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TAG Heuer Apr 26, 2021

Remontet Introduces the Time Capsule

Located in the town of Renaison, a five-hour drive south of Paris, Horlogerie V Remontet is named after its founder, Valentin Remontet. A young watchmaker who who spent three years at TAG Heuer and then Breguet before striking out on his own, Mr Remontet started his brand with conventional, round watches powered by ETA movements. He has since moved on to watches that are inventive and modern in style and construction. Mr Remontet’s latest is the Time Capsule, a avant-garde watch that has an unorthodox regulator-style display along with unconventional hourstriker. Initial thoughts With the fashion of the day in niche independent watchmaking being classical watchmaking with a heavy Breguet numerals or a “sector” dial, Mr Remontet’s watch is decidedly bold – and also impressive. Its aesthetic is highly technical, and matched by genuinely creative mechanics. The movement is clearly an original construction, even if it does use some components from common calibres. The style is certainly not for everyone – I find it a bit too extreme – but the fresh, bold nature of the Time Capsule is impressive. And the €17,000 price, which is about US$21,000, is fair considering the work in both development and manufacture. Preserving a memory Mr Remontet works along, and fabricates much of the watch himself – including the gaskets for the case – with some components produced by a French micro-machining specialist in micro machining. As a result, Mr Remontet says about 90...

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SJX Watches

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Apr 26, 2021

Living With: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41

I’m familiar with IWC pilot’s watches, having once owned a Mark XVII, which I bought as the quintessential flieger watch. But the Mark XVII didn’t last too long in my collection because it is very much military-inspired, and I’m not much of a military man, making it hard for me to connect with the design. When I got the chance to test drive the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 (ref. IW3881) – the latest version of IWC’s longstanding bestseller – I figured it was an opportunity to see if the fliegerchronograph would appeal to me where the time-only Mark XVII did not. Initial thoughts On paper, the 41 mm Pilot’s Watch Chronograph is an evolution rather than a revolution, perhaps unsurprising given how popular successive versions of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph have been over the three decades they have been in the catalogue. The various elements that make up the watch are familiar – the blue dial can be found on the larger “Le Petit Prince” Pilot’s Watch Chronograph from 2016, while the cal. 69000-family movement inside a reduced, 41 mm case was exactly the revamped Spitfire Pilot’s Watch Chronograph launched in 2019. But still, the new chronograph manages to be a whole that’s greater than the sum of its parts. While constituent parts might be similar, but they arguably work better together here than in any prior watch. I was surprised at how much I liked the watch. For one, the 41 mm case is significantly more wearable than the previous-g...

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Time+Tide

Cartier Pasha Chronograph 41mm Apr 26, 2021

Modernising the Mad Hatter vibe of the Cartier Pasha Chronograph 41mm

To many people’s bewilderment, 2020 saw the rebirth of the Pasha de Cartier. While I happily count myself amongst the Pasha’s staunch fans, I had understood why it was originally discontinued. The styling is almost indecipherable, its origin tale lending us to believe that it was originally made in the early 1930s for the Pasha … ContinuedThe post Modernising the Mad Hatter vibe of the Cartier Pasha Chronograph 41mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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WatchAdvice

Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Apr 25, 2021

Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Review

Pros: Unlike previous models, Full skeleton on display – best one to date Bang for buck Skeleton watchBeautifully executed – Cleanly laid out dial and attention to detail on the bridges Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 8/10Wearability – 8.5/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8/10  Cons: Some may miss the second handSome may not appreciate having no hour IndicatorsCaseback is fully blacked out, the rotor isn’t as clearly visible Raymond Weil’s latest skeleton watch comes in the form of the Freelancer 42mm Full Skeleton Calibre RW1212. Skeleton watches present a unique interpretation of watchmaking, where sometimes everything is removed down to the bare minimum to showcase nothing but just the movement and the time.  There is something about a skeleton watch that just grabs attention. Whether it’s the human curiosity to want to know what goes on behind closed doors or whether it’s the fascination of seeing all the intricate pieces come together to create something complex yet beautiful, skeletonised timepieces can awaken the watch fanatic in all of us.  This however does not mean that skeleton watches can always be so easy to read. Quite a common pitfall with skeletonised timepieces is that sometimes watchmakers get too caught up in the movement of the watch that they negate being able to read the time. This is mainly due to the fact that the hour indexes and hands can blend in with the movement, which can make it quite hard to read the dial at a ...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Apr 25, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard is an elegant take on military vintage

