Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: The Watches We Want To Wear All Summer
The heat is on so we pick our watches for the warm season.
Results for Sea-Dweller
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Wiki · Guide
The COMEX Submariner Story Rolex
French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.
Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Rolex Sea-Dweller Rolex
43 mm × 14.6 mm, lug 22 mm, Cal. 3235
Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 (1988-2008) Rolex
40 mm × 15.0 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 3135
Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Rolex Sea-Dweller 1665 "Double Red / Great White" (1967-1980) Rolex
40 mm × 15.0 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 1575
Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
De Bethune Debuts the DB28xs Starry Seas, a Smaller Version of their Signature Design with a Beautiful Ocean Inspired Dial
The De Bethune DB28 is an absolutely insane watch. As I found out for myself in Geneva earlier this year, the watch’s large proportions play tricks on you: it’s enormous to the eye, but incredibly light on the wrist thanks to the titanium case construction and airy design with those patented hollowed out, articulating lugs. Even though this watch is the ultimate example of “It actually wears a lot smaller…” I think it’s understandable that collectors would call for a version that’s actually smaller, and that’s what De Bethune has delivered with the new DB28xs Starry Seas. This is essentially a scaled down version of the DB28 that incorporates a fantastic and first of its kind dial that applies guilloche in an entirely new way. The centerpiece here is certainly the dial, which is made from heat blued titanium, taking on the dramatic bright blue shade that has become a De Bethune hallmark of sorts. The decoration is what De Bethune refers to as “random guilloche,” and they say this is the first time this technique has been used in a watch dial design. The cumulative effect is a dial that looks like ocean waves in motion, and it’s been accented with small white gold “stars” to create the impression of the night sky being reflected off the surface of a body of water. It’s a natural extension of other “Starry” De Bethune references, which typically depict a night sky view. The case will be familiar to those who know the DB28 (the lucky few). It...
Quill & Pad
De Bethune Navigates Uncharted Territory with the Stunning DB28xs Starry Seas
De Bethune has a thing for stars, but the way that they present them in the DB28xs Starry Seas is something that we haven't seen before. As the name already hints, are the stars reflected in an ocean full of waves. To create this effect, De Bethune invented a random guilloché pattern, a world's first, representing the waves.
Worn & Wound
A Week In Watches Ep. 51: TAG Heuer Opens Up The Monaco & US Made Watches From J.N. Shapiro
In episode 51 of A Week In Watches we take a look at a trio of new Monaco watches from TAG Heuer leading into the race weekend in, well, Monaco, as well as a watch that’s taken shape almost entirely in the US of A from the workshop of J.N. Shapiro. Those two watches might be on opposite ends of the spectrum, but there’s plenty more to discuss in the middle, from a new Mathey Tissot x Massena LAB, Breitling Classic AVI watches (including one sweet re-edition), and news from Audemars Piguet, who’ve announced a new CEO to take the helm of the brand beginning next year. Plus, one spicy comment from last week’s episode. Be sure to catch next week’s episode, which marks one full year of A Week In Watches in, naturally, episode 52. It’s a special episode with Zach, Zach, and Blake taking a seat to answer questions submitted through our Worn & Wound+ Slack channel, which you can join by signing up for our weekly newsletter right here. Be sure to head over to YouTube to leave a comment on this episode and the next for a chance to be featured in an upcoming episode, and let us know your thoughts on the stories featured this week. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 51: TAG Heuer Opens Up The Monaco & US Made Watches From J.N. Shapiro appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Halios is Back with a New Limited Edition Made in Collaboration with Topper Jewelers
Halios, Jason Lim’s microbrand that has developed a rabid following over the years, only increasing as new releases have slowed, is releasing a new watch today in a collaboration with Topper Jewelers out of Burlingame, CA. It’s a new Universa, but it incorporates dial elements typically found in the Seaforth, the watch that is in many ways the brand’s calling card. In that sense, it’s a bit of a hybrid, combining several elements of Jason’s design language that have endured over the years. The Universa has a 38mm stainless steel case that is mostly brushed, but has a classic polished chamfer along the lugs. It has a sculpted, almost architectural feel to it, with wide facets and gentle curves. The bezel-less design gives the watch an old-school, no nonsense sports watch vibe, and it certainly wouldn’t be crazy to note that the watch takes plenty of inspiration from classic tool watches. It’s the dial, though, that makes this Universa special. It’s a crisp white with hands and hour markers that have been accented in black for maximum contrast. The layout is taken directly from the Seaforth, and includes the same thick, applied hour markers that give the dial an increased sense of depth. Hash marks on the minute scale alternate between blue, yellow, and green, representing natural elements found near Topper’s headquarters in Burlingame (the ocean, northern California sunshine, and giant redwood trees). Speaking to the intensity of Halios’ followin...
SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces the DB28xs Starry Seas
The latest version of De Bethune’s signature watch shrinks the case and ups the level of dial decoration. The DB28xs Starry Seas has a compact case of just 38.7 mm and an eye-catching dial finished a wave pattern and inlaid white gold stars in typical De Bethune style. Initial thoughts Originally a large watch with a case of 43 mm, the DB28 nonetheless became the brand’s trademark watch thanks to its distinctive styling and hinged lugs. So a more wearable version of the DB28 will certainly have is audience. In fact, the case of 38.7 mm is more than manageable, it is almost small by the standards of highly contemporary independent watchmaking. With the reduced case, however, the DB28xs might have lost some of the presence that made the original DB28 interesting, although that will have to be judged in the metal. Besides the case, the other novel feature of the watch is the wave pattern on the dial that’s complemented by inlaid gold stars, which is meant to evoke the night sky reflected on water. The wave pattern is new for De Bethune, adding some originality to this variant of the DB28. While the dial is beautiful – De Bethune’s blued titanium dials usually are – and the case remains appealing even on a smaller scale, I would have hoped that the brand did something more inventive, rather than create variants of existing designs and movements. Apart from the dial and case, the DB28xs is largely identical to its larger siblings, including utilising the same...
Worn & Wound
Bulgari is Ready for Summer with Beach Ready “Capri” Updates to their Aluminum Collection
At the time of this writing, we are less than a week out from Memorial Day weekend, the unofficial start of summer. So you’ll forgive us if we’ve got summer watches on the brain. Looking ahead to the warmer months, vacations, travel, and relaxing purely for the sake of it is a good opportunity to consider watches that fit the bill. There’s something about the ultra formal that doesn’t exactly have us thinking about the beach, and cocktails with little umbrellas in them. Luckily for all of us, watch brands understand this, and we’ve seen an influx of cheerful and seasonally appropriate watches hit the landscape just in the last few weeks. One release from the Bulgari, a multi-watch update to their Aluminum collection, feels particularly ready for a tropical disposition. The Aluminum is a throwback to a Bulgari style that was at its peak in the 90s. Longtime podcast listeners will remember that I have a particular fascination with the Diagono line that these watches are clearly meant to evoke. Being made from aluminum, they are ultra lightweight, and have unique integrated rubber bracelets that are not really exactly like anything else out there. But the feature that truly divides people with these watches is the bezel, made from rubber that matches that bracelet and stamped twice with the Bulgari wordmark, just in case you forget what brand you’re wearing, or have an inclination to see what the brand name looks like upside down. It’s a strange design choice,...
