Deployant
Jaquet Droz: the brand values and expertise. Invitation to JD exhibition within.
Jaquet Droz: we explore the values of the brand. Through three of its eight codes, viz the Grande Second, Automata, and Ateliers d’Art.
Results for Grand Feu Enamel
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Deployant
Deployant
Pre-Baselworld New Release: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367
Pre-Baselworld New Release from Breguet: the mechanical poetry Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 with marvellous "Grand Feu" dial.
Deployant
Pre-SIHH releases: Ulysse Nardin with three novelties
Ulysse Nardin releases three novelties ahead of SIHH: viz the Marine Grand Feu Tourbillon, the Marine Torpilleur Military and Classico Grand Feu.
Fratello
Maen Kick-Starts Its Boutique Exclusive Series With A New Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin
Maen has been gracing us with a string of interesting new releases over the past few months. First, the Swedish brand with Dutch roots released the updated Hudson 38 MK5. After that, Maen continued its partnership with Nico Leonard with the Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin. And last month, I reviewed the refreshed Hudson GMT MKII. Today, […] Visit Maen Kick-Starts Its Boutique Exclusive Series With A New Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The Maen Hudson 38 GMT MKII, A Compact Traveller’s Watch with Vintage Flair
Over the past few years, Stockholm-based brand Maen has delivered thoughtfully designed watches with strong selling points. Models such as the integrated-bracelet Manhattan Ultra-Thin and the recent Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin have shown the brand’s growing confidence beyond its early vintage-inspired sports watches. Still, collections like the Hudson remain central to Maen’s identity, offering compact proportions, […]
Fratello
The UR-10 Spacemeter Is the Most Traditional Urwerk Yet… Sort Of
Calling an Urwerk traditional feels a bit ridiculous, but here we are. The new UR-10 Spacemeter gets closer to that territory than just about anything the brand has done before. And yes, we did get a traditional Urwerk before we got Grand Theft Auto VI. Sure, Urwerk has used hands in pieces like the EMC […] Visit The UR-10 Spacemeter Is the Most Traditional Urwerk Yet… Sort Of to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The New ZRC Grands Fonds MN64 Titanium Editions, in Full Titanium and Titanium Rubber
Founded in 1904 in Geneva, ZRC first specialised in bracelets and waterproof cases before entering the world of professional dive watches in the late 1950s. The big change came when ZRC was contracted by the French Navy and created the Grands Fonds line, robust, highly engineered instruments designed for underwater use. Defined by their unconventional […]
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Geneva Auction Preview
The spring auction season gets underway in Geneva in just a few days. On episode 39 of the SJX Podcast, we look at some of the top lots that caught our attention at Phillips, Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Antiquorum, including a cloisonné enamel Patek Philippe worldtime ref. 2523, an Akrivia AK-06, and several notable pocket watches from names like Frodsham, Kullberg, Ditisheim, Patek Philippe, and A. Lange & Söhne. Auction dates (in order): Phillips: May 9 & 10 Antiquorum: May 9 & 10 Sotheby’s: May 10 Christie’s: May 11 & 12 Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Silver-Toned Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5236P
Widely regarded as a technical and aesthetic masterpiece, Patek Philippe’s In-Line Perpetual Calendar returned in grand form at Watches & Wonders this year, alongside dozens of other new watches, in platinum with a silver dial. Displaying the day, date and month on a single line in a panoramic aperture at noon, few perpetual calendars can […]
SJX Watches
Rolex Enamels the Daytona
This year’s Watches & Wonders got off with a strong start. Rolex unveiled a number of new models, with a strong accent on novel materials and precious metals. A first for the sporty landmark chronograph, the new Cosmograph Daytona comes with an enamelled dial. Initial thoughts Rolex is known in modern times for their mastery of both industrialised mechanical watchmaking and sound material science. The new Daytona is a product of the latter - it benefits from a new sort of ceramic bezel and notably a white enamel dial done a bit differently. At first sight, the new model reminds of the “Porcelain” Zenith-powered Daytonas. A sought-after configuration of pre-2000 Daytonas, the “Porcelain” was nicknamed as such due to the glossy finished white dial, which carried some resemblance to classic porcelain. Among Rolex’s most beloved models, the Daytona has seen a fair share of makeovers over the years. Most special editions took advantage of the motorsport heritage of the chronograph and others added gems and precious alloys to the mix. The main selling point of this latest Daytona configuration is the enamel dial - a classic element which doesn’t normally connect to Rolex or to sports watches in general. What Rolex successfully did was raise the appeal of the Daytona beyond just a sports chronograph, without resorting to any loud gem setting or full precious metal construction. Instead, the brand opted for a quiet (but modern) enamel and a new bezel configurat...