Eschewing the pretence of diving or sports, the pure military inspiration behind the new York & Front Burrard is pretty close to being the perfect functional tool watch. It’s a daily wearer with a distinctive style that comes in any colour you want, as long as it’s black or white. Sized at 38mm for textbook … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard is an elegant take on military vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Audemars Piguet collection Apr 25, 2021

Tasting Notes: Going hands-on with the 2021 Audemars Piguet collection

With my one year anniversary with the Time+Tide team on the horizon, the only drawback has been that the pandemic inhibited all the in-person interaction I really craved. What I love about the watch community is being able to meet up, whether with members of the industry or #watchfam community, and nerd out for hours … ContinuedThe post Tasting Notes: Going hands-on with the 2021 Audemars Piguet collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Apr 25, 2021

What the Oscars could tell us about the future of men’s watches

Listen, I don’t want to cast aspersions on your immaculate dress sense. But I suspect that you’re not reading this while wearing a tuxedo, a white silk scarf draped over your shoulders with devil-may-care panache. No, please don’t apologise. To tell you the truth, I’m wearing my tracksuit pants, too. During the last 12 months … ContinuedThe post What the Oscars could tell us about the future of men’s watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre Apr 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque)

With nearly 40 brands presenting novelties this Watches & Wonders, it can be quite the challenge to present a novelty that stands out amongst the crowd. After speaking with various members of the press, and #watchfam on instagram and clubhouse, it has become abundantly clear that the horological champion of the fair was Jaeger-LeCoultre. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Audemars Piguet Apr 23, 2021

Usher flexes his spectacular Purnell watches worth more than $450k

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. Too often in the realm of celebrity watch spotting we are subject to the usual suspects: Rolex, Patek Phillipe, Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille. There is nothing wrong with that, as we all admire and desire watches from those brands. But it is far more interesting … ContinuedThe post Usher flexes his spectacular Purnell watches worth more than $450k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Revolution

Apr 23, 2021

Wei Koh’s Top Picks from Watches and Wonders 2021

Held in April 2021, the digital version of Watches and Wonders showcased elegant and uplifting collections that indicated a new sensitivity among participating brands to the desires and concerns of today’s watch collectors.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Audemars Piguet watches from hotel rooms Apr 23, 2021

Las Vegas ‘prostitute’ with lion tattoo stole Rolex and Audemars Piguet watches from hotel rooms

If you happen to find yourself in Las Vegas and find yourself with an attractive young woman with a lion tattoo on her thigh, keep a close eye on your watch. That’s the early take-home from a case that will go before a Sin City court next month in which two men had luxury watches … ContinuedThe post Las Vegas ‘prostitute’ with lion tattoo stole Rolex and Audemars Piguet watches from hotel rooms appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

TAG Heuer Monaco Green Limited Edition Apr 22, 2021

HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer Monaco Green Limited Edition is a fumé fantasy

The TAG Heuer Monaco is a classic in every sense of the word. I mean, Steve McQueen famously wore it on the silver screen and if you’re looking for an endorsement from the King of Cool, it doesn’t get much better than that. The Monaco has been a collection that has regularly been refreshed in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer Monaco Green Limited Edition is a fumé fantasy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Two Broke Watch Snobs

Two Broke Watch Snobs

Apr 22, 2021

Exploring the Pacific Coast with the Coast Pacific Explorer

When designing watches at these lower price points, tradeoffs certainly need to be made. Here, Coast has traded a plain-ish case profile and slightly-better-than-middle-of-the-road finish quality for myriad thoughtful convenience features.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Grand Seiko ContinuedThe post FRIDAY Apr 22, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN – THE GREEN EDITION #2: We did a list of (almost) all of the green watches of 2021

