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SJX Watches

Breguet Marie Antoinette” Watch Nov 22, 2024

Breguet “Marie Antoinette” Watch to go on Show in London

The fabled Breguet no. 160 “Marie Antoinette” (pictured above, image credit Baruch Coutts) was reputedly made for the last queen of France, but was so complicated that it took decades to complete, by which time the queen was long dead. Stolen in 1983 and then recovered in 2007, the legendary watch started by Abraham-Louis Breguet will be on display for the first time outside of the L.A. Mayer Museum for Islamic Art In Jerusalem since its recovery. From December 12, the Breguet “Marie Antoinette” will be on show at the Science Museum in London (which is also home to important George Daniels creations, including the unfinished watch and the Space Traveller II). The Breguet Marie Antoinette is  part of Versailles: Science and Splendour, an exhibition dedicated to the scientific and technology discoveries related to the French royal court in the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibition explores a 120-year span of scientific progress at Versailles, illustrating the scientific endeavours accomplished during the reigns of Louis XIV, Louis XV, and Louis XVI. The mythical watch While the exhibition will include over 100 exhibits, watch enthusiasts will know the highlight is Breguet no. 160, the grand complication commissioned in 1783, by Marie Antoinette’s lover according to legend, hence its longstanding nickname. A no-expense-spared commission, watch no. 160 was only completed in 1827, having been delayed by A.-L. Breguet’s exile during the French Revolution. By the t...

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SJX Watches

Nov 19, 2024

Chronicles of Precision: The Quest for Equation of Time Part II

Continuing from part I of the history of the equation of time. In the late 17th century, London’s clockmaking landscape experienced a remarkable surge of innovation and collaboration, fuelled by interactions among prominent horologists and the broader scientific community. Among this period’s leading figures were Christian Huygens and Robert Hooke, who made substantial strides in crafting clocks that could precisely display solar time without the need for cumbersome equation tables. This era marked the advent of the equation cam, a revolutionary mechanism designed to reconcile the disparities between solar time and mean time. Inspired by the analemma-a figure-eight pattern illustrating the Sun’s varying positions in the sky throughout the seasons-these mechanisms featured a distinctive mathematically calculated kidney-shaped cam, symbolising a pivotal step forward in horological precision and accuracy. At the heart of this innovation lies the cam and lever mechanism, an integral component of the invention. It comprises a shaft propelled by the clock’s mechanism, completing a full rotation annually. Affixed to this shaft is a meticulously crafted kidney-shaped cam, tailored precisely to match the annual fluctuations outlined by the equation. This cam engages with a follower and a connected lever, facilitating the seamless translation of its rotational motion into practical adjustments within the timepiece. Drawing of an equation pendulum by Ferdinand Berthoud (1...

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Fratello

Cartier Vacheron Nov 18, 2024

The Fratello Watch List: Mike’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Cartier, Vacheron, And Rolex

Over the past year, I’ve enjoyed smaller, simpler watches from the ’40s and ’50s. This change in my collecting course has been fun and relatively inexpensive. Does that mean I’ve given up on later vintage and more modern pieces? Absolutely not, but as you’ll see with the majority of today’s pre-owned and vintage favorites, the […] Visit The Fratello Watch List: Mike’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Cartier, Vacheron, And Rolex to read the full article.

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Fratello

Studio Underd0g Nov 18, 2024

Introducing: The Third-Generation Studio Underd0g 01Series - ­­A New And Improved Breed

Do you want to use a Seagull ST-1901 movement in your new watch? Sure, that’s no problem, but you’ll need to order a minimum of 10,000 units. That’s something you want to hear as a small brand when asking the Chinese movement manufacturer about possibly supplying you with calibers. But instead of looking for possible […] Visit Introducing: The Third-Generation Studio Underd0g 01Series - ­­A New And Improved Breed to read the full article.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Nov 16, 2024

The Petrolhead Corner – A Pair of Exquisite and Iconic Jaguars Making Automotive Headlines

Jaguar is one of the great British car manufacturers, perhaps only rivalled by Aston Martin when it comes to style, class, and heritage. It started out as the Swallow Sidecar Company in 1922, making motorcycle sidecars before moving into the production of cars in the mid-1930s, with the first-ever car being the SS Jaguar 2.5L […]

