Hodinkee
Introducing: Small Tweaks And Big Impact In A Design Evolution For the Royal Oak Chronograph
The 38mm and 41mm offerings get subtle tweaks for the Royal Oak's 50th birthday.
Results for The Heuer Carrera (1963)
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Hodinkee
Introducing: The Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked, With The New Caliber 7124
The first openworked Jumbos in eight years, and my, they're eye-openers.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Reference 16202 Jumbo
The peak Royal Oak hits the half-century mark with a whole new reference. It's a mild but meaningful upgrade to a bona fide icon.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked Ref. 16204
Alongside the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202, Audemars Piguet has just unveiled the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked Ref. 16204 for the 50th anniversary of its iconic octagonal watch. The skeleton “Jumbo” is naturally offered with a brand-new movement, the cal. 7124. Extra revealing and extra thin – even thinner than the cal. 7121 found in the standard “Jumbo” – the cal. 7124 boasts a striking, cohesive aesthetic thanks to having been designed from the ground up as an open-worked calibre. The steel variant with a low-key, almost monochromatic palette Initial thoughts Striking, original, and impressive, the “Jumbo” Openworked is clearly a cut above standard “Jumbo” ref. 16202. It is arguably a more comprehensive upgrade over the equivalent, earlier-generation model than the ref. 16202, given the nature of the new calibre. Everything attractive about a skeleton Royal Oak can be found in the “Jumbo” Openworked, namely the meticulous hand finish of an ultra-thin movement inside the elegantly flat and wide case. The visual details of the earlier-generation skeleton movement that were unappealing – namely the meandering bridges that seemed almost messy – have been eliminated. Instead, the cal. 7124 brings with it an architecture that’s contemporary and geometric with strong, flowing lines, while remaining intricate enough to capture the feel of an old-school skeletonised movement. Starting at US$90,400 in steel and rising ...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 with new in-house calibre 7121
Anniversaries are monumental moments in all aspects of life and they’re certainly no different in watchmaking. It has been no secret that this year marks the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, originally conceived by Gérald Genta and manufactured by Audemars Piguet in 1972, and that a successor of some form was on the horizon. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 with new in-house calibre 7121 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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REVIEW: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 TOP GUN Ceramic
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Ref. 16202
Audemars Piguet’s opening act of the year is straightforward but significant: the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202. Created to mark the 50th anniversary of its quintessential octagonal watch, the new “Jumbo” is arguably the first truly new version of the original Royal Oak, as it contains a latest-generation movement. the cal. 7121 replaces the cal. 2120/2121 that’s been in service since 1972. Naturally the ref. 16202 makes it debut in the quintessential combination of a blue-grey dial and steel case. And the line up also includes three precious metal versions that are arguably more striking (and certainly more expensive). The cal. 7121 Initial thoughts With the retirement of the ref. 15202 announced last year, an all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” became inevitable. And the fact that this year is the 50th anniversary of the model makes it even more so. It happened and fortunately, the new “Jumbo” lives up to expectations. It’s still very much the same – the case dimensions remains unchanged – but revamped just enough to it a substantively new watch in technical terms. And then there are the gorgeous smoked dial finishes, which set it apart from past models and make it the “Jumbo” of the 21st century. Especially delicious in yellow gold The highlight of the ref. 16202 is the cal. 7121. Still ultra thin like its predecessor, the cal. 7121 boasts a modern construction that promises superior timekeeping over a longer period as well as better r...
SJX Watches
Raúl Pagès Introduces the Régulateur à détente RP1
Independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès is best known for the Soberly Onyx, which housed a highly-decorated movement that was originally a humble Cyma. His latest creation however, marks a significant step forward – a movement he developed and largely manufactures himself. A time-only watch with some fascinating details, the Régulateur à détente RP1 serves as a strong testament to Mr Pagès’ capabilities: it has a regulator display while the movement has a detent escapement of his own design. And of course, it is finished to the same high standard as his earlier work – or perhaps even better. Initial thoughts The RP1 is intriguing in many ways. It is well-executed both in terms of technical features and finish. The most obvious element that sets it apart is the detent escapement. Due to the technical quirks in implementation, the detent escapement is an uncommon regulation mechanism that contrasts with the Swiss lever escapement that is ubiquitous even at the highest end of watchmaking. It is clear that Mr Pagès designed the movement around the escapement, as the movement bridges expose enough to proudly showcase the mechanism. But the RP1 isn’t only about the movement, as its qualities appear all-encompassing, as demonstrated by the equally well-finished dial. Despite the simple appearance at a glance, the regulator dial is replete with fine finishing details. While the colour scheme may be too quirky for some, I wouldn’t be surprised if Mr Pages accedes to re...
