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New: The Piaget Altiplano Concept with Editorial Commentary
Piaget makes the Altiplano Concept, first introduced in 2018 as a prototype, available as a customizable, speical order watch using the ultra thin 900P-UC.
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Piaget makes the Altiplano Concept, first introduced in 2018 as a prototype, available as a customizable, speical order watch using the ultra thin 900P-UC.
Revolution
The modern Slim d’Hermès adds a GMT function, while keeping its ultra-thin profile.
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin refreshes its sporty Overseas collection with a skeletonized iteration of the great ultra-thin perpetual calendar and a new solid gold bracelet.
SJX Watches
Piaget first introduced the Altiplano Ultimate Concept in 2018 as an exercise in pushing the limits of mechanical watchmaking – the thinnest mechanical wristwatch ever, at 2 mm in its entirety. Now the experimental creation has become reality at Watches & Wonders 2020, available as a wholly-customisable, special-order timepiece that’s still just 2 mm high – but accompanied by a staggering retail price. No stranger to ultra-thin watches – the brand debuted its first extra-thin movement, the 9P, in 1957 – Piaget already claimed the title of thinnest-mechanical-watch-on-the-market in 2013 with the 3.65 mm-high Altiplano 900P. Most of the tricks relied on to create that record-setting movement have been repeated in the new Altiplano Ultimate Concept and its cal. 900P-UC, but in more extreme form, with the new watch boasting five additional patents for features relating to the extra thinness. A sliver of cobalt alloy Notably, the case and main plate of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept are one and the same, a single piece machined out of cobalt-based alloy for strength – gold is too soft and might bend if strapped too tightly on the wrist. As in the 900P, the case functions as the main plate of the 900P-UC, revamping a layer from the movement and reducing the overall thickness of the watch. But despite being a single piece, the case and main plate can be specified with different finishes for contrast. For instance, the cobalt-alloy case can retain its natural colour wi...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Seiko dropped what seemed like an innumerable amount of limited edition timepieces in 2019, and that got us thinking – which one was best? That’s a much tougher question than it sounds, but this SLA033 dive watch surely has to be in the running. A revival of the prolific 6105, a watch made … ContinuedThe post Was this the greatest limited edition Seiko of 2019? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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We pit two superb ultra-thin watches, the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 and Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950, against each other to see which one comes out on top.
SJX Watches
Barely a month after the inaugural LVMH Watch Week in Dubai, Bulgari has announced it is out of Baselworld 2020, citing the “Coronavirus pandemic”. Instead, Bulgari will present its products at roadshows in key markets, where amongst other things it will unveil a new record-setting ultra-thin watch. In the Bulgari announcement of its exit, chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin was careful to note that the jeweller might return to the event, stating “we remain open for 2021 onwards to continue with Baselworld”, with a decision due to be made by June 2020. The Roman jeweller is the biggest revenue earner amongst the LVMH watch and jewellery brands, which also includes watchmakers Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith. All four already showed most of their new products for the year in Dubai, though Bulgari is the only one to depart Baselworld. Sunny and free of the flu in Dubai In contrast, the three watch brands of LVMH will be staying put. In a press release swiftly put out by Baselworld after Bulgari’s departure, LVMH watch division president Stéphane Bianchi stated: “We believe in the importance of a major event for the Swiss watch industry and look forward to a successful fair, both in terms of image and sales, for our three Maisons.” The divergence between Bulgari and the LVMH watch division gives credence to talk within the industry that a keen rivalry has developed between Messrs Babin and Bianchi, who joined LVMH in 2018 after a successful stint running Fre...
Revolution
The ultra-thin, ultra-impressive addition to the Octo Finissimo family gets a closer look, the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s annual collection of one-off and custom haute horlogerie watches was titled La Musique du Temps this year, being most made up of minute repeaters. They ranged from the strikingly simple to exceedingly ornate, with one of the prime examples of simplicity being the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ‘Romantic Note’. Being one of two time-only minute repeaters in the collection – the other is ‘Dance of the Gemstones’ – the Romantic Note is essentially a variant of the regular-production Calibre 1731 repeater. It’s a large but elegantly proportioned watch, measuring 41mm by 8.5mm, so it sits wide but flat on the wrist. Though not overly large, the watch would be a bit more elegant if it were smaller. On a small wrist the wide-but-flat proportions can resemble a dinner plate. The smallest case size possible, given the diameter of the movement, is about 39mm, which would have given the watch a more tangible vintage feel. Design-wise the case is simple, which suits the watch well. The styling is taken from the Traditionnelle line, meaning it is relatively angular, with lots of flat surfaces when viewed from the front, which is deceptively simple. Much of the case detail lies in its profile – the case band has a single, lengthwise step, along with lugs inspired by the Maltese cross, the company’s logo. And the case back has a fluted edge as a design feature, being a snap-on, rather than screw-down back. Though the case design is fo...