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Nov 15, 2024

Black Friday Deals Live Now In The Windup Watch Shop

Black Friday Deals Live Now The More You Spend, the More You Save   It’s that time - we’re kicking off our Black Friday Sale in the Windup Watch Shop with exciting deals and promotions to help you kick the holiday season into gear, including discounts on some products that never go on sale. As an added incentive, we’ve brought back our tiered discount system - the more you spend, the more you’ll save!   As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. Black Friday Deals Live Now The More You Spend, the More You Save   It’s that time - we’re kicking off our Black Friday Sale in the Windup Watch Shop with exciting deals and promotions to help you kick the holiday season into gear, including discounts on some products that never go on sale. As an added incentive, we’ve brought back our tiered discount system - the more you spend, the more you’ll save!   As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post Black Friday Deals Live Now In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Ball Watch Nov 14, 2024

Ball Watch Roadmaster M Model A Review

The best bit of trivia I’ve heard about the Ball Watch Company, founded by its eponym, Webster Clay “Webb” Ball in 1891 — and one I have admittedly kept alive in conversations over the years — is that the expression “on the ball” actually has its origins in the world-renowned accuracy of the railroad watches the company produced in the early 20th Century. The legend, likely apocryphal, has it that “on the ball,” which today denotes a general sense of efficiency and promptness, once referred to a train being dependably on time thanks to the conductor’s use of one of Webb Ball’s meticulously adjusted pocket chronometers. Whether or not any of this is true, what cannot be disputed is Ball Watch’s impressive track record in making tool watches — initially for keeping the railways that knitted together the modern, interconnected United States running smoothly, and eventually pieces engineered specially for divers, pilots, firefighters, and even storm chasers.  Ball’s latest release is the Roadmaster M Model A, a timepiece that ushers a mechanical alarm function (that’s the “A”) into the lineup for the first time. As a diehard fan of the somewhat niche complication (I sing its praises and explore its storied history here), I was excited when the Ball Watch team sent me the heads-up on the model several months ahead of its debut and even more eager to get my hands on it for a review.  As with most Ball watches, the case of the Roadmaster M Mode...

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Monochrome

Tissot Nov 12, 2024

First Look – The new PR516 Powermatic 80 is Tissot at its Best

Earlier this year, Tissot introduced a revised version of its classic 1960s watch, the PR516 Chronograph Mechanical. Stylish with just the right retro touch, well-proportioned, featuring a hand-wound movement and offered at an accessible price, it got very positive reactions from the watch community – and from us, too. Lo and behold, another model is […]

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Chronoswiss Nov 11, 2024

Introducing – The new Chronoswiss Strike Two Terra and Strike Two Highland Regulators

Chronoswiss, founded in 1983 in Munich by the late Gerd Lang, acquired renown for the celebrated watchmaker’s regulator models and distinctive design language. Now in the hands of Oliver Ebstein, with headquarters in Lucerne, the brand’s traditional regulators have been given a 21st-century visual punch and reinterpreted with vivid colours and textures. Pushing the envelope, […]

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D Deployant

Deployant

Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe Nov 9, 2024

New: Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe

The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe is a limited-edition timepiece designed to commemorate the Vendée Globe, a grueling solo sailing race around the world. The independant Swiss watch maison, that built its name supplying accurate, reliable marine chronometers to the world’s navies in the 19th century, will serve as an Official Partner and the Official Timekeeper of the Vendée Globe, the World’s largest solo, non-stop, unassisted round the-world sailing race.

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Worn & Wound

Panerai Nov 4, 2024

Hands-On: the Fleux FLX003

Search for “vintage watch” on Kickstarter and you’ll be met with page after page of watches that seek to capture the charm of watches from decades past. Some will be near-replicas that look more like carbon copies than modern interpretations. Others will find a balance of paying homage to iconic designs while still maintaining an air of originality. While the approaches vary, vintage inspired designs remain pervasive – they’re just about everywhere. Last year, Toronto based Fleux joined the ranks of brands crowdfunding their vintage inspired freshman releases with the FLX001 and FLX002– taking the amalgamation route by drawing inspiration from a variety of classic skin divers. The FLX001 featured chunky lume plots and a blocky orange hour hand that brought to mind images of Squale and Vulcain. The FLX002 featured a California dial, a layout of half Roman and half Arabic numerals that was popularized by brands like Rolex and Panerai. Changing gears to pay homage to a single watch rather than a genre, the FLX003 unapologetically draws its inspiration from the Omega Seamaster 300 Big Triangle- also known as the “Big T”. The Watch Lets address the elephant in the room: When considering a $500 NH38 powered Omega inspired dive watch, it’s fair to ask how it differs from the other Omega-inspired designs on the market. Afterall, a 200 meter, Seiko powered watch from Pagani Design can be yours for about $100. I’ve personally owned (and worn with pride) many of t...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Louis Erard Régulateur Gravé Noir Oct 31, 2024