Deployant
Six exciting new chronographs from the post-pandemic season
We admit it. We have an obsession with chronographs. So we celebrate the complication! Here are six of our favourites from the post-pandemic season.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Digital Meets Analog with the Teenage Engineering TP-7, Quite Carry Premieres The Drift Large Contoured, & the Svelte Voigtländer Ultron 27mm Prime Lens
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Teenage Engineering Teenage Engineering’s TP-7 Equips The Digital Recorder An Analog Feel Via Teenage Engineering You can bet that anything produced by Teenage Engineering is going to have a clean and distinguishable design. With a focus in developing high quality, Swedish designed electronics and synthesizers, there’s a consistent level of attention to detail across their range of products. Their latest is the TP-7 – a compact field recorder that combines their unique design language with an appealing analog feel. Via Teenage Engineering The TP-7 is built to record in all sorts of situations, from recording music to logging important thoughts for later on. Each button is strategically placed so that every function is accessible in the palm of your hand. The main feature is its mechanical tape reel which allows you to conveniently scrub through previous recordings or seamlessly navigate the TP-7 menu. Plus the actual look and feel of the center wheel adds to the cool factor that is sure to speak to all of us analog lovers. The Teenage Engineering TP-7 will r...
SJX Watches
Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023
The Geneva auction weekend is typically a good barometer for where the market is headed in the near term because it’s the opening act of the season, with the Hong Kong and New York sales following later in spring. At the same time, the Swiss city is also where many of the serious players and would-be players turn up during the auctions, perhaps because its more central location compared to its North American and Asian counterparts. Inching downwards Trends that became clear last season – six months ago – continued into the spring sales. Most obviously, the values of “hype” watches have continued to creep downwards. This was exemplified by the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980/1400G – white gold and entirely set with diamonds – that sold for CHF533,400 including fees. While times were good, the model was a million dollar (or franc) watch – the exact same watch sold for CHF937,500 a year ago at Phillips. More notably, the last time an example, before the pandemic at Christie’s in 2018, it achieved CHF612,500. Prior to the auction season, independent watchmaking appeared to be resisting the forces of gravity, with demand and prices for such watches continuing to be robust. Now it appears the genre is enduring the same decline as sports watches with integrated bracelets. Take for example the unique Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10 with a steel case and open dial sold at Phillips for CHF342,900 – a solid result but more or less its original retail price. Just ...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Story of the Walter White Watch, from "Breaking Bad" to "Better Ca
The sixth and final season of AMC’s prestige drama series Better Call Saul, the prequel to the award-winning Breaking Bad, dropped on Netflix back in April, and a wristwatch that appears prominently in the series finale has caught the attention of avid small-screen watch spotters. Some of them may remember - while others may have missed - seeing the watch for the first time in Breaking Bad, where it played an even more significant symbolic role in the storyline of its owner, Walter White, played by multiple Emmy winning lead actor Bryan Cranston. Here is the story behind Walter White’s watch and why it is so much more than just a prop. When we first meet Walter White, in the premiere episode of Breaking Bad on January 20, 2008, he is a somewhat pitiable figure: an underpaid, underappreciated high school chemistry teacher who drives a Pontiac Aztek (remember those?), wears a cheap digital watch, and struggles to support his small family, which includes caring for a son with cerebral palsy. In that same pilot episode, Walter learns he has terminal cancer - a diagnosis that triggers the desperate and increasingly ruthless quest for illicit riches and power that defines the arc of the series, as Walter evolves from hapless, nondescript educator to the crystal meth kingpin of Albuquerque, New Mexico. (Series creator Vince Gilligan has described its high concept as “Mr. Chips becomes Scarface.”) The first watch that we saw Walter wearing is a fairly humble one, a ...
