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Le Sentier

Vallée de Joux village; home of Jaeger-LeCoultre since 1833 and Blancpain since 1992 revival.

Business News: Bulgari and Six Independents Join Watches & Wonders 2025 SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Kross Studio Sep 17, 2024

Business News: Bulgari and Six Independents Join Watches & Wonders 2025

Continuing the evolution and growth of Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG), the event will see new additions next year, with Bulgari coming on board as a major exhibitor, along with a half dozen independent brands, including Christiaan van der Klaauw, Kross Studio, and HYT. Bulgari will then become the second major jewellery to show at the event, after Cartier, which historically dominated the Geneva fair when it was still known as Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). WWG was essentially a renamed SIHH after the demise of Baselworld, and Cartier retained its most-favoured status at the event even after the transition to WWG in 2020. As WWG has evolved, however, the balance of power has shifted, as reflected by the recent additions to the event’s governing board. While Cartier and its parent Richemont once had half the seats on the board, the pair now account for just two seats on the expanded, seven-member board, which now includes LVMH, the French luxury group that owns Bulgari. The last SIHH ever that took place in 2019 Indies and youth The addition of six more independent brands to WWG add to its diversity, with a majority of the exhibitors now being small and tiny independent brands. But as was the case with Baselworld before, the independent brands participating are a mixed bad of the good, the bad, and the ugly, which is one reason why some established independent brands are doing their own thing outside the fair – and which ironically was the reason SIH...

The Disco Volante Is In - Two Viral Novelties And Their Vintage Inspiration Fratello
Sep 14, 2024

The Disco Volante Is In - Two Viral Novelties And Their Vintage Inspiration

Disco Volante is a watch style. In Italian, it also means “flying disc” but neither Frisbee nor mid-argument dinner plates. It’s simply a term for a UFO and harks back to the mid-20th century. With such a rich history of Italian people collecting watches, many terms and nicknames have an Italian origin, but is this […] Visit The Disco Volante Is In - Two Viral Novelties And Their Vintage Inspiration to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New And Fun Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz In 33mm And 38mm Sizes Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz Sep 14, 2024

Hands-On With The New And Fun Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz In 33mm And 38mm Sizes

Hamilton’s Khaki Field collection is a true classic among watch enthusiasts, especially novices. There’s something for everyone, including watches with hand-wound, automatic, and quartz movements. Also, with prices ranging from €400 to €2,000, affordable options abound. Today, we’ll look at some new additions to the lower end of the collection’s price spectrum. The new Hamilton […] Visit Hands-On With The New And Fun Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz In 33mm And 38mm Sizes to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Jack Mason Ellum Manual Wind Fratello
Sep 13, 2024

Hands-On With The Jack Mason Ellum Manual Wind

When we look at the history of watchmaking over the past 150 years, we notice that most watches people wore were elegant (by today’s standards, that is). It wasn’t until the beginning of modern warfare in the early 20th century that watches became visually and mechanically utilitarian, with straightforward designs, better movements, and, generally speaking, […] Visit Hands-On With The Jack Mason Ellum Manual Wind to read the full article.

Opinion – The Rolex GMT-Master II Bruce Wayne isn’t Boring, It’s Actually a Great Classic Monochrome
Rolex GMT-Master II Bruce Wayne Sep 12, 2024

Opinion – The Rolex GMT-Master II Bruce Wayne isn’t Boring, It’s Actually a Great Classic

Considering its position as the leader of the Swiss watch industry, it’s fair for Rolex to be the centre of all attention. As such, everything The Crown does is subject to comments, opinions and discussions. Every new model, something that’s happening most of the time only once a year, will be up to strong debates. […]