First Look – The New Louis Erard Régulateur Gravé Noir, with Reimagined Sector Dial

Sector dials, with their unique segmented layouts designed over a century ago for improved readability, have a lasting appeal that continues to inspire modern watchmakers. Today, many brands incorporate sector dial watches into their collections, and Louis Erard – founded in 1929 during the peak of this design’s popularity – is no exception. Its Excellence […]

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F Fratello

Fratello

Bell & Ross Mr Jones Scurfa Oct 31, 2024

Halloween Watches: Be Afraid, Very Afraid This Year! - Ghoulish Wristwear From Bell & Ross, Mr Jones, Scurfa, And More

What better way to celebrate the dark day of Halloween than with some scary wristwear? I’m not talking about electrified watches that’ll zap you in the night, but it could mean some newfound color for your watch box. In fact, some Halloween watches are cool all year round. This year, I have found great examples, […] Visit Halloween Watches: Be Afraid, Very Afraid This Year! - Ghoulish Wristwear From Bell & Ross, Mr Jones, Scurfa, And More to read the full article.

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SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin Don Pancho” Oct 31, 2024

Auction: Breguet 3218 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Wristwatch at Christie’s

One of the most intriguing and significant watches in Christie’s upcoming Geneva auction on November 11 is Breguet no. 3218, a tonneau-shaped wristwatch with a perpetual calendar and retrograde date sold in 1935. In all likelihood the first wristwatch ever with these complications, no. 3218 is also notable for its provenance: the original owner was Paul Iribe, Coco Chanel’s romantic partner. The watch is going under the hammer with a low estimate of CHF100,000 – modest considering its significance. According to Christie’s, there are only four known wristwatches with perpetual calendar and retrograde date made in the first half of the 20th century, regardless of brand, and this is one of them. Two others were also made by Breguet, while the final example is the unique Patek Philippe ref. 96 (no. 860’182) that is the classic round Calatrava case. This watch, no. 3218, is the earliest of the four, making it likely the first-ever perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date. (Another wristwatch retrograde perpetual calendar and minute repeater is known, the Vacheron Constantin “Don Pancho” that is also tonneau-shaped.) The 18k white gold case remains well preserved Beyond its intrinsic features, no. 3218 is also historically interesting for its first owner. The watch was sold by Breguet in May 1935 – for a then-astronomical 10,000 francs – to Paul Iribe, a French designer who is perhaps most famous for being Coco Chanel’s lover. In September 1935, not...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Timex made tennis-themed Snoopy watches Oct 30, 2024

Hands-On: the Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster III

Tennis is having a bit of a moment. From the tennis-core revival Zendaya seems to have inspired to the hordes of people (and celebrities, who we all know aren’t people) who descended on Flushing Meadows earlier this fall for what turned out to be the most attended tennis tournament ever, tennis has taken center stage in a way few might have expected even a few years ago. And for all those looking to lean into the undeniably great looks of the tennis world, Maurice de Mauriac has you covered with the latest iteration of their Rallymaster tennis watch, produced in collaboration with Racquet Magazine. Historically, tennis players don’t wear watches and, yet, tennis and watches have long been visibly connected. Pretty much every top-flight player on the WTA at ATP tours has some sort of watch deal, and post-match pressers have become ripe material for watch-spotting. Despite this link, the concept of a ‘tennis watch’ remains somewhat nebulous. Tennis-themed watches have been around for a while (Timex made tennis-themed Snoopy watches as far back as the early ‘70s, or even late ‘60s), but the idea of the on-court tennis watch - like the highly technical pieces worn by players like Rafa Nadal or Jess Pegula - is relatively new. In the context of the Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster series, what we have is a tennis watch in the more traditional sense. By this, I mean to say that the Rallymaster line falls more in line with the Snoopy tennis watches of old (or of ear...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Date Oct 30, 2024

Introducing – The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Date Caramel Limited Edition

With CEO Davide Cerrato at the helm, Bremont has streamlined its offer into three fundamental pillars, offering rugged tool watches for airborne, seaborne and land exploration. The Terra Nova is Bremont’s vintage-styled field watch inspired by early 20th-century military pocket watches with contemporary specifications. The latest Terra Nova is a new take on the 40.5mm […]

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Roger Dubuis Knights Oct 30, 2024

First Look – The New Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table, the Omniscient Merlin Edition

