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California Dial

Mixed Roman / Arabic numeral dial: Rolex Bubble Back 1934, Panerai Italian Royal Navy 1939, modern Panerai Radiomir.

Introducing: J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series 'Radiant' Chronograph, In Two Varieties (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Jun 16, 2026

Introducing: J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series 'Radiant' Chronograph, In Two Varieties (Live Pics)

What We Know Time flies, and it’s been almost 10 months since J.N. Shapiro launched the brand’s first complication, a limited-run monopusher chronograph for a private group of collectors in the Boston area. It featured a salmon-and-black dial and a stainless-steel case, limited to 14 pieces. Now the concept is back, with the same movement, but with some arguable upgrades in how the entire watch is treated. The brand has tapped tantalum and zirconium as major parts of the watch's construction, materials used extensively in aerospace engineering for their special properties. "Our workshop is located in one of the largest aerospace manufacturing hubs in the world," says Shapiro in their press release. "Companies like SpaceX, Boeing, Northrop, and JPL are all nearby. This watch is a nod to that environment, using space-age metals and meteorite to reflect where we come from and what inspires us." The watch comes in two dial variants, both cased in 38mm-by-9.6mm (8.2mm without crystal) tantalum cases. The dark grey material, famously hard to machine, is incredibly heavy, giving the watch a lot of gravitas on the wrist. Photo courtesy J.N. Shapiro. The first dial, which is the most direct homage to the Californian tie with aerospace, features a Meteorite with a blued zirconium chapter ring and blued hands. The chapter ring is engraved with hour markers and Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9, plus a minute track, but no specific chronograph scale. The subsidiary dial counter has a...

Hands-On With The Versatile And Thoroughly Modern Charlie Paris Alliance Fratello
Jun 15, 2026

Hands-On With The Versatile And Thoroughly Modern Charlie Paris Alliance

Charlie Paris has been designing and assembling accessible watches since 2014. The Alliance line represents the French indie brand’s take on a go-anywhere, do-anything (GADA) model. I got a chance to go hands-on with the Charlie Paris Alliance in two versions. This is how we got along. The Charlie Paris Alliance features a sunburst dial. […] Visit Hands-On With The Versatile And Thoroughly Modern Charlie Paris Alliance to read the full article.

Introducing: The Angelus Instrument de Mesures - Three Vintage-Inspired Scales, Modernized Hodinkee
Angelus Instrument de Mesures – Jun 15, 2026

Introducing: The Angelus Instrument de Mesures - Three Vintage-Inspired Scales, Modernized

What We Know Angelus is bringing back one of my favorite traditional chronograph designs with the new multi-scale Instrument de Mesures. The new version of their 2025 GPHG Chronograph award-winning monopusher features three scales for telemeter, tachymeter, and pulsometer, and comes in a black or white dial, harkening back to early 1930s and 1940s chronograph designs where chronographs were pure utility. Powered by the manually-wound A5000 movement, a version of a La Joux-Perret 5000-4 (a movement manufacturer which is under the same ownership umbrella as Angelus), the watch measures 39mm by 9.25mm with a stainless steel case and display caseback, a single co-axial crown pusher for the chronograph, and 30m of water resistance. The movement has a 42-hour power reserve and runs at 3Hz. If the movement architecture looks familiar, LJP owns the rights to the famous THA monopusher movement.  The telemeter scale allows you to calculate distance by measuring the time between when you observe something and when you hear it. The tachymeter, of course, allows you to measure speed over a distance. And the pulsometer allows you to check your heart rate. Combining all three can be a mess of a thing, but long ago, the watch world settled on this beautiful stacked set of scales with a snailed, swirling effect. The watch also features lume at the hour markers, hidden in the three scales.  The new Angelus Instrument de Mesures is limited to 25 pieces in each dial version and retails for ...

