Deployant
Review: new entry level watch – Formex Essence 39 Automatic Chronometer “Space Gold”
We spent a couple of weeks with the Formex Essence 39 Automatic Chronometer "Space Gold", and we pen down our thoughts on this timepiece.
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Deployant
Fratello
Hands-On With The Ollech & Wajs OW M-52B AF
The legendary B-52 bomber celebrates the 70th anniversary of its production model’s maiden flight in 2024. Ollech & Wajs has released the OW M-52B AF to honor this incredible airplane and those who have contributed to its incredibly long lifespan. As someone deeply interested in this machine, I requested a sample piece for a hands-on […] Visit Hands-On With The Ollech & Wajs OW M-52B AF to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Avant-Garde Art Takes to the Raketa Dial
Inspired by Russian avant-garde art of the early 20th century, Raketa’s collection of the same name reproduces the graphic, geometric style on watch dials. The Raketa Avant-Garde 0292 is starkly and characterised by bold shapes. And unlike its predecessors, the new Avant-Garde does away with hour markers, which detracts from legibility but makes it all the more striking. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Avant-Garde appears abstract but is actually entirely conventional with three hands on a central axis. While readability is mixed at best, the dial has presence. The boldly graphic dial instantly evokes the art that inspired it, though it is not a like-for-like reproduction. Of all the art-inspired Raketa watches to date, this is the most interesting. Priced at €1,625, the new Avant-Garde sits at the higher end of the range for watches of this segment; comparable watches would be those equipped with Miyota calibres. However, the Avant-Garde has the advantage of striking, original aesthetics that are coherent with the brand and its history. Most “artistic” watches in this price segment tend to have less coherent artistic sensibilities. Granted, the fact that the dial is inspired by Russian art may be a turn-off for some, but the watch in itself is an appealing one. Initial thoughts The Avant-Garde 0292 is modelled on Beat the Whites with the Red Wedge, a Bolshevik propaganda poster created during the Russian Civil War by El Lissitzky, a leading artist of the R...
Fratello
Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 - Has Panerai Seen The Light?
Forget, if you can, about the 38mm Luminor Due Luna with its mother-of-pearl dial. Instead, focus on the 49mm Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID. Is this massive PAM01800 with a case, case back, and bezel in blue Ti-Ceramitech the watch that will relight the fire in the hearts of a dormant group of Paneristi? It seems […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 - Has Panerai Seen The Light? to read the full article.
Fratello
Splitting The Anatom - Hands-On With The New Rado Anatom Automatic And Its Vintage Predecessor
Just over four decades after its debut, the Rado Anatom is back. It’s bigger than ever with a mechanical movement instead of a quartz one, a bezel and crown in black high-tech ceramic, and a middle case in black PVD-treated steel instead of traditional steel. The new Anatom also shows an impressive edge-to-edge sapphire crystal […] Visit Splitting The Anatom - Hands-On With The New Rado Anatom Automatic And Its Vintage Predecessor to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hands-On Video Review: The Forstner A-12
Check out our hands-on video review of the Forstner-A12, an affordable watch that pays homage to the Bulova Accutron Astronaut.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Why Everyone Loves Seiko Watches
Hello there, and welcome to another episode of Fratello Talks. This week, Thomas, Lex, and Nacho discuss Seiko watches. A Seiko is a staple of most watch enthusiasts’ collections, whether it’s a first-ever mechanical watch or an inexpensive curiosity, a vintage rarity in museum-worthy condition, or anything in between. And though there will certainly be […] Visit Fratello Talks: Why Everyone Loves Seiko Watches to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Conquest 38mm Review
Longines has just revamped its Conquest line of watches – the modern Conquest line – by injecting into it a new sense of color, and a not-so-novel, but nonetheless appreciated, approach to sizing. When it comes to color, the brand unveiled three pastel dial shades in its 34mm variants within the Conquest lineup. But other big news is the addition of a 38mm sizing where previously you were left only to be able to choose 41mm at the “large” end of the spectrum. While the eye-catching pastel dials in blue, pink, and light green certainly took much of the release spotlight around the new Conquests, they only come in 34mm sizing and I can’t help but think that the less flashy dials in the new 38mm format is the real show-stealer here. We say this all the time, but it’s becoming increasingly clear that 38mm is that sweet spot for watch diameters. More and more brands are dabbling in the 37-38mm range as well. I wrote about the Zenith Defy Revival A3648 (in my debut article here at Teddy no less) which clocks in at 37mm. Then we have the Tudor Black Bay 54, and of course the fan-favorite Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38 just to name a few. In short, 38mm is where it’s at, as is the simple time and date watch format in steel on a bracelet. Just look at how popular the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line is as a bare bones steel sports watch. Okay, that watch has no date, but it does bear a visual resemblance to these new Conquest models. I could just as easily throw the Dat...