Hands-On: the Dietrich ED-1 Worn & Wound
Sep 11, 2024

Hands-On: the Dietrich ED-1

One of the great things about the world of watches today is there’s always something out there waiting to surprise. Even as someone who spends a lot of time paying attention to this stuff, there are still brands that slip through the cracks and watches that sneak by when my head is turned. I’ll admit, Dietrich was one of those brands I had missed. Now, having spent some time with two variants of their latest release, the ED-1, I have to say I’m paying attention. Okay, I hadn’t entirely missed them, but I knew Dietrich best from their relatively conventional SD-2 Skin diver. That watch certainly stood out from the familiar onslaught of dive watches, but the structured conventions of dive watches meant the SD-2 didn’t offer the full Dietrich experience. The rounded leaf hands, sandwich dial, and ever-so-slightly hexagonal dial were enough to evoke the Dietrich ‘look,’ but at the end of the day a dive watch is a dive watch, and there’s only so much you can do without ending up with something else. The Dietrich ED-1 marks a return to the core of Dietrich watchmaking, this time with the intention of creating the “ultimate everyday watch.” As an industry, we tend to break watches into categories: dive watches, field watches, pilot’s watches, dress watches, tool watches, dressy tool watches - the list goes on. It’s a bit of a trick, one that makes it easier for both brands and journalists to communicate this intention behind a watch and establish expecta...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Zenith, Breitling, And More Fratello
Breitling Sep 7, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Zenith, Breitling, And More

The time has come to wrap up our Best Watches Under €10K series, and I have the privilege of closing out this latest run. Doubling the budget from €5K unlocks a wealth of possibilities, and today, I’ll be looking to exploit those, even if it does call for a bit of finessing. Still, while I […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Zenith, Breitling, And More to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Gets Extreme with the Latest Carreras Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Gets Extreme Sep 5, 2024

TAG Heuer Gets Extreme with the Latest Carreras

If you’d told me eighteen months ago that the TAG Heuer Carrera would, in very short order, find itself once again at the center of enthusiast interest, there’s a very good chance I’d have laughed you out of the room. And yet, here we sit, 17 months on from the release of the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ and there can be no doubt - thanks in part to an expanded lineup of compelling variants of the 39mm chronograph, as well as exciting interpretations like the widely discussed and sought after Seafarer LE for HODINKEE - that TAG Heuer’s signature chronograph is one of the hottest watches on the market. But the Glassbox is only one side of the Carrera story. Now, TAG Heuer is leaning into the other side with the unveiling of a new technical chronograph. Where the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ looks to the history of the Carrera, the new Carrera Extreme Sport - introduced as a collection of six watches spread across two models: the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport and the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport - present a vision of the future and a bold one at that. The two new models share a lot in common, most notably a shared aesthetic and case design. Both the Chronograph Extreme Sport and the Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport measure 44mm across, 15.1mm thick, and 49.7mm lug-to-lug. Certainly not small, but also decidedly wearable for a chronograph meant to wear large. The lug-to-lug measure, in particular, is deceptively compact and shou...

Hands-On with the Relaunched Favre Leuba Collections at Geneva Watch Days Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Sep 4, 2024

Hands-On with the Relaunched Favre Leuba Collections at Geneva Watch Days

One of my first and most eagerly anticipated Geneva Watch Days meetings was with Favre Leuba, a brand that I’ve admired for a very long time, even as its modern incarnation felt like a shell of the brand of its vintage heyday. Favre Leuba is a brand with a long history, dating back to the first half of the 18th century, and is perhaps best known for the Bivouac, a watch with an integrated altimeter complication. Ownership of the brand has changed many times over the years, and in recent years the marque was controlled by various holding companies that never did justice to the watches created in Favre Leuba’s best years. This year, however, marks a new start for the brand, under the leadership of watch industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann, who had a long stint at Ulysse Nardin, and later WatchBox. At Geneva Watch Days, they debuted a robust new collection of watches that pays homage to the brand’s history while also looking forward, giving Favre Leuba the best chance they’ve had in years for real success.  Patrik Hoffmann at Geneva Watch Days 2024 There are multiple ways to relaunch a brand. You can start small, even with a single watch, and work your way toward building a collection. Or you can go big with something akin to the kitchen sink approach, with varied collections and price points. The advantage, I suppose, of going big is that a brand will get immediate feedback on what works and what doesn’t, but it also seems risky. What if none of it works? Favre Leuba...