Hands-On Review With The TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph TAG Heuer’s Jun 13, 2026

Hands-On Review With The TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph

TAG Heuer’s Monaco Evergraph may just be the best Monaco yet. A redesigned case, a new look dial, and of course, the new TH80 movement. We took it for a spin to see how it stacks up. What We Love: The new innovative TH80 movement Refined case makes for a better wearing experience Overall look is sporty and modern What We Don’t: The new clasp doesn’t allow for an exact fit on the wrist The watch does wear larger on the wrist visually, so check the sizing if you have smaller wrists The lack of versatility due to the Monaco design. it is a sports watch through and through Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When TAG Heuer unveiled the Monaco Evergraph at Watches & Wonders 2026, it immediately became one of the show’s most talked-about releases. Why? Because it housed a completely new chronograph movement developed over several years by TAG Heuer Lab in collaboration with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. The Monaco itself is no stranger to innovation. Since its debut in 1969 as one of the world’s first automatic chronographs and one of the first waterproof square-cased watches, it has always had a special place in TAG Heuer’s collection. The design has never been universally loved, but that’s arguably part of its appeal. More than half a century later, it remains one of the most recognisable watch designs in the industry. Steve McQueen made the Monaco famous in Le Mans, but it wasn’t an instant hit,...

Arnold & Son’s London in Lume SJX Watches
Arnold & Son s London Jun 12, 2026

Arnold & Son’s London in Lume

John Arnold was originally a pioneering English watchmaker of the 18th century. So it is fitting that his namesake brand resurrected in Switzerland is creating his home city – with a clever twist. The Arnold & Son HM London Skyline seemingly depicts the British capital of yesteryear on mother-of-pearl, but at night the dial lights up with modern-day landmarks rendered in Super-Luminova. The two-hand watch is a run of 20 pieces for The Limited Edition, a London-based retailer specialising in independent and niche brands. Initial thoughts Today’s Arnold & Son (A&S;) has nothing to do with the original firm aside from the name; the watches are Swiss while its parent company is Japanese. The HM London Skyline, however, is a simple and appealing nod to the brand’s history. The use of lume to create an “Easter Egg” of sorts on the dial is smart and sets this apart from the typical landscape dials. Though the dial is not quite top of the line metiers d’art, it is an appealing offering in this segment. Mechanically, the HM is also credible as Arnold & Son’s sister company is La Joux-Perret, the Swiss movement maker that supplies a good number of brands. The A&S;1001 movement inside is solid proprietary calibre that borrows from an existing architecture but transforms it into a movement with a four-day running time. London landmarks The London skyline is depicted on mother of pearl. It shows Tower Bridge on a cloudy day, with many of London’s historical landmarks visi...

It’s Easy To See Why The Updated Royal Is Tudor’s Best Release Of 2026 Fratello
Tudor s Best Release Jun 10, 2026

It’s Easy To See Why The Updated Royal Is Tudor’s Best Release Of 2026

Most watch enthusiasts would agree that Tudor’s introductions during Watches and Wonders 2026 were not very surprising, apart from the Monarch and maybe the black ceramic Black Bay. Overall, it was a year of updates, and they tend to be less exciting. Just as a reminder, we got a new dial color for the Black […] Visit It’s Easy To See Why The Updated Royal Is Tudor’s Best Release Of 2026 to read the full article.

Introducing: Beaucroft The Arc - An Evolution Of The Seeker Watch Range Fratello
Beaucroft Jun 9, 2026

Introducing: Beaucroft The Arc - An Evolution Of The Seeker Watch Range

Beaucroft introduces a new watch line called The Arc. This collection builds on one of Beaucroft’s defining designs, the Seeker, which established the brand’s signature flowing case and dial lines. Now, The Arc pushes that idea further. It remains an easy-wearing everyday watch but brings subtle improvements in construction and feel. The name comes from […] Visit Introducing: Beaucroft The Arc — An Evolution Of The Seeker Watch Range to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar “Pink on Pink” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Jun 9, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar “Pink on Pink”