Worn & Wound
Out Of Office: Cruising the California Coast With The Grand Seiko SBGE285
“Out of Office” is a series of stories accounting our experiences trying to find moments of solace outdoors, as well as our interaction with the gear that comes along with us, and that most certainly includes the watches on our wrist. Out of Office is an escape. It’s about finding an opportunity to put the world on pause, whether it’s the few minutes you take out of your day to read this article, or its the couple of hours you dedicate to getting out there. It’s where our experience meets our enthusiasm. Through this series we’ve already seen our authors do a hike in the local hills with a Sinn, explore a glacier via seaplane with a Citizen and a road trip through New England with a Rolex. Let’s continue this journey together and see where it takes us.” It’s no secret that I love the west coast. I might have been born in Tennessee, but my heart belongs in California. The ocean, the trees, the mountains…they just have my soul. I was recently in San Francisco for our annual Windup Watch Fair and decided to take a few days after the event to travel North up the Sonoma Coast, then back down to Monterey before heading back to Nashville. I expected a fun relaxing vacation with my BFF and that’s exactly what I got. Before I dive into some of the places I visited on this trip, I want to quickly go over some of the gear I brought with me. My camera of choice for this vacation was the Panasonic Lumix S5II with the Panasonic 85mm 1.8 lens. This camera is on lo...
Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces New References in their Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer Collection, Including One in Titanium
Omega began teasing a new watch on their social media channels in the last few days, and while it was immediately pretty clear we’d be getting a new Worldtimer of some sort, the finer details were very much left a mystery. The existing Worldtimer has become a bit of a cult favorite since its release. It has a truly useful complication, and a dial that is undeniably stunning when you see it in person. The representation of earth as viewed from above the North Pole is a worldtimer trope, and there are a lot of ways to execute it, but few brands give you the detail that Omega can. That said, the watch has always been a little on the large side, and a new colorway is always welcome. Speculation ensued that a smaller version of the Worldtimer might be hitting boutiques, but what we got instead is a material change, along with a hard lean into green, which might no longer be the color of the moment, but seems to suit this particular watch just fine. What we have in this release is actually a trio of new watches: two references in stainless steel (one on a bracelet, the other a strap), and a completely new version of the watch in titanium. Let’s tackle the steel watches first. These follow the same 43mm format as the existing Worldtimer (the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer, to be more precise), but substitute the familiar blue dial for one in a PVD coated green. The dials here have a light sun-brushed finish, and dial accents (hands and hour markers) are in Moonshine Gold. ...
Time+Tide
Just One More Watch YouTuber Jody Musgrove to embark on ‘Shitbox Rally’ to raise money for the Cancer Council
Just One More Watch YouTuber Jody Musgrove is about to embark on the journey of a lifetime, all in the name of cancer research. Starting tomorrow, he and channel regular Mr X will set off on the ‘Shitbox Rally’ – a 3,400km, 7-day charity car rally from Newcastle to Townsville that will raise money for … ContinuedThe post Just One More Watch YouTuber Jody Musgrove to embark on ‘Shitbox Rally’ to raise money for the Cancer Council appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon”
The Geneva spring auction season kicks off soon and as expected, most of the weekend’s highlights are the usual timepieces from establishment brands and independent watchmakers, including one that is a mix of both, the Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch made by Philippe Dufour. But one of the season’s most intriguing lot is altogether different – the Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon” that’ll go under the hammer at Antiquorum. Both intriguing and quirky, the ref. 1252 “Chameleon” is essentially a sculptural bracelet that happens to have a small, manual-wind movement installed. While such bracelet wristwatches are common for jewellers like Cartier and Bulgari, the “Chameleon” is decidedly unconventional for Patek Philippe. Made in the late 1940s, this example of the “Chameleon” is only the second one known. The first example resides in the Patek Philippe Museum as inventory no. P-107. The “Chameleon” is perhaps more object than timekeeper. It has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000 – arguably not so much for a sculptural Patek Philippe of which only two are known, or a pricey, oddball ladies’ watch. But it is unquestionably interesting and perhaps one of the most intriguing objects on the block this weekend. The “Chameleon” is lot 450 and has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000. Its archive extract has been ordered and is pending according to Antiquorum. For more, visit Antiquorum.com.
