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Hands-On: Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin China Edition SJX Watches
Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin Nov 23, 2022

Hands-On: Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin China Edition

Descended from Piaget’s ultra-thin dress watches that first emerged six decades ago, the Altiplano is the brand’s quintessential dress watch in the modern day. Minimalist and refined, the Altiplano is pared back, legible, and well-proportioned – not to mention very thin – as expected from a brand that launched its first ultra-thin watch in 1957. The latest addition to the ultra-thin lineup is the 21-piece limited edition that emerged from a collaboration between Piaget and auctioneers Phillips, the Altiplano Origin China Special Limited Edition. It will be available only at Piaget boutiques in China with the exception of the prototype numbered “00/21” that will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale on November 28. Initial thoughts Ordinarily found with a conservative and somewhat plain silver dial, the Altiplano gets a major makeover with a lacquered green dial paired with pink gold hands and indices that liven up its usual monochromatic look. It’s clearly a dress watch yet manages to stand out against all the other dress watches. That said, the dial is almost perfect, but not quite – the date window with a white date disc looks out of place. I would have preferred the dial to do away with the date altogether. The case remains the same as the standard model with a wearable and modern size of 40 mm matched with a thinness of just 6.36 mm that’s further enhanced by the slim lugs. Its height, or lack thereof, is thanks to the cal. 1205P, among the...

BVLGARI Octo Finissimo, The New Icon Part III: A Crowning Achievement Revolution
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Nov 3, 2022

BVLGARI Octo Finissimo, The New Icon Part III: A Crowning Achievement

The journey of the Octo Finissimo continues, BVLGARI having conquered the new frontier of ultra-thin high complications. In 2018, the brand would reintroduce its icon in a whole different finish, this time in stainless steel, maintaining its infinitely wearable appeal. Nine years’ worth of world records would culminate in the top prize of the 2021 […]

Piaget & Phillips Introduce the Altiplano Origin China Edition SJX Watches
Piaget & Phillips Introduce Oct 10, 2022

Piaget & Phillips Introduce the Altiplano Origin China Edition

Piaget typically relies on a conventional palette for its signature ultra-thin dress watches, but its latest Altiplano livens things up. A collaboration between Piaget and auctioneers Phillips, the Altiplano Origin China Special Edition is based on the watchmaker’s wafer-thin watch equipped with its in-house, super-flat automatic movement. Ordinarily found with a sedate silver dial, the Altiplano gets gradient green dial with pink gold hands and markings in a 21-piece limited edition available only in China. Initial thoughts Piaget’s typical formal watches with silver dials are classic, but they can be too plain. Excepting a handful with dials in unusual materials or finishes, I find many of them overly formal and visually flat. The China edition, in contrast, instantly stands out. Though it changes nothing in terms of the basic design, the gradient green lacquer and pink gold accents give the dial a vibrance absent in the standard models. Green, however, is today’s fashionable colour, which means it’s more common than it should be. Even so, the China edition has minor design tweaks that give it a more appealing aesthetic than the standard version, like the elimination of the numerals from the seconds register. Priced at 10% more than the standard model in white gold, the China edition is more appealing. Elegantly flat In contrast to similar Altiplano models that are almost uniformly kitted out in silver dials, the China edition has a dial that’s a deep, shaded...

Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf: My Once Predicted Winner For This Year’s ‘Best Chronograph’ At The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Quill & Pad
MB&F; Aug 20, 2022

Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf: My Once Predicted Winner For This Year’s ‘Best Chronograph’ At The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

When Tim and Bart Grönefeld showed Ian Skellern their prototype 1941 Grönograaf during Watches & Wonders 2022, he loved it. But he didn’t think it would win “Best Chronograph” 2022 at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève because he thought that prize would go to the then-soon-to-be-released MB&F; LM Sequential EVO. Ian has since changed his mind, and here's why.

