Hodinkee
Happenings: Artur Akmaev To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
Akmaev will discuss the art of hand engraving, enameling and high-end finishing.
Results for Monaco, McQueen, and Le Mans (1971)
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
Industry News – Reshuffle at LVMH; Frédéric Arnault Named CEO of LVMH Watches, Julien Tornare CEO of TAG Heuer
For some months now, we’ve heard and seen evidence that things were about to change at LVMH, a reshuffling strategy that industry insiders love to call the musical chairs of management. Things are now official as Julien Tornare, ex-CEO of Zenith, becomes CEO of TAG Heuer. He’s replaced in this role by Benoit de Clerck, […]
Deployant
A Month Long Love Affair: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Carbonium
Immediately after the Christmas Wishlist post, Santa Clémence granted writer Stanley's wish to get freaky with the Freak X Carbonium® over the holiday season and it was certainly an exciting journey that will unfold.
Monochrome
Introducing – Garrick Makes the Jump with the S2 Deadbeat Seconds
Traditional watchmaking is at the heart of British watchmaking institute Garrick. Ever since the brand’s foundation in 2015, the goal has been to rekindle the British style of mechanical watchmaking. Watchmaking in Great Britain has huge historical significance thanks to visionary people like Thomas Mudge, John Harrison, and many others. For Garrick, things have long […]
Time+Tide
Rolex kicks off 2024 with a special edition Day-Date in honour of the Vienna Philharmonic
We're barely one week into 2024 and yet another eclectic Rolex Day-Date 36 has been unveiled.The post Rolex kicks off 2024 with a special edition Day-Date in honour of the Vienna Philharmonic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Ball Skindiver III Beyond combines tritium gas lume with an impressive movement
Micro gas tubes, a manufacture movement, and a unique lumed bezel in a capable diver.The post The Ball Skindiver III Beyond combines tritium gas lume with an impressive movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Review: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Dragon”
Arriving just as the Dragon year begins in February, the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Dragon” is the latest illustration of the Geneva brand’s artisanal and technical capabilities, with a hand-engraved dragon sculpture on a grand feu enamel dial and an in-house calibre that indicates the time and calendar on discs. The “Year of the Dragon” is the final chapter in the brand’s Chinese Zodiac collection, an annual series of limited editions that began in 2012 with the rabbit. With the Chinese zodiac made up of a repeating 12-year cycle – with each year represented by an animal – the series reaches its conclusion with this dragon edition, which like its predecessors is available in either pink gold or platinum. Initial thoughts Dragon-themed watches have already started to proliferate with the incoming Year of the Dragon, simply because the dragon has the most universal appeal amongst all of the zodiac animals. It carries desirable symbolism across East Asia, as opposed to say, the rodent or pig, which have a niche audience. So the appeal of a dragon watch is arguably less about the motif, which is now common, but the execution. And here the Metiers d’Art “Year of the Dragon” excels in both presentation and technique. I’ve always been fond of Vacheron Constantin’s quadruple-disc display because it is both logical and attractive. The display makes sense because it leaves majority of the dial free fo...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw”
Last year, Heinrich introduced an eye-catching dial in an all new case. Each of Heinrich’s watches up to this point have been described as vintage inspired with strong 70s vibes.The Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” is no different, with the dial taking fairly direct inspiration from Universal Genève’s Unisonic “Buzzsaw” tuning fork watch from the late 1960s and ‘70s. Whether we will see a reincarnation of this design from Universal Genève under Breitling’s stewardship remains to be seen, but if you are crying out for a funky dial design at an affordable price, this could be the watch for you. The Helicoprion name comes from an extinct genus of shark-like fish, which had a spiral of teeth in its lower jaw – the teeth increasing in size as it spiraled outwards. This creature, along with Heinrich’s latest watch, has also been dubbed the “Buzzsaw” due to the similar circular tooth configuration seen on the blade of a circular saw. While the Universal Genève reference also saw each tooth shifting to a darker or lighter shade as they increased in size, the Heinrich Helicoprion dial markings are presented in a single color as the teeth grow between each hour (or five minute) index. $558 Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 or Sellita SW200 Dial Various Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Beads of rice bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 40 x 47.8mm Thickness 13.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty ...
