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Hodinkee
In-depth with the next Kollokium project that pushes boundaries while staying practical and highly wearable.
Hodinkee
The brand's second foray into its Rivanera series nails its objective with fewer compromises.
Hodinkee
An homage to Newson's Ikepod designs from the 90s, paired with the ultra-modern watchmaking of Ressence's oil-filled Type 3, leads to an unabashedly unique collaboration.
SJX Watches
Biver expands its Automatique line with a diverse set of new dials that underscore the brand’s fascination with permanence, ranging from billion-year-old mineral stones to finely executed enamel and traditional guilloché. In a year crowded with stone-dial releases, the latest Automatique models stand out for the coherence of the concept and the quality of execution, offering collectors a mix of exotic materials, artisanal craft, and a technically unusual calibre across a wide price spectrum. Initial thoughts Jean-Claude Biver talks a lot about eternity. The slogan for his namesake brand, “eternity has no competition”, is an eloquent expression of what drives the Biver family enterprise, founded with his son Pierre and now led by chief executive James Marks. Beyond the ability to keep time, mechanical watches appeal to enthusiasts precisely because they seem to exist outside of time. Few modern products are crafted from such noble or enduring materials, and for many people a mechanical watch is among the most lasting man-made objects they will ever encounter. Biver’s obsession with eternity is clear in the products themselves. In the case of the Automatique, the brand has chosen to use especially long-lasting materials like gold for the movement plates and bridges, going so far as to used a high-palladium gold alloy that will not tarnish over time. The overly robust cases are another clue as to the motivations of the people behind the Biver brand. Water resistant t...
Worn & Wound
It’s pretty uncommon for a watch line to maintain top-of-mind relevance with the watch community for more than a couple of years. Trends change, the hype spotlight shifts, and newness becomes necessary. We’ve seen brands try to push watches past their expiration points, resulting in diminished excitement and inevitably disappointing. With that said, one line that has endured far longer than I would have expected and is still going strong is the Tissot PRX. Launched in 2021, the PRX was an early entry into the affordable integrated sports watch category, which has also lasted longer than I would have bet. Yet despite being “several” years old, Tissot continues to surprise with updates to the PRX line, keeping it genuinely exciting. Smartly, they haven’t just used it as a throwback line, but rather to experiment with materials that typically come with a higher price tag. Notably, last year they made a forged carbon-fiber version that was lightweight and stealthy. While a material that had come downstream, so to speak, in the years prior, it was still unexpected from Tissot. But 2025’s entry wasn’t just surprising for Tissot; it was surprising for any large-scale brand, especially an affordable one. If you told me I’d be wearing a Damascus steel Tissot that cost $1,175 a few years ago, I would have said, “shut your face!” Just kidding, but I would have been immensely skeptical. An artisanal material, often seen in knife making, it’s scarcely used in watc...
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
We’ve tested both of these iconic military watches to break down design, build, and military-grade toughness.
SJX Watches
The 30th anniversary of the Chopard L.U.C. manufacture was one anniversary among many this year, but it will likely be remembered thanks to the Grand Strike, the most complicated watch in Chopard’s history and its first grande sonnerie. Building on the successful Full Strike minute repeater architecture and making full use of the brand’s patented sapphire gongs, the Grand Strike is a chronometer-certified two-train clock watch with a push-button minute repeater. In this context, the presence of the tourbillon is almost a footnote. Initial thoughts I can count on one hand the number of brands that have created their own grande sonnerie wristwatch. It’s one of the few things in watchmaking that’s proven challenging enough to still be rare, even in the days of computer-aided design (CAD) and advanced manufacturing technology like wire erosion. For this reason, the grande sonnerie has a towering cultural presence among watchmakers and collectors, looming above all other complications. For Chopard, the Grand Strike represents the culmination of 30 years of the L.U.C. manufacture, the brand’s haute horlogerie division. The first impression of the Grand Strike is one of extraordinary depth. There’s not much of a dial, save for the minutes scale etched on the inside of the sapphire crystal, and the small concentric sub-dials for the dual power reserve displays. This depth shrinks the watch visually, and it feels dense and compact despite its rather large 43 mm size and...