Why did I fall more in love with this $50 Citizen than my $5,000 Cartier? Time+Tide
Cartier ? Aug 5, 2022

Why did I fall more in love with this $50 Citizen than my $5,000 Cartier?

The phrase “nothing special” is often thrown around when you’re showing your watch to other enthusiasts. It might be a bashful term born out of shyness, some insecurity that your watch isn’t as expensive as the other person’s, or it could even be sarcasm when the watch on your wrist is worth more than some … ContinuedThe post Why did I fall more in love with this $50 Citizen than my $5,000 Cartier? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week Time+Tide
Apr 24, 2022

Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week

Years ago, when I watched the documentary The Watchmaker’s Apprentice, which details the journey of George Daniels and the path of watchmaker Roger W. Smith becoming his sole apprentice, I remember being awe-struck at the meticulous art of watchmaking and  the perseverance required to achieve mastery in the field. Since that documentary, however, there have not … ContinuedThe post Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel on Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Repeater SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Les Cabinotiers Repeater Apr 16, 2022

Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel on Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Repeater

Taking place every two years in Venice, Homo Faber is an exhibition dedicated to craftsmanship of all forms, ranging from glass to porcelain to fabric. Because its organiser is the Michelangelo Foundation established by Johann Rupert, the plain-speaking chairman of Richemont, several of the Swiss group’s watchmakers are taking part. One of them is Vacheron Constantin, which is presenting a pair of one-off striking watches at Homo Faber – the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeaters Ultra-Thin “Thunder God” and “Wind God”. The watches each recreate one half of Wind God and Thunder God, a pair of folding screens made by 16th century Japanese painter Tawaraya Sōtatsu that depicts the titular gods of Japanese mythology. Initial thoughts Owned by a temple in Kyoto, the folding screen is a National Treasure of Japan, a cultural object deemed so important by the Japanese government that it cannot be exported. The screen is certainly a worthy subject for a high-quality miniature, and Vacheron Constantin appears to have done justice to it. The dial decoration is perfect for a repeater, since the brand’s cal. 1731 minute repeater movement is relatively large, resulting in an expansive dial that is usually blank. It’s an ideal canvas for artisanal decoration. Vacheron Constantin’s enamel work, whether in house or done by independent artisans like Anita Porchet, is usually impeccable. The repeater dials definitely look the part. In fact, the miniatures of the gods are im...

Bulgari Marks 10 Years of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo with “Pencil Sketch” Dials SJX Watches
Bulgari Marks 10 Years Mar 21, 2022

Bulgari Marks 10 Years of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo with “Pencil Sketch” Dials

Perhaps Bulgari’s signature men’s wristwatch, the Octo Finissimo is an ultra-thin wristwatch that has spawned a range of watches and variety of complications, including a perpetual calendar and minute repeater. Now the Italian jeweller marks a decade of its bestseller with a pair of limited editions that pay tribute to the original design – literally. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 10th Anniversary and Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 10th Anniversary both feature “pencil sketch” dials that essentially reproduce the initial drawings of both models penned by Fabrizio Buonamass Stigliani, the design chief at Bulgari’s watch division. Initial thoughts The twin anniversary editions are only modest tweaks on the standard design, but accompanied by equally modest price differences, which makes them appealing alternatives for someone who likes the monochromatic look of the standard models but wants a little extra. The “sketch” dials are clever and amusing, though not entirely new since similar drawing-inspired dials have been done in the past by Nomos and Fortis. Still, they have a whimsical appeal. Price-wise, the two anniversary editions aren’t much more than the standard models. The automatic is €800 extra, while the chronograph actually costs the same as the standard version. Being identical to the standard models in size and material, both anniversary editions will feel the same on the wrist, light and sleek. I fin...

