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Revolution
Besides the new Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS with salmon dial, Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF, and L.U.C. 1860, Chopard also introduced several stunning versions of the Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph at Watches and Wonders 2023. Inspired by the legendary Mille Miglia race, this 40.5mm Lucent Steel timepiece is now available in colors like light […]
Worn & Wound
Does the TAG Heuer Carrera really need an introduction? Well, I suppose to be thorough. One of the iconic motorsport chronographs, it was launched in 1963, deftly combining the sleekness and excitement of the sport that inspired it. While over the decades there have been many variations and evolutions to the Carrera, the original 2447 from 1963 has always served as a source for the brand to go back to when reinvigorating the line. This year is the 60th anniversary of the Carrera, which they already began celebrating back in January with the release of a model that stayed very close to that original reference, though with general modern updates. While that model goes literally back to the Carreras roots, the newly launched Carrera 39mm “glassbox” mixes modern and vintage details into one of the most attractive packages from TAG in some time. There are three models to the collection, two 39mm three-register chronos, and a 42mm chrono-tourbillon. Focusing on the former, the fact that these non-revival, non-limited Carreras are at 39mm is the first aspect to celebrate. This size, while not small by today’s standards nor the same as the original (it was 36mm), is small for TAG, whose modern chronographs are generally 41 – 45mm. I suspect, however, there is a reason for this. As the title “glassbox” literally states, these Carrera’s have large domed sapphire crystals. Like, really large. While it is said they are inspired by the domed Hesalite crystals of 70s Carre...
Worn & Wound
This year, Hermès has expanded their H08 line with their Watches & Wonders novelties, adding several new colors to the base model in their composite case material, as well as a very impressive monopusher chronograph. Hermès is a favorite meeting at Watches & Wonders. The brand has a history that sits well outside traditional Swiss watchmaking culture. As a luxury design house, they are primarily known for their leather work, and the iconography of the brand is largely associated with their roots in equestrian sports. They have greatly expanded their watchmaking reach in recent years, however, with Vaucher supplied movements and a series of winning designs that have legitimized the brand in the watchmaking space. The H08 was introduced two years ago as the “sporty-chic” Hermès sports watch. This year’s new introductions feature the brand’s very interesting composite material, made from a mix of carbon fiber and graphene powder. The result is a lightweight 39mm case that Hermès claims is resistant to wear, and it has a unique textured appearance that looks almost hammered by hand but is smooth to the touch (Hermès says it’s coated with aluminum and slate powder). Whether or not the aesthetic is appealing will be a largely subjective matter, but the case has a great weight and feel on the wrist, and the cushion shape is comfortable and seems well suited to casual, daily wear. The case is accented with a black ceramic bezel that makes for a great contrast with...
Deployant
Bell & Ross is off to a good start with three novelties for this week, and many more throughout the year culminating in an exciting piece scheduled for Nov.
Quill & Pad
Let us be honest; there are already quite a few high-end, time only watches in stainless steel with an integrated bracelet design to choose from. So what possesses a brand to enter this market with yet another model? I have no idea, but Martin Green is glad Zenith took this bold move last year with the Defy Skyline.
SJX Watches
Cartier has long mined its extensive archives for inspiration, particularly for the Privé collection of historically-inspired watches. Having revived the Tank Asymetrique and Cloche, the jeweller now turns to the first-ever Tank with the Privé Tank Normale. Like past Privé models, the new Normale faithfully adheres to the historical original, but unlike other Privé models, it is offered with the option of a matching, precious-metal bracelet. Initial thoughts Like last year’s Privé Tank Chinoise, the Tank Normale is less familiar than say, the Tank Cintree, having been discontinued for some time. Although the Tank Normale was the original Tank design of 1917, it has been out of the catalogue for long enough to have some novelty. The Tank Normale stays true to the original in almost all respects. The case, for instance, is marginally larger than vintage examples but compact enough it feels like a vintage watch. Even the bevelled sapphire crystal mimics the glass on the originals. But the watch incorporates modest tweaks that set it apart as a modern watch, like the expanded railway minute track. These design updates reveal a good attention to detail in updating the watch without changing too much. Especially noteworthy is the bracelet, an option rarely offered by Cartier for its high-end men’s watches. It’s executed well in both design and build, while also being acceptably priced as such things go (although pricey in absolute terms). The OG Tank The Tank Norma...
