Two Broke Watch Snobs
Glashütte, Nomos, and Buying A Watch Abroad
Firstly, I’d like to share my experience purchasing a new watch while abroad. Secondly, I want to analyze how and why one might purchase a watch while traveling.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Firstly, I’d like to share my experience purchasing a new watch while abroad. Secondly, I want to analyze how and why one might purchase a watch while traveling.
SJX Watches
Having recently redesigned its flagship perpetual calendar and minute repeater, Breguet now turns to its compact tourbillon for ladies. Moving away from Breguet’s traditional, formal style, the Classique Tourbillon 3358 is available in two variants, including the ref. 3358BB with a blue mother-of-pearl dial with diamond stars. Initial thoughts By doing away with the usual silvered guilloche dial, the new pair of tourbillons bring a new look to a familiar watch. Although the two watches are quite different from past Breguet tourbillons, they are still recognisable as Breguet thanks to elements like the pomme hands and fluted case band. The white gold ref. 3358BB is definitely the more striking of the two. The blue mother of pearl dial set with diamond stars is usually whimsical for Breguet, but nonetheless works well with the more traditional design elements. The ref. 3358 with a blue mother-of-pearl dial The Classique Tourbillon 3358 is a woman’s watch, but the design elements employed here could be transplanted into a men’s tourbillon wristwatch quite successfully, though it is not like Breguet to do something like that. Though pricier than past ladies’ tourbillons, the ref. 3358 is arguably more interesting and attractive, particularly for someone who wants something much less formal and traditional. The ref. 3358 with a diamond-set dial Stars and diamonds Already in the catalogue for several years, the ref. 3358 in its earlier incarnations looked more like ...
Worn & Wound
The affordable integrated bracelet sports watch wars have been waged on multiple fronts for many months at this point, and now, in a surprising development to some, they’ve hit the Swatch Group in a major way. Since its introduction, the Tissot PRX has been the standard bearer in the value driven integrated bracelet sports watch market, offering a huge variety of dial colors, sizes, and movement options at a price point that makes them compelling for collectors curious to try out what is undoubtedly still the hottest variety of sporty watch in the greater horological landscape. But now, a new challenger has emerged from within, with the introduction of Certina’s DS-7 Powermatic 80. Certina, at least in the United States, is frequently overlooked, as the brand doesn’t have significant distribution here, but they hold a key spot in the Swatch Group’s roster of brands on the more affordable side of the spectrum, and the new integrated offering here is an interesting and subtle contrast with the vaunted PRX. The PRX is notable for its highly angular case shape, inspired by a distinctly 1980s design language. Particularly in quartz variants, it feels decidedly retro while still giving more than a whiff of Royal Oak if you just give it a quick glance. The DS-7 as seen here is a very different animal, with a much softer and rounder case shape and bracelet integration. If the PRX conjures the 1980s, the DS-7 feels more like a 1970s throwback, particularly considering som...
Worn & Wound
Costumes, trick-or-treating, jack-o-lanterns, scary movies; October brings a whole host of traditions. And nobody did the latter better-or lent his name to a seasonal pun more easily-than Alfred Hitchcock, whom cinephiles everywhere venerate this month with “Hitchcocktober” marathons of the great director’s oeuvre. Movie buffs look for Alfred Hitchcock’s requisite cameo in his films, but there are rarer cameos for watch fans to keep an eye out for as well. Hitchcock’s films are timeless and, unexpectedly, mostly timepiece-less. Possibly the most famous Hitchcock watch-spot: Jimmy Stewart’s Tissot in Rear Window Hitchcock earned his reputation as the Master of Suspense over a 54-year directorial career that saw Hitchcock create classics like Rebecca (1940), Vertigo (1958), Psycho (1960), and The Birds (1963). His films are rife with plot twists and mistaken identity, playful avoidance of censors, and some of the most creative, and unnerving, visuals ever put to film. Hitchcock was the man who thought up a crop duster chase scene and a shower stabbing and a dozen other iconic scenes that have become among the most famous in film history. The British director was workmanlike in bringing his vision to life on screen. Hitchcock once remarked that he believed “actors should be treated like cattle.” Watches get similar treatment in his film-when they do appear they are never window dressing, they’re predominantly used to, well, tell time. Take, for example...
