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Tudor Seiko Jan 7, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 71: A Year in Watches 2023 – Rolex, Tudor, Seiko, and More!

Welcome to episode 71 of A Week in Watches. To make it a tradition this is a special episode, or rather, part of one of a special two-parter cleverly titled “A Year in Watches.” Yes, we’re going to take a look back at big moments and releases from 2023. As you’d expect, there’s a lot to cover, so we’re doing the “big brands” in this episode – think Omega, Rolex, and Tudor – and micros and indies in the next. Naturally, there still was too much to cover, so we focused on big launches from Watches & Wonders, what Rolex was up to (they did some weird stuff in 2023, especially for them), and then Seiko, who had a particular focus this year. If you enjoy the episode, please do like and subscribe. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The best way to start the new year is a new watch. Head over to WindupWatchShop.com to check out new watches, limited editions, accessories, EDC, clocks, and more. The holidays are over, it’s time to get yourself something nice. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 71: A Year in Watches 2023 – Rolex, Tudor, Seiko, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

IWC Chief of Design Christian Knoop on the New Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Limited Editions for Aquaman and the Last Kingdom Worn & Wound
IWC Chief Dec 22, 2023

IWC Chief of Design Christian Knoop on the New Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Limited Editions for Aquaman and the Last Kingdom

In a year already busy with watch company/movie studio collaborations, IWC Schaffhausen has provided a late entry to the genre just in time for Christmas-well, for those with $57,600 in their gift budget for loved ones. The watch: The Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month The movie: Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom In the film, Aquaman (Jason Momoa) faces off against Black Manta (Yahya Abdul-Mateen II). What Black Manta lacks in virtue, he makes up with cutting edge tech, from his Atlantean armored suit and black IWC Aquatimer with fittingly villainous red lume highlights. Black Manta is joined by the Atlantis-obsessed Dr. Stephen Shin (Randall Park), who gets his own Aquatimer, identical except for the blue lume found on his model. In an interview with Worn & Wound, IWC Creative Director Christian Knoop recalled director James Wan asking for the IWC creative team’s ideas on prop watches. “So I said, ‘yeah, James, we have some concept studies, secret design concepts and probably nobody will ever see them, but we are happy to share them,’” Knoop said. Working with the film’s creative team, Knoop landed on the design they ultimately used and that both teams loved. “We usually take a couple of years to develop a watch and then James and team got super excited and said, ‘okay, can you send over the watches in 10 days,’” said Knoop. The versions used in the film weren’t functional, assembled to meet the quick deadline necessary for the movie, but K...

Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce Dec 1, 2023

Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack”

Rumours of a brown ceramic Royal Oak began circulating several months ago, and the latest launch from Audemars Piguet (AP) has proven them true. However, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” 41 mm is more than a new colour, and instead it’s a 200-piece limited edition collaboration with American Rapper Travis Scott and his streetwear label Cactus Jack. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is interesting for being more than just a change of dial colour, which is usually the route taken for limited editions. While it is based on the standard model, the “Cactus Jack” gets a brown ceramic case as well as typography based on the musician’s handwriting on the dial, along with Cactus Jack’s smiley emblem for the moons. Notably, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is just one part of AP’s collaboration with Mr Scott. Their tie-up also includes a line of clothing, including hoodies, t-shirts, and caps, that will be available on Cactus Jack’s own retail site. Initial thoughts Although the “Cactus Jack” is fundamentally identical to the regular production skeleton perpetual in ceramic, it looks strikingly different because of the case. Typically I am not a fan of brown ceramic, but here the material sets the watch apart instantly. This differentiation is a good thing since there are many, many version of the Royal Oak perpetual calendar – the non-skeleton ceramic model is already available in b...

Rolex Submariner Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Sep 19, 2023

Rolex Submariner Guide

Few watches have achieved the worldwide fame and collectibility of the Rolex Submariner, one of the very first purpose-built dive watches and the one that established the formula that so many others still emulate. Nearly every luxury divers’ watch on the market today owes some stylistic debt to the Submariner, which remains to many collectors the gold standard of the category. The Submariner’s association with James Bond, which stems from its being worn by Sean Connery in the iconic movie role, doesn’t hurt its case either. Here’s what you need to know about the Rolex Submariner and why it continues to be an industry trendsetter in the modern day. Origins: The Rolex Oyster Case While most watch historians rightly pinpoint the 1950s as the era that gave rise to the modern, purpose-built diver’s watch, Rolex began paving the way as early as the 1920s. Hans Wilsdorf, who founded Rolex in 1905 and moved its headquarters to Geneva, Switzerland in 1919, was one of the earliest and most prominent proponents of making wristwatches more waterproof. It was a challenge that had plagued watchmakers for years, ever since pocket watches began fading from common usage in favor of the wrist-worn timepieces that gained wide acceptance in the wake of World War I. Wilsdorf’s 1926 invention, the so-called Oyster case, proved to be (no pun intended) a watershed for an evolving industry. Its innovative design combined a threaded, hermetically sealed caseback and a crown that screwe...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar “Darth” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 13, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar “Darth”

