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Le Sentier

Vallée de Joux village; home of Jaeger-LeCoultre since 1833 and Blancpain since 1992 revival.

Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Reissues - Featuring Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Zenith, And More Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Omega Zenith Jan 17, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Reissues - Featuring Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Zenith, And More

Another Friday, another list! Attentive readers will notice that this is our second list article this week. On Wednesday, we put the spotlight on regulator watches, an often-forgotten style that deserves more attention. Today, we’ll continue our regular Friday series of lists with our picks for the best modern reissues of great classics. The watch […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Reissues - Featuring Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Zenith, And More to read the full article.

Visiting American Independent Keaton Myrick SJX Watches
Rolex working Jan 17, 2025

Visiting American Independent Keaton Myrick

The Oregon High Desert might seem like a strange place to find a watchmaker, but if you happen to stop in Bend, the region’s largest city with about 100,000 residents, you’ll have a chance of running into Keaton Myrick.  Inspired by the likes of George Daniels and Philippe Dufour, Mr Myrick produces largely handmade watches in small numbers for connoisseurs of independent watchmaking. Setting up shop this far from the robust supplier networks of Switzerland has proven challenging, but Mr Myrick’s story of overcoming these headwinds reveals a degree of resilience and independence that embodies the spirit of the American West. We’ve been following Mr Myrick’s career for more than a decade, profiling him in 2013 after he debuted his first watch at Baselworld 2012. Now delivering the final pieces of his 1 of 30 series, Mr Myrick has moved into a new, larger workshop and evolved many of his manufacturing processes, so we thought it was worth a visit to see what’s in store for the future of watchmaking in the Pacific Northwest. A later example from the ‘1 in 30’ series. Origins As you might have guessed, Bend, Oregon is not a hotbed for watchmaking. In Mr Myrick’s case, pursuing a career in watchmaking meant relocating across the country to study at the Lititz Watch Technicum (LWT) in Pennsylvania, where he became WOSTEP-certified and began his stint at Rolex, working in after-sales service and restoration. The founder at his bench. But it was not long before ...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Vs. Miss Piggy Edition Fratello
Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Jan 12, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Vs. Miss Piggy Edition

Beware, this is a low-brow edition of Sunday Morning Showdown! We usually stick to watches, but this week, the emotions may run a lot higher. This is, after all, a battle between former lovers. It is a showdown between former spouses, even. Daan and Thomas will perform some post-marriage counseling for a certain Miss Piggy […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Vs. Miss Piggy Edition to read the full article.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Devin Pennypacker Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Jan 10, 2025

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Devin Pennypacker

Editor’s Note: We pause on reader submissions to the Three Watch Collection for $5,000 series temporarily this week to make room for Devin Pennypacker, Worn & Wound’s Media Manager. Devin is a watch industry veteran with a penchant for tool watches, but that doesn’t mean he won’t class the place up a little from time to time, as you’ll see in his three picks below.  When Zach Kazan throws down the “pick three for $5,000” challenge gauntlet, you take it up. As a watch enthusiast and collector who has never felt the need to round out a collection but rather trusts a gut instinct, I figured this would be a fun opportunity to boil down what I would look for given the hypothetical. For my picks, I tried to think about what type of watch I wore the most and what those picks said about me. Looking primarily at the manufacturer’s price, I struggled to come up with a variety that spoke to me within the pricing restraints, often wandering too far above the line. So, I will admit that one of these picks is a pre-owned option. With my shame out in the open but integrity intact, let’s take a look at the picks. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph A bit of an odd pick heavily overshadowed by its titanium, and above this budget, sibling. Despite some contention, there can be no denying that the TAG Heuer Aquaracer collection is an iconic one. Instantly recognizable with a badge well known, the Aquaracer Professional can easily find itself serving as an adve...