SJX Watches
The collaboration between Bucherer and H. Moser & Cie. has given birth to a trio of timepieces: the Pioneer Tourbillon Concept Aventurine and two different takes on the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Aventurine. Bucherer, a renowned Swiss retailer with a global presence that was recently acquired by Rolex, has made blue dials a signature feature of its collaborations. While most Bucherer exclusives sport blue-finish metal dials, this trio have dials of aventurine glass, otherwise known as goldstone. It’s essentially glass with metallic inclusions that give it a speckled, sparkly appearance that evokes the night sky. Initial thoughts The combination of red gold and deep blue dials neatly aligns with both Bucherer’s and Moser’s respective aesthetics. This collaboration continues the retailer’s tradition of unique, blue-themed exclusives that are a variants of familiar models. It is worth noting the three timepieces are derived from models in Moser’s existing product range, including the aventurine dials. Furthermore, the movements, namely the HMC 904 with repeater and the HMC 804 tourbillon, remain unchanged. While this reflects the collaborative effort between Bucherer and Moser, it raises the question of whether even greater imaginative potential could have been explored by both entities. That said, the aventurine dials are appealing, though they come at a price. For instance, the Pioneer Tourbillon Concept Aventurine costs US$71,500, compared t...
Revolution
Having previously encountered the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor series when it was first introduced in 2021, Wei proceeded to collaborate with Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, to craft a unique rendition, giving birth to the exclusive Parmigiani Fleurier × Revolution & The Rake Tonda PF Micro-Rotor “Serenissima” limited to just 25 pieces which were sold […]
Time+Tide
Microbrands didn’t just come about because Kickstarter made fundraising accessible and non-European manufacturing improved in quality – they were also a product of necessity. As luxury watch prices went up and collectors craved unique looks, microbrands were there to fill the hole. Now there are hundreds of them, but UniDesign Watch Co. is one of … ContinuedThe post The UniDesign Model One shows what microbrands are for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
As collectors and enthusiasts, we know the world of wristwatches reaches far beyond the watches themselves. In fact, accessorizing is one of the best ways to expand and deepen our appreciation for what we have. One of the most fun (and important) considerations is how we store and keep our watches. When traveling, consider a right-sized watch roll that fits the right amount while keeping them secure and protected on the go. At home, a solid roll, box, or case can provide a safe and elegant storage solution. Whatever your need is, we’ve got it all in the Windup Watch Shop; read on to find out. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points towards rewards with every purchase. As collectors and enthusiasts, we know the world of wristwatches reaches far beyond the watches themselves. In fact, accessorizing is one of the best ways to expand and deepen our appreciation for what we have. One of the most fun (and important) considerations is how we store and keep our watches. When traveling, consider a right-sized watch roll that fits the right amount while keeping them secure and protected on the go. At home, a solid roll, box, or case can provide a safe and elegant storage solution. Whatever your need is, we’ve got it all in the Windup Watch Shop; read on to find out. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points towards rewards with every purchase. The post Watch Storage Solutions From the Win...
Worn & Wound
Welcome to a special episode of A Week In Watches filmed live on the floor of our Windup Watch Fair New York. This episode features first hand looks at some of the new watches released at or around the fair with commentary from the people behind them. This year’s fair was our biggest ever, so unfortunately we weren’t able to get to all the new watches, but we pulled aside a handful of the most interesting watches caught our eye during the fair. This includes watches from Laco, Baltic, Isotope and more, along with some of the EDC brands that showed up this year. There was no shortage of exciting watches to check out, and as always, some incredible watch spotting in the crowd of enthusiasts that showed up. We’ll in-depth reviews and hands-on reaction from much more of the watches we saw at this year’s fair, including the exciting Isotope chronograph, the Baltic Hermetique, and the Laco DIN 8330, each of which feature in this video. Keep an eye out for the new watches that released outside of the fair this week, such as the exotic new Omega PO and ultra-light Ming, in our next episode, until then catch our live look at the Windup Watch Fair NYC 2023 below. Thanks to our lead sponsors: Oris, Christopher Ward, Zodiac, G-Shock, and Citizen for making such a great impression upon first walking into the fair! The post A Week In Watches: Ep. 66 – Windup Watch Fair NYC Special appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The effects of the coronavirus pandemic were obviously widespread, but the wristwatch industry didn’t suffer nearly as much as was predicted. Some companies even managed to do better in lockdown, as watch enthusiasts had nothing else to do but browse online and shop. There was a cultural shift certainly, but that also led to a … ContinuedThe post Which watch trends survived the pandemic? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Our Best in Show top picks from the recent Spring Sprang Sprung show in Singapore - a showcase of micro-independent brands.