Patek Phillippe’s 2026 collection is diverse, but one of my favourites is paradoxically one of the least novel: the Annual Calendar Ref. 5396R-016 with a metallic “sand beige” dial and rose gold case. This is merely a new dial for a model that’s been in the collection for 20 years so it is not genuinely novel – though the movement has been upgraded and improved over that period – but it is appealing. The new ref. 5396R is handsome, and importantly, subtly evocative of vintage “pink on pink” watches, which pairs well with its traditional layout. Initial thoughts For anyone who likes old-school Patek Philippe design, the new ref. 5396R is likely the best looking annual calendar in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. Both the colour and style are classic with a capital “C”. Ironically, it is perhaps the least interesting because neither the design nor movement are new, but this illustrates the fact that the appeal of a watch is more than just intrinsic feature and specs. Good looks, however, come at a price. The new ref. 5396R costs CHF54,000, or about US$67,000. It’s expensive but not outrageously so compared to the competition. For example, it’s about 5% pricier than the recent Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar, which is a better watch in most tangible respects, but not quite as pretty as the Patek Philippe. The premium pricing reflects Patek Philippe’s privilege as it has both the status and history to price as it desires – which the brand deserves. But ...

Introducing: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-Edition Hodinkee
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-Edition Jun 8, 2026

Introducing: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-Edition

What We Know Among collectors I know and respect, Chopard has been somewhat quietly picking up steam. The launch of a dateless L.U.C. 1860 with a rosy salmon-toned dial in 2023 was a bit of a turning point, bringing the model—compact and beautifully finished—to a broader audience, and with it, Chopard. Revolution was early to the party with its own limited edition, featuring untreated 3N yellow gold and a Lucent Steel case. For that release, the dials were made by Metalem, which makes the dials for Philippe Dufour's Simplicity. Now, the idea is back with a new model with similar dial treatment, with a twist. The new L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-Edition comes 26 years after the groundbreaking Quattro model, which featured a 9-day power reserve. This time, the same untreated 3N yellow gold dial is made in-house by the Chopard team, while the watch is still cased in Chopard's proprietary Lucent steel. There is a power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock, small seconds, and a date at 6 o'clock. The hour and minute hands are high-polished dauphine shapes with kite-shaped applied hour markers that have a faceted mirror-polished finish. One of the reasons that collectors value Chopard's L.U.C line so much isn't just the quality of the function of the movements, but the quality of the finishing. Yes, the caliber 98.01-L movement doesn't have sharp edges for interior angles like has become so popular these days, but the Côtes de Genève and anglage are still sublime. The four large...

Introducing: The Raymond Weil A.R.T. Collection Brings An Integrated Bracelet Sport Watch To The Swiss Value Brand (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Raymond Weil A.R.T Collection Brings Jun 8, 2026

Introducing: The Raymond Weil A.R.T. Collection Brings An Integrated Bracelet Sport Watch To The Swiss Value Brand (Live Pics)

What We Know Raymond Weil has been on a roll as of late, gaining plenty of credibility with the enthusiast crowd with models like its classic sector dial Millesime, the elegantly shaped Toccata, and the watch-nerdy and sold-out limited edition chronograph The Fifty, marking its half-century anniversary. For its next trick, the Geneva-based family-owned brand is jumping into a crowded and competitive category, the integrated bracelet sport watch. Meet the A.R.T. collection, Raymond Weil's take on a stylish yet practical, take-you-just-about-anywhere, Swiss-made watch.  With a steel case, the  A.R.T. is 38 millimeters in diameter and 9.95mm thick. The case, bracelet design, and finishing represent a step up for the accessible brand, with polished bevels, an elegantly curved shape, and chamfered center links on the H-link integrated bracelet, which Raymond Weil says is a first for the brand.  The round, smooth brushed bezel achieves a distinct design and shape from the faceted, polished cutout features at 3, 6, 9, and 12, while eschewing bolts or screws. The case is gently curved with bevels emphasizing angles at the sides and integrated lugs. With a push/pull-stamped and fluted crown, the watch offers 100 meters (330 feet) of water resistance, adding to its practical appeal.  The 38mm A.R.T. comes in three sunray-finished dial colors: metallic blue, a black dial the brand calls 'graphite,' as well as a 'sage grey' dial. There are two bicolor versions with a gold bezel ...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: the Latest Atelier Wen Perception, a New Leica Projector, and “The End of Oak Street” Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Perception Jun 6, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: the Latest Atelier Wen Perception, a New Leica Projector, and “The End of Oak Street”

