Hodinkee
The Spec Sheet: An IWC Ingenieur Chronograph That's Ready For The Formula One Track
The Ingenieur's answer to the Big Pilot still has Genta's DNA.
Results for La Chaux-de-Fonds
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325
When Grand Seiko (GS) made its return in 1998, the inaugural SBGR001 model was powered by the 9S55, the first modern-day GS calibre. Now the brand is marking the 25th anniversary of the 9S movement family with a pair of limited editions. The Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Hi-Beat 36000 SBGH311 and the Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGR325. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 has a patterned dial, while the more affordable SBGR325 has a dial with a brushed finish. Both are modelled on the original model of 1998 and sport the same 37 mm case. SBGH311 (left) and SBGR325 Initial thoughts With their 37 mm cases and clean styling, the new 9S pair hark back to the GS watches made from the late 1990s to mid 2000s. That is unsurprising since they are meant to commemorate the first model with the 9S movement, which made its debut in 1998. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 does have a fancier pattern dial, but one that is relatively subtle in its shades-of-grey texture. As a result, they will appeal to anyone who wants a smaller, simpler GS watch. Another upside of the relatively simpler execution are the prices, which place the pair amongst the most affordable self-winding GS watches. The SBGH311 is US$6,600 and the SBGR325 about 20% less. SBGR325 Old-school size The SBGH311 has a textured dial in silvery grey inspired by clouds that’s matched with a blued-steel seconds hand. And the “GS” emblem is gilded in a nod to the fact that this is an anniversary edition. Not...
Time+Tide
The Hamilton Murph is a wrist-bound movie star in its own right
As both a watch buff and a film buff, I love it when those two worlds collide. When we see a watch on screen, it’s usually a brief glimpse, scarcely enough time to make out the model, but sometimes, said timepiece actually becomes central to the plot. The James Bond ouvre is the prime example … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Murph is a wrist-bound movie star in its own right appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Up Close with Grail Watch 4: Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein Black Ceramic Trilogy
Grail Watch is proud to unveil the sophomore release of Chapter 1: Dream Collaborations between Bell & Ross, the brand that broke the mold in the ’90s and 2000s with their aviation-inspired designs, and our artist-in-residence and watch design extraordinaire, Alain Silberstein. Grail Watch 4 is a trilogy of watches rendered in black ceramic and […]
WatchAdvice
The Owner’s Perspective: Reviewing The Zenith Defy Skyline
What we like: Comfort factor on either steel or rubberUnique 1/10th Second sub-dialbeautiful blue dial What we don’t like: No micro-adjust system on the braceletThe bracelet can catch arm hairs occasionallyInability to accurately set the time with the 1/10th second sub-dial Overall rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/ 10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 8/10 When Zenith released the Defy Skyline towards the start of 2022 at LVMH Watch Week, I was immediately drawn to it. Not only had Zenith completely re-imagined the original Defy from the late 60s, but had designed a modern steel sports watch with today’s watch consumer in mind. A great blend of modern lines, a bold design and styling harking back to the original Defy that was released in 1969. With many integrated sports watches on the market these days, it is good to see that a brand like Zenith is taking inspiration from some of its earlier model lines and bringing this to today’s consumer. Now, full disclosure, this isn’t a loan watch for this review; I did order it back in April 2022 and, after a 6-month wait, finally had it on my wrist in October. So this is my hands-on review of the Zenith Defy Skyline now I’ve owned and worn for the past couple of months. And in that time, I’ve really put it through its paces – office work, beach, snorkelling, surfing, trap shooting, and overseas trips, to name a few! How it wears: The Defy Skyline has been designed for wearability. With a diameter of 4...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions
As business ventures, microbrands can sometimes seem a little bit soulless. All it takes is one person with some starting capital and a catalogue of parts to put together an attractive watch that offers good value for money, but that formula is becoming harder and harder to replicate for watch enthusiasts whose collections are beginning … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Which watch brand won 2022? Ricardo picks Vacheron Constantin - here’s why…