Worn & Wound
How An Altimeter Works And Why We Think They’re Cool
An altimeter is a device used to measure the altitude of an object or a person above a particular fixed level, usually sea level. There are various types of altimeters, including pressure, sonic, radar, laser, and GPS. In this instance, we will be focusing on the kind that uses atmospheric pressure to make measurements, as these are commonly found in aircraft and used by skydivers, hikers, and mountain climbers. The technology is relatively straightforward: the higher the altitude, the lower the atmospheric pressure. An altimeter is a device used to measure the altitude of an object or a person above a particular fixed level, usually sea level. There are various types of altimeters, including pressure, sonic, radar, laser, and GPS. In this instance, we will be focusing on the kind that uses atmospheric pressure to make measurements, as these are commonly found in aircraft and used by skydivers, hikers, and mountain climbers. The technology is relatively straightforward: the higher the altitude, the lower the atmospheric pressure. The post How An Altimeter Works And Why We Think They’re Cool appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Our Favorite EDC Gear
Recently, we got the Worn & Wound team in front of the camera to talk about their favorite piece of EDC gear. The responses run the gamut, as you’d expect. From notebooks and pens, to flashlights and water bottles, the things we carry with us day to day help us get through work, life, and everything else. Unsurprisingly, more than one member of the team cited a simple notebook and pen combination as core to their everyday carry – there’s still no better way to track your ideas, and you always get to be the hero when someone inevitably asks “Anyone have a pen?” But there are some unexpected choices as well, including a water bottle favored by the two members of the Worn & Wound crew, a particularly durable wallet, and a classic pair of sunglasses. What’s your favorite piece of EDC gear? Let us know in the comments what you can’t leave home without. The post [VIDEO] Our Favorite EDC Gear appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique is simple and shtick-free
Bright orange or brushed blue, the Skindiver Nautique tones down the quirks of Vulcain watches of old.The post The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique is simple and shtick-free appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Mr Jones Watches The Golden Hour
The English independent watch brand Mr Jones Watches has released a new watch with an animated dial to celebrate the beauty of English Gardens.
Fratello
Christopher Ward Introduces The C60 Pro 300 Bronze Blue Ombré
It’s been a little less than two years since Christopher Ward introduced the C60 Trident Pro 300 series. From the moment it debuted, the line became a success with the brand’s fans. A year after the introduction, Christopher Ward released the first bronze version of the C60 Trident Pro 300. Another year on, a second […] Visit Christopher Ward Introduces The C60 Pro 300 Bronze Blue Ombré to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Code 41 UNIFY Calls For Tolerance, Equality and Diversity.
Since founding Code41 in 2016, Lausanne-based designer Claudio D’Amore has set his brand apart through transparency, community engagement, and fair pricing. From a product perspective, Code41 has developed a unique portfolio of watches with distinct aesthetics, sporty vibes, and often featuring openworked dials. The brand’s latest collection, UNIFY, is somewhat more approachable and consensual. However, […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Gerald Charles Maestro 9.0 Roman Tourbillon with a Hand-Hammered Gold Dial
Gérald Charles Genta, one of our time’s most respected and well-known watch designers, sold his eponymous brand Gerald Genta to Bulgari in 2000. However, instead of resting on his laurels and enjoying a stress-free retirement, he created a new brand, naming it – again – after himself; Gerald Charles. In 2003, Genta sold the company […]
Fratello
Omega Introduces The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Inspired By Armand “Mondo” Duplantis
The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M is perhaps Omega’s strongest contender for everyday luxury. In the realm once dominated by the Rolex OP, the Aqua Terra has become a go-to daily watch for the right reasons and can be quite the style chameleon. This time, the inspiration of Armand “Mondo” Deplantis and the Swedish national colors […] Visit Omega Introduces The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Inspired By Armand “Mondo” Duplantis to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The MB&F; LM Perpetual and Stephen McDonnell’s Innovation
When it comes to perpetual calendars – perhaps the most objectively useful complication – the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual, or LM QP for short, sits neatly between classical architecture and iconoclastic construction. Now almost a decade old having been launched in 2015, the LM QP is a mechanical marvel coming from the mind of Stephen McDonnell. The LM QP’s beauty lies in Mr McDonnell’s rethinking of the perpetual calendar complication while integrating historical concepts. Rethinking the QP A perpetual calendar, or quantième perpétuel (hence “QP”), is a complex and layered mechanism, which makes it a challenging complication to implement in watches. Naturally, not all perpetual calendars are created equal, some being more innovative and others more classical in their construction. The first-ever serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatch, the Patek Philippe ref. 1526 that debuted in 1940; the basics of the perpetual calendar mechanism would remain largely unchanged for decades after The issue with classical calendar constructions is their vulnerability to wear and tear, shock, or careless operation by the user. Ironically, the most forward-thinking of perpetual calendar mechanisms try to solve these problems, but sometimes suffer from reliability issues rooted in the radical concepts employed. Mr McDonnell’s construction of the LM QP smartly manages to eliminate traditional weaknesses while avoiding new problems. The result is a reliable and innovati...