SJX Watches
Another of the strikingly elegant, one-off minute repeaters that’s part of Vacheron Constantin’s 2019 Les Cabinotiers line-up is the Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ‘Dance of the Gemstones’. Well, it is actually two repeaters, a matched pair of his-and-hers watches (that are available separately nonetheless) with eggshell grand feu enamel dials and ruby hour markers. The dials are extravagant yet elegant, evoking prominent watches of many decades ago. They are inspired by high-end gentlemen’s wristwatches of the 1950s that combined silvered or enamel dials with ruby hour markers, with baguette-cut stones for the quarters and brilliant-cut in between. These were often special orders for royalty or as royal gifts, with the best known being the pocket- and wristwatches made for King Saud bin Abdulaziz of Saudi Arabia that bore his portrait on the enamel dial. His and hers A Patek Philippe ref. 2481 from 1955 with a cream enamel dial bearing a portrait of King Saud bin Abdulaziz. Image – Christie’s Both the repeaters share a similar case design, but different diameters and decoration – the men’s version is 41mm while the ladies’ watch is 39mm with a diamond-set bezel and crown. The watches are otherwise identical, powered by the same cal. 1731, an extra-flat, hand-wound movement that was developed in-house. Key facts and price Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ‘The Dance of the Gemstones’ Men’s model – ref. 6630C/000R-B662 Ladies’ model – r...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: A perennially common question in the horological hemisphere is, “What is the next BIG future collectible timepiece?” It’s a pretty loaded question, and usually one answered with, rather obviously, nothing more than conjecture and anecdotal hypothesis. But, if we’re being honest, the best indicator of the “next big thing” is when there is … ContinuedThe post Is this Tudor Black Bay “Smiley” the next big collector’s watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s sports luxury line-up is a diverse one, including a world time, dual time, and chronograph. The most appealing models in the range, however, are unquestionably the Ultra-Thins, which are unfortunately only available in 18k gold, making them the most expensive. But they are slim, sharply executed and sit beautifully on the wrist. The collection includes two ultra-thin models, the time-only Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin, and the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 4300V. Both share the same base movement, and nearly identical dimensions; close your eyes and it’s difficult to tell the two apart on the wrist. But this story is only about the top of the line perpetual calendar. Cutting an elegant figure The perpetual calendar looks like all other Overseas watches, with the trademark bottle cap bezel and sloping case sides. But it is the most elegant of them all despite being a largish watch. It is exceptionally refined in profile – the case is 41.5mm in diameter, but just 8.10mm high. The elegant proportions are similar to those of the luxury sports watch greats, namely the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Because the watch is available only in 18k white or pink gold, it weighs enough to feel as expensive as it is. The weight is reassuring, and an important quality. Put simply, it’s a big, flat and heavy watch, which is what a luxury sports watch should be. Though the perpetual calendar is available in pink gold on a leather or rubber st...