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Watches & Wonders Wish List
Watches & Wonders is less than a month away, so for episode 32 of the SJX Podcast we’re talking about what we’d want to see from some of the major brands like Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko, and Tudor. It’s always difficult to make predictions, and the best releases from every year are usually a surprise, but Andrew put together a few picks that we believe would be crowd-pleasers, were they to be released. SJX and Brandon also discuss the latest minute repeater from Girard-Perregaux, and SJX’s own sold-out collaboration with Habring²: the Chrono-Felix Medicus chronograph. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Teddy Baldassarre
Credor Eichi II Review: High-End Minimalist Elegance from Japan
You’ve heard of Seiko. By now, you’ve heard of Grand Seiko. But Credor, for many enthusiasts outside of Japan, remains mostly a mystery, despite its connection to both. But for those who are aware of Credor, it represents a Holy Grail of high-horological craftsmanship worthy of its venerated designation as “Japan’s Patek Philippe,” and perhaps no single timepiece represents its signature balance of technical complexity and sublime simplicity of design than the Credor Eichi II. [toc-section heading="Credor History"] The legend of Credor began in 1974, when it was launched as a luxury offshoot of parent brand Seiko, initially to produce exclusively precious-metal watches. The name, which became official in the 1980s, is a Japanified version of the French phrase "Crêt D'or," which translates as “pinnacle of gold.” This lofty claim is visualized in the now-iconic triple-peaked logo capped by three stars. Throughout the ‘90s, Credor watches (like Grand Seiko watches, before that sub-brand’s emergence as a separate, independent brand in 2017), were co-branded, with both the Credor and Seiko logos on their dials. Also like Grand Seiko (the first of which was made way back in 1960), Credor products were sold only exclusively in Japan. In the early 2000s, well ahead of Grand Seiko’s more famous coming-out party, Credor became a standalone brand, hosting all of the Japanese watchmaking giant’s forays into haute horlogerie as well as some very impressive hi...
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – A New Chapter In Formula 1 Is Here, As We Look Ahead At The 2026 Season
In just a week’s time, the madness that is the 2026 Formula 1 season will kick off in Melbourne with the Australian Grand Prix serving as the opening event of 24 rounds of racing. And this year it’s really anyone’s guess as to what’s going to happen over the 24-race-long season. We have very few […]
Worn & Wound
The Dawn of Heuer Dive Watches: How A House of Chronographs Saved Itself By Embracing The Depths
Few other watchmakers enjoyed as much success and cachet as Heuer, especially during the fervent 1960s and 1970s. Not only had it launched one of the world’s first automatic chronographs, but it pushed the envelope on modern design with midcentury-cool chronographs like the uniquely square Monaco. Heuer was riding high on the glamor of Grand Prix: the Heuer shield was as indelible to the backdrops of Monza and Le Mans as Ferrari, Porsche, and McLaren themselves as the official timekeeper of Formula One. But, inevitably, the quartz revolution came for Heuer. Jack Heuer was the third-generation CEO of the company that bore his name, and he had been a savvy marketer, personally hawking chronographs to drivers like Jo Siffert and Nikki Lauda. By the 1980s, however, he found himself backed into a corner, and in 1982, he was forced to sell the company to Piaget and Lemania-a humiliating low point in his life, as he recounted in his autobiography. Yet, before he departed, he gave Heuer one saving grace. In 1979, he commissioned Heuer’s first dive watch, the Professional Series. At a trade show Jack had overheard a brief conversation about the unreliability of existing dive watches, and he aimed to emulate Rolex’s success with the Submariner and Sea-Dweller. (Incidentally, Rolex owned half of Heuer’s stock market shares, and nearly took over the company around this time.) Photo by Blake Rong Heuer had spent the decade building an electronic timing division, which b...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s 150 Heritage is a Universal Cultural Calendar
