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Beads of Rice Bracelet

Mid-century steel bracelet with discrete bead-shaped links; Gay Frères, NSA, Novavit; modern Forstner revival.

Annual Calendar Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 26, 2024

Annual Calendar Watches Guide

Annual calendar watches have been on the scene for a while now, though they remain a somewhat niche area of horological interest - not as revered as lofty complications like the perpetual calendar and minute repeater but also not as obsessed over as more down-to-earth mechanisms like chronographs and GMTs. And yet, the annual calendar offers not only one of the most practical functions for an everyday wearer, but has also proven to be a canvas for some truly engaging designs. As per its name, an annual calendar displays the day, date, and month and need only be manually adjusted by its wearer once per year, at the end of February. Patek Philippe's Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar introduced in 2023 Most of the wristwatch complications we’re familiar with are relatively ancient in origin, and almost all of them old enough to have debuted in pocketwatches rather than wristwatches. The first wristwatch chronograph, made by Longines, appeared in 1913; the first minute repeater for the wrist goes all the way back to 1892, invented by Louis Brandt, founder of Omega; and the first wrist-borne perpetual calendar made its debut in 1925, engineered by none other than Patek Philippe, which had actually invented the compact-sized movement for it as early as 1889, using it at the time in a ladies’ pendant watch. The annual calendar, by contrast, even though it might seem to today’s enthusiasts to be a fixture among luxury watch complications, is much younger, tracing its origin st...

Parallel Passions: Comparing Our Beloved Watch Hobby To The Guitar World Fratello
Jul 26, 2024

Parallel Passions: Comparing Our Beloved Watch Hobby To The Guitar World

Sometimes when we write articles at Fratello, we know exactly how they will land with our readers. Other times, we try something to see whether it strikes a chord. This is an example of the latter type of article. I consider myself lucky to have fallen in love with a hobby twice when so many […] Visit Parallel Passions: Comparing Our Beloved Watch Hobby To The Guitar World to read the full article.

Introducing – Hajime Asaoka Revives Extinct Japanese Brand Takano and Presents the Chateau Nouvelle Chronometer Monochrome
Casio ns but Jul 25, 2024

Introducing – Hajime Asaoka Revives Extinct Japanese Brand Takano and Presents the Chateau Nouvelle Chronometer

We’ve said it on multiple occasions but the world of watches isn’t limited to Switzerland, or to an extent, to Europe. There are fascinating watchmakers all over the globe, and Japan is one of the most prolific countries when it comes to independent watchmaking. One of them is Hajime Asaoka, not only the man behind […]

Bulova is Seeing Red with their Latest Lunar Pilot Worn & Wound
Bulova Jul 25, 2024

Bulova is Seeing Red with their Latest Lunar Pilot

It’s officially Space Watch Season. We just saw G-SHOCK release their latest collaborative release with NASA, and now Bulova returns with a new version of their popular Lunar Pilot, this one in a “blood moon” colorway. While the Lunar Pilot doesn’t have “first watch on the moon” pedigree like the venerable Omega Speedmaster, it does have its own legitimate spacefaring history. In 1971, Dave Scott, mission commander of Apollo 15, wore a similar Bulova Chronograph when he became the seventh man to walk on the moon. Unlike the Speedmaster, which was conceived originally as a racing chronograph, the Bulova on Scott’s wrist was designed specifically for use in space, specifically for timing related to critical life support systems. The Lunar Pilot has some aesthetic similarities to the Speedmaster (in their purest form, they are both black dialed chronographs, after all) but Bulova has shown a willingness to experiment with the Lunar Pilot recently, and it now feels very much like its own thing, existing well outside the long shadow of the Speedy. This latest iteration is a good example of how Bulova uses this platform to play with color and our expectations for a sports watch like the Lunar Pilot should be.  As you can plainly see from the images in this post, what we have here is a very red version of the Lunar Pilot, with a bright red main dial and three silvered subdials at 9:00, 3:00, and 6:00. The inspiration here, according to Bulova, is a total lunar ecli...