Uma Thurman, Rihanna, Dua Lipa and more confirm this Cartier remains the go-to power watch Time+Tide
Cartier remains Mar 10, 2022

Uma Thurman, Rihanna, Dua Lipa and more confirm this Cartier remains the go-to power watch

There are actors in Hollywood who get typecast, playing the same kind of character over and over. How many different ways can Vin Diesel, The Rock, and Jason Statham save the world? When will Michael Cera get to be something other than the lovable geek, or Seth Rogen the lovable stoner schlub? But, today, I … ContinuedThe post Uma Thurman, Rihanna, Dua Lipa and more confirm this Cartier remains the go-to power watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronogr... Jan 11, 2022

In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

When Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 260th anniversary in 2015 with the Harmony collection of cushion-shaped watches, the standout was easily the split-seconds chronograph. Seemingly ordinary on its face, the Harmony split-seconds was powered by the cal. 3500, an all-new rattrapante chronograph calibre with a novel automatic winding mechanism. The movement was gorgeous, but disappeared from the catalogue – until last year. The cal. 3500 made its comeback with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Like the other Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) watches, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is a limited edition – only 15 pieces in fact – that utilises platinum generously throughout the watch, but it is unique as there is no standard production equivalent in the catalogue. In short, it is a special watch. The cal. 3500 with its intricate chronograph mechanism and novel peripheral rotor Initial thoughts On its face, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is an elegant watch with a restrained, almost simple style. Its proportions are wide and slim, creating a graceful profile. The thinness exaggerates the case diameter slightly, so it does seem a bit wider than it is, especially with the longish lugs. In typical CEP style, the dial is nearly monochromatic, rendered in grey and silver, with the only colour coming from the indicator hands for the chronograph and power reserve. It’s a simple combination, but a good one. The pla...

The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca) Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Dec 2, 2021

The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca)

Wear and tear often bolsters the appeal of a vintage watch. Picture a chronograph dial aged to a warm tropical hue, or a diver’s watch shadowed with caramel patina. Rather than signs of decay, such well-worn details are celebrated as adding character and authenticity. Like the laughter lines on an old man’s face, they’re testimony … ContinuedThe post The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Steel Deployant
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Steel Nov 27, 2021

Review: new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Steel

Parmigiani's offering is well designed and executed and provides a subtle alternative to the crowded steel bracelet watch category. The thinness of the watch and the utility of a simple time only haute horologerie bracelet watch makes for a highly versatile stealth wealth timepiece. This segment popularized by the two-handed ultra thin models of Genta lineage has seen a resurgence in the past few years. Considering how unattainable these pieces have become of late, consumers have turned to alternatives.

Don’t kid yourself desk diver: Why you should wear dress watches more Time+Tide
Rolex sports watch While that’s Oct 30, 2021

Don’t kid yourself desk diver: Why you should wear dress watches more

In many ways, dress watches have become an overlooked genre in the watch world. While manufactures haven’t forgotten them, we certainly don’t see the same hype surrounding the latest Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso release as we do for, say, a new Rolex sports watch. While that’s not to knock Rolex by any means (I’m guilty of … ContinuedThe post Don’t kid yourself desk diver: Why you should wear dress watches more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Piaget Introduces the Mid-Size Polo 36 mm SJX Watches
Piaget Introduces Aug 25, 2021

Piaget Introduces the Mid-Size Polo 36 mm

After a major facelift in 2016, the Piaget Polo has evolved into a thin but sporty watch available in a variety of guises, including the ultra-thin, skeletonised version introduced earlier in the year. But all of the Polo models to date are masculine, with the smallest model a sizeable 42 mm in diameter (and the high complicated Emperador models even larger). Now Piaget has finally taken the covers off the Piaget Polo Date 36 mm, essentially a mid-sized version of the Polo sports watch. It’s a straightforward watch – automatic, three hands, and date – with either a little or a lot of bling. Initial thoughts Given the popularity of luxury-sports watches, the introduction of the Polo Date 36 mm is a natural progression, while also making sense since there are increasingly enthusiasts, both male and female, who want such watches in a smaller format. That said, the new Polo is primarily a feminine watch, especially since all versions are set with diamonds. Even the understated base model in steel with a blue dial has diamond hour markers. Price wise, the Polo Date 36 mm is pretty competitive, both against its larger sibling as well as alternatives from the competition. For instance, the steel version with diamond markers is priced at US$13,100, which is about 10% pricier than the 42 mm version – that doesn’t have any diamonds – and a lot more affordable than many high-end luxury-sports watches. Still, the Polo is fairly priced for what it is. They are executed ...