Deployant
New: Swatch Year of the Dragon collection
Swatch releases 5 new watches to celebrate the Year of the Dragon, inspired by neon colours of Asian city street lights and signs.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Bell & Ross BR 03 Gyrocompass Puts a Flight Instrument on your Wrist
Last year marked an important milestone for Bell & Ross when the brand updated its iconic BR 03 collection after well over fifteen years of loyal service. The brand’s instrument-inspired collection is renowned for its extremely legible (in most cases) and recognizable design ethos based on a square case and a circular dial with a […]
SJX Watches
Longines Adds a GMT to the Master Collection, in 18k Gold
With recent releases well received, most notably the 190th Anniversary models and Small Seconds featuring engraved Breguet numerals, Longines’ Master Collection now gains a twin time zone offering with the Master Collection GMT, which is only available in 18k gold, for now. With the case in either yellow or rose gold, the GMT stands apart from its more affordable predecessors. It also diverges in terms of design, with applied Roman numerals instead of Breguet numerals. Initial thoughts The latest addition to the line continues the progressive facelifting of the Master Collection that gives existing models a sophisticated style. Though the range already included a GMT, it was in the older livery with a guilloche dial. The new GMT sticks to the classical aesthetic of the Master Collection, though it’s not quite as successful as the facelift applied to the rest of the line-up. Although elaborately done with applied numerals – which are solid gold to match the case – the dial is a bit old fashioned and feels uninspired. This is particularly obvious when compared to its time-only counterparts with their engraved Breguet numerals. That said, applying Breguet numerals to the GMT is a simple matter, and I would not be surprised to see that in the future. Because of the solid gold case, the Master Collection GMT costs US$14,750, which is well beyond the brand’s traditional price segment and where it does well. Even though this is a Longines with features usually found in ...
Time+Tide
Why Zodiac is the brand that won 2023
A pioneering dive watch brand and their contemporary endeavours won D.C. over in 2023.The post Why Zodiac is the brand that won 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Top 5 GADA Watches
The concept of a “watch enthusiast” who owns, trades, and collects them for the love of the game is a relatively new one. It’s a far cry from our forebears, who often had one go-to watch for most of life’s occasions. Over the years, however, as watches have transitioned from being truly indispensable daily tools to totems of style and storytelling, the GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) moniker remains a popular label for watches that can fulfill the “do-it-all” role that was so commonplace in the last century. While few of us can imagine ourselves as true one-watch aficionados, it’s satisfying to own a timepiece that just always works no matter the occasion. The appeal of these watches is easy to understand: they’re usually durable yet stylish and offer great value by fulfilling multiple roles. Here are five options from the Windup Watch Shop that we would consider GADA favorites; rest assured they’ll be with you wherever your adventures take you. The concept of a “watch enthusiast” who owns, trades, and collects them for the love of the game is a relatively new one. It’s a far cry from our forebears, who often had one go-to watch for most of life’s occasions. Over the years, however, as watches have transitioned from being truly indispensable daily tools to totems of style and storytelling, the GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) moniker remains a popular label for watches that can fulfill the “do-it-all” role that was so commonplace in the last ce...
