Buying, Selling, & Collecting: Understanding The New Middle Class Of Watchmaking
A lot has changed for the watch world's mid-grade makers, but there are plenty of reasons to be excited about the future.
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A lot has changed for the watch world's mid-grade makers, but there are plenty of reasons to be excited about the future.
Hodinkee
There's a reason the El Primero movement is so good, and this watch proves that it's still getting better.
Time+Tide
Off the top of your head, what’s your mental picture of a Rolex owner? Some cigar-chomping big-shot in an oak-panelled office? A thrusting young professional who delights in his watch as a conspicuous status-signifier? Or simply a lover of fine watches who appreciates the formidable consistency and build quality of the Crown? The reason I … ContinuedThe post This is the identity of the average Rolex owner (they’re not who you might expect)ww appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Technically, people, it's called the Hôtel de Horlogers. Either way, feel free to scatter my ashes here when I am gone.
Deployant
Longines reimagines their Evidenza, a collection which has stood the test of time in its iconic tonneau shaped case, with multiple dial colour options.
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Time+Tide
A common argument against mechanical watches is that they don’t actually have much practical function in a 21st century society. The time can be read with atomic accuracy on a smartphone, and professional divers will almost always choose a modern dive computer over an analogue watch when their life is on the line. The Ball … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Rescue Chronograph in Ice Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“I’m off fishing next week.” “Right I’ll overnight it to you.” Timing is everything, and this holds especially true in the horological world. Mike Blythe, founder of Draken Watches, had just received the first of his updated Kruger model, the Kruger SE, set for release on September 1, and there was a story that needed … ContinuedThe post Trout fishing in New Zealand with the Draken Kruger SE appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Spanning the gamut from a wall clock to an elegant dress watch – this week's Vintage collection delivers.
SJX Watches
As Cortina Watch celebrates its Golden Jubilee this year, it has progressively rolled out a series of commemorative editions, including a pair from Patek Philippe in the form of a unique Dome Clock (that’s unfortunately not for sale) and a special Calatrava ref. 5057G (that fortunately is). Now the Singapore retailer has taken the covers off its most extravagant anniversary edition yet, the Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary. The anniversary lineup is made up of five unique versions of Franck Muller’s triple-axis tourbillon wristwatch, each set with 28.4 carats of baguette-cut gemstones. One of the five watches is complete – the others are still being put together – and is on display at an exhibition in Singapore taking place from now till September 13, 2022. The diamond-set version with a rainbow-finished movement that’s now on show in Singapore Initial thoughts Franck Muller is one of the leading practitioners of lavishly-jewelled complicated watches, while Cortina Watch has long been a champion of high-jewellery watches, so the anniversary Vanguard tourbillons make sense both ways. While the large-format bling has a niche appeal, the Vanguard Revolution 3 movement is interesting in itself. In fact, the movement is quintessentially Franck Muller in how it highlights the tourbillon. Here the tourbillon regulator is less about mechanics than visual spectacle. Not only does the tourbillon twi-axial and spherical, it also ...
Quill & Pad
The 2022 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has just published its list of shortlisted (“nominated”) watches in the runup to the eagerly anticipated red-carpet event in Geneva on November 10, 2022. Ian Skellern shares all of the finalist watches in each category here. Let us know your favorites!
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Deployant
Dual time zone watches are certainly one of the accessories for the frequent travellers. Here, we are looking at six timepieces that will do the job.
Time+Tide
Norqain has become one of those brands that is synonymous with adventure. From tackling the great outdoors to becoming at one with mother nature. Yet, as other brands interpret adventure differently for men and ladies (often creating a dumbed down version of a more adequate watch), Norqain breaks the mold. They continue to highlight what … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Norqain impresses with the new Adventure Sport 37mm Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The laser-etched sapphire dial means a light show like you've never seen before.
Time+Tide
Luxury watches sold by fashion brands will always be fighting an uphill battle to be taken seriously by elitist watch enthusiasts, but after two decades the Louis Vuitton Tambour range has definitely made more than enough compelling arguments for its legitimacy. Between the Tambour Spin Time, the Spin Time Air Quantum, and the artisanal-focused Tambour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty celebrates two decades of banging the drum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A newly independent watch brand gets in on the multicolored-gem trend.
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Deployant
Patek Philippe introduces its first ever wristwatch combining the annual calendar and travel time complications, the Ref. 5326G.