Worn & Wound
IWC Returns to Miami with Bright New Titanium Pilot Chronograph 41
Last year marked the inaugural Formula 1 race in Miami at the newly constructed International Autodrome, the second F1 race in the United States of the season before adding a third in Las Vegas this year (see our recap of the race experience right here). To celebrate the occasion, Mercedes team sponsor, IWC, released a Petronas-AMG themed Pilots Chronograph 41, featuring bright Petronas green dial accents, and a titanium case (see our live look at that watch right here). As we approach round 5 of the 2023 Formula 1 season, once again in Miami, IWC has returned to the Petronas Pilots Chronograph 41 with a bright new strap option befitting of the venue, and matching the special livery seen on the Mercedes cars for the race. The IWC Pilot Chronograph hasn’t always hit the right notes for our taste, but when it received a sized down 41mm case back in 2021, it started to make a lot more sense. Throw in the surprisingly excellent Tribute to 3705 and the watch really hit its stride. When it received a titanium case last year in Miami, the watch overcame one of its biggest downsides: its heft. The lightweight case made a huge difference (similar to the Ceratanium Tribute model), and remains a feature we’d like to see added to more regular production references of the watch. As it stands now, if you want the titanium case, you had better like bright colors as this Petronas green dial is the only way to get it. Thankfully, the Petronas green works well here, and while it’s cer...
Time+Tide
Alpina introduces an Extreme Alpiner quartet on its 140th birthday
It was birthday season at Watches and Wonders 2023 with Swiss brand Alpina celebrating its 140th year of existence. Established in 1883, Alpina has become synonymous with sports watches since establishing its core design tenants of anti-magnetic, steel, shock-resistant, and water-resistant watches way back in 1938. In 2022, Alpina’s revamped Alpiner Extreme collection caught the … ContinuedThe post Alpina introduces an Extreme Alpiner quartet on its 140th birthday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
![[VIDEO] Review: The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/04/PANERIA_RADIOMIR_QUARANTA_20.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Review: The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta
Are there any watches or watch brands that you just have an odd relationship with? Not in a literal sense, but rather in the sense of vacillating appreciation. Once you loved them, then you didn’t, then, on a cold rainy night, you met again by chance and it was happily ever after? Ok, that’s overly dramatic, but the reason for this odd intro is that the brand featured in this review is one that I have had mixed emotions about over the years, making this very post the first time I’ve ever actually reviewed, neigh, worn one, despite the prominence and popularity of the brand. As you already know, the watch is a Panerai Radiomir Quaranta, and this review was a long time coming. You see, before the days of Worn & Wound, when my knowledge of watches was only that of the proverbial tip of the iceberg, Panerai was a brand I quite admired. I recall, distinctly, walking past a Panerai boutique on the East Side of Manhattan and seeing the Black Seal model in the window. It was stunning. I stared at it like in some scene from a bad Hallmark movie of a sad child looking at a puppy dog. But hardly being in the market for a luxury watch at the time, I eventually just kept walking. Years later, after launching Worn & Wound, my knowledge and exposure grew. 2011 was a different time for watches. Microbrands weren’t quite a thing. Tudor wasn’t for sale in the US. Vintage watches were still a niche, and dealers were few and far between. The “internet” was sort of mistrusted by ...
Worn & Wound
Farer Adds a Trio of New 36mm GMTs to the Lander Family
If you’ve been interested in Farer’s Lander GMT (which they tell us is their most popular watch…ever) but felt it was just a bit too big, you’ll want to check out the brand’s latest release. The new 36mm GMT collection takes the Lander aesthetic and shrinks it, making for some of the most compact automatic GMTs on the market. It was only a few months ago that the Lorca GMT had us wondering why there weren’t more smaller GMT equipped watches on the market, and now we have a sudden influx. It’s a good time to be a GMT fan, and now there are a selection of colorful options from across the pond. The premise here is fairly simple. These new watches share the same basic design as the Lander, with a trio of distinct colorways. Unlike most Farer releases, which frequently have dramatic differences in hand-sets, hour markers, and dial textures within a single collection, these three watches are all very much “Landers” with the same numeral and hand design. The three colors include the much admired sea green, seen in what Farer is calling the Lander IV, or the Lander Classic, This watch has the same sunburst blue/green color that caught the attention of many watch enthusiasts in Farer’s early days, and set a tone for what to expect in terms of creative color combinations. The sea green dial is offset with a bright red GMT hand and an orange seconds hand, along with a white outer minute track. The next color in the new collection is Sea Coast, with a dial th...
