Revolution
Why Wei Koh Loves the Piaget Polo Skeleton
Wei Koh brings us through a small selection of his collection of integrated-bracelet, ultra-thin watches and tells us why the Piaget Polo Skeleton would be a worthy addition.
Results for The Daytona 6263 / 6265 Era
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F.P. Journe Introduces the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary
Just as the new Octa Automatique is slated to join the catalogue, F.P. Journe is marking the 20th anniversary of the model with the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary. The 99-piece limited edition harks back to the original Octa Réserve de Marche of 2001, then the brand’s entry-level watch. Like the 2001 original, the 20th anniversary edition has a grained, yellow gold dial with a silver sub-dial. And more notably, it is powered by the cal. 1300.3 – but with the bridges and main plate in rhodium-plated brass, just as it was on the original. One of the original Octa Reserve prototypes The prototype movement Initial thoughts The Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary is modestly novel, but will appeal strongly given how it revokes the first-generation model. Given the current outsized desirability of F.P. Journe’s early watches with brass movements, this will be a hot watch. Nips and tucks Though seemingly identical to the original model, the new Octa Automatique is subtly different in terms of design, and substantially different in movement construction. The displays have been rearranged and enlarged to suit the predominately larger case sizes offered by F.P. Journe today. While the original was 38 mm, the standard sizes are now 40 mm and 42 mm. As a result, the date display is slightly larger than before, while the hour numerals are also bigger. Because the date has grown in size, the power reserve display now sits marginally lower than where it used to be. A subtle detai...
Revolution
The Tank Cintrée According to Eric Ku
Wei Koh and Eric Ku, discuss the recent meteoric rise of vintage Cartier prices and heightened interest from the collecting community in contemporary Cartier timepieces, along with a deep dive into the Tank Cintrée on the occasion of its 100th anniversary.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire
Hublot truly is a pioneer in watch materials. Their motto “The Art of Fusion” is not just a tagline, it is a prime directive that drives all of their manufacturing. By thinking ahead, and pushing the boundaries of what a manufacturer can do, they are able to execute things many (if not all) brands are … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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MICRO MONDAYS: The Vero Open Water is an elegant tool that offers a welcome break from vintage
Cool, icy cool. That’s what we have here, in a watch that brings to mind the German form over function we know from Sinn. With an air of indestructability, the Vero Open Water is a watch in which I can see no trace of vintage, or even the slightest trace of retro homage. And this … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Vero Open Water is an elegant tool that offers a welcome break from vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hands On With The Seiko Captain Willard SBDC109 Prospex 200m Automatic Reissue of the Seiko 6105
Quill & Pad
Dresden Semper Opera Five-Minute Clock - The Inspiration For A. Lange & Söhne’s Large Date - Celebrates 180th Anniversary
The 180th anniversary of Dresden’s famous Semper Opera takes place on April 12, 2021. Home to the Saxon State Opera and the Saxon State Orchestra concert hall, the historic building also features the innovative Five-Minute Clock, which was the inspiration for A. Lange & Söhne's now iconic large date. Sabine Zwettler shares the story behind this clock and how it inspired the most powerful visual element of A. Lange & Söhne's Lange 1.
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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther”
First hinted at in a late-2019 interview its chief executive, the debut of the Audemars Piguet-Marvel partnership was delayed by almost a year – and now it has finally happened. Together with American comedian Kevin Hart, Audemars Piguet boss Francois-Henry Bennahmias revealed the very first product of the Marvel tie-up yesterday during a live-streamed event in Los Angeles. Inspired by the superhero who’s also the ruler of the fictional kingdom of Wakanda, the Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon is also notable beyond the comic-book character depicted in hand-engraved white gold sculpture on its dial. It is a more compact version of the historically extra-large Royal Oak Concept wristwatch, making it the most wearable Concept to date. Francois-Henry Bennahmias And just after the reveal of the watch, a live auction took place, with all proceeds going to charity. The auction included several experiences with sportspeople who are Audemars Piguet (AP) ambassadors, like lunch with tennis champion Serena Williams, but the closing lot was the highlight. It was a unique version of the Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon in an 18k white gold case decorated with a hand-engraved Wakandan motif. After spirited bidding by buyers from several countries, the winner clinched the watch for US$5.20m – over 30 times the retail price of the standard model – an all-time record for an AP watch sold at auction. The unique piece that sold for US$5...