Time+Tide
You know that thought experiment you do at night when you’re trying to get to sleep? The one where you’re trying to design a hybrid watch with all your favourite details – not too big, not too heavy, no date window, not too extortionately priced, decent water resistance and so on and so forth? Well, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: We have the new Tudor Pelagos 39 in our hand! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Baume & Mercier is a watch brand that prides itself in its pursuit of classical watchmaking mixed with timelessly elegant style and in offering its timepieces at a price point that defines "affordable luxury." If you're new to Baume & Mercier watches, there's likely a lot about this nearly two-century-old watchmaker that you don't know. Here we explore the history and watchmaking milestones of Baume & Mercier, from its origins in 1830 to today. 1830: The Brothers Baume Baume & Mercier is the sixth-oldest watchmaker* currently in operation, having begun its existence in 1830, founded by Louis-Victor Baume and his brother Pierre-Joseph Celestine Baume. In the beginning, the company, at the time known as “Frères Baume" (“Baume Brothers”), sold its pocket watches out of a shop in the Swiss Jura village of Les Bois. By the 1850s, Frères Baume had built its business, and its reputation for quality watchmaking, enough to set up a branch in London, a major market and an important center for international expansion - first throughout the United Kingdom, then into India, Australia, New Zealand, Singapore, and other nations that at the time were part of the British Empire. The watches the Baume brothers produced toward the end of the 19th Century included high complications like chronographs, calendars, tourbillons, and minute repeaters. They were also renowned for their precision and accuracy, winning 10 Grand Prix awards and seven gold medals for time measurement ...
Hodinkee
Here's everything you need to know about the next-gen French watchmaker.
Hodinkee
A smaller size for the brand's ever-gorgeous QP.
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SJX Watches
Traditionally all about vintage-inspired, “Marina Militare” dive watches, Panerai has recently been rolling out complications with a minimalist, contemporary execution, such as the recent Luminor pepertual calendar. Sharing a similar aesthetic perhaps more practical – and certainly more affordable – is the new Luminor BiTempo PAM 1360 and PAM 1361, a GMT wristwatch with striking baby-blue accents on a blue or black dial. The PAM 1361 with a radially-brushed blue dial Initial thoughts Given its large diameter and clean dial, the Luminor accommodates complications well while still maintaining its characteristic minimalist style – if the additions are integrated properly. Panerai managed that with the BiTempo, which manages to incorporate a date, second time zone, and power reserve indicator without hindering the recognisable Panerai aesthetic. In fact, the BiTempo could pass for a time-only Luminor from across a room. That said, the second time zone isn’t a new complication for the brand – the movement is an existing calibre – so the novelty is mainly in the facelift that changes dial details like the enlarged date display and blue accents. While I appreciate that the baby blue indicators are legible, I find the colour overly pastel for the low-key, military-inspired styling. Legible both day and night Twin time zones The BiTempo has a 44 mm Luminor 1950 case with its trademark crown guard. The “sandwich” dial has the signature Luminor layout with ov...
Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet has a case of the high-complication blues.
A classic take on classic watchmaking enters the 21st century.
SJX Watches
In a perhaps unsurprising but very much a welcome move, Tudor has just taken the covers off the Pelagos 39, a scaled-down and slightly dressed up version of its “professional” diver’s watch. Rated to 200 m and just 11.8 mm tall, the Pelagos 39 is essentially a condensed version of its bigger brother. Initial thoughts No doubt in response to feedback, Tudor has been steadily trimming the sizes of its key models. The brand has preserved the key technical features of the watches while reducing the case diameter, dialling back on the chunkiness of its first-generation models. The Black Bay Pro was a smaller GMT and a few months later the Pelagos 39 arrives as the smaller “pro” diver. Besides the smaller diameter, the new Pelagos is also thinner, so it will no doubt be more easily wearable on an everyday basis than its 42 mm counterpart. Wearability aside, the Pelagos 39 is evidently caters to enthusiasts in other ways. It has a symmetrical dial with no date display, while the text above six include a single line in red. It’s difficult not to like the Pelagos 39. The Pelagos 39 also has subtle changes to the dial and bezel finish that differentiate it from the larger models. The brushed finish on those components give it a little bit more shine, avoiding the muted, functional appearance of the earlier Pelagos watches. As is typical for Tudor, the Pelagos 39 is priced at just US$4,400. Considering its build quality and movement, that ranks it amongst the best in cla...
Time+Tide
Finally! Look, I have always felt the Pelagos is one of the strongest dive watches on the market. But, afflicted with slender wrist syndrome, the size, while it could work for my wrist, was not optimal. While many enjoy the original 42mm Pelagos, and for good reason, others have shared my sentiment – the people … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Tudor gives the people what they want with new 39mm Pelagos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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