SJX Watches
Seiko Revives the King Seiko
Introduced just over a year ago, the King Seiko KSK “44KS” Re-creation SJE083 was the surprise comeback of the King Seiko label that had been dormant for decades. Though it was a limited edition, the SJE083 hinted at the possibility of King Seiko returning as a regular production offering. Perhaps quicker than expected, that has happened with the introduction of the King Seiko. A single model that’s in four variants, the new King Seiko is effectively vintage in both size and style, being modelled on the original KSK of 1965. The original King Seiko KSK of 1965 Initial thoughts Sitting in between Grand Seiko and the Seiko Presage in both price and positioning, King Seiko is the brand’s affordable entry into vintage-inspired design – while incorporating Grand Seiko vibes – with its sharply faceted case and, for the first time, a bracelet. The bracelet gives the new King Seiko something of an integrated-bracelet feel, which puts it in competition with more modern offerings, including the Citizen Series 8. But the new King Seiko stands out for its old-school design that’s faithful to the original. The strict adherence to historical design is the norm for Seiko remakes, although most of the brand’s remakes have been limited editions. Because King Seiko a regular production offering, it is far more accessible, both in terms of price and availability. It does away with the date, unlike the earlier SJE083 The only possible drawback is repositioning of King Seiko,...
Revolution
Introducing the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date
Bronze is not new to Oris, but for the first time, it’s releasing a Big Crown Pointer Date in full bronze, in a smattering of dial colors.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Zenith Embraces The Rainbow In New Defy 21 Chroma (Live Pics, Pricing)
The most colorful Defy 21 yet.
Video
REVIEW: The New Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic
SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Time Only
While a pioneer in luxury-sports watches with its gold-meets-rubber models of the 1980s, Hublot is a relatively new arrival to the world of luxury-sports watches with an integrated bracelet – with its opening act being the flyback chronograph of 2020. Now a simple, fuss-free version joins the line up. At LVMH Watch Week 2022 the brand has taken the covers off the Big Bang Integral Time Only, which has an integrated bracelet naturally, but also is the most compact men’s Big Bang to date at 40 mm wide. And in typical Hublot style, the new Time Only is available in a trio of materials, none of which is steel but instead titanium, ceramic, or yellow gold. Initial thoughts It’s great to see Hublot adapt its products to accommodate demand for small(er) watches, especially since the Big Bang has always been, well, big. The trimmer size of the Time Only brings it closer to the dimensions of the traditional luxury-sports watches, which are essentially elaborate bracelets that tell time. Despite its uncharacteristically smaller proportions, the new Time Only is still very much a Hublot. It manages to capture the Hublot style in both design and materials, while avoiding some of the cliches of the integrated-sports watch category, namely a patterned dial or a case and bracelet in steel. The most obvious difference between the Time Only and the typical integrated-bracelet sport watch is the dial. Doing away with the dial altogether and exposing the movement underneath leaves it ...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Only brings 40mm to titanium, ceramic and 18K yellow gold
With Hublot, the most intimidating barrier for me was often the larger sizing their references were typically produced in. Hublot, unapologetically, favours larger diameters as the canvas for their bold personality and mastery of materials. Personally, I felt excluded from the party at times, liking the brand’s novelties but not being prepared to tackle their … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Only brings 40mm to titanium, ceramic and 18K yellow gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Oris Sun Wukong Artist Edition
Oris Aquis forms the basis of a second watch to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the animated classic The Monkey King: Uproar in Heaven.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Gravithin delivers a stellar performance with the ArgoMatic Series
The stars and navigation have always been linked. As a year progresses, certain constellations command the night sky, aiding those at sea with navigation. On a nightly basis, the position of the Big Dipper constellation can even help a navigator estimate the time of night. It’s this relationship, along with a Greek myth, that inspired … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Gravithin delivers a stellar performance with the ArgoMatic Series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Skyline brings a 1/10th of a second counter to a time and date watch