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Château d’Yquem: Paired Years Elevate The World’s Best White Wine, Simply Magical – Reprise
Ken Gargett thinks that the 2001 Château d’Yquem is the finest young wine he has ever experienced, red or white, and remains convinced that it will go down as one of the greatest Yquems, if not the greatest of all time. But he was also able to experience something else: drinking "twin" vintages of this amazing Sauternes.
Time+Tide
The top 5 TAG Heuer watches of 2021, with a focus on the redesigned and more refined Aquaracer
There was a curious response to our Instagram post about one particular model in the new Aquaracer Collection. It’s the Limited Edition of 844 pieces based on a Heuer model, reference 844 from 1978. A couple of days ago, we posted it side by side with the model that inspired it. Now, for me, this … ContinuedThe post The top 5 TAG Heuer watches of 2021, with a focus on the redesigned and more refined Aquaracer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level…
Panerai maintains a strong focus on sustainability. This is expressed through the construction and metallurgy of their watches, right down to recycled materials for their fabric and leather straps. Their new Luminor Marina eSTEEL™ is the latest example of this valiant endeavour. Throw in Panerai’s generosity in making their own research publicly accessible and their … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Black PVD - My Favorite From The Line
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INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection turns the volume up to 11
You know the phrase “Business on the outside, party on the inside”? Well Zenith has flipped that with the new, very limited-edition Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum line. The business is on the inside with that magnificent dual-escapement El Primero 9004 automatic movement – but there’s no doubting that it’s party time on the outside. A … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection turns the volume up to 11 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine
First revealed in 2015 inside the Harmony Grande Ultra-Thin Complication Chronograph, the cal. 3500 is a thin, split-seconds chronograph movement with a beautiful construction and novel peripheral winding mechanism. After a brief hiatus, the cal. 3500 has returned at Watches & Wonders 2021 with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Cleaner and more formal in style than the Harmony of 2015, the new Traditionnelle split-seconds boasts the same gorgeous cal. 3500, and because it’s a Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) edition, a solid platinum dial. Vacheron Constantin is on a roll with the CEP watches in 2021, with the Traditionnelle split-seconds being the second CEP edition for the year, after the elegant and quirky American 1921. Initial thoughts I was wowed by the cal. 3500 when it made its debut in the Harmony split-seconds chronograph in 2015, and found it a shame that the movement disappeared from the catalogue. The cal. 3500 deserved to be revived, and now it has been. Beautifully traditional in its construction and endowed with intricate and elegant details, the cal. 3500 is one of the finest modern-day chronograph movements. Beyond its aesthetics, it is also exceptionally thin at just 5.2 mm high, making it a feat of construction. And it is also innovative with its peripheral winding mechanism, which is admittedly not new but almost never found on classically handsome movements. The cal. 3500 The Traditionnelle sp...
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Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Extra-Large Limited Editions
Having introduced several Santos-Dumont limited editions last year that all sold well, Cartier has followed up with a pair of Santos-Dumont Extra-Large watches, both also limited editions but featuring dials that are notably unconventional for the Santos. Leaving the Santos Dumont XL distinct from earlier iterations of the same model, the new dial design features a spiral, stamped guilloche in its centre, along with reflective Arabic numerals for the hours. It’s found on both the new editions, one in platinum that’s accompanied by a pair of cufflinks, and the other a more affordable, two-tone iteration in steel and pink gold. Initial thoughts While attractive, most of last year’s Santos-Dumont models were in the Large case size – except for the ultra-pricey platinum, box-set edition – which despite the name is relatively small by modern standards. The Santos-Dumont XL, on the other hand, is a good size that’s large enough while still being thin and elegant. The pair of new watches are both XL size, making them ideal for anyone who found last year’s trio too small. Though the case design remains identical, Cartier smartly bestowed a new dial design on the new pair, which leaves them looking surprisingly unusual. Though the dial design is clearly inspired by vintage Cartier watches from the early 20th century, the Arabic numerals are novel for Cartier, which makes the two new models unconventional but still appealing. I don’t typically like two-tone watches...