If you hate the colour green, it’s probably time to find another hobby. Almost every single major watch brand on the planet has released a watch with a green dial since the start of the year. It seems that the seeds that were sown in 2020 with watches like the Longines HydroConquest Khaki Green, Grand Seiko … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN – THE GREEN EDITION #2: We did a list of (almost) all of the green watches of 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Ulysse Nardin Freak X It latest Apr 22, 2021

Qatar Watch Club Teams Up with Hermès for Special Edition Arceau

Since its founding three years ago, Qatar Watch Club (QWC) has collaborated with several watchmakers on special editions that paid tribute to its home country. The first was a Chopard L.U.C GMT with a burgundy dial – the primary colour of Qatar’s national flag – then a Tudor Pelagos featuring the country name in Arabic script, and most recently a Ulysse Nardin Freak X. It latest project is a tie-up with Hermès that resulted in special edition of the Arceau. Limited to 40 pieces, the Hermès Arceau Qatar Watch Club features an ebene, or “ebony”, dial that reflects the shared equestrian history of both the Parisian saddle maker and the Gulf state. Initial thoughts The watch is very much Hermès in nature and execution. Though distinctive, it is discreet. One of Hermès’ most distinctive models, the Arceau was first conceived in 1978, with its asymmetrical case inspired by a stirrup. The italicised Breguet numerals are stylish, giving the watch subtle flair. Equally subtle is the herringbone-textured dial that brings to mind Hermès fabric. The ebene dial colour is noteworthy. Rich in tone when executed right, brown is relatively uncommon in today’s watches, especially when green and blue seem to be the colours du jour. Long a colour associated with horse riding – Hermès saddles and riding boots can often be found in ebene – it is also a popular shade for the brand’s iconic Birkin bags. Coupled with orange accents – the five-minute markers and the...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Panerai Luminor Logo PAM 1084 Apr 22, 2021

Living With: Panerai Luminor Logo PAM 1084

I admit that I wasn’t much of a Panerai fan. Nothing against the brand – it’s just that large, military-inspired watches aren’t my cup of tea. However, I’ve always been intrigued by the loyalty and enthusiasm that the brand engenders in Paneristi, its most loyal aficionados. In a nod to that following, Panerai launched a limited edition for the 20th anniversary of the Paneristi forum last year – the sixth watch created for the community. Few brands have their own watch forum, much less one that has lasted two decades. Clearly, there’s a lot of love for Panerai watches, and I’ve always wondered what lay behind that. When Panerai offered me the chance to test-drive the Luminor Logo 44 mm PAM01084, the latest version of its entry-level model, it was the perfect opportunity to venture outside my comfort zone and see what Panerai is all about. Initial thoughts The PAM 1084 is very much what I had expected. Let’s start with the positives. One is a utilitarian and eminently legible dial that is quintessentially Panerai – I never had an issue telling the time. Another is the classic Panerai case with its signature, oversized crown-lock bridge. And at 44 mm, it has significant wrist presence, but doesn’t feel overly large due to its short, sloping lugs. There is substantial heft to the watch, but it comes across as reassuring rather than bulky. And despite being one of the most affordable references in Panerai’s current lineup, the PAM 1084 retains much of...

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe watches Apr 21, 2021

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire

One of Franck Muller’s bestselling models, the Vanguard is a modern take on the brand’s signature Cintree Curvex case. Already available in a bewildering variety of sizes, complications, and materials, the line now gets one of its most interesting iterations yet – the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire. Featuring a clear sapphire crystal case, the new Vanguard is interesting beyond its colours and shape. Inside is a hand-wind, in-house movement with a seven-day power reserve. And in the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire Color Dreams, the movement bridges are anodised in a multitude of colours. The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire Color Dreams Initial thoughts The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire is typical of modern-day Franck Muller watches – large and flamboyant, especially in the Color Dreams livery. But it also reflects Franck Muller being a vertically-integrated brand – an accomplishment not widely recognised by aficionados – with the in-house form movement that has a weeklong power reserve. With black-coated bridges While the shape of the case is reminiscent of Richard Mille, Franck Muller is the brand responsible for making the tonneau case popular in contemporary watchmaking. The Cintree Curvex was inspired by tonneau-shaped Cartier and Patek Philippe watches of the early 20th century, and became one of the “it” watches of the 1990s. But the new Vanguard’s retail price of about US$150,000 is too much – by a large margin. Skeleton sapphire The Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire i...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Casio G-Shock smartwatch alternative Apr 21, 2021