Time+Tide
Who the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Eight Days is really for
Ultra-thin and ultra-luxe, but why does it exist?The post Who the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Eight Days is really for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Watches In The Wild: Thailand, Episode 2: We Flew Across The Country To See One Of The World's Greatest Pilot's Watch Collections
And we bring it to you now, in the second installment of our new video series.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Gold Longines Master Collection GMT
The Longines Master Collection has always been a discreet one. Classic, timeless design with nothing truly groundbreaking to report. Sure, these were elegant and restrained models but they could live with a bit more extravagance. In late 2022 and again last year, Longines decided to do exactly that, with the release of a series of […]
Deployant
New: Longines Master Collection GMT
Longines adds two new GMT references to their classical Master Collection in yellow gold and rose gold. Both limited editions of 500 pieces each.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Girard-Perregaux’s True Constant-Force Escapement
Ten years after it arrived on market, Girard-Perregaux revived its most notable modern-day invention with the Neo Constant Escapement. Operating on the same principles as the original, the Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) features an upgraded movement inside a more compact case. A combination of a historical concept originating with Abraham-Louis Breguet and cutting edge horology, the NCE retains the defining invention of the original – a true constant-force escapement. “True” because the constant-force mechanism, comprising a lozenge-shaped silicon spring, is integrated with the pallet lever, which in turn interacts with a “natural” escapement of twin escape wheels. While the key concept has been retained, the rest of the NCE, however, has been improved over the original, with wearability in particular having been enhanced. Initial thoughts The fundamental concept of the NCE is appealing because it successfully combines a significant historical invention, Breguet’s double-wheel escapement, with an innovation that is entirely 21st century, a compliant mechanism in silicon. Both are brought together in an elegant yet ingenious manner. The basis of the movement is Breguet’s échappement naturel, the “natural” escapement with two wheels that has been adopted in the modern day, in a variety of modified forms, by Voutilainen, F.P. Journe, and Charles Frodsham. But the natural escapement here has been enhanced with a constant force mechanism made up of a single pi...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Glashütte Original Lady Serenade Valentine’s Day 2024
For Valentine’s Day 2024, Glashütte Original gives its Lady Serenade model a romantic makeover with diamonds and a delicate mother-of-pearl dial with gradient pink-hued numerals. Combining traditional Saxon pragmatism in the form of a robust stainless steel case and an in-house automatic movement, the three-hand-and-date Lady Serenade is a limited edition of 50 pieces. The […]
Time+Tide
Clean up your act in the new year with the AIS Collective ChronoPen Watch Cleaning Kit
Don't start 2024 off with a dirty watch - invest in one of these clever, gentle and effective watch cleaners.The post Clean up your act in the new year with the AIS Collective ChronoPen Watch Cleaning Kit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Style Section: The Royal Oak Offshore Is Due For A Resurgence
Our Style Editor makes a case for the return of the Offshore and what its success in the '00s can teach us about pushing watch design forward in 2024.
Teddy Baldassarre
101 Best Men's Watches For Every Price Range in 2026
What are the best men's watches you can buy today? As with listing the "best" cars, wines, cookware, or mobile devices, answers will of course vary widely based on personal tastes, practical needs, and budgets. Whether your inclination runs to elegant and dressy timepieces that will impress your coworkers in the boardroom, or if you prefer a tougher, stylish-yet-practical watch that you can wear to the beach or the racetrack, or even if you're someone looking to fly your tech-nerd flag in your wrist, our massive compilation of the 101 best men's watches - incorporating brands and models nominated by various TB team members and covering numerous styles, price points, and categories - has you covered in just about every popular category. To keep it helpful, we arrange every category in ascending order of price. Our current compilation of the 101 Best Watches includes longstanding classics as well as watches released within the last year. Check back in for regular updates and/or additions to the list. CLASSIC CHRONOGRAPHS Bulova Lunar Pilot Price: $825, Case Size: 46mm, Thickness: 13.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 52mm, Water Resistance: 50m, Movement: Quartz Bulova 262kHz, Crystal: Sapphire The Bulova Lunar Pilot is an homage to the Bulova chronograph worn by U.S. astronaut Dave Scott on the Moon during the Apollo 15 mission. Visually, the new Lunar Pilot is a faithful recreation, retaining the curvy case shape and distinctive elongated pushers of the original. The dial i...
Teddy Baldassarre
Here Are the 28 Best GMT Watches You Can Buy in 2026
Among all the functions offered by today's timepieces (we in the watch trade call them complications, because even the ones that look relatively simple, like a date in a window, involve a lot of complex micro-mechanics), the GMT or second time zone is one of the most practical and useful - especially as many of us are back in the habit, post-COVID, of spending time again in time zones other than our own - for business, pleasure, or some combo of both. Here we've gathered 28 of the best GMT watches on the market now for your perusal and your consideration if you're in the market for a ticking companion for your next trip. To narrow the list and keep it manageable, we are keeping it as much as possible to "pure" GMT watches, i.e., those with a GMT hand pointing at a scale rather than some other unconventional display, which unfortunately excludes models like the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone, Parmigiani Tonda Hemispheres, Arnold & Son Globetrotter, and any number of very creative high-end takes on a dual-timer. We've also left out world-time watches, GMT watches' more complex cousins that display all the world's time zones simultaneously (you can check out our list of world timers here) and multiple-complication watches in which the GMT function is paired with a chronograph, perpetual calendar, or other high complications (small complications like dates are OK). Finally, we included only watches with mechanical movements, which are more likely to appeal to a wo...