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Watches of Hit HBO Series ‘Succession’, Two More Paul Newman Daytonas Discovered, The A-Tech Multi-Tool Keychain, & More
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Esquire Talking Watches With Succession’s Prop Master Monica Jacobs Via Esquire In one of the most recent Succession episodes, hearing Kendall Roy describe their new media-venture called The Hundred as, “Substack meets Masterclass meets the Economist meets the New Yorker.” remains as one of the many chuckle-worthy lines we’ve heard during this season thus far. Almost every character is capable of delivering such a line, especially Roman Roy, Tom Wambsgans and Greg Hirsch. Especially Greg. But in addition to the witty writing and awesome plot, as watch enthusiasts, it’s hard not to pay attention to what’s on the wrists of our favorite characters. Via Esquire In a recent Esquire interview, Prop Master Monica Jacobs spills all the details as to how some of these very particular, highly-specific watches made their way onto the show. The interview also digs into how each watch is chosen and how the character’s personality is reflected upon the watch they wear. For example, why does Roman Roy wear Rolex all the time, and what’s with Logan Roy sticking wi...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Diver Chronographs, Full Kits, & NOS Goodness
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster Jumbo Going to start this week off with a bang with this stellar vintage Omega Seamaster! This circa late 1950’s reference 2975-1 SC is simply gorgeous and not one you see too often. Seller calls it ‘jumbo’ in the title but it’s just under 35mm wide, which is a classic Seamaster size. The unpolished steel case has tapered lugs rather than the ‘fat lugs’ style, but honestly I love this case/lug style. The caseback is fantastic with the oversized and deeply engraved Hippocampus logo, which is really uncommon. The original dial has a nice, fairly even patina, and killer applied steel arrow markers. The steel dauphine hands have some oxidation on them, but overall the whole watch is a beauty. Correct crown with deep grooves. The caliber 500 automatic movement is clean and seller states it runs well. If you’re pining for a vintage Seamaster, check this one out! View auction here. Vintage Baylor Dive Chronograph Next up we have a nice vintage Baylor chronograph diver. I have no idea why the seller has the workd ‘Heuer’ in the title other than clickbait. The steel skindiver style case measures 37.5mm wide and looks unpolished but does exhibit light w...
Worn & Wound
A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic
When it comes to military watches, my mind draws a bold red line between two distinct types. First, there’s the batch that originates from the vintage kin. You know, the Dirty Dozen field watch, the stoic flieger, and of course the quintessential stainless steel diver. Then there’s the modern and robust digital watch equipped with the innovative case material and a slew of multi-functions that you’d need more than two hands to count. But the happy medium between the two has always been within Luminox, a brand that has fostered and maintained a partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs for three decades and counting. The latest addition to the Navy SEAL Luminox collection blends together a new case material and their patented Luminox Light Technology, while still keeping the spirit of analog time – it’s called the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic inspired by the Frogmen’s grind, grit, and durability. The Master Carbon SEAL Automatic utilizes a lightweight and rugged case made out of CARBONOX+. This forward-looking material boasts ultra-strong and weatherproof properties that in weight, equates to three times lighter than titanium. The unique feature that comes along with the “+” in the CARBONOX+ name is its stealthy gray tint which also displays the fingerprint-esque carbon fiber pattern that is individual to each watch. Except with the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic, the carbon fiber execution is much more subtle, displaying less of the white swirls we’ve seen in ot...