Editor’s note: During one of our final editorial meetings of the year, the question was posed: which watch brand won 2022? This then raises the question of what it means to win. Is it total revenue? Likes on social media? Page views on our site? The number of watch spots in the wild? There is … ContinuedThe post Which watch brand won 2022? Ricardo picks Vacheron Constantin – here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Junghans Max Bill Guide
Watches with a sparse, minimalist aesthetic have a faithful following in the modern era, and a number of watchmakers, both Swiss and German, offer timepieces born of those design principles, which are most directly descended from Germany’s hugely influential Bauhaus school of design in the early 20th Century. The Junghans Max Bill series, however, is one of the undisputed trailblazers of the Bauhaus style of watch design, tracing its origins all the way back to 1861 and boasting a time-tested design from one of the movement’s leading legends, Max Bill himself. Here we offer a brief history of the Junghans Max Bill watch collection, some insight into its namesake, and an overview of the modern collection, one of the few to contain mechanical, automatic, quartz, and radio-controlled solar movements as well as an array of sizes and materials. HOROLOGY IN THE BLACK FOREST Junghans Uhren GmbH was founded in 1861 in Schramberg, in Germany’s eastern Black Forest, by Erhard Junghans and his brother-in-law Jakob Zeller-Tobler. Initially a producer of clock parts, the company began making its own complete clocks and pocket watches in 1866 and by 1903 had become the largest watch and clock manufacturer in the world, employing 3,000 people. In 1927, Junghans began making wristwatches as well as clocks and supplied both over the subsequent decades to clients in the German military as well as the commercial market. A watershed moment for the company arrived in the 1950s with the...
Revolution
Wei and Jeremiah Unbox Grail Watch 4: Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein Black Ceramic Trilogy
Wei and Jeremiah discuss the first ever collaboration between two watch industry icons, Bell & Ross and Alain Silberstein. Grail Watch 4 presented a unique opportunity for Alain to work with the second watch brand that he always had strong admiration for after Ressence, and that was Bell & Ross. Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo […]
Revolution
Up Close with Grail Watch 4: Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein BR 03-92 MARINE 22
The Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein BR 03-92 MARINE 22 is the dive model of the Grail Watch 4 Trilogy. Housed in a 42 x 42mm matte black ceramic case depth rated to 300m with a bi-colored ceramic bezel and dual guard pieces for the crown, it is the toughest configuration of Bell & […]
Time+Tide
The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic
In a space where so much history has gone before, it’s nigh impossible to create a timepiece that’s totally unique. For example, just about any dive watch you can name shares at least some DNA with the Rolex Submariner or Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms. It’s called classic rock for a reason, and for every Omega Speedmaster, … ContinuedThe post The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Azimuth Mr. Roboto Bronzo Artist Series
There exists a droll class of watch for which telling time takes a back seat to the packaging itself. And the Azimuth Mr. Roboto Bronzo Artist Series is a great example of this class, Tim Mosso explains why.
Revolution
Talking Grail Watch 4 with Carlos Rosillo from Bell & Ross and Alain Silberstein
Wei paid a visit to Bell & Ross’ headquarters in Paris to meet with CEO Carlos Rosillo and Grail Watch’s artist-in-residence, Alain Silberstein to unbox Grail Watch 4 for the first time! The collaboration between Bell & Ross and Alain Silberstein didn’t seem likely to happen at first, as there were doubts that the design […]
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Meistersinger Primatic is a single-handed shake-up for your collection
Meistersinger may be renowned for their single-handed watches, but there is the extremely rare occasion they release a watch that has two. Of course, it would be silly to assume that means you get a traditional hour and minute hand, as the Meistersinger Primatic instead gives you their emblematic mono-hand as well as a power … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Meistersinger Primatic is a single-handed shake-up for your collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The G-Shock “CasiOak” backed legendary toughness with a radical new design
It’s the Shock heard around the world. No other G-Shock, perhaps since the very first model, has had the impact of this new release since it was unleashed upon the world in 2019. Yes, Casio releases new G-Shock models on a perpetual basis, and it’s virtually impossible to keep up with the latest drops. But … ContinuedThe post The G-Shock “CasiOak” backed legendary toughness with a radical new design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Blancpain Kicks Off 70th Anniversary Celebration With A Limited Edition Fifty Fathoms
And a new (42mm) case, too.