Roger Dubuis, the “Hyper Horology brand” (as it calls itself), has embraced a Middle Ages myth since 2013 with the launch of its Knights of the Round Table series, crafting several métier d’art pieces since. The first edition featured 12 intricately engraved micro-sculptures of the legendary knights, their swords drawn and pointing towards the centre. […]

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Fratello

De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Oct 29, 2024

Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon

Today, we’ll briefly examine the new De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, a thin titanium watch with a visible movement. Of course, it uses the brand’s characteristic spring-loaded, floating lugs that hug the wrist. It’s a lovely piece worth checking out! We spent time with De Bethune at Geneva Watch Days 2024 and saw several […] Visit Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon to read the full article.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Oct 29, 2024

The Andreas Strehler Sirna: It Shocked Me!

The Strehler Sirna is first off the block for Andreas Strehler's new brand. It's a time-only watch with an off-center seconds sub dial, clean chapter rings, and a hand finished dial.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Oct 25, 2024

Just A Minute With The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date

Just a Minute with the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date   Founded in Hölstein, Switzerland in 1904, Oris has spent over a century building unique watches that reflect their independent spirit. Their Big Crown Pointer Date series is one of their most iconic, dating back to a pilot watch design from the 1930s. The Big Crown Pointer Date remains one of the most original designs on the market, effortlessly bridging the gap between casual and refined wear. With its elegant cathedral hands, a coin edge bezel, and a fourth hand indicating the date, the Big Crown Pointer Date blends the past into the present.    As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. Just a Minute with the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date   Founded in Hölstein, Switzerland in 1904, Oris has spent over a century building unique watches that reflect their independent spirit. Their Big Crown Pointer Date series is one of their most iconic, dating back to a pilot watch design from the 1930s. The Big Crown Pointer Date remains one of the most original designs on the market, effortlessly bridging the gap between casual and refined wear. With its elegant cathedral hands, a coin edge bezel, and a fourth hand indicating the date, the Big Crown Pointer Date blends the past into the present.    As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions y...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Lorier Oct 25, 2024

Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph

No Windup Watch Fair would be complete without Lorier. Since the brand’s introduction six years ago, they have become a fixture of the show and a consistent hit among attendees. Seriously, anyone who dropped by Center 415 this past weekend will know just how hard it was to even get to the Lorier booth. The big draw for the brand this week was their latest release; a new chronograph they’re calling the Olympia. In the lead-up to the show, I got to spend some time with the new watch, and with Windup behind us and the Olympia now available to everyone, it seemed like the right time to share my thoughts. Before we get into the specifics of the watch itself, it’s worth taking a moment to consider where this new model will sit in the Lorier catalog, and what it’s doing there. The short answer is that the Lorier Olympia is taking the place of the immensely popular Lorier Gemini. That watch, which was first unveiled at Windup Watch Fair in New York City a full five years ago, was a mid-century inspired bi-compax chronograph powered by the Seagull ST19 hand-wound movement. $899 Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph Case Stainless Steel Movement SII NE88 Dial White Lume Yes Lens Acrylic Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 50 meters Dimensions 39 x 46mm Thickness 13.8mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty Yes Price $899 I’ve always felt that the Lorier Gemini (and the Lorier Gemini SII) represented a serious step forward for Lorier. The introduction of t...

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Fratello

Berneron Oct 25, 2024

The New Berneron Mirage 34 - My Favorite Watch Of 2024

The new Berneron Mirage 34 joins last year’s 38mm models in the small brand’s growing lineup. As we’ll see, these aren’t simply downsized editions. Each model showcases a stone dial and a new caliber. Hint: these are my favorite watches of this year so far. Sylvain Berneron is the name behind the eponymous brand he […] Visit The New Berneron Mirage 34 - My Favorite Watch Of 2024 to read the full article.

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Carl F. Bucherer Oct 25, 2024

Carl F. Bucherer’s Retro Worldtimer with Peripheral-Wind Movement

In a departure from its usual modern designs, Carl F. Bucherer’s latest is the Heritage Worldtimer. Modelled on a typical 1950s world time wristwatch, the Heritage Worldtimer sports two crowns - on at three to set the time, another at nine to adjust the cities disc. The A2020 movement inside, however, is a modern creation. The automatic calibre features a peripheral rotor, an invention that dates to the 1950s but was only perfected in the 21st century. However, the calibre comes with a caveat: it’s not a true world time complication, and instead relies on just a rotating cities disc. Initial thoughts Tried-and-tested vintage-inspired reissues are often easy wins so they are common. While the Heritage Worldtimer might seem like one of those on its face, it stands out on several counts, including the simple fact that vintage-inspired world-time watches are uncommon. The design is also vintage inspired, rather than a remake of a specific watch, so it has a generic 1950s feel rather than looking like a scaled-up version of a vintage watch. And the novel, modern movement is a useful complement to the historical design. Though the watch is looks like a world time, it is not actually a world time complication. In other words, the hour hand does not move in tandem with the cities disc as on an actual world time. Rather it is a time-only watch with a rotating cities disc that does the job of indicating time zones, but it is not sophisticated in terms of mechanics. Starting a...