Hands-on - Impressions about the Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Monochrome
Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Jan 6, 2025

Hands-on - Impressions about the Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified

About a month ago, out of the blue, Omega released a new, rather polarizing and unique-looking version of its emblematic chronograph, the Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified. Well, it wasn’t really out of the blue, but we’ll come back on that in a few. Colourful, tool-oriented and with a dial full of references to the world of […]

Visiting Seiko UK And Witnessing A Seiko Tuna Battery Change Fratello
Seiko UK Jan 6, 2025

Visiting Seiko UK And Witnessing A Seiko Tuna Battery Change

Last month, I had the opportunity to visit the Seiko UK headquarters in Maidenhead. As a die-hard Seiko fan, I’ve always wanted to see what happens here. Does the site outsource much work, or is this a fully functional service center? The answer may surprise you because Seiko UK can handle practically everything when servicing […] Visit Visiting Seiko UK And Witnessing A Seiko Tuna Battery Change to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR Vs. 116710LN Fratello
Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR Vs Jan 5, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR Vs. 116710LN

Welcome to the first Sunday Morning Showdown of 2025! We hope you have enjoyed the holidays and are ready for our first battle of the new year. So make yourself a nice warm cup of coffee, and let’s get rolling! Today, we’ll play a game called Find the Differences. OK, although that is a joke, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR Vs. 116710LN to read the full article.

Hands-on - The Captivating Beauty of the De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Monochrome
De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Jan 3, 2025

Hands-on - The Captivating Beauty of the De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon

Denis Flageollet, master watchmaker and the “mad genius” behind De Bethune’s creations, is passionate about the “great patrimony of classical watchmaking” and resolved to contribute calibres “worthy of the 21st century” (32 calibres to date). While many associate De Bethune with sleek futuristic vessels, Flageollet’s attention to classical finishings and pursuit of chronometric excellence reflect […]

Longines’ High-Frequency Chronometer Gets a Carbon Composite Case SJX Watches
Longines High-Frequency Chronometer Gets Jan 3, 2025

Longines’ High-Frequency Chronometer Gets a Carbon Composite Case

Arguably under appreciated, the original Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver was a precision timekeeper with a high-frequency movement, the L.836.6. With the high-spec movement, the watch was appealing, albeit pricey by Longines’ standards. Now the brand has given the model an upgrade with the Ultra-Chron Carbon. The Ultra-Chron Carbon retains the familiar cushion-shaped case, but now in carbon composite, giving it lightness and a modern aesthetic that contrasts well with the retro, 1970s origins of the design. Initial thoughts The Ultra-Chron Carbon stands out for its blend of an advanced, industrial movement, composite materials technology (undoubtedly thanks to the Swatch Group’s vast industrial base), and a vintage-inspired aesthetic. Although it’s simply a modest variation of an existing model, the new Ultra-Chron marks the brand’s first venture into non-traditional case materials in the modern day. Priced at US$4,900, the Ultra-Chron Carbon commands a notably higher price than its stainless steel counterpart. While it does offer technical advantages - such as the carbon composite case and a high-frequency (5 Hz) movement - the watch still feels a little expensive relative to alternatives, especially since Longines is primarily a brand that competes in a lower price range. More broadly, the Ultra-Chron Carbon is not a like-for-like vintage remake, which is a good thing. But Longines can arguably do more with its movements. Given that the brand’s enthusiast-orien...

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron Carbon, a Contemporary Update of a Classic Worn & Wound
Longines Introduces Jan 1, 2025

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron Carbon, a Contemporary Update of a Classic

With the New Year upon us, I think it’s time to look at what we want our resolutions to be. For me? Well, I think it’s about time I learned German (Mom, if you’re reading this, I’m sorry for making you pay for those lessons for all those years!). Or maybe I’ll lose that pesky ten pounds. Or maybe run a marathon – but who has the time? And for Longines? Well, I can’t say for sure, but I’d think innovating one of their classic watches is probably high on their list of resolutions – and they already accomplished that within the first week of 2025. You see, the latest release of the much-beloved Ultra-Chron series just got an upgrade: the Ultra-Chron Carbon. As a first for the brand, the use of carbon will both add an extra layer of protection for the wearer, while giving a bit of style to the already stylish Ultra-Chron model. First launched in 1968, the Ultra-Chron has long been a favorite for the Swiss maison. Due in part to the well-proportioned cushion case shape as well as for its novelty as being the first diver’s watch to feature a high-frequency movement. It is with this in mind that it’s no surprise, then, to see Longines use the Ultra-Chron as the template for further innovation – and the addition of carbon is one way to succeed here. In terms of design, the black carbon case is especially unique for its manufacturing process. Look closely at the photos and you’ll notice a mosaic of carbon fiber and epoxy resin moulded together – making e...