Deployant
The Tissot Sideral S is yet another win for Tissot. It is a refreshing addition to the dominant PRX line, and the more predictable heritage line of classic 3 hands and 'large' Valjoux chronographs. The tonneau case itself is quite fun to see in Tissot's product mix of non-circle cases, and even better with forged carbon. The watch is a good size and highly wearable, lightweight compared to any steel, steel bracelet watches, and 300m water resistant for the occasional swimmers. For those who want something less colorful, a regular black strap or black OEM rubber strap will make the watch much more stealthy. The forged carbon is matte finished, and not as contrasting unless under bright sunlight. The colorful lume is also mostly muted. At least for the red version with the grey ring, the watch can be very muted when not on the red strap, which is the primary reason why I chose the red model. The watches are priced at US$995 before tax.
Quill & Pad
At Baselworld 2019, when the curtains were finally opened at the Tudor booth, a watch that had widely been considered a myth by many was revealed to be 100 percent real! The Tudor Black Bay P01 has now arrived.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Meg Tocci (@minutemeg on Instagram) brings us a well balanced collection hitting on a variety of enthusiast favorites – and all with blue dials, a constraint Meg chose to challenge herself to stick to with these picks. This collection has bronze, an integrated bracelet sports watch, and a bezel that will help you leave an appropriate tip. Between these three watches, you’ve got virtually any situation covered, even if you can’t use a slide-rule. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. If your watchbox is getting a little unwieldy and you’d like to pare down, the three watch collection seems to offer a solution. It frees you from the burden of becoming a One Watch Person (who needs that pressure?) while providing reasonable constraints to shield you from the black hole of price drop alerts and the illusory refrain of “just one more.” It leaves the collector with enough space to make choices without feeling restricted by them. With countless combinations, I knew this project required a strategy. While I considered dropping significant dough on one heavy-hitter and two inexpensive options, I wanted to challenge myself to stretch those dollars as far as I could, with all three choices weighing in above the $1,000 price point. I knew I wanted to prioritize real-life applicability by picking options for both work and leisure. Whee...
Worn & Wound
If you’ve listened to the podcast, follow me on Instagram, read what I write here on the website, or even have just had a five minute conversation with me about something innocuous, like who makes the best fast food cheeseburger, there’s a good chance you already know that I’ve kind of become obsessed with Hublot. I try not to waste an opportunity to be sure people know that to overlook this brand on the basis of their perception in the larger watch community is to be, frankly, a snob. I don’t much care for snobs, or gatekeeping, or for not looking beyond the surface of a particular watch or brand, so the widespread Hublot-hate that cuts across the watch community is a continued annoyance. Because the thing is, Hublot is very good at doing what they set out to do, and judging them on the merits of fulfilling their intention seems like the only fair way to evaluate them, or any brand for that matter. Hublot, as it exists today, is essentially a brand full of statement pieces, but made with intention and a real focus on materials. The common gripes that they’re gaudy, or over-the-top, or even overpriced miss the point entirely. They are exactly what they are supposed to be. For a watch to be “gaudy” it would have to be so unintentionally, and as far as I’m concerned, a watch that’s over-the-top should wear that attribute as a strength. As much I like and admire Hublot for being a weird mix between class clown, Rebel Without a Cause, and, I don’t know,...
Hodinkee
And arrives with several of Hermès' most unique and innovative timepieces in tow.