The Casio G-Shock smartwatch alternative is here with the G-Shock GSW-H1000

Can the Casio G-Shock GSW-H1000 cause an upset in the smartwatch market? For me, living in Norway where most of my mates are very outdoorsy (you try telling them you don’t like skiing), I’m already seeing a scary decline in mechanical watches.   Everyday at the office for many translates to a naked wrist or an … ContinuedThe post The Casio G-Shock smartwatch alternative is here with the G-Shock GSW-H1000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Audemars Piguet Equation Apr 21, 2021

Becoming Horological Art: My Transformational Experience With Alexa Meade And The Audemars Piguet Equation Of Time – Reprise

It would be relatively easy, and pretty interesting, for GaryG to tell you the story of his two days one summer with artist Alexa Meade and her team. And he’ll get to that, but there’s more: the flood of sensations and emotions that came from considering why time and space are so important to him and from inhabiting a work of art that melded GaryG's vision of himself with the artist’s interpretation and self-expression. And there was even a watch.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Chronoswiss Apr 20, 2021

5 Colorful New Watches By Chronoswiss From Watches & Wonders 2021

Back in 1988, Chronoswiss was the first brand to bring the regulator display to the wrist. Recently at Watches & Wonders 2021 the company presented several new regulator-style watches in a variety of stunning colors and techniques. Anders Modig shares five of his favorites here.

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Apr 20, 2021

Conversations: Wilhelm Schmid of Lange on New Launches and Allocation

With A. Lange & Söhne having unveiled a compact line-up of new models – just three strong – at Watches & Wonders 2021, I had assumed my chat with its chief executive Wilhelm Schmid would be similarly concise. But last week’s video interview turned out to be more interesting, because we went on to discuss Lange’s strategy for distribution and allocation. Mr Schmid outlined the new models for 2021 (so far), and then detailed the tweaks to the brand’s retail strategy – in the face of overwhelming demand for certain models, and shortages due to pandemic-induced disruptions. The discussion is worth a read for a Lange aficionado, but also more broadly for anyone interested in a well-reasoned explanation of how a watch brand has to balance all of the factors involved in getting a desirable watch onto the wrist of a client. Wilhelm Schmid, working from home The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Lange only introduced three models at Watches & Wonders, but they were all warmly received – I liked them myself. Tell us about how the new watches came about. Wilhelm Schmid: So for this year, we decided to go back to the core of the business, which is always the Lange 1. We launched the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in 2013, which was a great watch, because of its two big complications. But we also realized that we were running our Langematik Perpetual Calendar since 2001, almost 20 years, well, actually 20 years this year. That was the only standal...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Vacheron Constantin Writing Apr 20, 2021

Le Temps Celeste, 3 pieces of next-level craftsmanship from the inner sanctum of Vacheron Constantin

Writing this I feel the need to put on a double-breasted suit. But even then, I suspect that I still wouldn’t feel suitably attired for an encounter with Le Temps Celeste, a trio of wrist art within Les Cabinotiers, Vacheron’s upper echelon of historical and ultra-complex timepieces. Consider these mere examples of the bespoke possibilities … ContinuedThe post Le Temps Celeste, 3 pieces of next-level craftsmanship from the inner sanctum of Vacheron Constantin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Apr 19, 2021

If you like high horology, you’ll love this cannabis watch that celebrates 4:20 right

Kickstarter can be a great place to find the weird and wonderful watches of tomorrow, as new brands battle for funding on what is basically a marketplace of ideas. A new player in the watch game who just hit their funding target is MVMNT, a brand who produces a range of different products with one … ContinuedThe post If you like high horology, you’ll love this cannabis watch that celebrates 4:20 right appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Bell & Ross Rado Apr 19, 2021

4 Rad Red Watches From Omega, Bell & Ross, Rado, And Oris

In recent years, the world of high-end watches has become a far more colorful place. We have evolved from decades of conservatism in which a blue dial was daring to a kaleidoscopic era where anything is possible. And now it's red's turn, which has the advantage of the richness of hues available. Here Martin Green looks at 4 new red-dialed watches from Bell & Ross, Oris, Rado, and Omega.