Time+Tide
Rolex went a little crazy in 2023 – these were their top 5 most headline-snatching watches
The normally very conservative brand let its proverbial hair down in 2023 with some seriously wacky (and significant) watch releases.The post Rolex went a little crazy in 2023 – these were their top 5 most headline-snatching watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Casio G-SHOCK Aim High Series
Casio G-SHOCK introduces the Aim High series, a new collection of timepieces with futuristic designs inspired by virtual reality and action video games.
Time+Tide
The Time+Tide team pick their favourite release of 2023
We look back to all the releases of 2023, and pick the very best.The post The Time+Tide team pick their favourite release of 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – The Artya Son of Earth Dome Collection
The world of Yvan Arpa is one of boundless imagination. Flamboyant and unpredictable, he breathes life into timepieces, which under the brand Artya, defy convention and embrace a daring uniqueness. True to its name, the Dome collection captivates with its sculptural domed sapphire crystal, protecting distinctive dials, some crafted from natural materials, ensuring that no […]
Time+Tide
The three watches Jamie wore most in 2023 – Citizen, Tudor, Lip
French, Swiss and Japanese - Jamie's 2023 high rotation contains multitudes.The post The three watches Jamie wore most in 2023 – Citizen, Tudor, Lip appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
10 Best Watch Winders for Any Collector's Budget in 2026
If you own any automatic watches at all, especially enough of them to ensure that you’re not wearing the same one daily, you will inevitably face the issue of keeping those watches running, and set to the proper time and date, when they’re not on your wrist. Some collectors choose to simply commit to re-winding and re-setting their automatic watches when their power reserve runs down - it’s a ritual that many traditionalists actually enjoy - but others would rather invest in some high-tech hardware to lend a hand. Here is where a watch winder comes in. These helpful and often luxuriously appointed machines are designed to store your precious self-winding timepieces while also keeping them charged via electronic, motorized rotations - the timing, direction, and duration of which can often be pre-set and monitored - that mimic the natural movement of a wearer’s wrist. For those ready to dip their toe into the wide world of watch winders, we’ve gathered 10 favorites from 10 brands representing as wide a variety as possible in terms of styles, sizes, and price points. Wolf Roadster 4PC Watch Winder ($2,095) Wolf watch winders, known for their fusion of leather, wood, glass, and steel, work on a 24-hour cycle, with six-hour periods of intermittent activity followed by “sleep” periods that allow the tension in the watches’ mainsprings to ease, avoiding over-winding. Fifty different cycles are possible, allowing the owner to specify factors such as direc...
SJX Watches
Inside Akrivia – Artisanal Manufacturing in Geneva
Followers of high-end independent watchmaking are likely familiar with Akrivia and its founder, Rexhep Rexhepi. Akrivia’s work, especially its finishing, has earned widespread acclaim and record auction results. Paradoxically the brand got off to slow start at its founding in 2012. Akrivia only rocketed to prominence with the launch of the Chronomètre Contemporain in 2018 and has been on the ascent ever since. Now just getting into its second decade, Akrivia has achieved a level of success that often proves elusive to upstart independent watchmakers, many of which have come and gone in the past few years. This success is due to numerous factors, but key among them is the brand’s demonstrated ability to evolve and improve. I recently had the opportunity to visit the brand’s workshops in Geneva’s Old Town to see how far Akrivia has come and get a hint of what’s in store for the future. Akrivia today Today, the brand employs 20 staff, up from just 10 in 2021. Considering its annual production of around 40 watches per year, this puts Akrivia in good company among the most artisanal brands in the industry. It would be tempting to look at this headcount growth and predict that production will soon increase, but that’s not the case. While the team of watchmakers has grown slightly – it now stands at eight – most of the added roles are go bring more manufacturing capabilities in-house and accelerate product development, along with a few administrative positions. M...