A Condensed Guide To Grand Seiko Releases From 2024 Fratello
Grand Seiko Releases From 2024 Happy Jan 1, 2025

A Condensed Guide To Grand Seiko Releases From 2024

Happy New Year, everyone! I hope you celebrated in style last night! As you may know, every year, we recap all the Seiko and Grand Seiko releases we covered here on Fratello. Last week, we published an overview of all the 2024 Seiko releases we wrote about. This time, we’ll focus on the Grand Seiko […] Visit A Condensed Guide To Grand Seiko Releases From 2024 to read the full article.

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of:  David Ramsey - Two-Time Watchmaker by Royal Appointment Worn & Wound
Dec 30, 2024

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: David Ramsey - Two-Time Watchmaker by Royal Appointment

David Ramsay was a renowned Scottish watchmaker and clockmaker who was born in the late 16th century. During the 17th century he was recognised as a prominent figure in the world of horology and appointed as the first Master of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers and watchmaker to two Kings prior to the English Civil War. Born in Scotland, Made in London David Ramsay was born around 1580 near St. Andrews, in the county of Fife, Scotland and grew up as part of a relatively well-off family in a proudly Scottish household. He later moved to London, England, where he gained recognition for his skills in clockmaking. Ramsay was a mechanical genius and produced some of the world’s most extraordinary horological masterpieces – clocks and watches that are arguably works of art unto themselves. Although he rose to the top of his field as a watchmaker, operating from the seat of power in London, he struggled chronically with money, eventually falling out of royal favour and winding up in a debtors’ prison. In 1594, he was apprenticed to the master armourer Henry Smith who was appointed Royal Armourer to King James VI of Scotland. Ramsay’s training in metalworking certainly played a crucial part in his later development as a watch and clockmaker. This required specialist knowledge and training, such as in hardening and tempering steel, and in smelting iron ore to obtain a more uniform steel of higher quality.  He would have also been trained in quality control, finishing a...

Haim Jumps into the Stone Dial Trend with a Striking New Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Dec 26, 2024

Haim Jumps into the Stone Dial Trend with a Striking New Limited Edition

I had the opportunity to meet Zakir Miah, the founder of Chicago-based Haim Watch Co., at a timepiece-related event in Canada this past September. Before that, I had only admired his watches online, and I was especially drawn to the L2 Chronograph, which features a pink gold dial with blued hands and numerals. Zakir was gracious and patient enough to walk me through his entire lineup despite the line of people waiting to chat with him. It took nearly all my willpower to walk away without purchasing one. One of their most popular collections is the Legacy Automatic, a custom-built timepiece designed to order. This model marks several milestones for the brand, including its first custom-designed HWC-1 automatic movement based on ETA architecture assembled in the United States. Each watch is crafted specifically for the buyer. The Legacy Automatic has a hand-finished titanium TA2 (commercially pure grade 2) case with a coin-edge bezel and exhibition case back. Today, Haim is launching a new limited edition Legacy to celebrate their second collaboration with WatchesArabized x OPTO WATCH CO. This edition, named the Arabized (Al-Nimer), which translates to “The Tiger,” will feature a dial made of Tiger’s Eye stone. Tiger’s Eye is a chatoyant gemstone, typically classified as a metamorphic rock, recognized for its golden to red-brown color and silky luster. As part of the quartz group, its distinctive appearance is created through the intergrowth of quartz crystals and al...