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R Revolution

Revolution

Apr 19, 2021

The Complete History of the Chronograph Movement Part 2: 1990s – 2000s

From high performance to haute horlogerie, we take a look at the extraordinary calibers that have redefined the chronograph since the 1990s.

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D Deployant

Deployant

Apr 19, 2021

The best from Watches & Wonders 2021: a collector’s top 5

Here is our Reader Contribution to round up the "Best of" series on Watches and Wonders 2021. Kunal Khemka picks his top 5.

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Apr 19, 2021

Torsti Laine Introduces the G3 and V38

A Finnish watchmaker in Switzerland, Torsti Laine has become known for his affordable watches with custom-made dials and attractively modified Unitas movements. Now he is simultaneously unveiling his next generation of watches. One is the Laine G3, an improved version of his bestselling model that’s now available with dials comprised of various materials. It continues to be powered by a Unitas calibre, but now even more elaborately decorated with relief engraving on the three-quarter plate. And the second is the Laine V38, an entirely new model that’s smaller and slimmer thanks to the automatic Vaucher VMF 5401 inside. Like the G3, it will be offered with a variety of mix-material dials. The LA18.1 with its new three-quarter plate decoration Initial thoughts Appealing for the high level of customisation and good finishing, Mr Laine’s watches have long been an accessible yet respectable entry into the world of independent watchmaking. His new models continue to offer the qualities that made his earlier watches a success, while adding a bit more to the mix in terms of finishing and choice. The variety of dial styles and materials will be the biggest selling point, while the new movement engraving might be unnecessarily fancy. The V38, in particular, is something that Mr Laine never offered before in terms of size, which should make it the most appealing to buyers wanting something more classically sized. The V38 With the G3 starting at CHF8,500, the new models are more...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Apr 19, 2021

Ice, ice baby: The best gem set watches from Watches & Wonders

Gems, dazzle, diamonds and pizzazz. This year we have seen a delectable tableau of precious stones within, around, and pavèd on some of the flashiest new watches shown at Watches & Wonders. And while the entire Phygital viewing experience does leave a lot to be desired, the top maisons have managed to convey the blend … ContinuedThe post Ice, ice baby: The best gem set watches from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Sinn Introduces Apr 18, 2021

Sinn Introduces the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S

Typically known for making utilitarian, military-inspired watches, Sinn breaks away from its trademark aesthetic with the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S, adding a touch of luxe to the smaller sibling of its best-selling U1 dive watch. Initial thoughts Billed as a unisex version of the U1, the U50 has a 41 mm diameter. Though not a small watch in itself, it is substantially smaller than the full-sized, 44 mm U1. With the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S, it is clear that Sinn is trying to appeal to female buyers – a segment that the brand, with its usually large “tool” watches must have had difficulty wooing. I find the unusual combination of the blacked-out case and mother-of-pearl dial to work well. The all-black aesthetic is stealthy, the very sort of look right at home on a no-nonsense tool watch. In contrast, the mother-of-pearl dial is striking, with an iridescence is highly attractive and appealing to females looking for sports watch that has a little bit more sparkle. The paradoxical combination gives the new U50 an intriguing look, which I must confess to liking this much more than the regular U50 S. Starting at €2,750 on a rubber strap, the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S is just a tad pricier than the regular U50 S. Given that it is also limited to just 500 pieces, it’s good value for those looking for a more stylish Sinn dive watch. Pretty but robust Despite the shimmering mother-of-pearl dial, the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S remains robustly built, as most Sinn watches are....

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Time+Tide

Casio ns” Apr 18, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Is the Hegid Mirage the first interchangeable case system with a Swiss movement?

Variety is the spice of life – we all love to change things up. As a result, to many enthusiasts the mere idea of the “Exit Watch” or the “one watch for all occasions” is a frankly laughable concept. How many of us finally obtain that elusive grail only to start hankering for another piece … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Is the Hegid Mirage the first interchangeable case system with a Swiss movement? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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