Audemars Piguet celebrated 150 years of existence in 2025, but its celebrations have continued into the new year with the 150 Heritage Pocket Watch. While many large ultra-complicated pocket watches are exercises in nostalgia, the 150 Heritage is a modern marvel of micro-mechanical engineering with never-before-seen functionality inside a surprisingly compact 50 mm case. Initial thoughts Few brands can match Audemars Piguet’s track record of producing Grand Complication pocket watches, but the 150 Heritage surprises by adapting a calibre originally intended for the wrist. A complicated pocket watch with a simple name, the 150 Heritage is built around the cal. 1150, a newly developed hand-wound movement that adapts the architecture of the ambitious cal. 1000 developed for the Code 11.59 Universelle, and as such it includes past RD-series innovations. That said, the differences between the Universelle and the 150 Heritage are quite significant, thanks to an intriguing new feature: a hinged mechanical calculator, isolated from the movement. The intricate system is housed inside the case back and allows the user to effortlessly cycle through dates across any year to be able to read a surprising number of culturally-relevant dates based on lunar, solar and lunisolar cycles. The device feels a bit like a time machine, as the lucky owner can go into the past or look into the future and find out the exact dates of Catholic Easter, Ramadan, Equinoxes and many others, along with...
Fratello
Who Was Raymond Weil? Fratello Talked To His Grandson To Learn More About The Brand’s Founder
He might not have been a watchmaker by training, but Raymond Weil (1926–2014) did start an eponymous watch brand. Remarkably, he did so at the age of 50 in 1976. The timing is defiant. Cheap quartz watches were already wreaking havoc on the Swiss watch industry, and a man in his 50s, especially back then, […] Visit Who Was Raymond Weil? Fratello Talked To His Grandson To Learn More About The Brand’s Founder to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hublot Honours Hardcourt GOAT Novak Djokovic with a Big Bang Tourbillon
Celebrating the career of Serbian tennis star Novak Djokovic, Hublot has gone to astonishing lengths to infuse the Big Bang Tourbillon Novak Djokovic GOAT Edition with clever and amusing tennis-related touches. From the case material to the shape of the tennis ball-inspired screw heads, few details were overlooked, making it a worthy tribute to the 24-time Grand Slam champion considered by many to be the greatest of all time. Available in three different colours, each inspired by a different tennis surface, the Big Bang GOAT is not (yet) a limited edition, since production volume is tied directly to the number of wins Mr Djokovic racks up on each surface. Today that number stands at 101 across all three versions, but this will probably increase little by little until his retirement. Initial thoughts Many large luxury brands maintain a stable of superstar athletes as ambassadors, and most also produce limited edition watches in their names. This practice has been around long enough to seem commonplace, but few brands have taken to the task with the ambition and creativity evident in the Big Bang GOAT. While the watch will naturally appeal most to deep-pocketed fans of Novak Djokovic, the tennis theme is fairly subtle, at least on the front. In other words, it’s a good looking watch in its own right, and might also appeal to fans of Hublot with only a passing interest in tennis. The 44 mm Big Bang case is a blend of advanced composites, some infused with the tennis star...
