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Two Broke Watch Snobs
SJX Watches
Zodiac Introduces the Super Sea Wolf Aquamarine Dream
Zodiac has in recent years revived most of its best-known sports watches, namely the Sea Wolf divers produced from the 1950s to the 1970s. Appealing because they are reassuringly retro and eminently affordable, the Sea Wolf remakes are mostly offered in the same colours as the vintage originals were. But now Zodiac has just debuted the Super Sea Wolf Aquamarine Dream, a special edition conceived in collaboration with Ariel Adams, the founder of American watch magazine aBlogtoWatch. Inspired by the marine colours of Nassau during a 2019 trip to the Bahamas, Ariel’s creation is rendered in several shades of green-blue, right down to the hue of Super-Luminova and the “tropic” style rubber strap. Initial thoughts Ariel founded aBlogtoWatch (ABTW) in 2007, making him a watch-blog pioneer. I’ve known Ariel for about a decade or so and respect him for his frank, accessible approaching to covering watches. Granted, I don’t always agree with his opinion, but certainly appreciate the unpretentious style of ABTW, especially Ariel’s editorials and podcasts. Priced at just under US$1,500, the Aquamarine Dream combines cheerful and vintage-inspired looks along with an accessible price tag – an honest product I would expect from Ariel. It reminds me of another recent remake that I like, the Longines BigEye in titanium, which also preserves the design of the vintage original but adds a healthy dose of modern colour and texture. Notably, it is not a limited edition, and al...
Quill & Pad
Hermès H08 Up Close And Personal (Video)
Our friends at The Watches TV spent some time up close and personally with the new Hermès H08, one of the hottest watches to come out during the digital edition of Watches and Wonders in April 2021. Check out the extensive video footage of it here.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Mido Ocean Star Chronograph provides twice the functionality at half the cost
Editor’s note: Mido is yet another brand that is not widely accessible to Aussies. The brand may be familiar to many, but finding it in store or from a reputable online seller isn’t always easy. We are really happy to let all Australian readers know that we are now offering over 70 models in our … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Mido Ocean Star Chronograph provides twice the functionality at half the cost appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Man develops Chew Addiction, Facial Hair, and PTSD after Prolonged G-Shock Exposure.
Stultz is among a small but growing population to experience side effects after prolonged exposure to their Casio G-Shock, the timepiece of choice for the "go-anywhere do-anything" tactical professional. For him, and select individuals who share his affliction, the shift in change can be felt by others in its wake.
SJX Watches
Seiko Reinterprets the “62MAS” and “Turtle” (Again)
Twenty-twenty marked 55 years since Seiko’s first foray into dive watches, which was the ref. 6217 “62MAS” of 1965. Naturally, it introduced myriad vintage remakes to mark the occasion – not only of the “62MAS” but also other dive watches of the era like the ref. 6105 “Turtle”. A year on, Seiko continues with a pair of remakes: the 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretations “62MAS” (ref. SPB239) and the 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation “Turtle” (ref. SPB237), both powered by the mid-range 6R35 movement, making them affordable. The “6105” remake with a textured grey dial Initial thoughts There have been numerous remakes of Seiko dive watches, including several limited editions – but all are practical, affordable watches, so more isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The result is a variety of iterated case and dial combinations with something for almost everyone. The new models are as good looking as their immediate predecessors, since they are essentially alike save for minor tweaks, namely the woven-fabric strap and dial colour. The “62MAS” remake with a brown “sunburst” dial Each model is delivered with a pair of NATO-style fabric straps that add a bit of vintage charm to the look, especially compared to the rubber straps usually found on dive watches. Although the fabric straps are merely, well, fabric straps, they are special. The straps are braided with the technique known as seichu, traditionally used to weave obijime, the co...
Time+Tide
Three curious takeaways from the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic launch
Wow. If you read my latest Tudor article detailing our favorite rumours ahead of the May 25th launch you’ll understand my shock yesterday morning when the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic was unveiled. Tudor, Rolex’s younger sibling within the Wilsdorf group, has clearly established it is the more adventurous brand of the duo (after all, their … ContinuedThe post Three curious takeaways from the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic launch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bovet And Daniil Medvedev: Relationships Make One Of The Best Tennis Players In The World
In 2019 Bovet made a wonderful catch when the Swiss brand announced that it had signed then world number five tennis player Daniil Medvedev. Since then Medvedev has risen to number two in the rankings and is happily wearing a Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two. Elizabeth Doerr shares his story here.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Longines Silver Arrow offers ’50s elegance with an architectural twist
The new Longines Silver Arrow makes me think we’re due for a strong comeback of the functional steel dress watch. Clean-cut with a proportionate, 38.5mm case that invokes a ’50s Mad Men vibe, it feels fresh in our niche horological world, saturated as it is with vintage divers and sports-watch largesse. The Silver Arrow achieves … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Silver Arrow offers ’50s elegance with an architectural twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Zoom-in with Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid. The most important lessons.