Historical Perspectives: The Rise and Fall of Brazil’s Watch Clubs SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin were Dec 17, 2024

Historical Perspectives: The Rise and Fall of Brazil’s Watch Clubs

At the dawn of the 20th century, Brazil’s cities were brimming with energy, driven by booming commodity markets. In Rio de Janeiro, trams clattered along bustling streets while conversations about ambition and progress filled the air in crowded cafés. Few aspirations were as compelling for the growing middle class, eager to leave their mark in this modernising world, as owning European luxury goods. And among these, nothing spoke of sophistication and success quite like a fine watch. For many Brazilians, timepieces from brands like Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, and Vacheron Constantin were the ultimate symbols of precision and craftsmanship. Yet, their presence was confined to gleaming shop windows along the most prestigious shopping streets, tantalising but out of reach for all but the wealthiest. The dream of owning one of these masterpieces seemed no closer than the distant European watchmaking centres where they were crafted. But Brazil found a way to close this gap. Here, the concept of watch clubs took shape-an innovative model blending weekly instalments with the thrill of a lottery draw. This system turned the unattainable into something not just possible but accessible. Spearheaded by visionary retailers and embraced by Europe’s finest watchmakers, the clubs reflected Brazil’s unique ability to adapt global trends to its local reality. Three retailers organised the most iconic watch clubs and positioned themselves at the forefront of this movement: G...

Mühle Glashütte Celebrates 30 Years With The Teutonia IV Big Date Edition 1994 Fratello
Mühle Glashütte Dec 16, 2024

Mühle Glashütte Celebrates 30 Years With The Teutonia IV Big Date Edition 1994

Mühle Glashütte is a German watch brand with a deep fan base. The company is known for its robust and affordable watches. While the original brand began in 1869, the modern incarnation was resurrected in 1994. Today, we’ll highlight the sixth generation of the family now working with the company. We’ll also mention the final […] Visit Mühle Glashütte Celebrates 30 Years With The Teutonia IV Big Date Edition 1994 to read the full article.

First Look - A new Black Version of the Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Auto Chrono Air Zermatt Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Auto Dec 16, 2024

First Look - A new Black Version of the Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Auto Chrono Air Zermatt

Now that we’re in countdown mode for the holiday season, here’s a watch for those with a passion for pilot-themed action-packed watches lucky enough to be wintering in Zermatt. Hamilton’s Khaki Aviation collection, where you’ll find vintage-inspired pilot’s watches and state-of-the-art flight instruments, is home to the X-Wind Auto Chrono, an impressive tool watch bristling […]

Parmigiani’s Latest Minute Repeater is “Mysterious” with No Hands SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier created Dec 10, 2024

Parmigiani’s Latest Minute Repeater is “Mysterious” with No Hands

To mark founder Michel Parmigiani’s 74th birthday, Parmigiani Fleurier created the L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse, a minute repeater without a tangible time indication on the face. Instead, the enamelled, guilloché dial on the front is purely decorative, with the repeater to tell the time on the wrist. But there is the time on the back of the watch thanks to a pair of discreet, peripheral hands. Initial thoughts Among the many complications, the minute repeater is one of my favourites. The beauty of a minute repeater lies in its acoustic time indication, which makes hands redundant in some ways. The L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse takes this concept to its logical conclusion in a gorgeously executed manner. The elaborate dial and case, however, result in the watch being very large, big enough that it loses some of the refinement and details present in a smaller case. Several notable artisans contributed to the watch, including Vanessa Lecci for the enamelling. The movement was supplied by Renaud & Papi, which is a fine, high-end movement but it’s a bit of a shame that Parmigiani didn’t utilise one of its in-house repeater calibres. A fascinating complication Like many historical Parmigiani models, the styling of the L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is inspired by Ancient Greece. The fluted case middle is modelled on Doric columns, while the engine turning on the dial and the back are inspired by the Fibonacci sequence. It’s a large watch, w...