Hodinkee
The Time Jumper is Czapek's first jump-hour watch and features a half-hunter case, a nod to the brand's pocket-watch legacy, in both gold and steel.
SJX Watches
Earlier this year F.P. Journe unveiled its most daring jewellery watch yet, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis, set with the largest baguette rubies ever used in watchmaking. Despite the current popularity of high jewellery watches, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie (TVJ) Rubis is an audacious undertaking that required eight years to accumulate the right gemstones – and the destruction of 61 carats of gem-quality rubies to make this single watch. Initial thoughts Haute joaillerie watches of this sort are not new; the 1980s and 1990s saw significant demand for gem-set complicated watches, especially in Asia. But Over the last decade such watches have shifted from niche offerings to an important (and resilient) pillar of the business for many brands. Coloured stones are seeing marked interest too, as a sort of trend within a trend, as exemplified by Rolex’s “Rainbow” Daytona, one of the brand’s hottest models. Patek Philippe’s 2022 launch of the gem-set Grandmaster Chime trio can also be seen as a milestone for the genre, with one of Geneva’s flagship fine watchmaking brands adorning its flagship watch with diamonds, emeralds and sapphires. A unique Piaguet minute repeating pocket watch that’s a fine example of 1990s gem-setting high horology But with the TVJ, it’s clear that F.P. Journe is not simply following industry trends – this watch is eight years in the making and belongs to a two-decade tradition of high jewellery tour...
Hodinkee
The watch, a part of the late Robert Olmsted's history-changing collection, goes up for sale on December 8.
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SJX Watches
Ressence has unveiled the Type 3 Marc Newson, an 80-piece limited edition that unites Marc Newson’s softly contoured, playful futurism with Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens’ long-running pursuit of a ‘dematerialised’ time display. Functionally unchanged from the standard Type 3, the MN edition introduces a colourway and set of visual cues drawn directly from the famed industrial designer’s archives, resulting in a new watch that feels instantly familiar. The Type 3 MN retains Ressence’s signature oil-filled upper chamber, which eliminates optical distortion and makes the indications appear projected onto the underside of the crystal - an effect that reads almost digital at first glance. Initial thoughts Some collaborations seem almost predestined; the partnership between Benoît Mintiens and Marc Newson is one of them. Both men share an affinity for modern minimalism and pebble-like organic forms, so their first joint project feels like an overdue meeting of minds. Benoît Mintiens and Marc Newson. Image – Ressence The Type 3 MN manages to combine the best instincts of both designers, resulting in a watch that lends an Ikepod-like lug-less case to Ressence’s signature oil-filled display. We’ll come back to the design, but one of the most impactful aspects of the Type 3 MN is its comfort on the wrist. Mr Newson is well known for his ergonomic designs; the strap he designed for Ikepod was later licensed by Apple, making it possibly the world’s most pop...
Hodinkee
The young British brand refines its easy-wearing diver with a suite of upgrades, including hardened steel, anti-magnetism, and more.
WatchAdvice
Seiko and Supercars Australia hit the road again with a brand-new limited edition for 2025! But can it keep the pace, or will it fall behind? Let’s find out! What We Love: Hot colourway and design inspiration Accessible price and wearability for most Love to see another Australian exclusive! What We Don’t: Seiko straps are always stiff Bezel far too easy to turn How ‘limited’ should a ‘limited edition’ be? Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 7/10 I think it’s fair to say that Seiko has been on quite a roll this year. It’s been a turbulent time for the watch industry, given how both the Swiss and German markets are faring under economic circumstances. But the horological ‘Beast from the East’ just keeps getting better and better. You might think this comes from behind a pair of rose-coloured glasses; After all, we at Watch Advice are passionate advocates for the Japanese powerhouse. But if you don’t want to hear it from us, try Seiko themselves. According to the brand’s 2025 Q2 report, their 2024 Financial Year (April 2024 – March 2025) saw their net global watch sales swell by nearly 12%. An impressive feat, especially considering that the Swiss Federation of the Watch Industry (FHS) reported a near 3% decline in Swiss watch exports in 2024. Seiko And Watch Advice Team Up For An Amazing Collector Night But of course, these triumphs aren’t just because people suddenly decided to buy Seik...