Teddy Baldassarre
30 Best Mechanical Watches Under $500
As new enthusiasts dip their toes in the waters of the watch world, it’s easy for them to become mired in watch-specific terminology that, while second nature to seasoned nerds, can prove challenging for anyone less experienced. Understanding the specific nature of the type of movement powering a watch is an excellent example of an area in which a little bit of research goes a long way in elevating your knowledge base and helping you to make an informed purchasing decision. Terms like quartz, mechanical, automatic, manual, and hand-winding are essential basic knowledge for anyone looking to bring their understanding of watches to the next level or purchase a new piece. In this article, we’ll take a look at some of the most prominent types of mechanical movement types on the market. First, we’ll create a high-level primer on how the most popular types of watch movements operate before digging into a list of some of the best options on the more attainable end of the spectrum for each respective movement type. To begin, let’s tackle the term “mechanical” as it relates to watches. In the modern watch world, the vast majority of watches fall into two major subsets. The first is quartz, which utilizes power from an installed battery to power a small circuit that measures timekeeping by way of an oscillating quartz crystal, shaped like a tiny tuning fork, which vibrates at exactly 32,768 per second, allowing for an impressively high level of accuracy. Quartz calibe...
Time+Tide
The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 - Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith
This past year was quite a journey for my collection, with new additions and trades – as I am known for every now and again. While I have been bad about it the last few months, with consecutive new watch addition honeymoon periods, typically I try to avoid wearing the same watch two days in … ContinuedThe post The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon “Dimpled Dial”
Arguably the most significant Audemars Piguet timepiece ever, the Royal Oak celebrated its 50th anniversary last year with a host of new models, including the all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 and even a skeletonised, selfwinding flying tourbillon. And just before entering the New Year, Audemars Piguet (AP) dropped the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon “Dimpled Dial”. Essentially identical to the standard model, the new version – which is available in either white or pink gold – is distinguished by its surface finishing: dimples on the dial and frosting on the bezel. Limited to 33 pieces each, the pair are primarily for Japan, with only a handful of watches available outside the country. According to our sources, the unusual combination of finishes were proposed by Japanese watch influencer Chronopeace, explaining why most of the run will be sold only in Japan – though this has neither been confirmed nor denied by AP. Initial thoughts I first heard about this discreet release when images were shared with me. As AP occasionally won’t say what drops, the watch was not announced officially, but instead quietly added to its online catalogue, perhaps because it is only available in Japan. Despite being low key, this new release will surely appeal to anyone who likes the Royal Oak but wants the added oomph of a special dial. At a glance, the watch easily reveals itself to be stunning. The layout and style are familiar, but the few tweaks to the dial an...
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Sonatina Peaceful Nature: Wind Down And Relax With This Wrist Zen Master
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous is a watch with delightful complications: an alarm watch with a day-night indicator. And the Rendez-Vous Sonatina Peaceful Nature offers a busy world some tranquil zen.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update
Davey boy, oh Davey boy. Barstool Sports founder Dave Portnoy has already found himself in hot water with, what he refers to, as “watch geeks”. The launch of his watch brand Brick Watch Company was absolutely ridiculed by watch enthusiasts online, the recurring theme being that his designs were unimaginative, generic, ugly and overpriced. In … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Portnoy trolls Crash, Omega teases tiny yet massive update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New with hands-on: #FR2NCK MULLER Vanguard
Frank Muller collaborates with Japanese streetware label #FR2 to create a new Vanguard with the DNA of both houses in the design language.