Top Watches for Students and Grads Worn & Wound
Sep 4, 2024

Top Watches for Students and Grads

With summer giving its last hurrah as the northern hemisphere slips towards autumn, it’s the time of year when many are headed back to school. Farewell to summer internships and vacation, and hello to new classes, friends, and experiences. But while back-to-school shopping, don’t forget about your watch game - after all, it’s frowned upon to use your phone to check the time during that lecture that feels as though it’ll never end. In today’s Chronicle, we’re looking at ten watches for every stage of your academic career, from high school to that first big job post-undergrad or trade school. With that, please open your books. With summer giving its last hurrah as the northern hemisphere slips towards autumn, it’s the time of year when many are headed back to school. Farewell to summer internships and vacation, and hello to new classes, friends, and experiences. But while back-to-school shopping, don’t forget about your watch game - after all, it’s frowned upon to use your phone to check the time during that lecture that feels as though it’ll never end. In today’s Chronicle, we’re looking at ten watches for every stage of your academic career, from high school to that first big job post-undergrad or trade school. With that, please open your books. The post Top Watches for Students and Grads appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Alarm Watches: A Complete Guide to the Most Underappreciated Watch Com Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 4, 2024

Alarm Watches: A Complete Guide to the Most Underappreciated Watch Com

If we're ranking watch styles by everyday practicality, it's hard to beat the alarm watch. Most of us are regularly needing reminders of appointments, events, and other commitments, and to have the source of such audible alerts right on your wrist, rather than buried in a pocket or a handbag, would seem to be the height of practicality even in today's high-tech world. Around the middle of the 20th Century, many watchmakers agreed and began to embrace the style, but alarm watches never achieved anywhere near the widespread popularity of other complications like chronographs and GMTs. Nevertheless, the alarm watch has played a significant role in horological history, and a handful of important brands have not only been instrumental in its creation and development but continue to rely on it as a major pillar of their collections today. Here is the story of how the mechanical alarm watch came to be, how it became a signature style of certain watchmakers, and how it continues to evolve today despite its niche status in the industry.  Johannes Dürrstein, regarded as the inventor of the alarm watch  Watches with alarm functions go back farther into horological history than most probably realize. Johannes Dürrsstein, a watchmaker in Glashütte, Germany, invented the first mass-produced, alarm-equipped pocket watch caliber in 1900. Dürrstein’s invention used an extra-long mainspring that could fuel both the timekeeping and the independent alarm hand, which was activated by a...

Introducing – Jacob & Co. Updates its Bold Oil Pump Tourbillon Watch Monochrome
Jacob & Co. Aug 31, 2024

Introducing – Jacob & Co. Updates its Bold Oil Pump Tourbillon Watch

Forget conservative, low-key luxury with Jacob & Co. The brand’s timepieces are extravagant and spectacular creations that push the boundaries. While the design of his statement pieces may divide opinions, there’s no denying that Jacob brings a unique and captivating essence to the industry. Introduced in 2019, the Oil Pump watch blends precision with entertainment, […]

Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches Fratello
Breitling Celebrates Aug 29, 2024

Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches

This past June, Breitling invited me to its Chronometrie facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The tour offered an opportunity to see the various Breitling manufacture calibers in different production states. The meticulous yet efficient nature of the assembly leads to a robust and reliable B01 chronograph movement along with modules for calendar and GMT functions. […] Visit Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches to read the full article.

Albishorn Debuts with the Maxigraph SJX Watches
Massena Lab Aug 29, 2024

Albishorn Debuts with the Maxigraph

Amongst the brands making their debut this summer is Albishorn, which has teamed up with Massena LAB for the Maxigraph, a vintage-inspired regatta timer with a proprietary movement. The Maxigraph is the first watch from Albishorn, a new brand founded by Sébastien Chaulmontet. A lawyer by training, Dr Chaulmontet pivoted to build a career in the watch industry, designing movements at La Joux-Perret and most recently, Sellita. Initial thoughts The Maxigraph is an impressive debut from Dr Chaulmontet. Though arguably similar in concept to other Massena LAB projects, the Maxigraph feels more original since it’s not anchored to any particular historical brand. The bright red chronograph pusher at nine o’clock, for example, is not something you’d see in a vintage catalogue. The polychromatic sector dial and bi-directional rotating bezel are attractive and legible, while the semi-circular countdown register and running indicator add a pleasing degree of asymmetry to the design. The asymmetry continues at night, with an unusual pattern and the use of both green and blue Super-LumiNova for the hour and minute hands, respectively. One of the most appealing characteristics of the Maxigraph is its case, which calls to mind oversized tool watches like the Longines ref. 5824 military chronograph. But unlike that 47 mm beast, the Maxigraph is a manageable 41 mm at the bezel (sloping inwards to just 39 mm at the case middle). The case thickness of 13 mm is typical for this type o...