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Felix Baumgartner, Urwerk, Harry Winston, And The Opus V: Where On Earth Did That Come From? Plus UR-103.03 User Review – Reprise
While it was the UR-103 that first brought Urwerk attention from serious watch aficionados, it was the Harry Winston Opus V that really launched the boutique independent brand to the world. Ian Skellern takes a trip down memory lane with a deep dive into the history of Urwerk, the story of the Opus V, and a review of the UR-103.03.
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IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL
Most famous for its functional aviator’s watches, most notably the Big Pilot’s Watch, IWC is going even further with the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL, a highly experimental version of the Big Pilot with extreme shock resistance that was tested by the Fracture & Shock Physics Group at Cavendish Laboratory in Cambridge University. The Big Pilot XPL boasts exceptional shock resistance – made possible with advanced and ingenious engineering – and an eye-watering price tag. Initial Thoughts The Big Pilot XPL is certainly an impressive piece of engineering, with its hyper-modern aesthetic being a result of the shock-resistance mechanism within the case. The look is clean and strikingly legible, as a pilot’s watch should be. Despite its looks, the Big Pilot XPL is not even that big. In fact, at 44 mm wide and just over 12 mm thick, it is one of the smaller Big Pilot models to date. This, together with the lightweight Ceratanium case means that it will likely be quite wearable. Highly legible The Big Pilot XPL will retail for CHF80,000, or about US$87,000, an eye-watering price for a time-only IWC, despite all of the engineering inside. However, it might be a bargain from another perspective – this might just be the cheapest watch with a performance comparable to a Richard Mille. That said, ultra-shock resistant watches have rarely performed well commercially, aside from Richard Mille’s multiple creations. In fact, IWC’s sister company, Jaeger-LeCoultre,...
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You Can't Ask That, Part 2: Why did AP launch the Code 11.59 with so many variations at once?
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Chopard Introduces the L.U.C QF Jubilee
Named after Chopard founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the L.U.C line is all about haute horlogerie, encompassing both complications and fine finishing. To commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, the brand is releasing the L.U.C QF Jubilee, a doubly-certified chronometer with a steel case, offering a finely finished movement at a relatively accessible price. Initial Thoughts The L.U.C QF Jubilee is an attractive watch that straddles the line between vintage and modern design. It is 39 mm wide and a hair under 9 mm thick, making it the perfect size for a classically-styled dress watch. The vintage inspiration extends to the shape of the lugs and the proportions of the mirror-polished case – both the bezel and case back are domed and sandwich a thin case middle, giving it proportions reminiscent of watches from the first half of the 20th century. Despite being a dress watch, the QF Jubilee is surprisingly practical – the hands are filled with Super-LumiNova, as are the indices. While the sector-style design and syringe hands are vintage-inspired, the blue-on-silver colours and lume are concessions to modernity. But the best thing about the watch is the movement, which is an in-house automatic with a sophisticated construction and refined finishing. Even though the calibre is not decorated to the top grade of L.U.C finishing (those have the Poincon de Geneve), it is good enough to be better than almost all watches at this price range. The vinta...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Second Chronograph Ultra-Thin Platine
As of late, many watch enthusiasts have broached the subject of what the “Holy Trinity” really means and whether it still holds merit and relevance. For me, while there are many independent newcomers on the scene that fabricate and finish amazing timepieces, none have the rich and uninterrupted history and heritage that Patek Philippe, Audemars … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Second Chronograph Ultra-Thin Platine appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Carpe Diem Automaton
Continuing Louis Vuitton’s slow-but-steady progress upwards as a technical watchmaker, the Tambour Carpe Diem is its flagship watch for 2021. The Carpe Diem boasts a quadruple jacquemart – it incorporates four automata – along with a jumping hour and retrograde minutes display. Developed and produced entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps, the Geneva complications specialist owned by Louis Vuitton, the LV 525 movement in the Carpe Diem is accompanied by artisanal decoration on the dial. All of the engraving is done by Dick Steenman of Art&D; in Geneva, while the enamelling is the work of Anita Porchet, who needs no introduction. Initial thoughts One of the most impressive watches of the year, the Carpe Diem is highly complicated – and boasts extremely fine enamelling – but the gothic style will be a bit too much for many. I saw the watch in person a few weeks ago, and I was amazed by the delicate quality of the artisanal decoration. The memento mori motif is not for me, but the work is unmistakably excellent. The snake is enamelled by Anita Porchet and particularly fine. It’s extremely slender and its skin is incredibly nuanced, covered in scales and the Louis Vuitton monogram. The tail of the snake is coiled around a single brilliant-cut diamond, while the eyes of the snake are a pair of rubies The only tangible downside of the watch is its size. It is almost 47 mm in diameter and 15 mm high, and feels every bigger due to the narrow bezel and tall, sloping...