Worn & Wound
The New Ming 29.01 Worldtimer Starts Another New Chapter
Ming is back with a follow up to their 19.02 Worldtimer, released four years ago. That watch was something of a game-changer for Ming, adding a new complication to the brand’s repertoire, and served as an expansion of their design language. For the new 29.01 Worldtimer, Ming is once again taking a rather large step forward as the brand continues to refine their aesthetic and reimagine what a Ming can be. The concept of the new 29 series, according to Ming, is liquidity. The designs of watches in this new chapter, starting with the Worldtimer, will be defined by smooth, flowing lines, and an organic appearance. That, you might be thinking, kind of describes just about every Ming ever made. But on the 29.01 the brand has taken steps to make the watch appear seamless, as if it’s all of a single piece. The case does not have a bezel, for example, but the crystal is designed to merge directly into the case itself. The dial is quite complex and appears to be made of two pieces: a main sapphire dial and a 24 hour metallic dial with a gradient effect. Both are heavily lumed, the sapphire portion with HyCeram ceramic Super-LumiNova X1 lume, but they have been executed in such a way as to appear to be merged together. The use of sapphire in the dial itself, the large box crystal, and in the handset contributes to a sense that all of the dial components are floating across different levels, according to the brand. It’s honestly tough to make sense of in the photos, but we ima...
Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Adds a Retrograde Date Complication to the Overseas Collection
Last year’s big release from Vacheron Constantin, the reintroduction of the legendary 222, sparked all kinds of speculation that we’d get another variant of that sports watch at this year’s Watches & Wonders. Maybe one in steel? Or with new complications? As it turns out, we didn’t get a 222 of any kind this year, but VC paid respect to its contemporary integrated bracelet sports watch, a watch whose lineage can be traced back directly to the 222, by adding a complication that is deeply tied to the brand’s identity, a retrograde date display. It’s a first for the Overseas collection, which is itself kind of surprising. It’s one of those watches you can’t quite believe didn’t exist before now, and now that it’s here, it feels that much more well integrated with the rest of the collection. The new Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date features the same 41mm steel case profile that the brand has been using since the collection was relaunched in 2016. The Overseas, while pre-dating the hysteria for integrated bracelet sports watches by many years (the line was introduced in 1996) was part of a later group of integrated bracelet watches to really catch fire with collectors in the recent boom, following the Royal Oak and Nautilus, but ahead of watches like the newer Alpine Eagle from Chopard. It has a character that is distinct from its competitors, and is uniquely Vacheron, dominated by a complex notched bezel and less intense case geometry. The Overseas, mo...
SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX Titanium Ref. 226627
Ever since Rolex discreetly revealed the one-off Yacht-Master in titanium made for Olympic sailor Sir Ben Ainslie, enthusiasts have been waiting for the commercially-available equivalent (which got all the more likely after the release of the Rolex Deepsea Challenge last year). And now Rolex has finally done it with the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium. Similar to Sir Ben’s watch but with the addition of a date and matching titanium bracelet, the Yacht-Master 42 is perhaps the most restrained sports watch in the current Rolex catalogue. Initial thoughts Being a long-time fan of the Yacht-Master line, I’m glad to see this has finally arrived. Though large in size, it’s lighter and consequently more wearable. The muted colours and finish give it a no-fuss, contemporary look that sets it apart from the usual sports Rolex, but it retains the recognisable Yacht-Master style with its relief bezel. Perhaps the recognisable look is the only aspect to critique: the watch is little changed in terms of design from past Yacht-Master models (which were mostly in precious metals). The option of a rubber strap as seen on Sir Ben’s watch, for instance, would have given the Yacht-Master collection some variety. At CHF13,400, the Yacht-Master 42 is priced reasonably relative to other Rolex sports models. However, compared to the all-titanium offerings from Tudor – the Tudor Pelagos 39 is very, very similar – this is less of a value proposition, but it is still a Rolex. A mo...