We caught up with Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of A. Lange & Söhne to discuss his last decade in office as the chief, and what his future plans are for the maison.
SJX Watches
Urwerk Debuts the Tantalum Swansong for the UR-105
Launched in 2014 as a successor to the foundational UR-103, the UR-105 was a more elaborate version of Urwerk’s satellite-disc, wandering-hours watch. After a seven-year run – it’s been replaced by the entry-level UR-100 – the UR-105 series will now be retired. Urwerk is giving the model a grand send-off with the UR-105 TTH, which has the front plate and lid of its case made of tantalum, the bluish-grey metal that Urwerk has only used in one other instance with the UR-110 TTH. Based the UR-105 CT Streamliner with its characteristic hinged lid, the UR-105 TTH is all about its case material. A dense metal with a distinctive colour that’s used for surgical implants, turbine blades, and even artillery shells, tantalum is difficult to machine and finish due to its hardness. Consequently, while tantalum has been used for watch cases since the 1990s, but it is uncommon. Urwerk is one of a handful of brands, alongside Omega and F.P. Journe, to use the metal for a watch case. Initial thoughts All good things must come to an end, and Urwerk is closing the chapter with aplomb. With the distinctive hue of tantalum, the case fits the sci-fi industrial spirit of the brand well. Striking and futuristic, the UR-105 is sleek in tantalum. The metal will make it substantially heavier than the standard steel version of the UR-105, which would make it less easily wearable. Priced at CHF77,000, or about US$86,000, the UR-105 TTH is 20% more expensive the base-model UR-105 CT i...
Time+Tide
Like fine wine, Cardi B’s watch collection is becoming more refined with age
Within the hip-hop community the prevalence of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille is abundant. In a scene where competitive flair and one-upmanship is a key component, many rappers’ initial step into watches is to buy “buss-down” watches – whether iced out by the factory or aftermarket. But as this market matures, what we … ContinuedThe post Like fine wine, Cardi B’s watch collection is becoming more refined with age appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
NEW COLUMN - Cheap Bastard: The Breda Of The Pack
First up, an introduction as to how this column is going to run and for that a high-end car metaphor is required. The majority of the timepieces that fill this site can, without too much of a stretch, be equated to wrist Ferraris, horological McLarens, an Aston Martin with tourbillons – you get the picture. … ContinuedThe post NEW COLUMN – Cheap Bastard: The Breda Of The Pack appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy Extreme Hands-on Review
Pros: Love the easy quick change strap systemScrew-in crown and 200m water resistance Sapphire dial and increased legibility Cons: Wrist sizes smaller than 6.5ich won’t be able to enjoy the 45mm case size Some may find it to be too thick on the wrist Some may find it expensive compared to Defy 21 range Over All Rating: 8.4/10 Value for money – 8.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 9/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 If there is one phrase I don’t hear enough of, it’s “put the watch on your wrist”, as that is where it’s meant to go, and that is the best place to judge whether a watch suits you or not. Watches are immensely personal, and quite often how it wears and how it looks on your wrist is completely different to how a watch looks on a fancily posed, laid out and propped image on Instagram. Always try the watch on. Reference : 95.9100.9004/01.I001 on a 6.5 inch wrist However, isn’t this the case today? We scroll through images, each getting perhaps a fraction of a second of attention, and even if we do stop to read the text, it’s a quick skim, and then, just as quickly, a comment is left, and without any further thought, we move on to the next shiny new thing. Before touching or even seeing something in person, a judgement call is made. Reference : 87.9100.9004/03.I001 on a 6.5 inch wrist The Zenith Defy Extreme is one such watch where it was dismissed online too quickly because of a number (in this case the diameter), which many deemed too high up...
Quill & Pad
History Of Ferrari Watches: The Unlikely Story Behind The Cartier Formula Ferrari
Enzo Ferrari liked watches. And as Ferrari became more successful, merchandising became a thing. To protect both the name and reputation of his brand, Enzo struck a deal with Cartier that led to the Ferrari Formula collection by Cartier. Here Martin Green goes quite in-depth with the subject, even raising a holy ghost.