Explained: Dial Making at Rolex SJX Watches
Rolex One aspect Dec 6, 2024

Explained: Dial Making at Rolex

One aspect of a watch that is often overlooked - but ironically the one that is front and centre - is the dial. While often conservative in terms of design, Rolex is perhaps at its most expressive in the details of its dials, which blend classic elements with modern touches, all accomplished by modern manufacturing techniques and finishes. Even though a dial may seem simple on its face compared to the moving parts of the movement, dials are complex. Much goes into making a high quality dial, the dial blank, applied ornaments, surface finishing, gold indices, and more recently even grand feu enamel. A diamond-set dial for the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Unsurprisingly Rolex takes dial making very seriously. Reflecting its long-term vision, Rolex has invested tremendously in every aspect of manufacturing wristwatches, including producing its own dials. Dial manufacturing of the highest quality, and at scale, is a challenge few have truly mastered. Rolex accomplished that with a dedicated dial-making facility in the Chêne-Bourg district of Geneva, located about 15 minutes from Rolex headquarters, where some 500 people work exclusively on dial conception, prototyping, and production. Notably, the Chêne-Bourg facility also does gem setting as well as the production of Cerachrom components like the GMT-Master II bezel insert. In-house dial making has given Rolex control of the entire process, allowing the brand to innovate, even in rethinking the very foundation of a dial, n...

Mühle Glashütte Introduces The New Sportivo Line Fratello
Mühle Glashütte Dec 5, 2024

Mühle Glashütte Introduces The New Sportivo Line

Mühle Glashütte is known for its sporty and reliable timepieces. For 2024, the brand has big news with a brand-new line of watches. The Sportivo collection consists of three models made for sports, the office, and everywhere else. We’ll provide a brief overview of each release. The Mühle Glashütte Sportivo line includes a chronograph, GMT, […] Visit Mühle Glashütte Introduces The New Sportivo Line to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: 140 Years Of Breitling With Fred Mandelbaum Fratello
Breitling Dec 5, 2024

Fratello Talks: 140 Years Of Breitling With Fred Mandelbaum

This week on Fratello Talks, we’re talking all things Breitling with author, collector, and brand historian Fred Mandelbaum. Nacho and RJ join Herr Mandelbaum in a conversation that starts in the early 20th century with some of Breitling’s earliest wrist-worn chronographs and spans the brand’s development to the present day. We touch upon the evolution […] Visit Fratello Talks: 140 Years Of Breitling With Fred Mandelbaum to read the full article.

Vyntage Horology Debuts Time-Only in Tantalum and Onyx SJX Watches
Dec 3, 2024

Vyntage Horology Debuts Time-Only in Tantalum and Onyx

Vyntage Horology is a micro brand established by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the Middle East watch retailer giant best known for organising Dubai Watch Week. Vyntage has so far focused on small-run limited editions, with the latest being the Purity Tantonyx. The 24-piece edition is a time-only executed in a novel combination of exotic materials: a tantalum case with a polished black onyx dial. Inside is a manual-wind La Joux-Perret LJP7380 with a 90-hour power reserve that’s rotated 45 degrees from the usual position, giving the watch its signature four o’clock crown. Initial thoughts On its face, the Tantonyx seems like a familiar proposition from a micro brand. But a couple of things set this apart from the typical offerings in this segment. For one, the materials are unusual, especially at this price point. Granted, the tantalum case and onyx dial make this substantially more expensive than the base model Vyntage watch, but the pricing remains reasonable. The attention to detail in the execution also stands out. It’s obvious in the domed bezel and recessed seconds register (thanks to a two-part dial), but more notable in the finishing of the case, which has brushed flanks and polished tops for contrasting surfaces that are rarely done with tantalum due to its hardness. However, the design is a missed opportunity in terms of minimalism in my opinion. Though the dial is already clean – the model name is Purity after all – I would have gone a step further and eliminate...

Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Plus Dec 2, 2024

Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont

Watches can be striking in different ways. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362 and the Parmigiani Fleurier L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse are striking watches that sound the time on demand. The Bremont Terra Nova 38 “Pink” is a field watch that steps out of its comfort zone with an unexpected, striking pink dial. You’ve seen […] Visit Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont to read the full article.