Hands On: Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic SJX Watches
Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic Aug 28, 2024

Hands On: Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic

In its original form, the Piaget Polo is an all-gold watch emblematic of 1970s style, but the model’s latest incarnation is the opposite. The Polo Skeleton Ceramic has an ultra-thin movement open-worked in a clean, geometric style, presented in brushed black ceramic case. Based on the original in steel, the Polo Skeleton Ceramic is dressed in restrained colours of black, grey, and dark blue, for a minimalist, low-key aesthetic. Initial thoughts The modern Polo has evolved since its original form of 2016, and with the evolution the model has gained its own character. While the original version felt like a typical luxury-sports watch with its patterned blue dial and prominent bezel, the skeleton in ceramic looks original. The matte black ceramic case matches the technical appearance of the movement, though I would have preferred grey or even white Super-Luminova. The blue lume matches the rotor and Piaget’s corporate colour, but it is too unorthodox (and it also glows less brightly). Though finished with the same alternate brushed and polished surfaces as its steel counterpart, the ceramic case feels more refined given the comparative challenge of finishing ceramic to the same degree as steel. The cal. 1200S1 is open worked in a modern style that is typical of many current skeleton movements. All of the bridges have clean lines and surfaces, which complements the case and dial aesthetic. The movement finishing is industrial-haute horlogerie, though I would have employed ...

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: the Pendulum Clock and Improving the Accuracy of Timekeeping Worn & Wound
Aug 27, 2024

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: the Pendulum Clock and Improving the Accuracy of Timekeeping

Editor’s Note: Today, a new series from Andrew Canter: the Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. In this first installment, Andrew looks at the pendulum clock, an invention largely taken for granted today, but one which led to virtually every horological advancement commonly known. It also had a profound ripple effect on how we live our lives, allowing human beings the ability the schedule events with a level of precision previously impossible.  In 16th century London, only the very wealthy owned domestic clocks, watches and sundials. Inventories of their property suggest that most clocks and watches were imported from Germany, France and the Low Countries (see below). By about 1600 however, a small group of makers had become established in the City of London. King Henry VIII (1509 – 1547) and his successors encouraged foreign makers and mathematicians to settle in London and bring their skills with them. Sir Thomas More, his father, his household and his descendants by Rowland Lockey, after Hans Holbein the Younger oil on canvas, 1593 © National Portrait Gallery, London Portrait of Lady Bolle, Circle of Paul Van Somer, London 1627. Portrayed wearing a set of superb matching jewellery, which includes a fine ruby-set watch, with its key. Image Courtesy of the Science Museum Group/The Clockmakers’ Museum © The Board of Trustees of the Science Museum, London As the market for clocks and watches grew in London, more and more immigrant makers made their way to t...

Collector Profile: Finding a Community of Independents with Niels Pedersen Worn & Wound
Tissot connect Aug 23, 2024

Collector Profile: Finding a Community of Independents with Niels Pedersen

How does a vintage Tissot connect to Felipe Pikullik and some of the watch world’s most exciting and dynamic young independent watchmakers and brands? If you said through Dutch collector Niels Pedersen, you’d be very much on the right track. Take a quick look over at Niels’s Instagram (@nielsmpe) and you’ll be greeted by a genuinely envy-inducing assortment of watches. Even more remarkable? That each and every watch feels totally at home in Niels’s feed, whether he’s posting a one-of-a-kind piece from an under-the-radar indie, or his latest pickup from Seiko. So what does a collector like Niels look for in a watch? Well, it turns out it’s a pretty simple recipe. “Basically, I’m design-driven, so it has to be aesthetically pleasing. So that’s the first… and I want something that’s simple, fixable, and reliable because I’ve been sending watches back and forth to the manufacturer so many times,” he told me. “Design-driven and something that’s reliable, I’d say.”   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Niels Pedersen (@nielsmpe) Just because it’s easy to express doesn’t mean this simple philosophy wasn’t a lesson learned over time. The path that transformed Niels into the collector he is today started at a young age, with a little help from his mother. “When I was a kid, my mom used to travel to Asia all the time for work, and every time she would come home, she would have some kind of knockoff watch, either with Porsche o...