SJX Watches
Book Review: Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul
Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul. By Alexey Kutkovoy. Chaykin.ru; €230 Just glancing at Konstantin Chaykin’s repertoire tells you that there must be many stories behind his watches and clocks – they are markedly out of the ordinary. To tell some of those stories behind the timepieces – and his own story – Konstantin recruited renowned Russian watch journalist Alexey Kutkovoy in 2019. Despite Konstantin being a perfectionist, Mr Kutkovoy had journalistic freedom. “I was not bound by his control, so I had the privilege to compose my own independent vision with some nice subjects discovered, and I’m happy he left that untouched,” mentions Mr Kutkovoy. The Joker Selfie made for charity auction Only Watch 2019 His life and work The result is Konstantin Chaykin, a wide-ranging book that’s both an overview of Konstantin’s first 17 years of watchmaking as well as the myriad tales about his watches and clocks. Konstantin Chaykin is 384 well-filled pages, laid out in an unusual design that befits the individualism found in his watches. Originally published in Russian, the book is now available in English in a limited edition of 1,000 copies. Mr Kutkovoy decided to present Konstantin’s story in two separate threads – a timeline and an evolution of Konstantin’s clock and watch inventions – that presents a detailed history in a most accessible way. The opened cover of Konstantin Chaykin The first section is a chronological narrative, ...
Time+Tide
Why I bought the Bulgari Octo Finissimo: What the owners’ experience is really like
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo is well on its way to being a modern classic. Launched just seven years ago in 2014 and drawing off the sharp Italian geometry of the Octo Roma, it is a collection that has gone from strength to strength, breaking world records for thinness on average once every year. That’s right, … ContinuedThe post Why I bought the Bulgari Octo Finissimo: What the owners’ experience is really like appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Franck Muller Unveils Cintrée Curvex Central Tourbillon
Having proclaimed himself the “Master of Complications”, Franck Muller the man was once one of the most inventive contemporary watchmakers. He has stepped back from the business that bears his name – which is now known for its extravagant style – but the brand continues to have the occasional interesting complication. The Grand Central Tourbillon is one such watch, boasting a large, flying tourbillon at the centre of the dial. Offered in a variety of coloured dials with “exploding” numerals, the Grand Central Tourbillon is powered by an automatic, form movement that traces the shape of the brand’s signature Cintrée Curvex case. Initial thoughts Today Franck Muller is mostly associated with flashy watches like the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire. But long ago Franck Muller himself debuted his first tourbillon wristwatch in 1984 – a Breguet-inspired watch with just “Franck” on the dial – the first of many tourbillons he would go on to create. The Grand Central Tourbillon evokes some of Franck Muller’s history with its unusual central tourbillon. The complication is rare, with only a handful of brands having accomplished a central tourbillon, most notable amongst them Omega and Beat Haldimann. And Franck Muller has made it more interesting – the movement is automatic with a four-day power reserve. As per the norm for the brand, the Grand Central Tourbillon is available in myriad colours and metals – some iterations almost indistinguishable from the...
Quill & Pad
Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234: A Crowning Achievement In ‘Dating’ - Reprise
Since Baselworld 2018, Rolex has subtly been revisiting its 36 mm Datejust models. The two stainless steel/white gold models revealed at Baselworld 2019 were the last of these, and Saad Chaudhry is pleased to now delve into the new and improved details of this popular modern wristwatch.
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: The sports-luxe travel glamour of the Grand Seiko SBGE251
With their penchant for larger diameters clearly visible in the Grand Seiko SBGE251, I feel the need to underline a simple fact with Seiko and Grand Seiko. While there is a lot to be said for the goldilocks 38-40mm case size, I still haven’t figured out how Seiko manages to make my last big diver’s … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The sports-luxe travel glamour of the Grand Seiko SBGE251 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre heats up the green dial wagon with the new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Green
Possibly the most iconic design created by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Reverso was first created in 1931. It was birthed from a practical need by British officers, to have a wristwatch that could survive the harrowing effects of a game of polo. The latest iteration in 2021, the 90th anniversary of the Reverso, comes in a green dial, set to the simple sub-seconds time only wrist watch.
SJX Watches
Business News: Richemont Posts Strong Recovery; Watches Continue Decline
After a weak first half, Richemont’s business started its turnaround in the second half of the financial year, which ended in March 2021. From a 25% year-on-year revenue decline in the first half at constant exchange rates, the Swiss luxury group enjoyed a 36% rise in sales in the last quarter. As a result, revenue for the full year was down just 5% compared to the year before, to slightly over €13 billion. The healthy numbers and positive outlook helped send Richemont shares past 100 Swiss francs during trading, a five-year high. Divergent fates Beneath the strong recovery in the group’s numbers lay a recurring theme: a disparity in performance between regions, channels, and divisions. This echoes that of its rivals and the broader luxury-good industry – characterised by a strong recovery in Asia, moderate recovery in the United States, and continued weakness in Europe. And within the group, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels are powering ahead, leaving most of its watchmakers lagging. Continuing a trend that began in the third quarter, sales in Asia Pacific – all Asian countries except Japan – rose by a staggering 106% in the final quarter, boosting revenue in the region by 22% for the year. Asia Pacific sales are now the largest proportion of Richemont’s revenue at 45% of the total, compared to the historical one-third share. The performance was driven by strong sales in China, both in Richemont’s physical stores and its online mall on Alibaba’s Tmall Lu...