Time+Tide
King Nerd writes touching personal tribute to the late Prince Philip
Editor’s note: King Nerd is someone you’re likely to have seen pop up on Time+Tide over the years. Most recently, he was part of our “11 Days of Londoners” series. But since then, he has been prolific to say the least with collaborations spanning George Bamford and Franck Muller, to Dr Martens and even Jaguar. … ContinuedThe post King Nerd writes touching personal tribute to the late Prince Philip appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Introducing the Louis Vuitton Novelties at Watches and Wonders 2021
Get to know the new Louis Vuitton timepieces
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INTRODUCING - The Nomos Tangente Neomatik Platinum Gray 35 and 39
Deployant
Chopard L.U.C: our selection of the best from 2021 novelties
Chopard released a slew of L.U.C watches this year, as it is the 25th Anniversary of the series. Here are our picks for the top 4 of the LU.C novelties.
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H. Moser and Cie. Unveils the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye
After introducing the amusingly quirky Endeavour Centre Seconds X Seconde/Seconde/ last week, H. Moser and Cie. continues with its minimalist approach to design in a more serious-minded manner with the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye. Available in two variants each with equally stunning natural stone dials – blue Falcon’s Eye and reddish-brown Ox’s Eye – the new tourbillon features rich colours and textures that are a departure from Moser’s conventional aesthetic. Both dials are variants of Tiger’s Eye, the quartz mineral best known as golden brown but also found in other colours. Being a natural material with a prominent grain, each dial, and consequently each watch, is technically unique. The Ox’s Eye variant, with a red dial and red gold case. Initial thoughts The new tourbillon is based on an existing reference, which is already a mesmerising watch. However, for those seeking something different from the usual fume dials that’s still quintessentially Moser, the Tiger’s Eye certainly fits the bill. Mineral stone dials were the in-thing in the 1970s and 1980s – often found in with ultra-thin watches on mesh bracelets – and seem to be enjoying a resurgence today. But few have implemented semiprecious stones as beautifully as Moser has here, with its signature minimalist look providing the perfect canvas for the unique natural material. I find both variants equally attractive. The Falcon’s Eye is more contemporary in its blue and white g...
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Introducing the Ressence Type 2N ‘Night Blue’
Ressence has launched the latest addition to its innovative Type 2 collection, the Type 2N ‘Night Blue’, part of their releases for Watches & Wonders 2021
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Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono “Panda”
Tudor first starting making chronographs a half century ago, and to commemorate that milestone, the brand is facelifting the Black Bay Chrono by giving it a slimmer case as well as two new “panda” dials. Available in either a “panda” or a “reverse panda” dial, the new Black Bay Chrono sticks with the vintage-inspired styling of the Black Bay line, while also preserving the affordable pricing. Together that should make it popular amongst those seeking an affordable sports chronograph. The new Black Bay Chrono with an opaline dial Initial thoughts Tudor typically iterates rather than revamp, and so the new Black Bay Chrono is an incremental improvement, in part a response to the consumers’ desire for a slimmer chronograph (because the original was fairly chunky). The “panda” dials of the new Black Bay Chronos are more striking than the solid-colour dials of the 2017 original, because the juxtaposition of colour enhances the sportiness, while the monochrome aesthetic stays true to the utilitarian roots of the design. The Black Bay Chronograph with a “reverse panda” dial In addition, the steel bezels of the originals have been livened up with black aluminium inserts, which provides a distinct, retro-racing chronograph feel. My only knock on the new design is the date – I think the dial would look cleaner sans date, and properly vintage-inspired. My pick would be the Black Bay Chrono “reverse panda” matched with a metal bracelet. It possesses a s...
Revolution
Available in the Shop : Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Memory
An epitome of Art Deco style, the Reverso is at once a high-precision instrument and a diverting toy, capable of captivating its owner and everyone around. No wonder that 90 years on, the love affair with the Reverso is as riotous as ever.
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