A New Dial Color for the Nomos Ahoi Worn & Wound
Nomos Ahoi German watchmaker NOMOS Jul 25, 2024

A New Dial Color for the Nomos Ahoi

German watchmaker NOMOS Glashütte has just released their latest Ahoi Neomatik 38 collection. Alongside Sky and Sand, we now have the Atlantic colorway. Inspired by the outdoor culture of seaside and island life, the Ahoi Neomatik 38 series combines sporty elements with a distinctive, sophisticated style.  Like others in the series, the Atlantic focuses on functionality without compromising on design. For swimming, diving, or sailing, legibility is key and this reference has large, readable numbers in an almost Art Deco font. The deep blue dial against the contrasting indices and hands aren’t just a great design choice, they also help to tell time in a variety of conditions while out at sea. Further to this, the hours and minutes are coated in Super-LumiNova to assist in low-light areas, such as during dives in open waters. The mixture of yellow hour markers, a red seconds hand, blue-black woven strap, and the 38.5mm stainless steel case all show a cohesive design language in the newAtlantic variant. The Atlantic runs on a NOMOS Neomatik caliber DUW 6101 with a 42-hour power reserve. This movement has a quick-set date function, which can be found at 3 o’clock. Given the aquatic inspiration for this watch, NOMOS has designed the case to be water resistant for up to 200 meters (20 atm).  Two references of this watch are available – the 518 and 528. The 518 has a stainless steel case back, while the 528 has a sapphire crystal case back. Both versions are available no...

Hands-On With The New Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date In Classic Atlantic Blue Fratello
Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date Jul 25, 2024

Hands-On With The New Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date In Classic Atlantic Blue

One year ago, I went hands-on with the then-new Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date collection. Two versions of the newly sized Ahoi debuted then, one in clear Sky blue and the other in beautiful Sand gold. The introduction of those two new models also meant the discontinuation of the 40mm Ahoi. That meant a larger Ahoi […] Visit Hands-On With The New Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date In Classic Atlantic Blue to read the full article.

Omega’s CK 859 in Bronze Gold for the Paris 2024 Olympics SJX Watches
Omega s CK 859 Jul 25, 2024

Omega’s CK 859 in Bronze Gold for the Paris 2024 Olympics

A timepiece that pays tribute to the medals of the Olympic Games, the Omega Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition is a riff on the vintage-inspired CK 859. It retains the same dimensions and design, but manages to incorporate all three medal materials – gold, silver, and bronze. The case is a bronze-gold alloy, while the dial is sterling silver with Clous de Paris guilloche. Initial thoughts Among the countless Olympic-themed watches – Omega launched its first 2024 Olympics watch over a year ago – the Bronze Gold Edition stands out for its unique use of materials. It’s a thoughtfully designed watch that celebrates Omega’s status as the timekeeper of Paris 2024. With no Olympics branding or emblems on the front, it’s not obviously an Olympics watch, but smartly captures the Olympic ideal by utilising the three alloys in the case and dial. At the same time, the Bronze Gold Edition is more visually interesting than the CK 859 that had a simple grained dial that was arguably too plain for the relatively wide dial. Priced at US$12,000, the Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition is a good value proposition. Though not novel, the vintage-inspired design is appealing and made more interesting with the guilloche silver dial. And as Olympics editions go, this one is subtle in terms of design yet entirely apt in terms of concept. A special gold alloy The model gets its name from Omega’s proprietary Bronze Gold, an alloy launched in 2022 with the Seamaster 300 that is actually low-cara...

It Can Dive As Deep As The Mountain Is High: A Hands-On With The Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 Fratello
Montblanc Iced Sea Jul 25, 2024

It Can Dive As Deep As The Mountain Is High: A Hands-On With The Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810

The new Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 might be the perfect watch for spec-loving divers. Let’s look at the data, the numbers, and the cold, hard facts. Montblanc’s latest dive watch, the flagship of the newly formed Iced Sea collection, has a 43 × 19.4mm case containing no oxygen and is water resistant […] Visit It Can Dive As Deep As The Mountain Is High: A Hands-On With The Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Joker Fiat Lux by Konstantin Chaykin Monochrome
Konstantin Chaykin Jul 24, 2024

Introducing – The New Joker Fiat Lux by Konstantin Chaykin

As an independent and highly talented watch and clockmaker and a member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) since 2010, Konstantin Chaykin was already well-known in horological circles. However, his popularity soared with the introduction of his Joker and the Wristmons (Wrist Monsters) series in 2017. The original Joker, followed by releases like […]

Editorial: the Seiko SRPG17 Land Tortoise, Outliers, and Collection Coherence Worn & Wound
Seiko SRPG17 Land Tortoise Outliers Jul 24, 2024