Quill & Pad
Big Brand Investments In Independents: Sellout Or Salvation? - Reprise
GaryG has already written about the struggles that independent watchmakers face simply to survive. Expressing oneself through horological art may well be a noble calling, but it’s definitely one of the tougher ways to make a living. Chanel's very recent investment in F.P. Journe caused Gary to think about the pros and cons of outside investment into indies, and he shares his thoughts here.
Quill & Pad
Isla Del Tesoro: The World’s Rarest, Greatest Rum - Reprise
Ken's search for the greatest rum in the world started nearly two decades ago, although he didn’t know it at the time. He was on one of his early visits to Cuba with a few friends to chase the "silver ghost," a bonefish, when Fidel Castro's personal cigar roller told him the story of the Isla del Tesoro ("Treasure Island") rum.
Quill & Pad
Perpétuel: A Destination For Watch Lovers In Dubai Offering Cool, Accessible Limited Editions
There’s something new in Dubai. Something with the power and ability to bring people of the watch community together. And those who might just want to be part of the watch community. And, of course, those who are just looking for good watches. Perpétuel, co-founded by Melika Yazdjerdi and Hamdan Alhudaidi, offers new experiences and limited edition watches for Middle East collectors and visitors alike.
Revolution
Introducing the TAG Heuer Monaco Titan Special Edition
Exceptionally light and tough, the latest edition of the TAG Heuer Monaco is made from Grade 2 titanium and is limited to 500 pieces.
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Record-Setting Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 World Time
A frequent topic of news headlines recently is the US$11 billion tax bill faced by the Lee family that controls Samsung. South Korea’s 60% inheritance tax is the highest in the rich world, resulting in the gargantuan tax assessment after the death of Lee Kun-hee, the former chairman of Samsung. The late Lee was a reticent but prodigious collector of art, automobiles, and also watches – all of which are either being sold or donated to help cover the bill. According to the Financial Times, Lee amassed 23,000 works of art, including paintings by Basquiat, Dalí, Monet and Picasso. Valued at over US$2 billion, the art collection will be donated to various museums in South Korea to offset some of the taxes. Christie’s mega auction Comprised of several hundred wrist- and pocket watches, Lee’s timepiece collection was consigned to Christie’s, according to several industry insiders. The first watches from the collection will be sold on May 22 in Hong Kong at a sale led by Christie’s head of watches in Asia, Alexandre Bigler. Amongst the highlights of the collection is the unique Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 HU world time in platinum that once held the record for the most expensive watch ever when it sold for 6.6 million Swiss francs at Antiquorum’s Geneva auction in April 2002. Alexandre Bigler of Christie’s While the identities of the buyers of recent record-setting watches is often unknown except to a handful of well-connected individuals (the buyer of the US$31-mil...
Quill & Pad
What Happens After A Watch Is Stolen? Chris Marinello Of Art Recovery Can Help
What happens after a watch is stolen? Many collectors may be inclined to ignore this question as it isn’t fun to ponder. However, regrettably, we live in a time when this issue is even more pressing. Here Brendan Cunningham talks to Chris Marinello, founder of Art Recovery International, to learn what happens to stolen watches.
Time+Tide
It’s here! Aussies can now preorder the new Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 in all colours (yes, including blue)
Editor’s note: Occasionally things happen on Time+Tide that will remind you we’re based out of the most preposterously remote capital city to Switzerland – Melbourne, Australia. Today is one of those days. Friday just picked up another layer of shine because we can finally announce that we have an allocation of the hotly anticipated Tissot … ContinuedThe post It’s here! Aussies can now preorder the new Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 in all colours (yes, including blue) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Is this the only truly democratic sales process? Get on board for the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:TOKI
If you have followed my coverage here on Time+Tide, you’ll be well aware I am a huge fan of Kurono watches. The brand has cultivated a cult following, with buyers such as myself racing to secure one of their creations each release. Unfortunately past runs have been scarce at times, with references introduced in limited … ContinuedThe post Is this the only truly democratic sales process? Get on board for the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:TOKI appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.