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Quill & Pad
The components of a mechanical watch movement are little more than a series of springs and wheels held together by plates and/or bridges. No matter the configuration, complication or finish, the ensemble is secured by the humble movement screw. So it's a pleasant surprise that several watchmakers have boldly ventured beyond the thread and slot to reimagine the movement screw as Ryan Schmidt notes.
Time+Tide
There was a moment during the all-action Tasmanian launch of the Rado Captain Cook in high-tech ceramic that neatly summed up how this launch was different to others. It was an awkward one if I’m completely honest. Because after diving into the six-degree temperature water of a lake at Derby, in the north east of … ContinuedThe post Watch vs Wild – Epic photo essay of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic on the wrist in rugged Tasmania appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Alberta Premium Cask Strength Rye was judged "World Whisky of the Year" for 2021; however professional opinions range from “a joyous experience” to "threatening to trigger the gag reflex." Ken Gargett throws caution to the wind and shares his thoughts on this opinion-splitting Canadian rye here.
SJX Watches
Having just debuted its Coachbuild division where spare-no-expense bespoke automobiles are built, Rolls-Royce revealed the very first car to roll off the Coachbuild production line – the Boat Tail. Reportedly priced at US$25 million – and reputedly sold to Jay-Z and Beyoncé – the Boat Tail is a yacht-sized convertible with a built-in cocktail bar. Likely the most expensive car today, the US$25 million automobile is delivered with a champagne chiller, tea towels, and crystalware – and a pair of unique Bovet watches that double up as dashboard clocks. The car is painted in the clients’ favourite shade of blue Best known for its elaborate, double-sided watches, Bovet created a pair of watches for the Boat Tail’s husband-and-wife owners. The two timepieces required some 3,000 hours of work for both development and execution according to Bovet. The two timepieces are based on the Amadeo, Bovet’s signature wristwatch that can be converted into a pocket watch – or mounted on the Boat Tail’s instrument panel – a nod to the brand’s history as a leading maker of ornate pocket watches for the 19th century Chinese market. Initial thoughts Collaborations between watchmakers and luxury automobiles manufacturers are common, with Girard-Perregaux having just announced a partnership with Aston Martin and Richard Mille signing with Ferrari last year. Most are a good match in terms of position, with some exceptions like the longstanding tie-up between Breitling and ...
SJX Watches
Having debuted the first Alain Silberstein collaboration two years ago, Louis Erard is now back with a trio of watches conceived by the designer known for his Bauhaus-inspired, offbeat style – the Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein. Featuring a titanium case with unusual fixed lugs that form a frame, the watches are rendered in Mr Silberstein’s recognisable style made up of geometric shapes and primary colours. The three are essentially Mr Silberstein’s interpretation of the traditionally-styled Excellence Triptych that Louis Erard debuted last year. Available individually or in a box set accompanied by a Silberstein NFT artwork, the watches are priced affordably, starting at CHF3,500 for the time-and-date and rising to just CHF4,500 for the single-button chronograph. Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein II Initial thoughts The Alain Silberstein triptych is easy to like. The watches have a distinctive, cheery style while being accessible in price. They are simple in construction and finish – the movements, for instance, are reliable but not much to look at – but appropriate for the price and still good value. Although the design is entirely new, the case retains the character of Alain Silberstein’s original timepieces, as do the dials. That said, the shape of the hands doesn’t help legibility so it takes a while to read the time. And although La Semaine is the base model in the line up, it has the bonus feature of Mr Silberstein’s amusi...
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Revolution
Rolls-Royce collaborates with Bovet to create two unique timepieces for the coachbuilt Boat Tail’s dashboard
Revolution
Introducing the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Safari
Time+Tide
In 2019, one of the most celebrated watches by the enthusiast community was the Longines Heritage Classic sector dial. The heritage reissue trend was in full flight, with Longines being one of the brands that had ridden the wave the best, and the blend of authentic historical design cues with a relatively affordable price made … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Classic sector dial, now available with black dial on bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In conjunction with the 90th anniversary of the Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Reverso Tribute Nonantième, featuring a uniquely designed display.
SJX Watches
Digital time displays might seem like a modern invention but they have been found in watches since the early 1800s. Digital displays are found in clocks from even farther back – Lange’s trademark oversized date was inspired by the five-minute, digital clock built by Ferdinand-Adolph Lange for Dresden’s Semper opera house that opened in 1841. But the biggest advances in mechanical digital time displays – with jumping indications – all arrived soon after the turn of the millennium. And the most important are just three – the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, F.P. Journe Vagabondage III, and Harry Winston Opus 3 – and now we’re going to put them side by side. The five-minute clock that sits just above the stage in the Semperoper, showing 07:30 pm. Photo – A. Lange & Söhne An new, old idea Watches with a single digital display, namely a jumping hours, date as far back as the early 19th century. Enough of them were made that such pocket watches appear regularly at auction. But a single digital display does not a digital watch make. The watch with a jumping, double-digital time display – and hence a true digital watch – was invented in 1883 when Austrian engineer Josef Pallweber patented a mechanism that indicated the time with discs, read through two windows, one for the hours and other, the minutes. He licensed the patent to a handful of watch brands, though it is IWC that is most closely associated with the Pallweber display. At the same time, it is importa...