Editorial: the Seiko SRPG17 Land Tortoise, Outliers, and Collection Coherence

Watch collectors who have been in the hobby for awhile know there’s a certain pleasure in looking in the watch box, or across the flat surfaces in your home where watches are scattered, whatever, and seeing a group of watches that make sense. If you believe a collection is a reflection of your personality and taste, it follows that the watches in the collection will be thematically linked in some way, and just kind of work together. Instead of a watch box that has exactly one watch from each key genre, you see a box of watches that defy easy categorization, but somehow are obviously the product of a core collecting philosophy. I don’t know if I’m quite there yet, but I’m getting closer. But there’s still one watch in my collection that’s a clear outlier, one that will never quite fit. It’s the runt of the litter, the redheaded step-child, and ugly duckling, all wrapped into one. My Seiko SRPG17 “Land Tortoise” just doesn’t belong.  The Land Tortoise, so named because it shares a case shape with the much-loved “Seiko Turtle” divers but is equipped with a compass bezel rather than a typical dive timer, is an outlier even among Seiko sports watches. When we think sporty Seikos, proper dive watches are the ones that inevitably come to mind for most of us, but this is a dive watch in a costume. From the outset, it’s resisting its own nature, rejecting its heritage. It refuses to wear the uniform. I like dive watches and own a few, but they don’t ope...

Top 5 Vintage Inspired Watches Worn & Wound
Tudor s success Jul 24, 2024

Top 5 Vintage Inspired Watches

Vintage-inspired watches have been popular for a long time and with good reason. When a design is strong enough to stand the test of time, why shouldn’t it be revived? Look at Tudor’s success with the Black Bay, Oris with their Diver 65, and Doxa with their numerous Sub models. What about designs that originated in the 80s? Can they be considered vintage? Think about it: 1980 is as far away from us as 1936 was from 1980. That’s three full years before World War II even started! So, if anything made in the 1930s was considered vintage in the 1980s, most assuredly, things made in the 1980s are considered vintage now. If any of you feel old after reading that, here’s a list of 5 super-cool watches to make you feel young again. Vintage-inspired watches have been popular for a long time and with good reason. When a design is strong enough to stand the test of time, why shouldn’t it be revived? Look at Tudor’s success with the Black Bay, Oris with their Diver 65, and Doxa with their numerous Sub models. What about designs that originated in the 80s? Can they be considered vintage? Think about it: 1980 is as far away from us as 1936 was from 1980. That’s three full years before World War II even started! So, if anything made in the 1930s was considered vintage in the 1980s, most assuredly, things made in the 1980s are considered vintage now. If any of you feel old after reading that, here’s a list of 5 super-cool watches to make you feel young again. The post Top ...

Unimatic Adds The New Toolwatch Series To Its Permanent Collection Fratello
Unimatic Jul 24, 2024

Unimatic Adds The New Toolwatch Series To Its Permanent Collection

Most of you will know Unimatic as a brand that predominantly releases watches in limited numbers. These small-batch editions are often collaborative efforts that show great diversity. However, in 2021, after many limited editions, the brand unveiled a group of four standard models that are always available. With today’s introduction of the new Toolwatch series, […] Visit Unimatic Adds The New Toolwatch Series To Its Permanent Collection to read the full article.

Just In Time For The Summer Olympics: The Omega Specialities Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition (BG859) Fratello
Omega Specialities Paris 2024 Bronze Jul 24, 2024

Just In Time For The Summer Olympics: The Omega Specialities Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition (BG859)

If you’re the winning type that just can’t get enough of it, why not strive to bag all the medals you can win? “Impossible,” you say? Maybe, but you can get the new 39mm Omega Specialities Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition, a watch that combines gold, silver, and bronze. This vintage-style timepiece pays tribute to […] Visit Just In Time For The Summer Olympics: The Omega Specialities Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition (BG859) to read the full article.

Konstantin Chaykin’s Latest Joker Sports a Skeletonised Dial SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Jul 24, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin’s Latest Joker Sports a Skeletonised Dial

An unusual variation of the brand’s bestseller, the Joker Fiat Lux has a skeletonised dial revealing the signature Konstantin Chaykin “rolling eye” module that’s been decorated by hand. Fiat lux is Latin for “let there be light”, and a reference to the see-through dial. It’s limited to 38 pieces and intended for the brand’s retailer in China, West Wood Time in Beijing. Initial thoughts Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker has become a cult classic of sorts and the brand’s strongest seller by far. Since the launch of the original Joker in 2017, it has evolved into an entire collection known as Wristmon, short for “wrist monster”. The brand has put out many, many different Wristmons since, though the original is arguably the purest (while some variants are admittedly gimmicky). Being based on the original, the Joker Fiat Lux stands out. It is almost the same as the original, with identical dimensions, design, and functions, but with a skeletonised dial and an exhibition back, both of which make it more aesthetically pleasing than the original. The dial is skeletonised to show off the display module The Joker Fiat Lux is priced similar to comparable past Wristmon models. It’s relatively affordable for a distinctive and unique example of unconventional independent watchmaking – seen that from that perspective, it is good value. Though the base movement is a no-frills ETA 2824-2, but the display module is built by Chaykin and furthermore hand finished. The ine...