Time+Tide
While it's not something that looks like it came from 1947, AVI-8's homage to Chuck Yeager and Glamorous Glennis is full of neat touches.The post AVI-8’s Bell X-1 Glamorous Glennis honours the first supersonic plane appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
It’s no stretch of the imagination to think that there is a large crossover between motorsports and horology. In fact, some of the most well-known drivers have become synonymous with the brands they rep both on their wrists and plastered across their car. It makes sense, then, that TAG Heuer would look back to their motoring history to help celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Carrera collection. Going back a few decades, we can in part acknowledge Jack Heuer as one of the reasons watches and cars have become paired in our collective minds. During the Golden Age of motoracing, Heuer introduced the concept of gifting gold watches to racing stars. It was here that solidified TAG Heuer as a brand that wasn’t just respectable – but covetable. It’s this bit of Heuer history which has become the inspiration behind this new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph. Coming in at 39mm in an 18-karat gold case, the watch itself is a timeless piece of art which sits somewhere between its sporty heritage and its luxury namesake. The small details of this watch show the thoughtful design to really honor the heritage of this collection: from the integrated chronograph pushers to the black subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock which are a nod to past expressions of the iconic reverse panda configuration. Most intriguing of all is the Glassbox design of the case itself, a flourish brought to the collection this year to celebrate the Carrera’s 60th anniversary. With an ultra-ergonomic design, the ...
Deployant
The NOMOS Glashütte Metropolitan 33 is a beautiful watch that comes in three variations: silver, muted red, and sage. The watch has a diameter of 33mm and a thickness of 7.5mm, making it a perfect fit for both men and women. The watch is water-resistant up to 5 ATM (50 meters)
SJX Watches
Having already one of the smartest perpetual calendars on the market, H. Moser & Cie. adds another calendar to its repertoire with the Endeavour Chinese Calendar. Sporting a double retrograde display, the new watch displays the traditional Chinese calendar, a lunisolar calendar that operates on the motions of the Sun and Moon, along with the Chinese zodiac. Unlike past watches with a Chinese calendar, the new Endeavour has a clean, modern aesthetic. Initial thoughts The Endeavour Chinese Calendar isn’t the first wristwatch to incorporate a traditional Chinese calendar, though it has the most concise display and is probably the easiest to understand. Past watches with Chinese calendars from the likes of Blancpain were traditional displays of the traditional Chinese calendar with as many Chinese characters as possible, resulting in busy dials. Moser, on the other hand, opted for minimalism with retrograde scales and Arabic numerals for the calendars. The only downside of the calendar display is its size; the tiny numerals mean a magnifier is probably necessary. In short, the Endeavour Chinese Calendar is a smart take on the traditional Chinese calendar, but one that could do with larger numerals. A lunisolar calendar Now mostly used for ceremonial purposes like public holidays and determine auspicious dates, the traditional Chinese calendar is a lunisolar calendar that depends on the Moon and Sun. A month for instance is the time between two new moons, with either 29 or 3...
Time+Tide
As one of our favourite collaborations to date, we look back at the stories of the Night Surfer.The post Celebrating the second anniversary of our Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton Night Surfer Time+Tide Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
What makes the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph so pleasing is that it offers everything we have come to expect from the Aquaracer collection and more. It comes in a stainless steel case with matte black DLC coating and some extra-special lume to illustrate its sun-loving movement.
Worn & Wound
A Lange & Söhne opened the doors of their latest boutique in New York City’s upper east side this week with the help of CEO Wilhelm Schmid, and a new Zeitwerk Minute Repeater rendered in Honeygold was presented to mark the occasion. That might be the poshest sentence ever to be written on this website, but don’t let that turn you away just yet, there’s an impeccably interesting watch underneath the glitz here. The Zeitwerk takes a unique approach to displaying the time, and it’s no different when a chiming complication is added to the mix. There is no hour and minute hand here, and there’s also no slide mechanism along the side of the case. It is an entirely over the top example of the kind of creative engineering the brand is capable of set into a material that is nearly as difficult to explain. The new boutique finds itself in New York’s lovely upper east side, on Madison ave at 63rd street, directly across from the Hermès boutique. The cozy space is accented with plenty of Lange ephemera, including a monolithic installment of a Saxonia Triple Split chronograph, which includes an oversized hyper accurate recreation of the movement around back. What I personally found the most compelling, however, was the display on the south wall, which was composed of small numbered boxes, each depicting a single piece of the 684 total pieces that comprise the Tourbograph Perpetual Pour Le Merite movement. It takes up an entire wall, and imagining them all placed within ...
Hodinkee
Inside the world of Porsche, the brand's family ties to watchmaking, and the community that brings it all together.