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Citizen Watches Fratello
Citizen Watches Another Friday another Aug 23, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Citizen Watches

Another Friday, another list! Last week, we concluded our series of articles covering the best watches of the first half of 2024. Now it’s time to move on to something different. This week, we’ll look at our five favorite currently available Citizen watches. Over the past couple of years, this longstanding Japanese maker has shown […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Current Citizen Watches to read the full article.

Ming Introduces the Latest Watch from their Special Projects Cave, the Solid Gold 20.01 Series 3 Worn & Wound
Ming Aug 20, 2024

Ming Introduces the Latest Watch from their Special Projects Cave, the Solid Gold 20.01 Series 3

Ming is a brand that tends to elicit strong reactions from enthusiasts. They are certainly not to everyone’s taste, but those who love the brand really love the brand and are among the most enthusiastic collectors I’ve encountered in the watch world. I’ll be honest, Ming’s house aesthetic is typically not for me, personally, but I’ve gained a tremendous amount of respect for the brand as I’ve had a chance to talk to more owners about they find these watches so interesting. A big part of it, as it always seems to be, is the community built around that ownership experience. That community reveals itself in a public way via Ming’s Special Project’s Cave, a kind of skunk-works segment of the brand that is free to experiment as the brand develops new technologies. As Ming always points out when they release a watch from the Cave, the process always involves input from their customers, so you could think of the watches in this series as a real reflection of the brand’s owners. If that’s the case, their latest creation, the 20.01 Series 3, kind of proves my point about the vibrancy of the Ming community.  At a high level, the 20.01 Series 3 is a precious metal chronograph utilizing the excellent AgenGraphe movement by Agenhor. But when you get closer (and closer) you realize that the 20.03 is perhaps the brand’s most avant-garde creation yet, which is saying something considering some of the projects that have come out of the Special Projects Cave to this p...

Our Favorite Pilot And Aviation Style Watches Under For $5,000 Worn & Wound
Aug 20, 2024

Our Favorite Pilot And Aviation Style Watches Under For $5,000

Pilot-style watches represent one of the most popular segments within the industry. Introduced at the dawn of aviation in the early twentieth century, pilot’s watches are the original tool watches. They range from simple, time-only designs to complication-filled behemoths with altimeters and slide rules. From heritage-inspired reissues to cutting-edge technology, there’s a pilot watch to suit every style and budget. They inspire a sense of adventure into the unknown, their function-over-form nature, and often rugged good looks, making them ideal for daily wear. Without further ado, here are fifteen of our favorite pilot-style watches under $5,000. The post Our Favorite Pilot And Aviation Style Watches Under For $5,000 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

A Useless Bit Of Consumer Advice: A Review Of The Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes Fratello
Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes We love Aug 20, 2024

A Useless Bit Of Consumer Advice: A Review Of The Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes

We love to provide proper, useful consumer advice here on Fratello. Unfortunately, I won’t be doing that today. Instead, I’ll be writing about my experience trying on one of my favorite releases of this year, the Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes. This is a watch that, even if you could afford it, isn’t available anymore. I thought […] Visit A Useless Bit Of Consumer Advice: A Review Of The Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes to read the full article.

[VIDEO] Fun with Fortis at Windup Watch Fair Chicago Worn & Wound
Fortis Aug 15, 2024

[VIDEO] Fun with Fortis at Windup Watch Fair Chicago

Known for their deep expertise in making precision tool watches for pilots, professionals, and enthusiasts, Fortis has been a key fixture at the last several Windup Watch Fairs. Our media team was fortunate to capture some of the buzz surrounding the Fortis booth at the recent Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, along with some close-ups of some of their latest releases. Be sure to join Fortis at Center415 right on 5th Avenue in Manhattan on October 18th-20th as a Lead Sponsor of 2024’s Windup Watch Fair NYC! We can’t wait to see you there. The post [VIDEO] Fun with Fortis at Windup Watch Fair Chicago appeared first on Worn & Wound.