Hands-On: the Bravur Team Heritage Collection Worn & Wound
Bravur Jul 23, 2024

Hands-On: the Bravur Team Heritage Collection

I didn’t learn how to drive a car until I was 25 years old. This was partially motivated by the same frugality that draws me to budget watches, but mostly because bikes offered fun and freedom that cars simply couldn’t compete with. Whether running a quick errand as fast as my legs could carry me without fear of a speeding ticket or riding 100 miles in a single day just for the hell of it, bikes took me everywhere I needed to go. Representing simpler years filled with adventure, cycling was the only hobby that truly captured my heart in the same way watches do today. Though bikes are worth obsessing over and have their own enthusiast community not unlike watches, they have their limitations and mine went into the garage (which I suddenly needed for an old beat-up Volvo) when my daughter was born. It gathered dust, fell victim to tire rot, and was eventually forgotten all together due to its inability to house a growing number of car seats. It was around this same time I was bit by the watch bug, which in retrospect is no coincidence. Last year, cycling made an unexpected re-emergence in my life. I binge watched Tour de France: Unchained on Netflix, learning about different teams, seeing the colorful jerseys they wear, and getting a crash course in how much cycling has changed since I last checked in. Coincidentally, it was at this same time that my friends started pestering me to join them on the trail. Fun fact, did you know you can buy an entire bike for the price of...

[VIDEO] Twin Peaks: How Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan Use their Peak Design Everyday Backpacks Worn & Wound
Jul 23, 2024

[VIDEO] Twin Peaks: How Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan Use their Peak Design Everyday Backpacks

Back in February, Kat Shoulders and Zach Kazan emptied their tech pouches onscreen, in a video that showed you how each of them packs for a trip to the office. Today, the next logical step: Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan are emptying out their backpacks. But whereas our tech pouch video featured two very different packs, this one shows how Zach and Zach have arranged their gear in the same backpack, the Peak Design Everyday Backpack.  The Peak Design Everyday Backpack is notable for the way it can be customized by the user. Designed primarily for photographers, the backpack is fitted with three interior separators that effectively can be used shelves to store gear on. These “shelves” can be shaped and positioned in any number of ways, depending on what the backpack needs to carry, and they can be accessed from both sides of the pack and the top (via a unique magnetic panel).  Zach W. and Zach K. are using their backpacks in very different ways, illustrating the versatility of the design. For Zach W. this has become a true everyday backpack, and he fills it with those indispensable items that are needed on a daily basis. For Zach K., it’s more of a travel backpack, and he’s set it up for easy train commutes and hassle free flights.  Let us know in the comments if you’re a Peak Design Everyday Backpack user, and how you’ve set yours up to make the most of its flexible design. And if you’re not, let us know about your ideal everyday backpack.  The post [VIDEO] Tw...

Hands-on – Ready for the Olympics, The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Paris 2024 is a Winner Monochrome
Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Paris 2024 Jul 23, 2024

Hands-on – Ready for the Olympics, The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Paris 2024 is a Winner

The 2024 Paris Olympics, which will start later this week, mark 92 years of Omega‘s legacy as the official timekeeper for the Games. Since 1932 and for the 31st time, the Omega Timing team, with its unparalleled expertise, extensive personnel, and tons of equipment, will support the competing athletes. To truly grasp the extent of […]

Audemars Piguet Scales Down the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Scales Down Jul 23, 2024

Audemars Piguet Scales Down the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked

Audemars Piguet (AP) first unveiled the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked in 2016, in full-sized 41 mm format. It’s a technically interesting take on the brand’s signature luxury-sports watch. While it is a time-only watch, the skeletonised movement sports a pair of mirrored, superimposed balance wheels and hairsprings. Though already available in 37 mm with a sparkly “frosted” case or entirely gem-set, the 37 mm model wasn’t offered in the classic Royal Oak finish. Now the movement makes its debut in a compact 37 mm case in the traditional brushed-and-polished finish. It’s available in either pink or white gold with the open-worked movement colour-matched to the case metal. Initial thoughts  The Double Balance Wheel model is something of a halo model for the Royal Oak range. Though it is not complicated in the functional sense, it is equipped with an interesting feature that theoretically contributes to chronometry. Add to that the distinctive aesthetics of the skeletonised movement, and the result is a watch that is classical Royal Oak in design yet more sophisticated in technical terms. The original 41 mm model, however, was fairly large, and the angular form of the Royal Oak accentuated the size. The original 37 mm models were extravagant and perhaps too over-the-top for everyday wear. The new pair is easily more wearable and should appeal to a wider audience. The new models are each priced at US$98,100, which is comparable to the earlier versions...