SJX Watches
In 2012, Tudor broke the ground by introducing the Black Bay, a steel dive watch whose attractive design and price point have always offered a value proposition for enthusiasts. Through the years, the format has been updated from its larger 41 mm case down to 39 mm, as seen in the Black Bay 58. Today, the brand has dropped the Black Bay 54 with a new, smaller 37 mm case. While its design is nearly identical to its larger sibling, the reduced size of the new Black Bay makes it more wearable. Initial thoughts The 37 mm size of the new Black Bay 54 really sets it apart – perfect for those who prefer a classic look and slimmer watches. Its sophisticated simplicity makes it appropriate for both genders without sacrificing the utilitarian styling that has made the lineup popular through the years. As is typical for Tudor, the value proposition is outstanding. At CHF3,450 in steel on a rubber strap (and slightly more with its matching bracelet), it is priced competitively against comparable sports watches. The combination of vintage-inspired design, excellent build quality, and affordable price point makes the new Black Bay 54 a winner. Vintage-inspired but in a more compact case While the original Black Bay was 41 mm, the 54 is considerably smaller but wears well on the wrist. It takes inspiration from an earlier diver from Tudor’s history, the Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7922 that was issued primarily to the French and American navies but was later used by civilian tech...
SJX Watches
Adding to its diverse line-up of travel watches, Patek Philippe has just taken the wraps off the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R. A bold design, the ref. 5224R is Patek Philippe’s most novel travel watch to date. It is notable for having a 24-hour display inspired by the Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches made for Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau in the early twentieth century. Initial thoughts The ref. 5224R is instantly striking thanks to the high contrast between the dial colour and rose gold case, busy dial design, and large, thin case. Though it is in essence a three-hander with an extra second time zone hand, it is far more interesting, even intimidating due to the 44 applied indices that give the dial something of an instrument-like appearance. The 24-hour display elevates the quirkiness of the design, which arguably strengthens the overall aesthetic. Admittedly, this comes at a cost of legibility – it is not the most intuitive watch to read. It takes a while to get used to, so reliability will be an issue if one is rotating between different watches in his or her collection. More surprising is the case size, which at 42 mm is massive for Patek Philippe. It is also unusual given the traditional case design, although the large case emphasises the slimness of the case. The large size is likely intentional to provide space for the applied numerals, and is perhaps rooted in the large size of the Gondolo pocket watches. Still, one wonders if ...
Time+Tide
The Chanel J12 is once more available with an 18K gold bezel and accents The gold details help the unisex watch lean into its feminine aspects It’s still a fully-specced dive watch with 200m of water resistance Since the reintroduction of the Chanel J12 in 2019, there’s been a lot of focus given to the … ContinuedThe post A touch of gold for the ceramic Chanel J12 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Watches and Wonders 2023 was Panerai's opportunity to breathe some new life into their somewhat neglected product line (in relative comparison to the Submersible and Luminor product offerings). Let's dive into what the legacy Italian brand has in store for the Radiomir collection.
Worn & Wound
Czapek is following up their new Dark Titanium Antarctique (which we introduced to you right here) with something a bit different in the form of the Révélation. This variant offers an openworked dial to enjoy the new purpose-built SXH7 movement within. Doing open dials is something of an artform, and Czapek has proven quite adept at maximizing the space given. To do so here, they had to alter the core of their SXH5 movement to such a degree that it became something else entirely in the process. The payoff was clearly worth it, offering a beautiful view into the unique design language of Czapek’s movement ethos. The Antarctique Révélation expands on the rapidly maturing collection, and sets a new tone in the process. This case and bracelet have proven they can easily adapt to a variety of dial configurations, from the very simple, managing the focal point; to the relatively wild, thus relinquishing it. This watch is clearly an example of the latter, with one of those dials that just keeps on giving, with small details and hidden away areas to discover. Perhaps the most interesting part of this watch is the commitment to the movement in an effort to get the openworked details right. It began, according to Czapek, with a request from a fan of the brand. CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel explains: “People were in love with the remarkable design of our SXH5 movement, and we therefore asked ourselves how we could somehow make it visible on the dial” and …”soon a far more...
Worn & Wound
One of the things we love about Zenith is the way they walk the line between unapologetically contemporary (think: the Defy Extreme range) and watches that pay sincere tribute to their past. The latter would encompass much of the Chronomaster collection, for example, which is rife with watches that amount to tasteful updates of much loved vintage pieces. There are times, though, when tributes to heritage and a modern aesthetic collide, and that’s what we have with the new Defy Revival Shadow, a watch that combines the iconic profile of the very first Defy with a blasted titanium treatment that gives it a completely new and modern appearance. If you’ve been keeping up with Zenith, you’re certainly aware that the Defy Revival has played a major role in their release strategy over the past year, starting with a faithful reissue of the original version last year and then moving on to red and teal. No matter the dial color, though, the dominant design trait of these watches is always the unusual case. There’s really nothing else quite like it. It’s completely compact at just 37mm and has an elaborate 14 sided bezel and 8 sided case that gives the entire package a complex geometry that must have felt quite avant garde when the design was introduced in the 1970s. For this release, Zenith has stripped the case of its signature finishing and given it the same bead blasted titanium treatment as the Chronomaster Revival Shadow. As a sibling to the earlier shadow, this wat...