Time+Tide
The story in a second: Ultra thin and out of this world, we have to be talking about the Piaget Altiplano Automatic 40mm with meteorite dial. Piaget’s Altiplano is a staple in the world of ultra-thin watches, with an elegance that matches its slenderness. This limited edition version dials (if you’ll pardon the pun) the elegance … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Piaget Altiplano Automatic 40mm with meteorite dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Jack takes a macro look at a beautiful vintage camera made by Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Time+Tide
Piaget is a brand that exudes class, and has style to spare. This was something that Time+Tide and our guests got an up-close lesson in on Wednesday night, when the brand showcased their ultra-thin masterpieces for us. For watches that look so slight, the Piaget Altiplano packs a punch - I had the pleasure of … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Celebrating the slender wonders of Piaget in Melbourne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Breguet’s big novelty this year is the new Classique Tourbillon Squelette 5935. Ultra thin caliber 581 automatic movement with peripheral rotor has about 50% of the mass removed in the skeletonising process. The case in RG, 41mm. Next the range of the Reine de Naples is extended with two new additions. One with a blueRead More
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Over at Bulgari, the reign of the Octo Finissimo continues to flourish. At Baselworld 2019 the ultra-thin heavyweight collection gained two strong new members. And over on the women’s side, there’s a new golden serpent to adore. The hero of Bulgari’s set piece is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, a very smart addition (in both … ContinuedThe post LIST: 3 of the best Bulgari watches from Basel 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A little while ago, I had a very good day at work. That’s because my job involved spending some quality time with three exceptional Vacheron Constantin watches, which just happened to be in Melbourne. The first was the Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin - a very classic (and slender) execution. Then there was the gorgeous Traditionnelle … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Up close and personal with 3 very complicated Vacheron Constantin watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Bulgari breaks the thinnest records again. Fifth World Record. 2014: tourbillon. 2016: Minute Repeater. 2017: Automatc Micro Rotor. 2918: Tourbillon Automatic. And this year the GMT Chronograph. This year two incredible pieces: First the Finnissimo Chronograph GMT in sandblasted titanium case. Ultra thin Chrono movement of only 3.3mm. Case 6.9mm in an slightly larger 42mmRead More
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The new 39mm white gold Royal Oak uses the ultra thin case and movement with the 2 hands configuration. The watch is intriguing primarily due to the unique dial color. Using the 2121 automatic movement, the 15202BC ticks at 19,800 vph and offers a 40-hour power reserve. It measures 8 mm on the wrist and is priced at US$55,400.
Time+Tide
Adding variety in the world of ultra-thin watchmaking is tricky. Because in this space, additional complications typically equals extra thickness - and that defeats the aim of the exercise. So instead of working on altering the mechanics, you change the aesthetics, which is just what Piaget has done here with these new additions to the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Crashing to earth – Piaget’s Altiplano with meteorite dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Chief Editor Peter picks his Top 5 watches from SIHH 2019: from A. Lange & Sohne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, Armin Strom and Ferdinand Berthoud.
Time+Tide
When it comes to materials, it’s hard to beat Rado. The brand is a master of innovative materials. They pioneered ultra hard metals and ceramics, and continue to push the realms of the possible. The latest is Ceramos, an alloy of ceramic and metal that offers the best of both worlds - the lightness and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: It’s not ceramic, it’s not metal, it’s the Rado DiaMaster Thinline Ceramos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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We find the under rated watches lurking behind the giants of horology. From Lange, Breguet, Bulgari, Chopard, Jaeger-LeCoultre & Habring².
Time+Tide
Few topics are as likely to induce eye-twitching spasms in horology’s true believers than the the old chestnut, “Is the Apple Watch a watch?” Well, with the announcement of the Apple Watch Series 4, it seems like Apple might be answering that question in a pretty declarative way. Sure, it’s got watch-like functions, but really … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Apple Watch Series 4, you might not think it’s a watch, but it’s definitely a powerful health and fitness tool appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The model that’s emerging as the hero of Bulgari’s watch collection - which is undergoing a serious renaissance at the moment - is the Octo Finissimo Automatic, a simpler, more day-to-day offering than the tourbillons, minute repeaters and the like that also form part of the family. Until earlier this year the Finissimo Automatic was … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Bulgari’s bright steel Octo Finissimo Automatic is a thing of beauty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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With the newly announced RD#2 Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin (the thinnest self-winding Quantième Perpétuel on the market today), the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak collection has proven itself once again that it is more than just a pretty face. Audemars Piguet’s latest novelties at SIHH 2018 is bursting with colour and contrast, vibrant with new ideas, material combinations and design features.
Time+Tide
The story in a second: Forget bling: thin is in, and Bulgari are king. The Octo Finissimo Automatic is the latest in Bulgari’s trio of record-breaking ultra-thin watches, and perhaps the greatest. We have a look at the watch’s barely-there beauty, and find out why it’s such a standout. The case Any discussion of the … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The slender sexiness of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hands-on and review of Bulgari's latest ultra-thin marvel, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Squelette with live pictures.
As the recent Lord Foster-curated exhibition at London’s Design Museum showed, Cartier watches have paralleled society throughout the decades – and none more so than the iconic Tank, which this year celebrates its 100th anniversary.
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