Since its debut in 2021, the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar has been the brand’s flagship pure-play perpetual calendar that combines the trademark Lange 1 design with a sophisticated movement, while doing away with the tourbillon of its bigger brother. The model now gets a new of platinum with a black dial, a combination nicknamed “Darth”, and remains powered by the L021.3. Initial thoughts The Lange 1 perpetual calendar has consistently impressed with its thoughtful design. The asymmetrical yet streamlined dial effortlessly communicates essential information. And because doesn’t have the tourbillon of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, it is relatively affordable, at least as such things go. As for the new version, it does look good. Lange watches tend to look good with white metal cases and black dials, think Datograph or Zeitwerk, and this is no exception. This is especially considering the model was available only with light coloured dials like salmon or grey.  The rest of the watch remains unchanged, so it has all the pros (and cons) of the earlier iterations. While the movement is impressively executed, it is a large watch, particularly since it only has the calendar complication. At almost 42 mm wide and just over 12 mm high, it has dimensions comparable to a sports chronograph. That said, most complicated Lange watches feel over-engineered, so this is typical Lange in many ways. “Darth” The new model retains the dial layout that i...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Rolex Acquires Legacy Retailer Bucherer, India’s Historic Moon Landing, and the New Observer Collection O.C’s Worn & Wound
Tudor Aug 26, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Rolex Acquires Legacy Retailer Bucherer, India’s Historic Moon Landing, and the New Observer Collection O.C’s

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Rolex The Crown Expands Their Empire Via Siam Swiss In somewhat stunning watch industry news this week, Rolex announced they have acquired the enduring retailer, Bucherer. Both Swiss companies have been closely working together for nearly 100 years, as Bucherer retailers have served as authorized dealers for Rolex and their sibling brand Tudor. Considering the behemoth that Rolex is, it’s safe to say that the average watch enthusiast has a fair understanding of how The Crown operates. Bucherer however, has a tendency to move in relative silence, so here’s a bit of background. Bucherer is based in Lucerne, Switzerland but has a network of retail stores that span worldwide. They only furthered their reach when in 2018, the Bucherer Group acquired Tourneau, a fellow retailer with rich heritage rooted in the United States. But that’s not all. Bucherer has also built a catalog of in-house brands including their very own line of watches, Carl F. Bucherer. According to Rolex, the opportunity to acquire such a prestigious name came when Jorg Bucherer, the senior lea...

Rolex Daytona: A Comprehensive Guide to the Iconic Racing Chronograph Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Aug 24, 2023

Rolex Daytona: A Comprehensive Guide to the Iconic Racing Chronograph

The Rolex Daytona is today one of the most coveted and collectible luxury watches in the world, and indisputably a legend among racing-inspired chronograph wristwatches. But it was far from an overnight success. Read on to discover how the Rolex Daytona went from languishing on retailers’ shelves in the early 1960s to inspiring years-long waiting lists and stratospheric auction prices in the 21st Century, and how some racetrack cred and Hollywood star power lent a hand along the way. Since its founding in 1905, Rolex has grown to become the world’s undisputed king of luxury sport watches and one of the most influential innovators in watchmaking history. Rolex inventions like the waterproof Oyster case, the self-winding Perpetual movement, and the user-friendly magnifying Cyclops lens have had widespread influence in the watch industry, and iconic watch models like the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master have become the standards against which others in their category are measured. All that said, Rolex was relatively late to the game when it comes to one of the most popular sport-watch fields: the chronograph. By the early 1950s, the decade in which all three of the aforementioned Rolex models debuted, competitors like Breitling, Longines, and Heuer (today’s TAG Heuer), all of whom had established themselves as specialists in chronographs since before the 20th Century, were dominant in the space. Rolex had dabbled with chronograph models intermittently since 1937, b...

Breaking News: Rolex Acquires Watch Retailer Bucherer SJX Watches
Tudor represented Aug 24, 2023

Breaking News: Rolex Acquires Watch Retailer Bucherer

In a surprising move, Rolex has just announced the takeover of Bucherer, the Swiss watch retailer that is the largest seller of Rolex watches worldwide. Long the odd one out amongst luxury watch brands for not having its own retail network – hitherto Rolex owned just one store in Geneva – Rolex now owns the world’s biggest watch retailer outside of China and Hong Kong. Though headquartered in the quaint mountain town of Lucerne, Bucherer is a global giant with 100 points of sale in Europe and the United States, with Rolex and Tudor represented in half of them. A Rolex retailer since 1924, Bucherer boasts annual sales of almost CHF2 billion, with almost two-thirds of that from the sales of Rolex and Tudor watches. As a result, Bucherer is the largest retail partner for Rolex, accounting for almost 10% of Rolex’s estimated CHF10 billion in turnover. It was no coincidence that Bucherer was the first retailer in the world to embark on the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned programme. Bucherer will remain as an independent business after the takeover, which has to be approved by competition authorities. The terms of the sale were undisclosed. A logical surprise Although the news of the takeover was unexpected, it is a logical progression of events. Established in 1888, Bucherer has been in the hands of its founding family since then, with the company currently led by Jorg G. Bucherer, grandson of founder Carl F. Bucherer. Now almost 90 years old, Mr Bucherer is an industry legen...