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Time+Tide
Sometimes in the background while I am writing, or when I am taking a quick break, I will have The Graham Norton Show clips playing in the background. Today while I was buried in my laptop, typing away, I heard The Rock during a clip say the word Rolex, and like a dog hearing the … ContinuedThe post Remembering that time The Rock punched his stuntman in the face, and gave him a Rolex to remember it by… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Aventurine
Time+Tide
Bravo Elshan! I’m happy to say I have been a (small) part of the rise of Zelos Watches, with two of their tough tools previously in my collection, the Hammerhead and Eagle. Through the sheer determination and creative drive of owner and designer Elshan Tang, Zelos Watches have enjoyed a sharp rise from their 2014 … ContinuedThe post The Zelos Mirage 2 marks a step up from microbrand to haute horology appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s all well and good catering to our tastes for vintage nostalgia and I admit that I’m usually wearing some form of field / pilot’s / diving watch of 37-40mm that conforms to that genre. But there is a feeling that we are nearing the peak of that graph. If that should happen, the Isotope … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Isotope GMT 0º is a futuristic GMT with a fascinating twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In this week's column, we will be taking a look at some cool watches that we reckon are hihgky suitable for the summer season.
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SJX Watches
Usually associated with solar-powered, high-spec professional diver’s watches, Citizen has just launched something unusual. The Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m is a higher-end dive watch powered by the automatic cal. 9051 and a case made of its proprietary, hardened titanium. Initial thoughts The new Promaster is a huge – it’s 46 mm wide – with an aggressively, slightly over-the-top-design. And for that reason it’s cool; the style and size will surely appeal to anyone who likes large dive watches. Importantly, the Promaster Mechanical Diver is automatic, which gives it a greater technical appeal for the watch enthusiast. Citizen’s dive watch offerings in recent years have either been solar or entry-level automatics (priced at between US$300-400), while the new Promaster costs about US$1,000. The price brings with its an impressively constructed case in hardened titanium, a massive bezel, and prominently domed sapphire crystal. With Citizen having a history of dive watches with even greater depth ratings, the followups to the new Promaster will be worth keeping an eye on, especially a 1,000 m diver in the same style. The case is 15.3 mm high, with almost half of that the bezel Large and light Despite the case size, the Promaster Mechanical Diver is lightweight. Both the case and bezel are Super Titanium, titanium that boasts an extra-hard surface thanks to Duratect treatment. The process takes place with the component in chamber that’s heated to several...
Time+Tide
Each year the Horological Society of New York and Phillips team up to raise money to advance the art and science of horology – offering financial aid to watchmaking institutions and full-time watchmaking students in the United States. All proceeds, including the 26% buyers premium, go towards the cause, a much needed effort to help … ContinuedThe post Highlights of the HSNY x Phillips 2021 Charity Auction include a co-branded Rolex and a watch with a NY state of mind appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Founded more than a century ago, Mido is a brand that has some serious history behind it. From producing watches for the founder of Bugatti, to making some of the earliest functional dive watches, Mido still remains under the radar of some enthusiasts. In recent years, the Le Locle-founded watchmaker has carved out a niche … ContinuedThe post 5 Mido watches to buy in the T+T Shop right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Recently we saw the return of the Baume & Mercier Riviera in the form of three configurations: the 42mm Baumatic, 42mm Automatic, and 36mm quartz. Amongst the Time+Tide team we unanimously welcomed the Riviera and lauded the line for creating a more affordable opportunity to get a quality integrated, stainless-steel sports watch. But the Riviera … ContinuedThe post The Baume & Mercier Riviera joins the green party appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
To conclude our 2021 Photo Assignment: #ShootYourWatches2, in collaboration with Casio Edifice Singapore, we present the finalists and winner!
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Revolution
Wei’s love of independent watchmaking sparked his friendships with some of the watch industry’s kindest and most genuine individuals.
Revolution
Wei Koh speaks with Laurent Picciotto, founding owner of Chronopassion in Paris, and one of the most influential personalities in contemporary watchmaking; Mo Coppoletta, a London-based aesthete renowned for his artistic tattooing; Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Product Creation Executive Director of Bvlgari on the now sold out limited edition of 10 pieces, the Octo Finissimo Tattoo Aria.
SJX Watches
One of Seiko’s pioneering dive watches, the “Tuna” ref. 6159-7010 was launched in 1975 as an automatic, titanium-case diver with the greatest depth rating Seiko could muster at the time, an impressive 600 m. And in 1986, Seiko upped its game with the 1000 m “Golden Tuna” ref. 7C46-7009/7010, a quartz watch that got its nickname from the gold-coated titanium inner case. With this year being the 35th anniversary of the “Golden Tuna” 1000 m, Seiko has announced a commemorative model that’s an essentially a dressed up version of the vintage original. The Seiko Prospex 1986 Quartz Diver’s 35th Anniversary Limited Edition retains the iconic shrouded case in titanium and ceramic and the same, exceptionally robust quartz movement found in the original. The key design feature of the anniversary model, however, is the gradient blue dial that’s dark blue on the upper half of the dial and fades downwards into black, evoking the depths of the sea. At the same time, the gilded details of the original have been reduced, leaving the gold plating for just screws that secure the shroud as well as the buckle. Initial thoughts The “Tuna” – in all its myriad variations – is an attractive, both for its distinctive style and its legit professional-diver heritage. More notable is the fact that the most basic “Tuna” starts at just a few hundred dollars – though the entry-level models are not true dive instruments – making the design relatively wallet-friendl...
Time+Tide
Despite living in Melbourne’s lockdown 4.0, it was another busy week at Time+Tide, where we took a look at a few of the watches of the rich and famous. From Drake and Travis Scott to LVMH founder Bernard Arnault, when you’ve got more money than you can ever possibly spend, what are the watches you … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Celebrity watch spotting and a watch designed by the people who’ll wear it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
While display backs and open dials are commonplace now, the Corum Golden Bridge was one of the first watches not to just reveal its mechanics but to enthusiastically and joyously celebrate them. Peter Speake, aka The Naked Watchmaker, recently deconstructed a Corum Golden Bridge Automatic to reveal all of its secrets.
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