Hodinkee
A few striking updates to AP's most unique execution of a time-only watch.
SJX Watches
Breguet has enjoyed a great 250th anniversary year – one that promises to end with a big reveal in early December – with several commemorative editions launched for the occasion. The best of the lot, however, is undoubtedly the Classique 7225. Equipped with one of the most advanced time-only movements on the market, the Classique 7225 combines cutting edge modern watchmaking of the best industrial-haute horlogerie variety with an unexpectedly captivating aesthetic. Some of its details don’t quite make sense, yet the 7225 as a whole makes a lot of sense. Initial thoughts The Classique 7225 has a great deal of tactile appeal – it feels good on the wrist. In fact, the 7225 is probably the first Breguet in a long time that is sexy. If there’s one Breguet in today’s catalogue I really want, it’s this one. At 41 mm, the 7225 might measure large for such a watch, but the proportions are just right. The case is thin enough, while the wide dial maximises the impact of the guilloche on a gold base. If anything, the design might look odd with a smaller format, since the look comes from a pocket watch after all. Visually, the 7225 is striking and employs the classic Breguet style to great effect. Almost all the elements are familiar so the watch is recognisably “Breguet”, yet it different from the rest of the catalogue. The 7225 instantly looks like a Breguet, which shows its creators have an instinctive understanding of the brand. With its “floating” magnetic ba...
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![[VIDEO] Hands-On: The Incredibly Wearable Grand Seiko SLGW007](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/11/GS_SLGW007_19.jpg)
Worn & Wound
It’s very telling to me to see what my initial reactions were to a watch when it was announced. At Watches and Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko launched the SLGW003 “birch bark” featuring a new movement, the manual-wound 9SA4, and a new case within the Evolution 9 series. Looking back at the video that Zach Kazan and I shot to accompany the announcement post, you can see just how excited we were about it, despite being jet-lagged and inundated with new releases. The interesting part is that the new movement, which by all measures is the more significant development for the brand in terms of R&D;, played second fiddle to the case, which addressed some enthusiast issues with Grand Seikos. At 38.6mm x 45mm x 9.95mm, the SLGW003 had idyllic proportions, particularly in terms of thickness, which has long been a thorn in GS’s Zaratsu-polished side. Additionally, the 003 featured 20mm lugs, an uncommon feature for a GS, yet the most common strap width. It’s funny how big a deal a couple of dimensions can be, and yet, as you can see, it’s what we cared about most. Since that release, Grand Seiko has only used the 9SA4 in one other set of watches, the epically cool 45GS tribute SLGW005 and its precious metal sibling, the SLGW004, but not until the SLGW007, the watch I’m actually supposed to be writing about, have we seen a return to that new case design. Although I’ve encountered the SLGW003 in person a couple of times, I haven’t had the chance to wear it for more than a ...
Hodinkee
A step toward a more heritage-focused Ranger also comes with a big visual update that is sure to make a lot of people very happy.
Monochrome
Frederique Constant already impressed us with the salmon dial version launched as a Europe-exclusive model. The recent blue-dial Frederique Constant Classics Premiere on bracelet is another proof that “accessible luxury” doesn’t have to mean “generic.” It’s still the same compact, classically styled three-hander launched in 2023, but the move to a differently styled dial and […]
Hodinkee
The revived brand by LVMH's La Fabrique du Temps goes for a hat trick with a monochromatic take on its tourbillon watch.
Hodinkee
Four new nature-inspired dials for one of the sleepers in the German brand's catalog.