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Atelier Wen Perception V3 A lot of the attention around Atelier Wen’s Perception has gone to the dial, and for good reason. The hand-turned fish-scale guilloché comes from Cheng Yucai’s workshop in Henan, which gives each watch a level of craft that has helped separate it from the larger field of integrated-bracelet sports watches. With V3, Atelier Wen brings that same level of focus to the movement, adding a customized Pequignet EPM03 with a 65-hour power reserve, hacking seconds, and finishing developed around the brand’s Sino-French identity. Through the exhibition caseback, you see wind-shaped bridges and blue aventurine lacquer, a marriage of form and function. The familiar Piāo ice-blue and Xiá salmon versions return, joined by Yún, a new bamboo green reference featuring a micro-frosted case and bracelet – the first addition to the Perception lineup in four years. Piāo and Xiá retain the brushed and polished finishing. The Perception V3 is priced at $4,850, with first deliveries expected to begin in September 2026. Leica Cine Compact 1 Of course, we know (and love!) Leica for its range of cameras, but did you know the German brand has also dabbled i...

Introducing: New Orient Star Contemporary Date Models, Including A 75th-Anniversary Limited Edition Fratello
Orient Jun 6, 2026

Introducing: New Orient Star Contemporary Date Models, Including A 75th-Anniversary Limited Edition

Orient Star introduces three new Contemporary Date watches. These approachable timepieces highlight clean, easy-to-read designs. The 75th-anniversary version leads the way with a blue-green “Aurora” gradient dial. It brings a welcome burst of color to the lineup. This version is limited to 1,200 pieces. Alongside it are two regular-collection models with a muted purple dial […] Visit Introducing: New Orient Star Contemporary Date Models, Including A 75th-Anniversary Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12 Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton Grand Prix de Monaco Jun 5, 2026

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12

What We Know TAG Heuer has said this is the year of the chronograph. In reality, for the storied brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds, that means it's the year of the Monaco. With a series of new releases for 2026, including updated versions of the core Monaco collection with an in-house chronograph movement and updated titanium case, as well as tweaked dial design and, most significantly, the innovative and bar-raising movement tech of the new Evergraf, TAG has leaned into the square-shaped timepiece that debuted back in 1969 and affirmed its position as the brand's flagship and iconic model.  So for the Formula 1 Louis Vuitton Grand Prix de Monaco 2026 this weekend, it shouldn't be a surprise that TAG is unveiling a new limited edition version of the Monaco to mark the occasion. The surprise here is that it isn't a chronograph. Rather, it's a time-only jump hour, utilizing the noted Spin Time movement from fellow LVMH property La Fabrique du Temps. It's called the TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12, and it is certainly a unique and unprecedented interpretation of the mighty Monaco.  Measuring 40 millimeters in diameter, the brushed case is made of grade 5 titanium, with the crown on the right rather than the left, which is now obligatory on the Monaco chronograph. It features a sapphire crystal on both sides, meaning the skeletonized case is effectively transparent outside of the dial architecture at the center.  The design inspiration here is a 12-cylinder combustion motor, and the ...

Introducing: MING And J.N. Shapiro Team Up For The 37.06 Lightning Hodinkee
Massena Lab Jun 5, 2026

Introducing: MING And J.N. Shapiro Team Up For The 37.06 Lightning

What We Know When Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro teamed up in 2024 to launch the Alternative Horological Alliance, they did so with a product: a "universal" tantalum bracelet. But I've been waiting to see if the AHA (now including Fears and Massena LAB) would team up in other ways. Today, Ming and J.N. Shapiro announce the 37.06 "Lightning," which blends the dial work Shapiro's team is known for with Ming's signature design language into something that's both new yet familiar. It's not a trick of the light. The dial is really that striking (no pun intended, I promise). Each dial is made from grade-2 titanium and hand-guillochéd in Los Angeles through engine-turning on a traditional rose-engine lathe to create a pattern called "Lightning guilloché." It's a pattern J.N. Shapiro hasn't used on a wristwatch before. The dials are then shipped to Kuala Lumpur, where Ming Thein himself hand-colors each dial by heat-staining it with a butane torch.  It's not as easy as just sticking a torch on a dial. A time too long or too short by even a few seconds, and the color might be uneven. Even if you do it right, the final result might still fail because the guilloché process exposes variations in titanium's crystalline structure. Only one in three dials works out. The dial is still very Ming, as is the rest of the watch, with the flared lugs and engraved crystal that's filled with HyCeram luminous indices. The hands have Super-LumiNova X1. The case is 38mm in diameter, 10.9mm in t...