SJX Watches
One of the strongest value propositions at Watches & Wonders is from an unsurprising contender, Tudor. Not entirely new but still compelling, the Black Bay GMT is a new version of the brand’s travel staple, now facelifted with a silver dial that brings to mind the mythical Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Initial thoughts Since its release in 2018, the Black Bay GMT has been a crowd pleaser, and the newest variant will be as well. Its tangible features like the in-house calibre are obvious, and less apparent is the subtle historical connection. While a silver dial on a sport watch isn’t novel, this is particularly notable for the unspoken reference to the historical Rolex GMT-Master with a white dial reputedly made for Pan American Airways. The fact that the GMT-Master “Pan Am” is so famous yet controversial in terms of provenance gives this Black Bay GMT an amusing and interesting historical angle. Apart from the dial, there is no difference between this and the version with a black dial that came before. The price remains unchanged, and it still offers great value for money. The only criticism that I have is the same as for the earlier version: the case is chunky at 41 mm in diameter; the case is thick as well. I’m certain a more compact Tudor GMT model will arrive one day, especially with the just-launched Black Bay 54 that is 37 mm. Opaline dial The dial on the new Black Bay GMT retains the same dial layout with “snowflake” hands, including its lozen...
Worn & Wound
Among the bevy of new Rolex watches released this year were a few unexpected watches, which isn’t a phrase we often mutter about the brand. We saw some unusually colorful dials (more on those later), and the launch of an entirely new formal collection called the Perpetual 1908, a reference to the brand’s name coinage by Wans Wilsdorf. With its introduction, the existing Cellini line has come to a close. The 1908 lives within the ‘classic’ range alongside the likes of the Oyster Perpetual and Sky-Dweller, but feels distinctly different from any existing line. Coming from a brand that’s been at the center of the sport watch craze over the past decade, the 1908 feels like a breath of fresh air. The Perpetual 1908 is a three hand time only watch offered only in 18k white or yellow gold. The trim case measures 39mm in diameter with a divided, partially fluted bezel framing the austere dial. Within resides the Rolex automatic caliber 7140, which gets a healthy amount of decoration worthy of being presented through an exhibition caseback. This is a new move from Rolex this year, appearing on both this watch, and the 60th anniversary platinum Daytona. The bridges of the 7140 receive a finish that the brand is calling “Rolex Côtes de Genève”, a re-interpretation of the classic technique seen often in Swiss movements. It differs from traditional Côtes de Genève in that it places a narrow polished groove between each of the parallel bands. Being a Rolex, there’s a...
Worn & Wound
It’s the year of the Pilot for Zenith. After shoring up their Chronomaster collection and injecting new life into the Defy over the last few years, Zenith has returned to the Pilot collection and given it a complete revamp. The Pilot is a historic line for Zenith, having trademarked the word “Pilote” all the way back in 1888 (and “Pilot” in 1904). In the early days of the company, the brand focused largely on the manufacture of flight instruments and watches for pilots. They of course weren’t the only brand to cut their manufacturing teeth on the burgeoning need for these types of devices, but were (and still are) the only brand to trademark the word “Pilot,” which allows them the opportunity to use it on the dial in a way other brand’s can’t. The new collection is a stab at bringing something very old in Zenith’s history and making it new in a very explicit way. In other words, these aren’t vintage inspired pilot’s watches, but something far more contemporary. There are two new watches making their debut this week, each in two different materials, for a total of four new Pilots flying their way into boutiques soon enough. The Pilot Automatic is a three hander running on the El Primero 3620, the same chrono-less EP movement found in the Defy Skyline collection. We get a date at 6:00, right below a horizontal line that is meant to recall indicators on a pilot’s instrument panel to refer them back to the horizon line. The Arabic numerals are large...
Deployant
UN goes back to the original Freak roots with the new Freak 1. Live report from the Ulysse Nardin Booth at Watches and Worders 2023.
SJX Watches
Due to its enviable position as the leading Swiss watch brand by revenue, Rolex tends to dominate headlines for even the smallest changes to its collections. So it’s even bigger news when the brand launches an entirely new collection, the Perpetual 1908, as it has on the opening day of this year’s Watches & Wonders. Named for the year that Hans Wilsdorf registered the Rolex trademark in Switzerland, the Perpetual 1908 is a slim, time-only watch with a display back that signals a renewed focus on the dress watch category for the giant of Geneva. Initial thoughts The Perpetual 1908 is a worthy replacement for the outgoing Cellini collection, which to me always felt like the forgotten child of the Rolex portfolio. Forced to use movements from their sportier siblings, the Cellini watches were never able to achieve the right proportions to be taken seriously as dress watches. The Perpetual 1908 debuts in four references in yellow and white gold, with the option of white or black satin finish dials; the black dials look especially good. The designs are atypical for Rolex, featuring a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock, and a new handset. “Superlative Chronometer” drapes over the sub-seconds dial, calling to mind the Rolex Veriflat of the 1950s. Speaking of the Veriflat, the 1908 case measures just 9.5 mm thick thanks to the new cal. 7140. This is a big improvement over the Cellini watches, which were over 12 mm thick. The 1908’s dress watch credentials are bolstered fur...