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WatchAdvice
A tourbillon with attitude and a dial that refuses to be ignored. Zenith takes the DEFY Skyline to a whole new level with this rose-gold powerhouse. Bold, modern, and seriously impressive on the wrist! What We Love The combination of a brick-red dial with 18kt rose gold is the perfect combination. Rich, warm, and instantly eye-catching. High-frequency movement and a flying tourbillon is an extremely rare combination that Zenith has executed with some serious technical finesse. From the mirror-polished chamfers to the brushed facets and the rose-gold rotor, everything feels intentional, premium, and beautifully executed. What We Don’t Limited versatility when on the full-gold bracelet. It pushes the watch firmly into “special occasion” territory. A premium model with stunning looks and highly technical movement, the price, however, might put the watch out of reach for many. While the rotor and caseback finishing are gorgeous, much of the movement is still closed off, and some collectors may wish for a more open view. Overall Rating: 9.1/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 Zenith has long stood as a brand that has valued itself on precision and bold mechanical innovation, all the way from its roots back in Le Locle in 1865. This has become apparent even more with the invention of the El Primero movement, cementing the brand’s position as one of the leaders of high-beat performance. In the modern era of watchmaking, Zenith...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary Les Cabinotiers offerings include a variation on a theme with the Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades”. Having been introduced several years ago, the Armillary Tourbillon is a double-axis regulator with a bi-retrograde time display. This unique iteration is dressed entirely in yellow gold, and intricately hand engraved across all of the case surfaces. Initial thoughts The Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades” channels the same celestial inspiration found on the other 270th anniversary watches into mythological storytelling, blending the brand’s signature double-axis tourbillon with sculptural engraving. Still inspired by the stars, this unique piece takes its theme from the Greek myth of the Pleiades - seven sisters transformed into stars who have guided sailors for millennia. The watch is as much about artistic expression as it is about mechanics. The heavily open-worked dial exposes much of the movement beneath, showcasing the double retrograde system for the hours and minutes. The champagne-toned bridges share the same warm hue as the Cosmica Duo, while the finishing throughout is of the highest standard. The cal. 1990 inside remains as appealing as ever, with skeletonised snail cams and beautiful swirling levers for the retrograde works, all tightly packed on the right side of the dial. The blued hands point to a numbered half-circle sector, which is useful since reading the time on this “halved” fo...
SJX Watches
Marking its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin (VC) has celebrated in grand style, exemplified by the year’s latest, a pair of double-dial grand complications: Les Cabinotiers Cosmica Duo and Les Cabinotiers Moon Dust. Initial thoughts Each of the new Les Cabinotiers watches expresses a different facet of VC’s watchmaking identity. The Cosmica Duo stands out as a true wrist-worn observatory, combining 24 astronomical indications with a reversible construction that makes it unusually wearable for its complexity, while the baguette-set Moon Dust translates horological ambition into pure jewellery, with hundreds of diamonds framing a movement that remains uncompromisingly mechanical. As a group, these watches reinforce the idea that VC’s greatest strength lies in synthesis. Few manufactures can move so fluidly between engineering precision and artistic refinement, or treat engraving, gem-setting, and chiming mechanisms as parallel forms of expression. As unique pieces, pricing is largely outside the scope of this hands-on evaluation. As is typical for VC’s bespoke Les Cabinotiers department, each watch was almost certainly developed in close collaboration with its eventual owner, making them more commissions than catalogue items. Their value, therefore, lies not only in their material complexity but also in the fact that each represents a personal chapter in the continuing story of Geneva’s oldest watchmaker. The layered architecture of the Cosmica Duo. Image ...
Monochrome
Lebois & Co. was founded in 1934, and since its revival a decade ago, the independent has been steadily building a catalogue that treats vintage codes with the utmost care. The turning point was the Heritage Chronograph, a compact, community-shaped bi-compax that gave the brand a clear design language: classical proportions, crisp typography, and useful […]
Monochrome
Vanguart is a young independent watchmaking brand founded by four men: Thierry Fisher, Jeremy Frelechox, Axel Leuenberger and Mehmet Korutürk. Both Leuenberger and Frelechox previously honed their skills at Audemars Piguet. Fisher is in charge of design. Korutürk has a background in finance and was working for a private equity company. Presented in 2021, their […]
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