SJX Watches
Well before A. Lange & Söhne debuted the entirely classical Richard Lange Minute Repeater a year ago, the brand’s flagship striking watch was a Zeitwerk. Available in white gold or platinum before, the digital chiming watch now returns in a warmer metal as the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater Honeygold. While remaining the same mechanically, the new repeater strikes a different tone according to the brand because of the case metal, a gold alloy slightly harder than conventional gold that is exclusive to Lange. Initial thoughts The new Zeitwerk repeater is more appealing than its predecessors in my eyes just because I like the gold-and-grey combination. The platinum model was monochromatic while the blue dial on the white gold model felt too modern for the watch. The movement remains exactly the same as before, which means it’s the same impressively complicated calibre that has the usual Zeitwerk features like a constant force mechanism, as well as the added complexity of an unusually constructed minute repeater with various safety mechanisms catered to the digital display. But one aspect of the new repeater is interesting, and that’s the case metal. I’ve yet to hear the watch in person, but Lange’s product development head, Anthony de Haas, is quoted as saying the new repeater “in honey gold… sounds different to all other materials ‒ truly distinctive.” Given the significant increase in hardness of honey gold relative to ordinary 18k gold, that sounds credible. ...
Deployant
Greubel Forsey unveils their 8th invention - the Tourbillon Cardan has three separate rotating and tilting platforms to make a very complicated watch.
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe has no meaningful history of pilot’s watches, so the 2015 advent of the Calatrava Pilot collection was both an exercise in grasping at straws and a flight of fancy. The Pilot Annual Calendar Travel Time 5326G breaks new ground in design while offering enough features to justify itself
Worn & Wound
Windup NYC is a wrap, and the festivities saw the debut of many new watches from a huge variety of brands. Oak & Oscar is a Windup mainstay and a core part of the microbrand space (a term which admittedly seems less and less adequate as the years go by and these shows get bigger and bigger, but that’s a topic for another day), and they took the opportunity to debut a new flavor of an old favorite over the weekend, the Humboldt GMT in titanium. It’s immediately recognizable as an Oak & Oscar and will slot nicely into their existing catalog, but offers a handful of new details and innovations that show the Chicago based brand is still interested in moving forward and expanding the idea of what an Oak & Oscar watch should be. The big news here is the titanium case. The Humboldt GMT in titanium is made from the grade 5 variety, and comes in at a weight of just 74 grams when mounted on a leather strap. It comes in at 39.5mm (with a bezel overhang of 0.5mm) and is 46.8mm from lug to lug. According to the brand, it’s 20% lighter than the original Humboldt GMT in stainless steel, which equates to a difference you’ll really notice on the wrist. It immediately makes the watch sportier based on ease of wear alone. For the dial, we get a dark green shade, which is the same tone used on the green Olmsted. Like many other Oak & Oscar watches, this one has a sandwich dial construction, which allows for tons of contrast via lume that is present under the main dial layer. There...
Hodinkee
Complete with quintessential Basquiat motifs and references, Raymond Weil finds its latest inspiration for its signature Freelancer Chronograph in one of the most enigmatic artists of the 20th century.
SJX Watches
The Carrera line takes a luxurious turn with a new chronograph sporting a yellow gold case and matching yellow gold-plated dial, complemented by contrasting matte black sub-dials. The Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” pays homage to a similar creation from the 1960s, the Carrera ref. 1158 CHN, which is known among collectors for its bold, all-gold design. Initial thoughts A precious metal sports watch often sparks debate about the relevance of the case material, particularly for brands not typically associated with pure luxury. However, TAG Heuer’s decision to execute its new Glassbox in the memorable “John Player Special” colour scheme of gold and black inspired by the ref. 1158 CHN is commendable. Moreover, it is a logical next step for TAG Heuer following the recent unveiling of the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, which is also available in rose gold. This fusion of heritage and refinement brings a unique and distinguished touch to the ordinarily functional Carrera. The result is an appealing chronograph with a hint of vintage luxury that effectively showcases the distinctive Glassbox case. The price tag for the gold Carrera is comparable to that of the rose gold Chronosprint x Porsche, which means the price is expected and appropriate though not quite a bargain. However, the Chronosprint boasts a more complex movement, making it a better value proposition – though the new Carrera is certainly more appealing in terms of design. The legendary gold Carrera 11...
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