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Fratello

Seiko SKX173 Oct 24, 2024

The Seiko SKX173: A Lesser-Known Take On The SKX007 Dive Watch With A Neo-Vintage Dial Design

Seiko’s SKX007 dive watch is a modern classic. Today, we’re looking at a different and, I’ll argue, better-looking version. The watch is known as the Seiko SKX173. Read on. Recently, I wrote about Seiko’s SKX007 dive watch. This was not a review, per se, but an assessment of the SKX007’s role in 2024. The article […] Visit The Seiko SKX173: A Lesser-Known Take On The SKX007 Dive Watch With A Neo-Vintage Dial Design to read the full article.

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Fratello

Casio n Oct 24, 2024

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 30th Anniversary Watches

It’s hard to believe that 30 years have passed since the first Lange 1 was introduced. Yet, here we are, and to celebrate this special occasion, A. Lange & Söhne has crafted four new limited-edition versions of the brand’s most famous watch. As we’ll see, Lange is bringing a pair of dial and case materials […] Visit Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 30th Anniversary Watches to read the full article.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Omega will have you know Oct 23, 2024

The Best Chronograph Watches for Beginners Under $1,000

When time really counts - whether you’re speeding around a race track, plotting a navigational course, or timing the beats of a patient’s heart - you need a stopwatch. At one point, the function of a stopwatch was completely separate from that of a wristwatch. Enter the chronograph. Adding a stopwatch compilation - that is, a feature beyond telling the time - to a traditional watch was revolutionary when it was invented in the nineteenth century.    Today, they are one of the most popular types of watches amongst enthusiasts for their storied heritage and visual appeal. (As Omega will have you know, they’ve even been to the moon.) But for many enthusiasts, they can feel out of reach - mechanically complex, they require significantly greater purchase and service costs. Luckily, there’s an alternative: quartz. Quartz chronograph movements circumvent those two major shortfalls, allowing for greater reliability and reduced cost. With that, here are some of our favorite affordable chronographs for beginners.    Should you see anything you like, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. When time really counts - whether you’re speeding around a race track, plotting a navigational course, or timing the beats of a patient’s heart - you need a stopwatch. At one point, the function of a stopwatch was completely separate f...

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Fratello

Grand Seiko European Limited Editions Last Oct 21, 2024

Hands-On With The Latest Grand Seiko European Limited Editions

Last week, I met with the Grand Seiko UK team at Japan House in South Kensington, London. The brand occupied a space at the cultural center and brought the latest European Limited Editions. The lights were bright, and the antireflective crystals worked overtime, but we managed a few decent shots. Earlier this month, we previewed […] Visit Hands-On With The Latest Grand Seiko European Limited Editions to read the full article.

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Fratello

Breitling Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Oct 20, 2024

Hands-On: The Breitling Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary

Today, we’ll examine the Breitling Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary limited edition. This is the third hands-on review of these special celebration models. The Navitimer is arguably the most famous Breitling chronograph, meaning this piece had better be good! Thus far, we’ve gone hands-on with the Super Chronomat and Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary […] Visit Hands-On: The Breitling Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary to read the full article.

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Fratello

Patek Philippe Nautilus References Another Friday Oct 18, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Patek Philippe Nautilus References

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll take a look at the famous Patek Philippe Nautilus. It’s a great reminder of what makes Gérald Genta’s creation stand out. The watch was first introduced in 1976 and has become one of the industry’s leading silhouettes over time. But we all know that the brand discontinued the […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Patek Philippe Nautilus References to read the full article.

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Fratello

Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection Let Oct 18, 2024

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection

Let the record show that this introduction to the Patek Philippe Cubitus collection was written a day after the official release. That’s important because these watches elicited strong emotions upon their debut and beforehand during online leaks. Therefore, I’ve let these watches sink in a bit before reacting. I’ll run down the specs and share […] Visit Introducing: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection to read the full article.

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