brands in their lyrics, do hip-hop’s big names influence consumers’ buying habits. To … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: The Baltic Aquascaphe Dual Crown draws from the past, but looks to the future Time+Tide
Baltic Aquascaphe Dual Crown draws Sep 26, 2021

HANDS ON: The Baltic Aquascaphe Dual Crown draws from the past, but looks to the future

When Baltic released the first look at its Aquascaphe Dual-Crown back in May, the first impression was that this was a step forward for a brand whose superb designs had quickly pushed itself to the front of the crowded world of affordable vintage-inspired watches. The original Aquascaphe took its cues from mid-century divers, with gilt … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Baltic Aquascaphe Dual Crown draws from the past, but looks to the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You Can’t Ask That: The crazy (new) demand for complicated AP watches Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet story Why Sep 25, 2021

You Can’t Ask That: The crazy (new) demand for complicated AP watches

This is the seventh and final video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. Why is it called, You Can’t Ask That? These are questions and topics that don’t commonly get addressed in the interviews with either Lucas Raggi, the Research … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: The crazy (new) demand for complicated AP watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: F. P. Journe at the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
F.P. Journe has swiftly become one Sep 25, 2021

Highlights: F. P. Journe at the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

F.P. Journe has swiftly become one of the most desirable independent watch brands, resulting in an ever growing selection on offer at auction. Perhaps the biggest single offering to date comes by way of Sotheby’s, which has amassed a 13-piece lineup of F.P. Journe watches for its upcoming Important Watches sale that takes place in Hong Kong on October 13, 2021. We round up eight of the most notable, a selection that naturally includes a Tourbillon Souverain “Souscription”, as well as several limited editions, ranging from Ruthenium to a Tokyo-boutique special. The full catalogue and registration to bid are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2085: Octa Réserve de Marche with brass movement Originally the entry-level model for the brand, the Octa Réserve de Marche is today a stealth watch of sorts since it is still a simple watch, but an unusually valuable one. Launched in 2001, the Octa Réserve was part of the original trio of watches launched by Francois-Paul Journe, coming after the tourbillon and Resonance. Despite being the brand’s entry-level wristwatch at the time, it still boasted a proprietary movement with an impressive five-day power reserve, though the running time was originally envision was eight days, hence the “Octa” moniker. The cal. 1300 developed for the Octa Réserve would then go on to be the base movement for the entire Octa collection. The best part of the Octa Reserve is its asymmetric dial. Showing the time, date and power reserve, the d...

The watches worn in HBO’s Succession are a masterclass in stealth wealth magnificence Time+Tide
Sep 25, 2021

The watches worn in HBO’s Succession are a masterclass in stealth wealth magnificence

Recently HBO dropped their trailer for the upcoming third season of their hit show Succession. The show revolves around an ageing media titan Logan Roy (Brian Cox) – a parallel of sorts to Rupert Murdoch – whose children are competing to replace him at the helm of his international conglomerate. The billionaire and his warring … ContinuedThe post The watches worn in HBO’s Succession are a masterclass in stealth wealth magnificence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: This guy bought 3 of the same model in different metals & left them in a safe for two decades. This is what happened next. Time+Tide
Omega released Sep 25, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: This guy bought 3 of the same model in different metals & left them in a safe for two decades. This is what happened next.

Editor’s note: Brian King is a man who knows his mind. When Omega released a limited run of George Daniels’ co-axial concept watches in the early 2000s, he knew immediately that he was interested in going deep. Over a couple of months, he bought all three. But that’s only the start of the story. Here he writes … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: This guy bought 3 of the same model in different metals & left them in a safe for two decades. This is what happened next. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Once Again Nearly Unanimous Quill & Pad
Sep 24, 2021

Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Once Again Nearly Unanimous

Complicated ladies' watches are not as rare as they once were, and the best thing is that they are not converted men's watches anymore but purposely designed and built specifically for female wrists. While there are a lot of absolutely stunning watches in the Ladies Complication category this year, they aren't that complicated and there are quite a few tourbillons. Nonetheless, our panel reaches something of a consensus.