Time+Tide
The Franck Muller Crazy Hours is a horological exercise in pure, unbridled fun
It goes likes this: 8, 1, 6, 11, 4, 9, 2, 7, 12, 5, 10, 3. No, this isn’t some Fibonacci-like mathematical sequence, the combination to a very complicated electronic safe, or even a code for sending secret military messages via a cipher machine. It’s the order of numerals on the Art Deco dial of … ContinuedThe post The Franck Muller Crazy Hours is a horological exercise in pure, unbridled fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The top three Frederique Constant releases of 2022
Last year saw many brands reinvent themselves, create completely new collections, or try to grab hold of the latest hype train for dear life. Yet some brands doubled down on their sensibilities and reminded us what it is they stand for. One of those being Frederique Constant, who continue to grow as a company on … ContinuedThe post The top three Frederique Constant releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Which watch brand won 2022? Luke picks Omega - here are five reasons why…
When asked to give my thoughts on which watch brand “won” 2022, I feared for a second that it might be a trick question. That’s because, for me at least, the answer is so forehead-slappingly obvious that you’d need to perform all sorts of mental gymnastics to conceive of any vaguely credible challengers. Last year, … ContinuedThe post Which watch brand won 2022? Luke picks Omega – here are five reasons why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: MB&F; Just Made The World’s Most Ambitious Watches For Women
The latest Legacy Machine Flying T is a partnership with hotshot jewelry designer Emmanuel Tarpin (the man behind Rihanna's earrings). And it provides an important lesson in how to make gem-set watches with rigor and imagination.
Quill & Pad
Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Dunes of Mars: The Red Planet on your Wrist
Mars is a planet with a lot of mystery, its red sand surface occupying the dreams of those who ache to set foot on its surface. For watch enthusiasts who want to make waiting until that happens a bit more bearable, Christiaan van der Klaauw introduces the Planetarium Dunes of Mars.
Time+Tide
The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire sits at the bleeding edge of technology and opulence
Swiss luxury powerhouse Hublot has long been known for their outsize watches for outsize personalities. The man responsible for the brand’s rise to fame, Jean-Claude Biver, always had a knack for making a big splash, none bigger than Hublot’s Big Bang line. Since its introduction in 2005, the Big Bang has been produced in a … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire sits at the bleeding edge of technology and opulence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Announces Prize for Independent Watchmakers
Independent watchmaking has been gaining rapid momentum in the last three years. Young and talented watchmakers have emerged to seek recognition (and sometimes riches) in the mould of Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe. Now the field is about to get the nod of approval from the luxury-goods establishment, with Louis Vuitton having announced the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. Conceived to promote “horological creativity”, the award begins in 2023 with a broad remit. It is open to anyone in watchmaking and watch design, and even from fields related to horology. Initial thoughts As the world’s largest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has unsurprisingly been making high-end watches for some time – last year was the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical wristwatch. Following its acquisition of Geneva movement maker La Fabrique du Temps in 2012, the brand’s ambitions have grown, resulting in impressively complicated watches like the Tambour Carpe Diem, a minute repeater with automaton. From that perspective, the Louis Vuitton prize is a natural extension of the brand’s progress as a watchmaker, a way for Louis Vuitton to make known its commitment to high-end watchmaking. The fact that Louis Vuitton is using its considerable resources – the brand’s 2021 revenue was in the region of €15 billion – to support independent watchmakers is a welcome development. The prize money is substantial, reputedly in the low six ...
Revolution
Legends of Independent Watchmaking: Felix Baumgartner
Wei speaks one-on-one with Felix Baumgartner, a panelist from our Legends of Independent Watchmaking Horological Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2022, to look back at the highs and the lows of the last 25 years of URWERK. Felix, a master watchmaker, co-founded URWERK with designer Martin Frei in 1997 and the duo have been upending […]