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Complications
Episode 22 of the SJX Podcast looks back at the complicated watches that emerged in 2025, a banner year that saw major brands deliver ambitious and record-setting complications. Several anniversaries, including Vacheron Constantin’s 270th and Audemars Piguet’s 150th, resulted in inspired releases. Big brands delivered big hits, from Lange’s black enamel minute repeater perpetual calendar to Blancpain’s Grande Double Sonnerie, which feature a four-note melody composed by Kiss drummer Eric Singer. For its part, Chopard finally gave its sapphire gongs the platform they always deserved with the Grand Strike, the brand’s first-ever grande sonnerie. And while Audemars Piguet’s big anniversary was headlined by the RD#5, the brand’s crown-operated perpetual calendar was another important addition to the field of complications this year. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Atelier Wen x Revolution Ancestra Yao
Atelier Wen has spent the past few years rewriting what “Made in China” can mean in watchmaking. Founded in 2018 by Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, the brand builds its pieces around Chinese crafts and culture (grand feu enamelling, guilloché, and case finishing) while partnering with serious movement makers. With the Ancestra line, introduced with […]
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer celebrates Ayrton Senna’s enduring legacy with a pair of new Senna-inspired Formula 1 Chronographs
TAG Heuer honours 3-time F1 world champ Ayrton Senna with two chronographs, just in time for the 2025 São Paulo Grand Prix.The post TAG Heuer celebrates Ayrton Senna’s enduring legacy with a pair of new Senna-inspired Formula 1 Chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly (Incl. Video)
On the eve of the 2025 Singapore Grand Prix at the Marina Bay Street Circuit, H. Moser & Cie. pulls the covers off its latest Formula 1-themed watch. But it’s perhaps not what you expect, as it doesn’t come in some highly exotic F1-tech derived material, nor with a revolutionary design. Instead, the renowned independent […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”
Tudor released the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” for this year’s Miami F1 Grand Prix. The watch celebrates the collaboration with the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls (VCARB) Formula 1 team with a 2,025-piece limited run. I got a chance to go hands-on to see what’s what. I was delighted to get this opportunity because […] Visit Hands-On With The New Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New ZRC Grands Fonds Heritage Smoke
Except if you’re a hardcore dive watch enthusiast, ZRC might not immediately ring a bell. And yet, it is a rather important name for divers, particularly in France. An old company that once created a watch for the French Navy and delivered them for a good 35 years, the whole concept was brought back to […]
Fratello
Tudor Introduces The New Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”
We knew something was coming from Tudor this weekend. We also knew it would be related to this weekend’s F1 Grand Prix at the Miami International Autodrome. It had Tudor fans speculating what this new release could be. Especially after the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls F1 team announced a full pink race livery for […] Visit Tudor Introduces The New Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 27000M Complicated Desk Clock
Patek Philippe’s Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27000M-001 is the biggest release of Watches & Wonders 2025, with a footprint of 164.6 by 125 mm, and rising to 76.73 mm at its apex. Priced at an even CHF1 million before taxes, the clock is powered by a key-wound, 31-day movement – incorporating a one-second remontoir d’egalite – housed in a wedge-shaped sterling silver cabinet, decorated with green flinqué enamel. Initial thoughts While we’ve seen desk and table clocks from others in the space, none have been as incredibly high-effort as this. Patek Philippe claims the 912-part shaped caliber took seven years of development, including nine patent applications. That’s quite the investment in a product with limited mainstream appeal, and I find it reassuring that Patek Philippe is still willing to make those investments. The enamel work is enchanting and has precedent in early 20th-century silver travel clocks retailed by Cartier, among others. I could take or leave the baroque styling, but the dial and hidden “dashboard” look fantastic. I hope Patek Philippe will offer this movement in other styles down the road. If you’ve never experienced a key-winding watch or clock, it’s quite satisfying; I wouldn’t call it fun, but it’s not something you’re likely to get sick of. It’s an experience you can’t get with Patek Philippe’s other current production clocks, which use an electric motor to wind the movement without need of human intervention. The b...