Fratello
Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Lex’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Frederique Constant, And Breitling
No pre-owned shortcuts, just brand-new watches; that was my mantra when putting together my edition of The Best Watches Under €5,000. Rolex and Omega are out of reach, Tudor is on nearly every Fratello team member’s list, and the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT didn’t cut it either - it might be a chronometer, […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Lex’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Frederique Constant, And Breitling to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Parmigiani Debuts the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm Sunlit Ivory SHH Edition
Parmigiani Fleurier has just launched the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm ‘Sunlit Ivory’ SHH Edition, a limited edition for Singapore retailer Sincere Fine Watches. More compact than the rest of the collection that ranges from 40 mm to 42 mm, its svelte dimensions are an answer to collectors’ calls for smaller watches, which is a positive development from both an ergonomic and aesthetic standpoint. Limited to 50 pieces, the watch will be available exclusively at Sincere Fine Watches and SHH boutiques across Southeast Asia. Initial thoughts Let’s get this out of the way: this is an integrated-bracelet luxury sport watch. But the Tonda PF, and this SHH edition specifically, is a thoughtfully conceived watch that deserves a second look despite the numerous offerings in this segment. Its appeal primarily comes down to the size and execution, which differentiates this from its peers. The sizing, in particular, is just about perfect. While 36 mm may sound small, the visual size is enlarged by the large dial opening, narrow bezel, and the integrated bracelet, giving it presence without bulk. Furthermore, the 8.6 mm case is thin enough to slip under a shirt cuff, but substantial enough to not feel dainty. There are also a number of well-considered details, such as the guilloché dial, platinum bezel, and no-date format, which plant the Tonda PF Sunlit Ivory firmly on the dressy end of the luxury sport watch spectrum. But the Tonda PF is still sporty – featuring a 4 Hz movement, ...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Beaufort Pulsatimer
So far 2024 is a year where brands have been belting out bombastic bangers of watches one after another. So, when a different take on a beloved complication is dropped, we naturally crane our necks to peek at what’s new. The first Swiss chronograph in New Zealand based Beaufort’s lineup highlights the old school idea of a doctor/medic’s watch with a pulsometer as the primary complication. It takes this complication and sets it inside a case and dial that are elegant, yet industrial, but some of the changes made to the chronograph functionality caused me to ask some questions. The Beaufort Pulsatimer, upon quick inspection, might look like your average chrono, but the longer you linger over its construction, the more you’ll start to notice its unique styling. The case is almost totally brushed, with the exception of thinly polished chamfered edges and a polished inner bezel ring. The polished ring steps up from a brushed base bezel ring like the watch is laying its own foundation. And rising once more from the step bezel is a significantly raised box sapphire crystal. All this architecture pulls your eye into a dial that dramatically drops from the crystal with the sloped pulsometer chapter ring. Then we find a beautiful, vertically brushed copper-colored dial that Beaufort calls “Salmon.” They also have an all black, DLC coated version, a reverse panda black and silver dial, and an all silver dial version of the Pulsatimer. The architectural nuances of the ca...