Zenith is well-known for their mastery of hi-beat technology with calibres capable of measuring incredibly fine increments. When the Zenith Defy Revival A3642 was introduced last week, Zenith made it very clear in their assets that it was just the beginning of what was to come for the Defy line – the spark that would … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Skyline brings a 1/10th of a second counter to a time and date watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
OMEGA DAYS: The Speedmaster Moonwatch Moonshine™ Gold | OMEGA
Time+Tide
It’s tennis season and we have a handful of the “Stan Smith Signature Watch” Limited Edition by Maurice de Mauriac for sale at a great price
Editor’s note: One of the great things about dropping in on a brand’s HQ is that you invariably learn things you never would normally. On a recent visit, I discovered a lot about Maurice de Mauriac and the Dreifuss family, Daniel, the father, and Leonard and Massimo, the sons. And mostly it is this: they are completely crazy. Like … ContinuedThe post It’s tennis season and we have a handful of the “Stan Smith Signature Watch” Limited Edition by Maurice de Mauriac for sale at a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Horological Reason Behind The Rise Of The Super SUVs (Satire) – Reprise
There was a time when the walls of many children's rooms were decorated with images of iconic supercars cars like the Ferrari Testarossa, Porsche 959, Lamborghini Countach, and McLaren F1. Today those same walls in the rooms of a new generation of kids are decorated by a completely different type of car: the super SUV. Martin Green explains why in this satirical editorial.
Time+Tide
What Marty from Ozark can teach you about surviving Covid disruption and the value of date windows
In Ozark, Marty Byrde is wearily accustomed to high-stress scenarios. Physical danger is an occupational hazard when you’re a money launderer for a Mexican cartel. But in the third series of the Netflix show, Marty finds himself in a spot of real bother. Imprisoned in solitary confinement by a murderous drug lord, Marty’s captors subject … ContinuedThe post What Marty from Ozark can teach you about surviving Covid disruption and the value of date windows appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR Rootbeer (#4)
Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. This month we’ve been counting down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best, on the basis of the online traffic. Heading deep into the top 10 it’s the Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR Rootbeer at number 4… Two-tone watches don’t … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR Rootbeer (#4) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Explorer's Watch That Nivada Grenchen Crowdsourced On Instagram
The Super Antarctic is the latest recreation from the new Nivada.
Video
REVIEW: The New Doxa SUB 600T Collection
Deployant
Fujifilm GFX50S II: latest change to the dual camera strategy. Why this is my ideal tool.
I review my Dual Camera strategy, and reduced my setup to just one camera. The ideal camera for my use case is the Fujifilm GFX 50S II. I tell you why.
Deployant
Seiko & Zero Halliburton: a new collaboration as an extension to the Presage Sharp Edged Series
The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series collection is extended with the introduction of three new watches designed in collaboration with Zero Halliburton.
Hodinkee
Hey, HODINKEE!: What Even Is A Sports Watch, Fonts From Grand Seiko, And The Epic Search For The Endangered Independent Watchmaker
The watchmaker is out there.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Unveils the Endeavour Total Eclipse
H. Moser & Cie. has teamed up with the menswear store with outposts in Hong Kong and New York for the Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse, a striking creation that utilises the starkness of Vantablack and polished elements on the dial to evoke a solar eclipse. The Endeavour Total Eclipse will be offered in two guises, both cased in steel but with the dial flange, markers, and hands in either matching steel or contrasting red gold. Initial thoughts Being an independent watchmaker that typically does the traditional with a distinct, quirky twist, Moser is clearly being itself with the Endeavour Total Eclipse. The styling is minimalist but different enough to be interesting – the domed hour markers and Breguet-style hands are rarely found on Moser’s watches, save for special runs such as the Bryan Ferry edition. The unusual design is largely thanks to Mark Cho, The Armoury’s co-founder and a dapper dresser with a passion for classically-sized watches with attractive details. His primary requirement for the collaboration was a small(ish) case, explaining its 38 mm diameter that’s substantially more compact than Moser’s typical offerings – doubt good news for enthusiasts who share the same taste. But the highlight is the dial, which is a first for Moser. Thought the brand has used Vantablack in the past, this is the very first time it is combining a Vantablack-coated dial with hour markers. Small but high contrast, the hour markers easily stand out from the b...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Blackest Dial In Existence Has A New Trick (Live Pics, Pricing)
This new collaboration between Moser and The Armoury stretches the limits of Vantablack.
Video