The new A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar and Lange 1 Time Zone Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 20, 2023

The new A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar and Lange 1 Time Zone

Two modern classics of A. Lange & Söhne designs have been given fresh case materials. The 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is cased in 18k white gold with a pink gold dial. The Lange 1 Time Zone is cased in 950 platinum with a rhodium dial. It’s well established by now that the Swiss aren’t the … ContinuedThe post The new A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar and Lange 1 Time Zone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Thai Customs admits selling fake luxury watches in auction including pieces from Rolex, Patek Philippe and Richard Mille Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Jul 16, 2023

Thai Customs admits selling fake luxury watches in auction including pieces from Rolex, Patek Philippe and Richard Mille

Watch lovers are always on the lookout for ways to source highly in-demand pieces at prices that aren’t totally bananas. One potential avenue for this are those auctions held by police or government authorities. These often feature items that have been seized or repossessed, because if an asset was used in a crime, owned by … ContinuedThe post Thai Customs admits selling fake luxury watches in auction including pieces from Rolex, Patek Philippe and Richard Mille appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 13, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar seamlessly integrates two of the most intricate complications in watchmaking with symmetry and classic elegance. It has undergone several facelifts since its introduction in 2013, including the champlevé enamel Handwerkskunst of 2017. Now, the brand has introduced the latest incarnation of the model that features a dial in “salmon” – officially known as “pink gold” – while retaining the traditionally constructed calibre in a limited edition of only 100 pieces. Initial thoughts Envisioning further improvements for the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is probably challenging due to its complexity and quality. The Handwerkskunst edition did it with lots of elaborate decoration. Now comes a salmon dial, something a little unexpected, given the lack of colour across the rest of the 1815 family, which sticks fairly rigidly to silvered dials, no matter the case metal. Perhaps the new dial colour is to add a bit more appeal to an otherwise under-appreciated (and slow-selling) complication.  Perhaps the only downside to this release is that it is just a dial change with no substantial changes to note. But the intrinsic quality of the watch itself in terms of finishing, construction, and complexity is already very, very high. So adding a new shade to the otherwise conservative 1815 line up is never a bad thing, especially when done in this limited fashion. New colourway, but the same calibre The dial is ide...

Richard Mille goes head to head with Rolex with their own Le Mans centenary-celebrating RM 72-01 LMC Limited Edition Time+Tide
Richard Mille goes head Jun 28, 2023

Richard Mille goes head to head with Rolex with their own Le Mans centenary-celebrating RM 72-01 LMC Limited Edition

Richard Mille and the Le Mans Classic have joined forces since 2002 While celebrating 100 years of Le Mans, the RM 72-01 LMC is limited to 150 pieces The ’16’ on the 24-hour counter is underlined in red, a nod to the traditional start time of the endurance race When the 24 Hours of Le … ContinuedThe post Richard Mille goes head to head with Rolex with their own Le Mans centenary-celebrating RM 72-01 LMC Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe” SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Jun 16, 2023

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe”

Having made a splash with the release of the Ingenieur back in March, IWC now returns with an addition to its military-inspired aviator’s watch collection with the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe”. While IWC is no stranger to ceramic as a case material, this is the first time the signature IWC perpetual calendar has been combined with white ceramic, certainly one of the brand’s most popular case materials. Initial thoughts Since its 2022 debut, the Colours of Top Gun collection – comprised of pilot’s watches with cases in coloured ceramic other than black – has consistently been a bestseller. The white ceramic chronograph in particular was especially sought after, enough that it sold for above the retail price on the secondary market for a brief period. Therefore, it is no surprise that IWC has now introduced a white ceramic perpetual calendar, adding the popular case material to its trademark complication. Fans of the perpetual calendar will not be disappointed since the dial design sticks to a tried-and-tested formula. The overall aesthetics, however, are striking. The juxtaposition of the matte black dial and white ceramic transforms the often elegant complication into something sportier and cooler. On the other hand, owners of the Top Gun chronograph in white ceramic might be disappointed that the material is no longer unique to that model, but it was practically a given IWC would launch more white ceramic models given the comme...

Remember that unreleased IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lake Tahoe Lewis Hamilton was caught wearing? Well, it’s out now! Time+Tide
Hamilton was caught wearing? Well Jun 15, 2023

Remember that unreleased IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lake Tahoe Lewis Hamilton was caught wearing? Well, it’s out now!

Lewis Hamilton was photographed wearing an unreleased white IWC watch at F1 Miami in May IWC today releases the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe  It will be available at the beginning of July 2023 While I may be the New York City kid who has yet to get his driver’s … ContinuedThe post Remember that unreleased IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lake Tahoe Lewis Hamilton was caught wearing? Well, it’s out now! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.