Time+Tide
The HYT Conical Tourbillon is a visual blend of horology and science fiction
The new HYT Conical Tourbillon culminates HYT’s decade of technological advancement. Their exclusive mechanical fluidic technology blends seamlessly alongside traditional techniques such as glassblowing. The Conical Tourbillon is accentuated by a series of animated flying orbs. Despite a few rocky years including bankruptcy and resurrection, the unparalleled brand HYT is celebrating a decade of innovation … ContinuedThe post The HYT Conical Tourbillon is a visual blend of horology and science fiction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Reaction: Rolex Gets Silly With Colorful New Oyster Perpetual & Day-Date Dials
Rolex is always the talk of Watches & Wonders, but this year the conversation focused on an unlikely watch: an Oyster Perpetual with a “Celebration Dial,” a colorful and playful creation that seems very, well, unlike Rolex? But is it, really? It garnered a lot of attention, was immediately memed, and generated some of the most fiery takes of the show. The Worn & Wound editorial team, as you’d expect, has thoughts, so we weigh in on the new Oyster Perpetual, and a similarly colorful and offbeat Day-Date, below. Zach Kazan No matter how hard brands try to prevent them, leaks of new releases are inevitable. It happened again this year with Rolex, the biggest brand of all. And while we only had hastily shared Google search results to go off of, and no actual specs or even basic information about the watches themselves, the shuttle ride to Palexpo on Day 1 was dominated by talk of gumballs. The so-called “Celebration Dial” Oyster Perpetuals, along with the spiritually related “Jigsaw” Day-Date, are as whimsical as we’ve seen Rolex in recent years. Lefty GMT aside, this isn’t a brand known for its sense of humor. So a dial filled with colorful circles (51 is the official tally) that correspond with the colors of the most recent Oyster Perpetual refresh from about 3 years ago is bound to generate the hottest of takes. What I want to know from the haters is this: who decided Rolex can’t have fun? I guess if your version of Rolex is “luxury tool watches”...
Revolution
VIDEO: Wei Koh introduces stunning new watches by Vacheron Constantin
Revolution Founder Wei Koh professes his respect for Vacheron Constantin and its astute leader Louis Ferla. In recent years, Vacheron Constantin has enjoyed great success with the Overseas and the Patrimony collections. Wei presents the double retrograde complication that is now available on both these iconic watches. In this video, you’ll also get to see […]
Worn & Wound
Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908
Among the bevy of new Rolex watches released this year were a few unexpected watches, which isn’t a phrase we often mutter about the brand. We saw some unusually colorful dials (more on those later), and the launch of an entirely new formal collection called the Perpetual 1908, a reference to the brand’s name coinage by Wans Wilsdorf. With its introduction, the existing Cellini line has come to a close. The 1908 lives within the ‘classic’ range alongside the likes of the Oyster Perpetual and Sky-Dweller, but feels distinctly different from any existing line. Coming from a brand that’s been at the center of the sport watch craze over the past decade, the 1908 feels like a breath of fresh air. The Perpetual 1908 is a three hand time only watch offered only in 18k white or yellow gold. The trim case measures 39mm in diameter with a divided, partially fluted bezel framing the austere dial. Within resides the Rolex automatic caliber 7140, which gets a healthy amount of decoration worthy of being presented through an exhibition caseback. This is a new move from Rolex this year, appearing on both this watch, and the 60th anniversary platinum Daytona. The bridges of the 7140 receive a finish that the brand is calling “Rolex Côtes de Genève”, a re-interpretation of the classic technique seen often in Swiss movements. It differs from traditional Côtes de Genève in that it places a narrow polished groove between each of the parallel bands. Being a Rolex, there’s a...
Time+Tide
The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition
The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS honours the Alps further with a Monte Rosa inspired dial. The calibre L.U.C 96.40-L is only 3.3mm thick, with the watch totalling 8mm. It’s also the second of Chopard’s movements to be granted a Geneva Seal, the first being the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. If you want to see … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.