First Look - The New Laps Studio Arche, A New Direction for the Parisian Brand Monochrome
Jun 4, 2026

First Look - The New Laps Studio Arche, A New Direction for the Parisian Brand

Over the past few years, Paris-based brand Laps has been offering watches built around graphic design and artistic expression. Collections such as Signature Art Print presented affordable quartz-powered references with fun dial designs inspired by architecture, photography, illustration and contemporary culture. The emphasis was always on visual storytelling rather than traditional watchmaking. Now the brand […]

Introducing: Girard-Perregaux Introduces Four New Laureato Models In 36mm And 39mm (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Four New Laureato Jun 4, 2026

Introducing: Girard-Perregaux Introduces Four New Laureato Models In 36mm And 39mm (Live Pics)

What We Know Last September, Girard-Perregaux released the Laureato Fifty, a 200-piece limited edition marking the collection's 50th anniversary. Continuing to build on that, the La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture has announced four new Laureato references today, in 36mm and 39mm sizes. All four share the same octagonal case and GP4800 movement—the 39mm options are a rose gold-toned 18k dial with Clous de Paris motif and date display, and a deep blue in-house enamel dial over the same pattern. The 36mm gets the same rose gold-toned dial minus the date, and a silver-toned Clous de Paris dial with a gem-set bezel carrying 64 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approximately 0.55 carats. Everything comes on a steel integrated bracelet with a triple-folding clasp and 4mm micro-adjustment. Water resistance is 150 meters. The GP4800, first introduced last year, is an automatic movement running at 4 Hz with a 60-hour power reserve. Its architecture draws from GP's Three Bridges lineage, with the balance bridge crafted in rose gold. All four are available now, with pricing as follows: the 39mm blue enamel is $24,500; the 39mm rose gold-toned dial is $23,100; the 36mm rose gold-toned dial is $23,100; and the 36mm diamond-set is $24,200. What We Think When I covered the Laureato Fifty last October, my main critique was that GP had only offered a grey dial. That's now been addressed, with the brand offering a variety of options. Another improvement worth noting: the two-tone bracelet has be...

Win an $800 Prize Pack From Iron and Resin Worn & Wound
Jun 3, 2026

Win an $800 Prize Pack From Iron and Resin

Iron & Resin makes garments built for the long haul, inspired by the workwear that helped shape America and the gear made to enjoy the ride. Based in Ventura, California, Iron & Resin is for people who expect more from their clothing and value the stories that come with a life well lived. And if you enter this month’s giveaway you could make a strong bond with a whole lot of their goods this summer.

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 "Bumblebee" Hodinkee
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Jun 3, 2026

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 "Bumblebee"

What We Know There's a new Tudor chronograph in town, and guess what, it's smaller. After kicking off the format in 41mm back in 2017, Tudor has now downsized the brand's dive/drive chronograph design to a new 39mm case width. The new Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 "Bumblebee" sports a bright and vivid yellow dial with black counters, giving the new reference (79310N) a link to the preceding Pink and Flamingo Blue versions of the Black Bay Chronograph.  We can get to the dial in a moment, but for a smaller take on any Tudor, let's start with millimeters. The new Black Bay Chronograph 39 measures 39mm wide, 13.1mm thick, and 47mm lug-to-lug. Compare that to 41 x 14.4 x 49.9 of the current 41mm model, be it white, black, blue, black & gold, pink, or flamingo. Water resistance remains at 200m with screw-down crowns for the chronograph controls, and that bright yellow dial is framed by a fixed tachymeter scale rendered in black aluminum.  On to the dial, which is colored a bright and punchy yellow as a nod to the brand's "Tiger" chronographs of the 1990s. The markers and hands have black surrounds, and the water resistance is shown in red (as it is on the Black Bay Chrono 39's larger counterparts). Tudor also notes that the snowflake hands have been redesigned to aid in chronograph legibility. While I have yet to measure more accurately, if you compare the reach of the hour hand toward the 60 marker on the running seconds subdial, it appears shorter than in the 41mm models.  Tic...