In-Depth: The Audacity of Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept SJX Watches
Piaget s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Jul 28, 2021

In-Depth: The Audacity of Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept

A relentless pursuit of diminishing returns seems to be the norm in the world of high-end watchmaking. Better finishing, lightness, longer power reserve, or chronometric performance, refined and enhanced to the nth degree – there is always something to improve, but by tinier and tinier margins. Brands and watchmakers, in turn, often develop a specific niche, trying to best each other with ever-smaller improvements. In the niche of ultra-thin watches, there are only a handful of serious players. Piaget is one such player. The brand’s forte is thickness, or rather, thinness – Piaget has held the record for the thinnest production watch on multiple occasions, with only a handful of rivals able to best its various records. And now it’s the reigning champ once again with the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC). Just 2 mm high in its entirety, the AUC is so thin it looks almost like an optical illusion in photos – and a prop in real life. But it is a perfectly functional – and water-resistant – mechanical wristwatch. So the question is, how did Piaget do it? And of course, do the diminishing marginal gains justify the retail price of approximately 400,000 Swiss francs? Altiplano evolution Prior to the AUC, Piaget’s best-known attempt at the crown was the Altiplano 900P. Released in 2013, the Altiplano 900P stands just 3.65 mm high. It held the record of the thinnest mechanical watch on the market until 2015, when the title taken by Piaget’s sister brand, Jaeg...

RECOMMENDED READING: Why this tech CEO thinks his watch is more modern than his smartphone Time+Tide
Jun 18, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Why this tech CEO thinks his watch is more modern than his smartphone

How could a mechanical wristwatch be more modern than an smartwatch? As any high school debater will tell you, it depends how you define your terms, but that is exactly the question Jason Fried, the Founder & CEO at Basecamp, asked in a recent blog post. His argument? Well, it all boils down to how … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why this tech CEO thinks his watch is more modern than his smartphone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why the Cambodian Prime Minister is being politically threatened over his watch collection Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet May 19, 2021

Why the Cambodian Prime Minister is being politically threatened over his watch collection

If you’re a head of state in a democratic country, it generally isn’t a good idea to wear your best watches in public.  Bill Clinton, for example, famously wore a Timex during his time in office, but since leaving the White House has been spotted with the likes of  Jaeger LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet and A. … ContinuedThe post Why the Cambodian Prime Minister is being politically threatened over his watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Apr 13, 2021

Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar

Having notched up records for the thinnest watch in several categories – including tourbillon, chronograph as well as minute repeater – Bulgari is continuing with the perpetual calendar. The Italian jeweller now claims another record for thinness – its seventh – with the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar. Taking the mantle from the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, the new Octo perpetual calendar is just 5.8 mm in its entirety – with a movement only 2.75 mm high. It’ll be offered in the traditional livery of the Octo Finissimo of sandblasted titanium, but unusually also in platinum with an alligator strap. Platinum (left), and titanium Initial thoughts There’s no doubt that Bulgari is perhaps the best at ultra-thin watches – its titles for the thinnest watch in seven categories are testament to that. Yet the brand doesn’t simply rely on its record-setting thinness as a gimmick. Most of its ultra-thin watches are interesting beyond the slimness. The Octo design in its own right is striking. And the perpetual calendar has been executed in a symmetrical, sensible manner. Though the dial is somewhat crowded, it remains legible thanks to the large sub-dials and minimalist aesthetic. It’s a well-designed watch and perhaps the most stylish perpetual calendar on the market. The calendar includes a retrograde date in an arc on the upper half of the dial, with the day and month just below, and the leap year in a tiny display at the base Be...