SJX Watches
Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Gets Nostalgic with Rare Handcrafts 2025
Just as Watches & Wonders 2025 comes to a close, Patek Philippe is opening the doors of its annual showcase of Rare Handcrafts at its historical home base along the Geneva waterfront. Now open for a period of three weeks rather than two as was the case for the 2024 exhibition, the exhibition features dozens of Dome Clocks, wristwatches, and pocket watches embellished with miniature enamel painting, cloisonné, marquetry, hand engraving, and other artistic forms of decoration. The view from the salon with the historic Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues on the left hidden by trees In addition to the usual nature-inspired themes, this year’s collection plays to nostalgia, including both rose-coloured memories of the past and antiquarian visions of the future. Visiting the Rare Handcrafts exhibit is enjoyable because intellectually it’s a level playing field; it’s mostly the same clocks and watches with the same specs and movements dressed up in different ways. This fact makes it easier to pay attention to one’s own heart, and to get drawn into the creations on an emotional level. Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50R-020 “Regent Street” Clocks While the selection of clocks is naturally centered around the brand’s iconic Dome Clocks, Patek is also bringing back desk clocks with a new version of the ref. 27001M which sold for more than US$10 million at Only Watch in 2021. For the corporate titan who has everything, the million-franc desk clock ref. 27000M is embellished with e...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Plays the Classics with the Minute Repeater Perpetual
Topping A. Lange & Söhne’s 2025 line-up is the Minute Repeater Perpetual. Featuring a compact platinum case and black enamel dial, the new flagship watch of the Saxonia line marks the first time Lange has combined these two classic complications on their own. Limited to 50 pieces in platinum, the Repeater Perpetual is positioned near the top of the current catalogue. Beyond the technical complexity, it’s been endowed with an exceptional white gold and black enamel dial crafted in-house, and features the frosted movement finish that’s often reserved for the brand’s special editions. Initial thoughts It’s always nice to see a brand cover new ground, especially when that ground is the tried-and-true combination of a minute repeater and perpetual calendar. It’s an extravagant, decadent watch that combines one of the most legible perpetual calendar layouts with one of the industry’s most technically sophisticated minute repeaters. Beginning with its compact form, the Repeater Perpetual packs 640 components inside a platinum case that’s just 40.5 mm wide and 12.5 mm thick; roughly the same dimensions as a Rolex Submariner. It features an enamel dial in deep black, which is always a risk, since even the tiniest imperfections tend to stand out vividly. A cynic might point out that the new calibre L122.2 is largely a mashup of a Langematik Perpetual and Richard Lange Minute Repeater, but to do so would be to miss the point. The movement is everything Lange does be...
Monochrome
In-Depth – Diving with the New ZRC Grands Fonds Heterium
ZRC is a Swiss brand that seems to live on the shadowy periphery of the watch world. Despite being founded over 120 years ago, I can count the times they have come up in casual watch conversations on no hands. That is to say, it never happens. Even when I agreed to take this new […]
Worn & Wound
Hamilton Introduces the American Classic Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition
I have to start this one off with an admission: I am not a gamer. I really, really enjoy the Grand Theft Auto franchise and have fond memories of playing them deep into the wee hours of the morning with college friends in my younger, slightly less responsible days, but as a capital A “adult” I’ve never given all that much attention to the gaming world. Movies have always been my thing when it comes to getting lost in a narrative on a giant flatscreen TV. I make the comparison to movies here because it’s been frequently discussed how games have nearly replaced movies for a younger generation when it comes to immersive storytelling. Few things make me feel like an old fuddy-duddy more than talking to twenty year olds who have logged more hours watching Twitch streams than Scorsese movies. The new watch from Hamilton, a watch brand long associated with the silver screen, is an example of the gradual shift in interest from filmed entertainment to gaming, and represents a pretty big swing for a brand that has carved out a very clear spot in the mindset of most watch enthusiasts. Hamilton conjures thoughts of American watchmaking history, countless appearances in films over the course of many decades, and classically designed value oriented tools (among many other things – their catalog is vast and they make watches in every style imaginable). But one thing they aren’t frequently associated with is the avant-garde, or truly experimental design, their 2001 inspired ...
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 98: Timex, Ming, Autodromo, and More!
Episode 98 of A Week in Watches is full of nostalgia but has a few watches, too. We get things started by looking at the new Giorgio Galli S2Ti, the grand finale for Galli’s S-series. We follow that up with a look at Ming’s follow-up to their award-winning dive watch from last year. The last two stories are where we take a trip down memory lane, first with Autodromo. 13 years after its release, the motorsport-inspired brand has brought back the Monoposto automatic, their first mechanical watch. Finally, we look at the new MKII Fulcrum, a remake of another watch from over a decade ago. This year marks the 10th anniversary of the first Windup Watch Fair, and we are excited to announce that we’ve added a fourth show to the roster taking place for the first time in Dallas, Texas. Happening March 15th and 16th, the fair will host around 40 brands and be held at the Hickory Street Annex in the Deep Ellum neighborhood. Texas-based fans, mark your calendars and head to windupwatchfair.com for more details as they emerge. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 98: Timex, Ming, Autodromo, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.