Monochrome
Introducing – MeisterSinger Releases Two Vibrant Unomat Limited Editions
MeisterSinger hardly needs an introduction. This award-winning German brand is renowned for its distinctive single-hand time display design, which makes it instantly recognizable. The latest additions to the MeisterSinger lineup are blacked-out versions of the robust and solidly built Unomat series, featuring generous splashes of colour – with a twist. The two new Unomat watches […]
Time+Tide
The Yema Superman Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 is flattened and faded to perfection
The vintage styling of the Superman Skin Diver Slim is clear to see, and pairs nicely with the in-house micro-rotor movement inside.The post The Yema Superman Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 is flattened and faded to perfection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Five Speedy Alternatives To The Current Omega Speedmaster Professional
It has not escaped your attention that the retail price for a new Omega Speedmaster Professional has recently increased. Omega drastically changed many things, not only under the hood (caliber 3861) but also with different exterior parts than before. A new case, dial, hands, and bracelet were been designed for the Moonwatch, making it aesthetically […] Visit Five Speedy Alternatives To The Current Omega Speedmaster Professional to read the full article.
Deployant
New colours for De Bethune DB Eight
De Bethune releases 2 new iterations of the DB Eight chronograph: in white gold case and royal blue dial, and in a yellow case with a chocolate dial.
Fratello
Introducing: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Night Ops For Collective
Our friends at Collective Horology are no strangers to awesome collab releases. The team seems to possess the diplomatic skills required to push some of the greatest watchmakers to do things outside of their usual scope. In the case of Armin Strom, a brand that doesn’t shy away from combining tradition with radical new ideas […] Visit Introducing: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Night Ops For Collective to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Collective and Armin Strom are Back with a Second LE
One of the things we love about independent watchmaking is the ability for a brand to move swiftly on a project based on feedback from their clients, collaborators, and the watch world writ large. A new release from Collective and Armin Strom is a great example of how one good idea can quickly beget another, and in the grand scheme of things it really doesn’t even take that long. Not even two years ago, Collective and Armin Strom released the P.03 Gravity Equal Force, a creative take on one of Armin Strom’s signature designs. The concept behind the original release was to make this bit of high end watchmaking into something truly tactical, and its aesthetic was inspired by apparel, packs, and EDC tools in its finishing, color, and overall vibe. This new release, the P.03 “Night Ops,” takes that idea a step further, and does what arguably should have been done the first time around: blacking out the case. It seems obvious, right? When you think “tactical” in watchmaking, you probably think “black,” at least to some extent. I have to say, though, that until I heard Collective and Armin Strom were making this new edition, the thought never actually crossed my mind that the original should have been black. I think that speaks to the genuine novelty of that first watch. It’s so rare for a haute horlogerie brand like Armin Strom to dabble in EDC inspiration that the first try really sold me. The new Night Ops variant feels like a more fully realized version o...
Monochrome
First Look – The New 38mm Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400
The Oris Divers Sixty-Five resurfaced in 2015, fifty years after its inaugural splash. Leaning on the design cues of its ancestor, the revisited Divers Sixty-Five oozed vintage pedigree. Although the looks of the first models were faithful to their ancestor, the watch was built with contemporary materials and powered by an outsourced movement (Sellita). The […]
Fratello
Introducing: The New 38mm Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 With A Green Dial (Live Pictures)
In February of 2022, Oris and Chronos, WatchTime’s sister publication, released a limited-edition watch together. The 38mm stainless steel Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 had a blue vignette dial. It was the first time the Divers Sixty-Five became available with the new movement in a 38mm case. But as there were only 200 made, it was […] Visit Introducing: The New 38mm Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 With A Green Dial (Live Pictures) to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The Yema Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition, Micro-Rotor Power and Vintage Look
French brand Yema keeps pushing the quality of its watches higher and higher, and the recently released updated and refined Superman Slim CMM.20, featuring a proprietary automatic micro-rotor movement, rightfully received overwhelmingly positive reviews. Today, the watchmaker from the Morteau region presents a new interpretation of the brand’s emblematic 1960s skin dive watch series, the […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical In Three New Colorways
One of Hamilton’s most popular series of watches is, without a doubt, the Khaki Field Mechanical. This range of traditional military-inspired field watches is probably the first that many watch enthusiasts will think of when hearing the name Hamilton. I am one of them as well, and I love the Khaki Field Mechanical series. Multiple […] Visit Introducing: The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical In Three New Colorways to read the full article.