Time+Tide
The Patek Philippe 5224R is slated to be the ultimate travel Calatrava It pairs a slim micro-rotor calibre with a travel time complication and 24-hour display All the movement functions are operated via the crown via a patented system The travel time has become somewhat of a Patek Philippe signature over the years, with the … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Patek Philippe 5178G-012 impresses through its flinqué blue Grand Feu enamel dial. The 40mm case is made from illustrious 18k white gold. The calibre R 27 PS features a 22k gold micro-rotor and a minute repeater complication. Being perhaps the most famous high-horology watchmaker of the current age, it’s never going to be totally … ContinuedThe post The Patek Philippe 5178G-012 is a minute repeater with a stunning flinqué enamel dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition features a date window in which Miss Piggy’s ex makes a monthly appearance The watch itself is based on the 39mm titanium ProPilot X Calibre 400 Oris wanted to ensure the collaboration didn’t overpower the overall watch design Growing up, I learned a British superstition that you’re meant to … ContinuedThe post The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition is a monthly celebration of Fozzie Bear’s best pal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Frédéric Arnault, CEO of TAG Heuer, and Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution, discuss TAG Heuer’s new Plasma timepieces. The star timepiece is the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon, which is 44mm in case size and has 124 lab-grown diamonds. Alongside a few other Carrera timepieces launched at Watches and Wonders 2023 such […]
Revolution
Frédéric Arnault, CEO of TAG Heuer, showed Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution, the new 60th anniversary Carrera. Mr Arnault explains that the “Glassbox” Carrera sports many vintage details that pay tribute to the original Carrera, and he also hints at what might be up next for TAG Heuer.
Time+Tide
There was always much to admire about the 2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds. The Reverso’s standard Art-Deco charm was all present and correct with that winning mix of classicism and sharp formality. There were the fun colours (blue! burgundy! green!) that loosened the proposition up a touch and gave it a contemporary edge. There … ContinuedThe post The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds benefits from a tiny upgrade with an oversized impact appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Tudor have overhauled their fixed-bezel Black Bay watches in steel. The new collection features modern in-house movements and the T-fit clasp. All watches are available in blue, anthracite, or champagne, with or without diamond markers. Following last year’s Watches & Wonders blast of two-tone releases, it’s now time that the Tudor Black Bay fixed-bezel models … ContinuedThe post New dials, movements and clasps for the Tudor Black Bay 31/36/39/41 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Tudor Black Bay GMT is now available with an opaline white dial. Paired with the Snowflake hand set, it makes for a refreshing look. The blue and burgundy bezel looks more vibrant in contrast. Although last year’s Watches & Wonders held thunderous announcements for Tudor’s GMT fans thanks to the Black Bay Pro and … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Black Bay GMT with a wintery white dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Tudor Royal models are paired with chocolate brown and salmon dials. There are four case sizes spanning from 28mm to 41mm. Each watch is available with or without diamond hour markers. Any time a design risk is taken, people could turn one way or another. The Tudor Royal is undoubtedly their most visually … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Royal collection offers refined variation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor of Revolution, discusses the evolution of the Calatrava leading up to this year’s 6007G Calatrava, which has returned not in steel, but this time in white gold. The 2023 6007G is available in yellow (ref. 6007G-001), red (6007G-010) and blue (6007G-011). Its 40mm white gold case houses the Patek Philippe […]
Time+Tide
The Rolex Sky-Dweller sees three new releases for Watches & Wonders 2023. A brand new blue-green dial colour is a first for any Rolex model. The movement gets an update, too, with the introduction of the calibre 9002. Rolex’s most complicated timepiece, the Sky-Dweller, has dropped three new versions for 2023’s Watches & Wonders, featuring … ContinuedThe post Rolex takes off with 3 new Sky-Dweller models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The definitive answer to the question we receive more than any other: "So, what watch should I buy?"
Revolution
Revolution Founder Wei Koh and Revolution Editor-at-large Eleonor Picciotto got to see a truly special chronograph. They had the privilege of experiencing the 100-piece limited edition Odysseus Chronograph. They discussed this new novelty with Wilhelm Schmid, who is the CEO of A. Lange & Söhne, one of the most desirable brands in luxury. The 42.5mm […]
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